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Routes in Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills for selected grade

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Showing all 91 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Barnett Park The Cave
25 Super Choss

Start as for Super Glue at the extreme left side of the cave. Traverse right past 3 bolts, then head straight up via big moves to reach the jug rail. Follow this right to the Super Glue anchors.

Sport
25 Straight, No Chaser

Start as for Attack Mode but instead of angling left to the pockets after the initial boulder problem, angle right to the Iceman anchor, skirting to the left side of the roof. May also be started from the right to avoid Attack Mode’s often wet start.

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1998

Sport 13m, 6
25 Rowdy Chaser

Start as for Rowdy Ronnie Piper, but at the ledge head left, skirting around the left side of the roof, to finish at the Iceman anchor.

Sport
Barnett Park Leech Wall
25 Gorgon

FA: Tony Burnell, Nov 2014

Sport
25 Staunch Like Elvis

FA: John McCallum, 1993

Sport 5
25 Conundrum

FA: Tony Burnell, Dec 2014

Sport 20m
25 PHD

FA: Tony Burnell, Dec 2014

Sport 20m, 8
25 Bulge-let

FA: Tony Bunell, 1997

Sport 20m, 7
25 Roger Parker

FA: Sefton Priestly, 1999

Sport 4
Barnett Park The Other Cave
25 Troy's Route

FA: Troy Mattingley

Sport
Closed Bivvy Rock
25 Compression Test

FA: Tony Burnell, 14 Dec 2018

Sport 20m, 7
25/26 4X

Start as for ‘XX’, after staple 3 step L into a short black groove, go up the groove & across the slab to the roof below the central groove, hard moves into & out of the groove to land on a ledge with an old lower off.

FA: Tony Burnell, 10 Apr 2022

Sport 18m, 6
25 Pressure Gauge

Start immediately right of Ground Zero, with a staple for the first bolt. Follow a line of FHs up a series of ledges to reach a hanging scoop. Surmount the morpho crux and continue easily to the Ground Zero anchor.

FA: David Jefferson, 15 Jul 2023

Sport 22m, 7
The Black Wall and Valley of Swallows
25 Rodeo Corner

FA: Pat Deavoll, 1998

Sport 15m, 6
Bridle Path Boulders
V5 Ammonia Boulder 8m
V5 Ammonium Boulder 8m
V5 Second Mouse Gets The Cheese

Left sit-start into top of Early Bird.

FA: Erin Stewart, 18 Jun 2022

Boulder 2m
V5 Opération Satanique

SS on the slopey lip with a good crimp rail for the right hand. Follow the runnel to the arete on slopers and small crimps.

FA: Thibaut, 7 Apr

Boulder 3m
V5 Bears, Beets, Battlestar Galactica

Sit start with left hand on crimp (L-shaped hold) and right hand on the side pull in the small break/crack. Crimp hard and find the balance to reach up to one of the half-decent holds up high.

FA: Thibaut, 1 Apr 2023

Boulder 2m
V5 Shrimps is Bugs

Small prow below Space Invaders. Start low on the wide pinch/crimp and rad undercling, one move to the top.

FA: 18 Jul 2023

Boulder 1m
V5 No Sleep till Auckland

SS with left hand on the small slopper and right hand on the undercling. Use the good right foot and small edge for left foot, stand up and throw left hand up to the decent slopper. Easier finish moves to top out.

FA: Thibaut, 10 Jun 2023

Boulder 2m
Britten Crag The Roofs
25 Spirit Of Free Enterprise

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Sport
Britten Crag The Shelf
25 The Big C

Hard climbing through the big roof to the third bolt over the lip. Shares the last bolt of Off The Shelf and the same anchor.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Sport 16m, 6
Britten Crag Tiger Wall
25 The Beer Hunter

Start as for Speight’s Race, clipping its first bolt. Upon reaching the roof, lean out left and clip, then surmount the prow, trending left to the next bolt. Easier but balancey climbing past 2 more bolts leads to the anchor.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Sport 15m, 5
25 Southern Exposure

Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above and to the left.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Sport 12m, 5
Britten Crag The Alcove
25 It Is Pointless To Resist Direct Start

A direct start with two extra bolts, plus one from Nor West Arch.

FA: Andrew Buist, 2001

Sport 15m, 6
25 Real Slim Shady

Starts directly in front of the large boulder. Straightforward moves on good holds past the first bolt, followed by long reaches on small crimps and/or a dyno through the overhang. Continue over the lip where the third bolt intersects with Nor West Arch. Finish up the arête above. Six bolts, with an optional small cam placement between fourth and fifth.

FA: Andrew Buist, 2000

Sport 6
25 Panda Monium

Above an overgrown block is this route up a steeply overhanging wall. Simon Middlemass set it up, but Jeff did it not realising it was a first ascent.

Set: Simon Middlemass, 1993

FA: Jeff Shrimpton, 1993

Sport 15m, 5
25 Peak Plonkers

Close to YG but good independent climbing. Carefully pull over the roof above the track on funky holds. Clip the 2nd bolt of YG then crimp up the groove on its right. Then there are three more bolts and larger holds

FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 2001

Sport 15m, 5
25 The Butcher of Wall Street

Climb the Butcher to the 4th bolt then link into Wall Street for its bulge crux.

Sport 6
25 Mt Pleasant Butcher

The last route through the roof. A short capped corner gives access to the roof. Go straight over the top bulge, clipping if you have strength to burn. Once at the headwall bolt traverse off directly right to the last move and anchors of Weet-bix Kids

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

Sport 14m, 6
25 Thorn Bird

Start 1½ metres right in a short corner. Hard moves onto a ledge, then shuffle left and clip the second bolt. Straight up the wall with a series of dynamic moves to finish on a ledge above and right of the Liposuction anchors at a single lowering bolt at the back of the ledge.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Sport 12m, 4
Britten Crag The Caves
25 Lateral Thinking

FA: John Iseli, 2002

Sport 5
25 Pump Action

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Sport 15m, 4
Britten Crag Cabbage Tree Wall
25 Dynamic Implications

FA: Andrew Buist, 2002

Sport 4
25 Popeye

FA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Sport 10m, 3
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Blackboard
25 One Inch Rock

FA: John Allen, 1979

Trad 5m
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock Barbican Wall
25 Poetry In Motion

FA: Brian Fish, 1981

Mixed trad 13m, 1
25 Jeni's Gang Direct Finish

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1982

Mixed trad 13m, 2
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Keep
25 Birth Canal

Start as for Keepless at DBB on the Party Ledge. Climb slab up to pedestal then with difficulty up shallow groove up to big ledge before the top. Clip bolt then move out right onto face to top out with a couple of big moves.

FA: David Radzyner, 2018

Sport 20m, 7
25 Rebirth

Start up Reincarnation. After the big move, go left and then finish up Birth Canal.

FA: David Radzyner, 2019

Sport 20m, 7
25 Reincarnation

Technical stemming up the main corner with a big move and then some spicy moves on crimps at the top. At the last bolt, either continue straight up or mantle onto the ledge to the right. Both recommended.

FA: Greg Jack, 2018

Sport 20m, 8
25 Hang on Man

Can be started at either the Party Ledge on the left side or the Half Height Ledge on the right side. Climb the arête deviating to use the pedestal ledge on Hung Drawn and Quartered then moving back on to the arête, climbing mostly on the left side, to a crux at the top before reaching the ledge at the top of Reincarnation. Fantastic exposure.

FA: Greg Jack, 2018

Sport 20m, 6
25 Hung Drawn and Quartered

Start at DBB on Half Height Ledge on the right side of The Keep. Climb the slab to the left up onto the pedestal. Step left onto the arête and clip the next bolt then move right into the groove, then follow 2 bolts to beneath the big roof. Finish by climbing up onto the ledge to the right of big roof and then to DBB on the top. Watch for sharp edge on ledge when lowering. It has claimed one rope already. Some work has now been done to dull the edge.

FA: David Radzyner, 2018

Sport 20m, 6
25 Arrested Development

Start as for Falling Buttress at DBB. Climb slab to the left then traverse right out above roof. Climb line of bolts up the groove in the middle of the face, finishing with a mantle onto a ledge right of the big roof.

FA: Greg Jack, 2018

Sport 20m, 6
25 Ex Cathedra Direct

FA: John Allen, 1980

Trad
Te Tihi-o-Kahukara / Castle Rock The Battlements
25 Roof Of The World

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

Mixed trad 12m, 1
Cattlestop Crag Surgical Strike Wall
25 La Vita E Bella

Start under the first bolt, pull up onto the face, then climb up underneath the small roof. Pull over the roof and climb straight up to the anchor.

FA: Andrew Buist, 2001

Sport 13m, 4
Farm Park Flax Wall
25 Silk Road

The obvious, left facing corner near the left end of Flax Wall, featuring some of the best rock at Farm Park. Technical stemming leads up and over the roof to bigger holds, just as the pump clock starts to run out.

FA: Tony Burnell, 28 Dec 2016

Sport 15m, 5
25 Procrastination Sport 5
Farm Park The Head Wall
25 Between a Block and A Hard Place

FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2017

Sport 5
Halfcar
V5 Left End V5

Sit start underneath the roof on jugs. Work your way up and finish as for ‘Sleeker than a Celica’

Boulder 4m
V5 Drop the Knee

Start as for 'Drop the Clutch' in the big holes and traverse the sloper ledge but at halfway take the easy way out up to a rectangular jug. From here traverse leftwards on crimps on the lip before finishing up ‘Roland’s Warm-Up’

Boulder 5m
V5 Drop The Clutch

Sit start in the holes. Traverse rightwards underneath the roof on the sloping ledge. Dyno from the jugs and hold the swing or perform some magic to arrive at the huge finishing jug. Drop off here.

Boulder 4m
V5 Always Crashing in the Same Car

It's what you came for. Sit start in the depths of the cave on two good holds. Ride the ledge all the way along until you can head up the arete.

FA: Scott Jury, 2019

Boulder 8m
V5 Right Side V5

Sit start with your toes at the back of the cave. Perform knee-bar wizardry to surmount the lip and crimp to glory.

Boulder 4m
Horotane Valley Bouldering The Fence Side Boulder
V5 Mistakes of Cowardice

SS on the good right hand side pull and the bad slopper on the left face, tiptoeing on small feet. Big left-hand move to a slopper on the arete then mantle finish.

FA: Thibaut, 28 Jan

Boulder 3m
V5 Mistakes Left Exit

Start as per 'Mistakes of Cowardice' but exit left onto the slab after the crux move to the arete.

FA: Thibaut, 11 Feb

Boulder 3m
Horotane Valley Bouldering The Meteorite Boulder
V5 Rings of Smoke Through the Trees

Start as for 'Yellow Desert Stream' then traverse left all the way to the end on the obvious line of bad slopers, eliminating the lip the entire way.

FA: Thibaut, 29 Sep 2023

Boulder 4m
V5 Dame Más Gasolina

SS left hand side pull and right hand on the slopey arete. Good edge for left foot and right heel around the corner. Throw left or right hand up to reach the starting slopey crimp of 'Gasolina'.

FA: Thibaut, 10 Sep 2023

Boulder 3m
V5 Bandidos Sit

SS on the squared hold and break on the arete then throw right hand up to join ‘Bandidos Low’.

FA: Thibaut, 29 Sep 2023

Boulder 4m
Jane Fonda Workout Wall
25 Rigor Mortice

FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2016

Sport 25m, 9
25 Melting Point

Very beautiful route, powerful climbing with almost every kind of move and hold imaginable. Sustained except for the sit-down ledge at halfway.

FA: Bill McLeod, 1989

Sport 30m, 12
Lyttelton Rock Left Side
25 Social Ostracyte Direct

FA: Roger Parkyn & Pete Smale, 1984

Mixed trad 14m, 2
Lyttelton Rock Rage Wall
25 Pulling on Pinches

Bouldery moves through the overhang to the right of Carbon Neutral. Above the roof, carry on up the arête.

FA: Tony Burrell, 2013

Sport 20m, 8
25 Rage Sur La Plage

Fierce crimping up the face of the overhanging pillar shaped wall. Small incuts past the first bolt to a rest out left and a trad placement, then up three more bolts on the headwall.

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1987

Mixed trad 20m, 4
25 Ground Effect

FA: Tony Burnell, 1998

Sport 20m, 6
25 Effectively Ravished

Climb Ground Effect to the second bolt, then join Victim of Ravishment to finish. Possibly the hardest line on the wall, though probably not harder than Raj or Ground Effect by a full grade.

Sport
Lyttelton Rock Year Right Wall
24/25 Arm & Hammer

Start between Minimal Disturbance and Funication, in the middle of the main part of the Year Right Wall. Climb the surprisingly technical slab, then surmount the roof following the v-groove. Execute a mantle and then ramble to the top, linking into the last two bolts of Funication.

FA: David Jefferson, 21 Feb

Sport 18m, 6
Lyttelton Rock The Thunderdome
25 Layer Cake

At the left hand end of The Thunderdome, goes directly up through the groove in the roof to the left of Gone Bimbo.

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 12m, 6
25/26 Gone Bimbo Direct Finish

Climb the standard version of Gone Bimbo, but at the first permadraw on the traverse, instead of continuing right go straight through the roof on good holds to finish at a separate anchor. Using the original (low) beta to get established on the traverse gets you 26 points, whilst the new (high) beta only warrants 25.

FA: Peter Carter, 1990

Sport 12m, 5
25 Powerless Jockey

Climb the first 3 bolts of Powerless Creatures, then head right, clipping the first bolt of Scud Muscles, to link into Jug Jockey at its crux. Combines the best parts of both routes.

Sport 8
Lyttelton Rock Ataturk Wall
25 Stemming Over Stu

Climb past the first 3 bolts of the Stu Allen Route / Location…, then traverse right at the ledge to join Bridging Over Lyttelton.

Sport 20m, 7
Mount Pleasant Middle Cliff
25 Lemming Boys Revenge

FA: Ben Gilder, 2000

Trad
Mount Pleasant Right Cliff
25 International Jetsetter

FA: Charlie Creese, 1982

Mixed trad 14m, 1
25 Barking Up The Wrong Tree

FA: Charlie Creese, 1982

Mixed trad 11m, 1
24/25 Slip Knot

FA: Tony Burnell, May 2022

Sport 8m, 2
Closed Tamatea South Face
25 A Thousand Knives

Power moves through a steep overhang, then mantle into bulge.

FA: Cirrus Tan, Dec 2015

Sport 10m, 4
Three Sisters The Twisted Sister
25 Hard Rain

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

Sport 6
25 Groove Direct

FA: Tony Burnell, 2002

Sport 4
25 Soft Centre

FA: Tony Burnell, 1998

Sport 5
25 Onga Onga Left

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

Sport 6
25 Bullworker

FA: Tony Burnell, 1999

Sport 17m, 6
Three Sisters The Middle Sister
25 Anti-Tantie

FA: Iain Lawson

Sport 10m, 3
Three Sisters The Ugly Sister
25 The Bat

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 7
25 Slap Stick

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 6
25 Comedy

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 6
Transmitter Crag Closed Main Cliff
25 Dance-O-Mat

FFA: Troy Mattingley, 2013

Sport 3
25 Godzilla

FFA: Tony Burnell, 2000

Sport 5
Waterfall Crag
V5 Six Different Ways to Please Your Lover

Start low on the good hold used for Cramp (higher than Cramp's undercling start). Make a big move left to join Sloper Groper, then continue left until you can join Mr Miyagi and finish as for this problem.

Boulder
V5 Purity Boulder

Showing all 91 routes.

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