Showing all 91 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Barnett Park The Cave | |||||
25 | Super Choss
Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right past 3 bolts, then head straight up via big moves to reach the jug rail. Follow this right to the Super Glue anchors. | ||||
25 | ★ Straight, No Chaser
Start as for Attack Mode but instead of angling left to the pockets after the initial boulder problem, angle right to the Iceman anchor, skirting to the left side of the roof. May also be started from the right to avoid Attack Mode’s often wet start. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998 | 13m, 6 | |||
25 | Rowdy Chaser
Start as for Rowdy Ronnie Piper, but at the ledge head left, skirting around the left side of the roof, to finish at the Iceman anchor. | ||||
Barnett Park Leech Wall | |||||
25 | ★ Gorgon
FA: Tony Burnell, Nov 2014 | ||||
25 | ★ Staunch Like Elvis
FA: John McCallum, 1993 | 5 | |||
25 | Conundrum
FA: Tony Burnell, Dec 2014 | 20m | |||
25 | ★ PHD
FA: Tony Burnell, Dec 2014 | 20m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★ Bulge-let
FA: Tony Bunell, 1997 | 20m, 7 | |||
25 | ★ Roger Parker
FA: Sefton Priestly, 1999 | 4 | |||
Barnett Park The Other Cave | |||||
25 | Troy's Route
FA: Troy Mattingley | ||||
Closed Bivvy Rock | |||||
25 | ★ Compression Test
FA: Tony Burnell, 14 Dec 2018 | 20m, 7 | |||
25/26 | ★ 4X
Start as for ‘XX’, after staple 3 step L into a short black groove, go up the groove & across the slab to the roof below the central groove, hard moves into & out of the groove to land on a ledge with an old lower off. FA: Tony Burnell, 10 Apr 2022 | 18m, 6 | |||
25 | ★ Pressure Gauge
Start immediately right of Ground Zero, with a staple for the first bolt. Follow a line of FHs up a series of ledges to reach a hanging scoop. Surmount the morpho crux and continue easily to the Ground Zero anchor. FA: David Jefferson, 15 Jul 2023 | 22m, 7 | |||
The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows | |||||
25 | ★★ Rodeo Corner
FA: Pat Deavoll, 1998 | 15m, 6 | |||
Bridle Path Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★ Ammonia | 8m | |||
V5 | ★★ Ammonium | 8m | |||
V5 | ★★ Second Mouse Gets The Cheese
Left sit-start into top of Early Bird. FA: Erin Stewart, 18 Jun 2022 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Opération Satanique
SS on the slopey lip with a good crimp rail for the right hand. Follow the runnel to the arete on slopers and small crimps. FA: Thibaut, 7 Apr | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Bears, Beets, Battlestar Galactica
Sit start with left hand on crimp (L-shaped hold) and right hand on the side pull in the small break/crack. Crimp hard and find the balance to reach up to one of the half-decent holds up high. FA: Thibaut, 1 Apr 2023 | 2m | |||
V5 | Shrimps is Bugs
Small prow below Space Invaders. Start low on the wide pinch/crimp and rad undercling, one move to the top. FA: 18 Jul 2023 | 1m | |||
V5 | ★★ No Sleep till Auckland
SS with left hand on the small slopper and right hand on the undercling. Use the good right foot and small edge for left foot, stand up and throw left hand up to the decent slopper. Easier finish moves to top out. FA: Thibaut, 10 Jun 2023 | 2m | |||
Britten Crag The Roofs | |||||
25 | ★ Spirit Of Free Enterprise
Destroyed during the earthquakes. FA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | ||||
Britten Crag The Shelf | |||||
25 | ★★ The Big C
Hard climbing through the big roof to the third bolt over the lip. Shares the last bolt of Off The Shelf and the same anchor. FA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | 16m, 6 | |||
Britten Crag Tiger Wall | |||||
25 | ★ The Beer Hunter
Start as for Speight’s Race, clipping its first bolt. Upon reaching the roof, lean out left and clip, then surmount the prow, trending left to the next bolt. Easier but balancey climbing past 2 more bolts leads to the anchor. FA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | ★ Southern Exposure
Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above and to the left. FA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | 12m, 5 | |||
Britten Crag The Alcove | |||||
25 | It Is Pointless To Resist Direct Start
A direct start with two extra bolts, plus one from Nor West Arch. FA: Andrew Buist, 2001 | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | ★ Real Slim Shady
Starts directly in front of the large boulder. Straightforward moves on good holds past the first bolt, followed by long reaches on small crimps and/or a dyno through the overhang. Continue over the lip where the third bolt intersects with Nor West Arch. Finish up the arête above. Six bolts, with an optional small cam placement between fourth and fifth. FA: Andrew Buist, 2000 | 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Panda Monium
Above an overgrown block is this route up a steeply overhanging wall. Simon Middlemass set it up, but Jeff did it not realising it was a first ascent. Set: Simon Middlemass, 1993 FA: Jeff Shrimpton, 1993 | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Peak Plonkers
Close to YG but good independent climbing. Carefully pull over the roof above the track on funky holds. Clip the 2nd bolt of YG then crimp up the groove on its right. Then there are three more bolts and larger holds FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2001 | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ The Butcher of Wall Street
Climb the Butcher to the 4th bolt then link into Wall Street for its bulge crux. | 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Mt Pleasant Butcher
The last route through the roof. A short capped corner gives access to the roof. Go straight over the top bulge, clipping if you have strength to burn. Once at the headwall bolt traverse off directly right to the last move and anchors of Weet-bix Kids FA: Tony Burnell, 1999 | 14m, 6 | |||
25 | ★ Thorn Bird
Start 1½ metres right in a short corner. Hard moves onto a ledge, then shuffle left and clip the second bolt. Straight up the wall with a series of dynamic moves to finish on a ledge above and right of the Liposuction anchors at a single lowering bolt at the back of the ledge. FA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | 12m, 4 | |||
Britten Crag The Caves | |||||
25 | ★★ Lateral Thinking
FA: John Iseli, 2002 | 5 | |||
25 | ★ Pump Action
FA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
Britten Crag Cabbage Tree Wall | |||||
25 | ★ Dynamic Implications
FA: Andrew Buist, 2002 | 4 | |||
25 | Popeye
FA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | 10m, 3 | |||
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Blackboard | |||||
25 | One Inch Rock
FA: John Allen, 1979 | 5m | |||
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock Barbican Wall | |||||
25 | ★ Poetry In Motion
FA: Brian Fish, 1981 | 13m, 1 | |||
25 | ★★★ Jeni's Gang Direct Finish
FA: Dave Fearnley, 1982 | 13m, 2 | |||
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Keep | |||||
25 | ★★★ Birth Canal
Start as for Keepless at DBB on the Party Ledge. Climb slab up to pedestal then with difficulty up shallow groove up to big ledge before the top. Clip bolt then move out right onto face to top out with a couple of big moves. FA: David Radzyner, 2018 | 20m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Rebirth
Start up Reincarnation. After the big move, go left and then finish up Birth Canal. FA: David Radzyner, 2019 | 20m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★★ Reincarnation
Technical stemming up the main corner with a big move and then some spicy moves on crimps at the top. At the last bolt, either continue straight up or mantle onto the ledge to the right. Both recommended. FA: Greg Jack, 2018 | 20m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★ Hang on Man
Can be started at either the Party Ledge on the left side or the Half Height Ledge on the right side. Climb the arête deviating to use the pedestal ledge on Hung Drawn and Quartered then moving back on to the arête, climbing mostly on the left side, to a crux at the top before reaching the ledge at the top of Reincarnation. Fantastic exposure. FA: Greg Jack, 2018 | 20m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Hung Drawn and Quartered
Start at DBB on Half Height Ledge on the right side of The Keep. Climb the slab to the left up onto the pedestal. Step left onto the arête and clip the next bolt then move right into the groove, then follow 2 bolts to beneath the big roof. Finish by climbing up onto the ledge to the right of big roof and then to DBB on the top. Watch for sharp edge on ledge when lowering. It has claimed one rope already. Some work has now been done to dull the edge. FA: David Radzyner, 2018 | 20m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ Arrested Development
Start as for Falling Buttress at DBB. Climb slab to the left then traverse right out above roof. Climb line of bolts up the groove in the middle of the face, finishing with a mantle onto a ledge right of the big roof. FA: Greg Jack, 2018 | 20m, 6 | |||
25 | Ex Cathedra Direct
FA: John Allen, 1980 | ||||
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Battlements | |||||
25 | ★ Roof Of The World
FA: Charlie Creese, 1981 | 12m, 1 | |||
Cattlestop Crag Surgical Strike Wall | |||||
25 | ★ La Vita E Bella
Start under the first bolt, pull up onto the face, then climb up underneath the small roof. Pull over the roof and climb straight up to the anchor. FA: Andrew Buist, 2001 | 13m, 4 | |||
Farm Park Flax Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Silk Road
The obvious, left facing corner near the left end of Flax Wall, featuring some of the best rock at Farm Park. Technical stemming leads up and over the roof to bigger holds, just as the pump clock starts to run out. FA: Tony Burnell, 28 Dec 2016 | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | Procrastination
FA: Tony Burnell | 5 | |||
Farm Park The Head Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Between a Block and A Hard Place
FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2017 | 5 | |||
Halfcar | |||||
V5 | Left End V5
Sit start underneath the roof on jugs. Work your way up and finish as for ‘Sleeker than a Celica’ | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Drop the Knee
Start as for 'Drop the Clutch' in the big holes and traverse the sloper ledge but at halfway take the easy way out up to a rectangular jug. From here traverse leftwards on crimps on the lip before finishing up ‘Roland’s Warm-Up’ | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Drop The Clutch
Sit start in the holes. Traverse rightwards underneath the roof on the sloping ledge. Dyno from the jugs and hold the swing or perform some magic to arrive at the huge finishing jug. Drop off here. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Always Crashing in the Same Car
It's what you came for. Sit start in the depths of the cave on two good holds. Ride the ledge all the way along until you can head up the arete. FA: Scott Jury, 2019 | 8m | |||
V5 | ★ Right Side V5
Sit start with your toes at the back of the cave. Perform knee-bar wizardry to surmount the lip and crimp to glory. | 4m | |||
Horotane Valley Bouldering The Fence Side Boulder | |||||
V5 | Mistakes of Cowardice
SS on the good right hand side pull and the bad slopper on the left face, tiptoeing on small feet. Big left-hand move to a slopper on the arete then mantle finish. FA: Thibaut, 28 Jan | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Mistakes Left Exit
Start as per 'Mistakes of Cowardice' but exit left onto the slab after the crux move to the arete. FA: Thibaut, 11 Feb | 3m | |||
Horotane Valley Bouldering The Meteorite Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Rings of Smoke Through the Trees
Start as for 'Yellow Desert Stream' then traverse left all the way to the end on the obvious line of bad slopers, eliminating the lip the entire way. FA: Thibaut, 29 Sep 2023 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Dame Más Gasolina
SS left hand side pull and right hand on the slopey arete. Good edge for left foot and right heel around the corner. Throw left or right hand up to reach the starting slopey crimp of 'Gasolina'. FA: Thibaut, 10 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Bandidos Sit
SS on the squared hold and break on the arete then throw right hand up to join ‘Bandidos Low’. FA: Thibaut, 29 Sep 2023 | 4m | |||
Jane Fonda Workout Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Rigor Mortice
FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2016 | 25m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★★ Melting Point
Very beautiful route, powerful climbing with almost every kind of move and hold imaginable. Sustained except for the sit-down ledge at halfway. FA: Bill McLeod, 1989 | 30m, 12 | |||
Lyttelton Rock Left Side | |||||
25 | ★★ Social Ostracyte Direct
FA: Roger Parkyn & Pete Smale, 1984 | 14m, 2 | |||
Lyttelton Rock Rage Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Pulling on Pinches
Bouldery moves through the overhang to the right of Carbon Neutral. Above the roof, carry on up the arête. FA: Tony Burrell, 2013 | 20m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★★ Rage Sur La Plage
Fierce crimping up the face of the overhanging pillar shaped wall. Small incuts past the first bolt to a rest out left and a trad placement, then up three more bolts on the headwall. FA: Dave Fearnley, 1987 | 20m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Ground Effect
FA: Tony Burnell, 1998 | 20m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Effectively Ravished
Climb Ground Effect to the second bolt, then join Victim of Ravishment to finish. Possibly the hardest line on the wall, though probably not harder than Raj or Ground Effect by a full grade. | ||||
Lyttelton Rock Year Right Wall | |||||
24/25 | ★★ Arm & Hammer
Start between Minimal Disturbance and Funication, in the middle of the main part of the Year Right Wall. Climb the surprisingly technical slab, then surmount the roof following the v-groove. Execute a mantle and then ramble to the top, linking into the last two bolts of Funication. FA: David Jefferson, 21 Feb | 18m, 6 | |||
Lyttelton Rock The Thunderdome | |||||
25 | ★★ Layer Cake
At the left hand end of The Thunderdome, goes directly up through the groove in the roof to the left of Gone Bimbo. FA: Tony Burnell | 12m, 6 | |||
25/26 | ★ Gone Bimbo Direct Finish
Climb the standard version of Gone Bimbo, but at the first permadraw on the traverse, instead of continuing right go straight through the roof on good holds to finish at a separate anchor. Using the original (low) beta to get established on the traverse gets you 26 points, whilst the new (high) beta only warrants 25. FA: Peter Carter, 1990 | 12m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Powerless Jockey
Climb the first 3 bolts of Powerless Creatures, then head right, clipping the first bolt of Scud Muscles, to link into Jug Jockey at its crux. Combines the best parts of both routes. | 8 | |||
Lyttelton Rock Ataturk Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Stemming Over Stu
Climb past the first 3 bolts of the Stu Allen Route / Location…, then traverse right at the ledge to join Bridging Over Lyttelton. | 20m, 7 | |||
Mount Pleasant Middle Cliff | |||||
25 | ★ Lemming Boys Revenge
FA: Ben Gilder, 2000 | ||||
Mount Pleasant Right Cliff | |||||
25 | ★ International Jetsetter
FA: Charlie Creese, 1982 | 14m, 1 | |||
25 | ★★ Barking Up The Wrong Tree
FA: Charlie Creese, 1982 | 11m, 1 | |||
24/25 | ★ Slip Knot
FA: Tony Burnell, May 2022 | 8m, 2 | |||
Closed Tamatea South Face | |||||
25 | ★ A Thousand Knives
Power moves through a steep overhang, then mantle into bulge. FA: Cirrus Tan, Dec 2015 | 10m, 4 | |||
Three Sisters The Twisted Sister | |||||
25 | Hard Rain
FA: Tony Burnell, 1999 | 6 | |||
25 | Groove Direct
FA: Tony Burnell, 2002 | 4 | |||
25 | ★ Soft Centre
FA: Tony Burnell, 1998 | 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Onga Onga Left
FA: Tony Burnell, 1999 | 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Bullworker
FA: Tony Burnell, 1999 | 17m, 6 | |||
Three Sisters The Middle Sister | |||||
25 | ★ Anti-Tantie
FA: Iain Lawson | 10m, 3 | |||
Three Sisters The Ugly Sister | |||||
25 | ★ The Bat
FA: Tony Burnell | 7 | |||
25 | Slap Stick
FA: Tony Burnell | 6 | |||
25 | Comedy
FA: Tony Burnell | 6 | |||
Transmitter Crag Closed Main Cliff | |||||
25 | Dance-O-Mat
FFA: Troy Mattingley, 2013 | 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ Godzilla
FFA: Tony Burnell, 2000 | 5 | |||
Waterfall Crag | |||||
V5 | ★ Six Different Ways to Please Your Lover
Start low on the good hold used for Cramp (higher than Cramp's undercling start). Make a big move left to join Sloper Groper, then continue left until you can join Mr Miyagi and finish as for this problem. | ||||
V5 | Purity |
Showing all 91 routes.