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South Face Rock climbing 20 routes in cliff

20
AU
5710131517

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Accessed either via Wye Saddle or the long way via Queens Drive.

Approach

2h

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
M5 $100 Whore Ice 9

FA: aniel Joll, Rupert Gardiner & Kevin Barrett, 2011

2
M5 $50 F#ck Ice 350m, 3

FA: Steve Skelten & Vaughan Snowden, 2013

3
M5 Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro Ice 350m, 8

FA: Alex Corpas, Ben Dare & Daniel Joll, 2012

4
WI3 Only for Muppets Ice 20m

FA: Dave Bolger & Rupert Gardiner, 2006

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5
17 SE Rib of Single Cone Trad 7

Obvious rib between South and South West face. Steep for four of the seven.

FA: Ben Dare, Danny Murphy & Anna Ruotsi, 2011

6
UIAA:2 M2 ★ Cookies & Cream Alpine 300m

The left most snow gully.

FA: Guy Cotter & Suze Kelly

7
WI3 ★★★ Touch Down Ice 60m

Pretty great pitch of ice! Lot's of beginners do it as a top rope, and it can be busy.

Has a DBA at the top, so you can rap down with 2 60m ropes.

FA: Katrina Benecke & Ansja de Boer, 1996

8
WI3 ★ Touch Down Slabs Ice 50m

The ramps just to the right of Touch Down. Shares an anchor with Touch Down

9
WI3 ★★★ South Face Classic Ice 300m, 5

From the top of Touch Down follow the obvious snow ramp to the left until you get to big snow ledge. Wander right and then straight up to the top. Apparently most of the route was soloed on the first ascent.

WI3 is only really for the Touch Down slabs. The rest of the climb is mostly steep snow, maybe an Alpine 2.

A great day out with some cool exposure looking down at Wye Creek.

FA: Steve Carr & Derek Chinn, 2001

10
15 Rock Vandals TradProject 3

Accessed using rappel stations on the face.

11
18 Littlewood Route Trad 5

Climbers left of rappel line.

FA: Steve Barratt & Jade Littlewood, 2011

12
18 Barrett’s Route Trad 4

FA: 2012

13
17 Got No Shoes Trad 5

Climbers right of the rappel line.

FA: Daniel Joll & Danny Murphy, 2011

14
18 Finnigan Dare Trad 7

FA: Ben Dare & Andrew Finnigan, 2011

15
15 Big Chimney TradProject 4

Ascend right-leaning chimney. DBA at the top.

16
18 Uncle Al's Retro Rock / l TradProject 4

FA: Daneil Joll & Paul Angus, 2011

17
17 Uncle Al’s Retro Rack Trad 4

FA: Ben Dare, 2012

18
18 Blame the Rabbit Trad

FA: Ben Dare, 2012

19
17 Big Bouncing Boulders Trad

FA: Danny Murphy & Ben Dare, 2012

20
18 ★ Easy Skanking Trad 170m, 4

FA: Dave Bolger & Rupert Gardiner., 2006

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WI3 ★★★ South Face Classic

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Jay on ★★★ South Face Classic WI3 - Topping out

on ★★★ Touch Down WI3 - received_3473042112984686.jpeg

★★★ Touch Down WI3 - received_658763585796617.jpeg

★★★ Touch Down WI3 - 20230714_121906.jpg

Tue 30 May
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