Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
24 | ★ Repo Man
Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide. Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above. FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
24 | ★ Scorpio
Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ). FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998 | ||||
23 | ★★ Sagittarian
Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground. FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones, 1969 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 12m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Little Thor Direct Finish
After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket. FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988 | 5m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ Look Sharp
Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right. FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1979 | 15m, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Remembrance Day
From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro. Start: as for 'Problematic'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 20m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ V4 Problem
| 5m | |||
23 | ★★★ Brain Death
Follow the wide crack the whole way up. FA: Henry Barber | 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Vogon Destructor Fleet
Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 17 Oct 2015 | 20m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble | |||||
24 R | Stabbur
Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top. Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree. FA: Patrik Alsebv, 1995 | 12m | |||
23 | ★ Wingspan
Start on arête up and left past bolt up to break 3cam then straight up to top of head wall small wires, then finishing out right on arête and up to high anchor | 10m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ Drowsy Drivers Die
The arete. Start 2m R of 'Thimble'. FA: Roland Foster & James Anderson, 1989 | 9m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
24 R | ★ Petro-Fy
Arete with poor pro. Start 3m R of 'Petronius' FA: Peter Martin & Mark Savage, 1990 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin | |||||
23 | ★ spiderman savior
| 7m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
23 | Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman
Caveat emptor! Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'. FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 20m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Hunger
Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge. Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 R | Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete. Start: Start 2m R of LF. FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall | |||||
24 | Chubby Like Chris Part II
The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line. Start: Start R of CLC. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 12m, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | |||||
24 | ★★ A Loaded Gun
Flakes to BR then R and up. Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'. FA: Roland Foster & Allan Wilkie, 1982 | 10m, 1 | |||
24 | Brotherly Love
This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers. Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD. FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989 | 16m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | |||||
23 | Ratatat
Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor. FA: Glenn Tempest, 9 Nov 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 R | Luxury Item
Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out. Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Inquisitive Creatures
Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR. FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Jan 2020 | 23m | |||
23 R | ★ Kookenhagen
The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt Start: Start R of KR. FA: Rod Young & Mike Meyers, 1982 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 | Of Mice And Men
Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left). FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Oct 2016 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Purple Denotes Bruising
Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003. Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully. FA: Mike Law & Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 10m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall | |||||
24 | Wasters in Love
The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now. FA: Simon Mentz, 1989 | 13m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | |||||
23 R | ★ Even More Moves
A heady lead. From the ground, the upper half of this route may look like a straightforward pleasant crimp ladder, with its rows of appealing parallel horizontal edges; it's best not to expect the route to deliver on that expectation. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 12m | |||
23 | The Other Route
Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack. Start: Start off the R end of the ledge. FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Slap Strafe Jerk
Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt. Start: Start as for TOR. FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983 | 25m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Dead Metaphor
Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing. FA: Unknown | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Beside Myself
Start: Start 1.5m R of S.
FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1982 | 30m, 2, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Myself
Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor. FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 4 Jan 2015 | 10m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | |||||
24 | ★ Use Me and Abuse Me
Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?" Start: Start in the cave L of CC. The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced. FA: Simon Mentz, Simon Carter & Richard Henderson, 1991 | 15m, 2 | |||
23 | English Ethics LHF
As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish. Start: Start as for CC. FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1989 | 15m, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | |||||
23 | Ferrari in a Chevrolet World
Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'. Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'. FA: Roland Foster & Dave Vass, 1989 | 12m | |||
24 | ★ Entangled
Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'. Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'. FA: Mark Moorhead, Geoff Robertson & Mike Law, 1981 | 25m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Astral Plane
Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added. Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back. FA: Chris Shepherd & Ian Anger, 1981 | 15m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area | |||||
23 | ★ Thanksgiving Sunday
The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer. Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'. FA: Chris Peisker, 1977 | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Kryptonite Krack
Prance up the inverted trench, exit L. Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge. FA: Greg Child, 1978 | 14m | |||
23 | ★ Auntie Florrie
Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish. Start: Start R of S. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 15m | |||
23 | Clark Kent
Finish direct. Start: Start as for AF. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1979 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | |||||
23 | ★ Predator
Bouldery. Start: Start off boulder underneath roof. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 15m | |||
24 | I Dunno Direct Start
| 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | |||||
24 X | ★ Lois Lane
Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route! Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan, Matt Dunstan & Peter Lindorff, 1979 | 20m | |||
23 R | Beasley St
Start just R of C. Boldly up face to bolt. FA: Guy Cotter & Steve Howden, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area | |||||
23 | ★★ Pain Street
While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux. Start: Start as for 'Cassandra Direct'. | 15m, 7 | |||
23 X | Unguarded Moments
Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break! Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW. FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1982 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
24 | ★ It'll Never Fly
Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off. Start: Just left of 'Orestes'. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 20m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★★ Orestes
You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version. Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.
FA: Jim Newlands & John Bennett, 1966 FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch & 8/76), 1979 | 40m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus | |||||
24 | Evading Infra-Red
Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.
FA: Matthew Brooks & Julian Oldmeadow, 1991 | 35m, 2, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Muldoon Area | |||||
23 | Curved Air
As for Muldoon for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to use the Fail Safe DRB, otherwise continue up Muldoon to its rap anchors. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Dave Moss, 1979 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||
23 | Crows in the Snow
Start on the L side of Collision Course Wall, at the top of the V-slot the trail takes, beneath a short L curving flake. Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Finish up any other route to get off. Poor rock and gear. FA: Paul Tattersall & Chris Shepherd, 1982 FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson), 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | Guessing Game
Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF to the 2nd FH then keeps traversing across to CC. Superseded by FF. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981 | 40m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Female Friends
An exciting face climb that is very sustained. Start as for WoI, and move left at the FH. Up past 2nd FH then back R to a 3rd FH then loweroffs (30m). FA: Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 27m, 3 | |||
24 | Madness
Start up inside the Agamemnon chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall. Tough move at BR then up L to short crack. FA: Chris Shepherd & Stuart Hickson, 1982 | 15m, 1 | |||
24 | Mixed Blessing
Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip. Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T. FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992 | 50m, 4 | |||
24 R | ★★ Telemachus Direct
Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground. FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1981 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | |||||
23 R | Blood and Iron
Reachy. Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff. FA: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992 | 30m, 1 | |||
23 | Pick Pocket
Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole. Start: Start under the arch. FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982 | 30m | |||
24 R | Mr Sheen
Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish. Start: Start 2m R of SDV. FA: Mark Moorhead & Malcolm Matheson, 1981 | 13m, 1 | |||
23 | Throw Me No Beers
Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs. Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way. | 12m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle | |||||
23 | Strings Attached
The speckled face which may have a fixed wire. Start up around L of FP. FA: Chris Shepherd & Warwick Baird, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Finger Prince
Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds. Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT. FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (Direct Start by Nick White & Andy Pollitt), 1990 | 15m, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | |||||
24 | Iron Void Variant Start
Start 8m R of Tubby Tuba. Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect. FA: Steve Monks, 1992 | 15m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Iron Void
Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV. FA: Tony Dignan & Geoff Little, 1979 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★ A Plaything For the Missus
Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR. Start up L of SO. FA: Ross Meffin & Kate Thomas, 1992 | 15m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★★ Spring Offensive
BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR. Start in gully L of F. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Evelyn Lees (Direct Finish by Matthew Brooks & Julian Oldmeadow), 1992 | 20m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | |||||
24 R | Private Assassin
Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete. FA: Douglas Hockly & Esther Renita Thompson, 2002 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||
24 | ★★ The Philosopher
Follow the seams straight up from the start of Cadenza to the break, then finish up Cadenza. Take care as gear is hard to see and place. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968 FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||
23 | Quiet Time
A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap. FA: Hoskins, Wilkins & Pritchard, 1995 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||
24 | ★ Abbie Normal
Start at the left side of the Red Wall. Bridge up gully (G String) to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings. FA: Douglas Hockly & Ingvar Lidman, 2002 | 24m | |||
23 | ★ Sissy Bars and Super Freaks
Start just right of Wraith. Great moves on thin face, cruxy past second bolt. Finish straight up or traverse L to finish up The Wraith or Tannin. FA: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir, 1986 | 30m | |||
23 | A Concerted Effort Direct
| ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area | |||||
23 | Little Aesthetics
Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall. Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again. FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995 | 10m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Golden Triangle
May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look. Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V. Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor. FA: Lachlan Hick & Muki Woods FA: Lachlan Hick & muki woods, 2007 | 20m, 23, 1 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||
24 | Get Knotted
Start 3m right of Mind Games. The seam, then join the finish of Beautiful Loser. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | |||||
24 | ★★ Horrorscope
First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming. Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal. FA: Chris Peisker, 1976 FA: DS Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1984 | 16m | |||
23 | ★ Horrorscope Direct Start
Pretty much a separate route - straight up to the finish of Horrorscope. FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothey & john smoothy, 1984 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | |||||
23 | Duck Off
Start in the gully R of Bam Bam, on the L wall. Thin crack to ledge. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall | |||||
23 | Wall of the Early Morning Wusses
The seam. Start: Start on the L side of 'Wuss Wall'. FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Aubrey, 1980 | 9m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Paladin
Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall. Saunter on up. FA: Greg Child & Andrew Thomson, 1978 | 16m | |||
24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane
Start beneath the proud steep buttress forming the highest part of Wailing Wall. Slightly daunting start leading into the crack, then pump up the power to reach left into the next crack weakness. Up this to large pockets, then finish up and left. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★★ Die Loaded
Start beneath the RH crack. Up the RH groove to it's finish, go up R to a mantle, then the face and the L-most corner. FA: Greg Child, 1978 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Deep Freeze Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Strapping
Up to horizontal, left 1m, then reach to flake on bulge and up. Start: Start 1m L of H. FA: Kieran Loughran & Mark Walters, 1985 | 15m | |||
23 | Deep Blue
Where strapping stumbled off left into easier ground, step right, past bolt and direct to the top. Enough spice to make you think. FFA: Eddy Mofadin, 2014 | 18m, 1 | |||
24 | Handshake
The flared handcrack. Start: Start 4m L of DF. FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980 | 15m | |||
24 | ★ Deep Throat
The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially. Start: Start 1m R of DF. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Poly Evans
Links the middle section of Polygap into the top of Evans Above via the obvious higher traverse. Reach left from the stance on Megalomaniac to clip first and second bolts of Polygap then head up, verring slightly leftwards. Traverse left via tricky underclings and smears to join Evans Above where it steepens. Twin ropes and or long slings are handy. FA: Bradd Jimmink & Geordie Webb, 5 Feb 2019 | 28m, 2 | |||
24 X | ★ Run It Out, Sucker
Start R of Megalomaniac. Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join Power Crazy for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge. FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985 | 36m | |||
23 R | ★★ Vacancy
Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!). Take lots of #1 RPs. Often mossy, may need a brush. Start 2m R of Devoid. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior. FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1979 | 25m | |||
24 | Another One Bites the Dust
Start R of Vacancy. Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack. FA: Mike Graham, 1980 | 40m | |||
23 R | ★ Moving Right Along
Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D. Start 8m L of D. FA: Mark Moorhead & Steve Lassche, 1980 | 14m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
24 R | ★ Split Level
Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join Cecilia. It's worse to second than to lead. Start as for JC. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 30m | |||
24 | ★★ Guide for the Perplexed
Start 3m R of Johns Corner at RB, face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness. Lower off. FA: Lincoln Shepherd (originally traversing off - the finish was added in), 1990 | 25m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ I-GoB-BA Link-Up
Really very good link up. Intransience's initial steep moves to a rest, then L and up as for Blind Ambition, to the chains. (There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent). FA: Christian Seger & Adam Syriatowicz, 1997 | 27m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★★ Intransience
Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall. Start 10m R and down from Cecilia. Trad anchor on top. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1979 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
23 | ★ Thin Air
Start 1m R of T. Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face. FA: Chris Shepherd & Paul Tattersall, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Revolution Rock
Start 10m down R of Copyright in small gully. Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left and up to an old wad of cord to lower off. There is also a few more FHs 2-3m R of this line - anyone know what this is? FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 18m | |||
24 | ★ Revolution Rock Low Start
Boulder into Revolution Rock using evil pockets. |