Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Up to tree after using flake to L of corner to get started. 2 BR

Up and around overhang L of corner.

Face and narrow arête on L end of rocks near a large eucalypt down past the wide loose gully that comes down from near Sipofene Wall.

Arete to R of Palisade

Up narrow face R of crack that is Pedestal. BR.

Corner crack. Solo FA

Narrow Arete on L. 2BR. Solo FA

V corner. BR

Up the corner crack L of dead tree on ledge R of Dunne Za face

Arete. BR

LH corner of face

Arete of thin spine of rock on same spine as Yarralin but a long way below it and above a Cherry Ballart

Squeeze chimney on the higher downhill face of the main tor. Keeping in higher up. start at other end of gully or from lower ground for a slightly harder chimney, still no pro.

Easy corner where the slab meets the pillar.

Going up the easiest angled slab on the secret beach side of the boulder starting with a slightly tricky mantle

Good holds up the front of the tor right of Smoke Detector.

Follow the jaw line L of Cachalot up.

follows slab all the way up to the summit. Starts at foot of slender slab at the side of Mount Bishop, there is a ledge next to some trees which is where the climb starts.

1. 50m Up the slab through path of least resistance

2. 50m Follow the crack, then up slab to bushy ledge with rocks

3. 50m Slab and leftward corner, then veer up right to rightward corner and good belay

4. 50m Back to bulge then across to top

As the name suggests, written up to ensure others aren't tempted. The main weakness of the giant pillar that divides Left Side and Right Side. Step across to 2m of enjoyable climbing at the top.

Starts as for "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). This original start eliminates the closing offwidth crack start.

Start below the right of the two cracks in the wall in front of the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag as for "Big Kiss". Climb this crack over the easing angle and then traverse right over slab to join left facing crack (SS DS). Starts tending left up to horizontal break, and follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain).

The route then joins the start of right tending crack just above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

Starts down lower, 10m right of "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib).

Starts at base of flake, up steep wall for 5m and onto easing angle continuing to follow crack. SS then follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain) staying left of the steep wall to right. Up this stain to join the right facing crack above the vegetation.

Above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

15m R of the archway. the R facing corner left of the prominent wall. Up the crack under the overhang, then step R and up to a sloping ledge 4m higher. Straight up to the top.

80m L of the archway at the R side of a small corner. Relatively sound rock (relative to what?) The crack.

The crack 3m L of Xbed.

300m R upstream of Shale Inferno at the only shimney. The lose chimney, belaying near the track above.

Loose as a goose and the first route done in the area. The L facing corner at the L end of the cliff to the ramp which is very loose. Up the broken ground to a Woolami style finish. Belay well back from the top.

Start at the flake about 1.5m off the ledge and 3m left of Calamari Corner.

Starts at undercut corner 3m left of Fried Flake. Awkward but well protected move off the boulders below the corner. Up to block and around right to exit.

Summary: Poor protection, average rock quality.

Location: Murwillumbah, Nobbys creek road, Second nob. Ask owners permission.

Route: Start to the right of the vertical section. Whack a sling around a protusion roughly 12m up (the crux). continue to first ledge. Then to the next ledge. Finish up to the old gnarly gum tree. Walk down the nob ( cant rap). 60m rope needed.

2m R AS , up easy face corner

2m R of SE, up easy face

Up cracks.

Dirty corner crack with chock stone.

One of the first routs at this cliff by the Dodgy Brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET.

A waste of space. No .. not women .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff.

sds and up. FA done by 7 yo.

A good way to check out the holds for the others.

Walk or climb up slanted face

A good beginners route with interesting juggy features up a small slab. A little blocky at top. Easy descent to the R.

At the RH end of Ripple Wall before the Pandanus. This is the easiest route to take down when descending Ripple Wall.

The ocean facing wall just r of rwav

Chimney then overlap / chockstone and crack

Chimney, to chockstone, then climb easy wall to the right.

Layback to break, step right, then up gully. One of the Hunter valley's earliest climbs, now a largely vegetated gully line.