Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector I | |||||||
6+ ~7 | ★ My Unprecious | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Wetter after Rain. Water stays in holds for a long time.
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Fri 17th May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector I | |||||||
6 ~7 | ★ Smeagol - with dario Milosevic | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 12th May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Main | |||||||
6c | ★★ Try Again — 2 attempts | 10m | |||||
Sun 12th May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Magnolia Sector IV | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Acrişor — 5 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excelent, un traseu extraordinar, chiar cu de toate.
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Fri 10th May 2024 - Cheile Galbenului | |||||||
Faleza La Poveşti | |||||||
5 | Balaurul | 11m | |||||
6 | Făt Frumos | 11m | |||||
6/6+ | ★ Tândală | 11m | |||||
6 | Păcală | 13m | |||||
5 | Balaurul | 11m | |||||
6 | Făt Frumos | 11m | |||||
5+ | Prâslea | 11m | |||||
6/6+ | ★ Tândală | 11m | |||||
6 | Păcală | 13m | |||||
5+ | Prâslea | 11m | |||||
Thu 9th May 2024 - Cheile Galbenului | |||||||
Peretele Peşterii | |||||||
D | ★★ Vânturilor | 250m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 9th May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Right | |||||||
4 | ★ Tom | 10m | |||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Vânturătoarea Sector 1 | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Rachiu cu vai — 4 attempts | 35m | |||||
35 de metri în care trebuie sa te concentrezi. Prima data la Herculane/vanturatoarea, dar m-aș mai întoarce cu drag oricând. Sper sa am ocazia să mă reîntorc cans voi fi în forma mai buna.
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6a+ | ★★★ P.O.H.U.I | 35m | |||||
35 de metri blanao.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Vânturătoarea Sector 2 | |||||||
6a | Guano | ||||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Cheile Galbenului | |||||||
Surplomba Multilateral Dezvoltată | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Surplomba Multilateral Dezvoltată | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Is best to set the top first, there old and missing pitons on the route. Suzy & Cristi next to it are in very good condition for lead climbing.
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Cheile Galbenului | |||||||
Zona La Ieşire | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Ioana | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6+ | ★★ Simona | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★★ Simona | 17m | |||||
6 | ★★ Dinu | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Adi | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cariera Phoenix | |||||||
6- | Talk About Your Life | 6m | |||||
Sat 4th May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cariera Vis de Copil | |||||||
6 | ★★ Noi Vrem Pământ | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 2nd May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Right | |||||||
5b | ★ Shrek | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 2nd May 2024 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Km 9 Sector 4 | |||||||
5b | ★★ Evgenia | 12m, 7 | |||||
5b | ★★ Buna Mili | 12m, 7 | |||||
Thu 2nd May 2024 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Km 9 Sector 1 | |||||||
5c+ ~6a | ★ Bobâlna Sfinx | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
5b | ★ 7 izvoare | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cariera Nedeia | |||||||
6- | Părerea lui Marius | 17m | Crap | ||||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cariera Popeye | |||||||
6- ~6 | ★★★ Olive | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6 | ★★ Bestia | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 1st May 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Left | |||||||
6c | ★★ YOLO — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd Go. Glad I did it on the last day of the trip
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Far right | |||||||
8+ | 3 lei — 3 attempts | 15m | |||||
Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Right | |||||||
5b | ★★ Taz | 12m | |||||
Mon 29th Apr 2024 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Vânturătoarea Sector 1 | |||||||
6b+ | Pișcături | 10m | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Do it yourself | 35m | |||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Left | |||||||
7a Easy | ★★ Bini Lee — 3 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice and varied. Soft
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Left | |||||||
6a+ | Frontal | ||||||
First pitch only
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7a Easy | ★★ Bini Lee | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Right | |||||||
6a | ★★ Kaa | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b | ★★ Udele | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Faleza I | |||||||
8-/8 | ★ Anaconda - with Mihnea Curutiu | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
7 | ★ Sorel - with Mihnea Curutiu | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Retezat | |||||||
Bucura Bucura II Peretele Nord-Estic | |||||||
5+ | ★★★ Creasta Vulturilor - with AmeB | 300m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
All belay stations (now ~30m apart) were upgraded to bolted anchors.
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Retezat | |||||||
Bucura Bucura II Peretele Nord-Estic | |||||||
A1 M4 |
Hornul Mare-Negru
- with
Alex
1
M3
lead by
Alex
A bit of chimneying and some water ice . Uncomfortable belay on 2 pitons with cordelette
2
M2
lead by
Alex
Mostly low-angle and runout, not very well protectable with screws. Belay on 2 bulldogs and 1 knifeblade on a ledge at the right of the route, using the "official" belay (1 piton) as a Jesus piece
3
M4
20m of delicate climbing on a verglas-covered dihedral, protected mostly on gear and not a lot of it either, then 1 good rest with a new knifeblade in it (hammered in upside down and only halfway in, but I couldn't remove the thing, and I tried...) before 1 oblique verglassy flaring chimney (crux of the pitch) and easy terrain to the belay (2 pitons, hanging belay if you're short). As a second, it's beautiful, beautiful climbing...
4
A1 M4
Smooth-walled dihedral, with a line of frozen grass in the middle. As the dihedral gets steeper and almost overhanging at times, the grass line gets narrower and rock feet become necessary. Right before the ridge exit, there's an overhanging boulder. The summer UIAA 6 grade is probably correct (slightly overhanging layback on great handholds and high-adherence feet) but that solution doesn't work in crampons, and if too little ice forms on it the free climbing solution (a traverse to the left on really sketchy holds) is apparently M7/8. Me I just climbed the pitons ;p
5
M2
lead by
Alex
Simulled the rest of the ridge
6
M2
lead by
Alex
7
M2
lead by
Alex
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Holy fucking shit.
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Thu 22nd Feb 2024 - Retezat | |||||||
Bucura Bucura II Peretele Nord-Estic | |||||||
5- A0 |
★★★ 25 Octombrie
- with
alex
1
4+
40.50m
lead by
alex
Pulled on one piton since, with another team behind us, I was under the impression we were in a hurry. Was informed that we weren't.
2
5-
40m
lead by
alex
Chimney is fun as hell
3
3
30m
lead by
alex
Lovely day out on a sunny, snowed up ridge.
4
A0 M4
50m
lead by
alex
Pitons pulled: 1 on the slab above the belay since I'd land on the other team if I slipped, 2 in the crux dihedral Really, really cool climbing otherwise, Slabs and traverses on fine feet up to the dihedral, then a light but very fun cracked slab - alternating between offwidth moves on the left appendages and finesse slab on the right appendages is really interesting
5
2
50m
Simulclimbing
6
2
50m
Simulclimbing, rap retreat on the gully to the left. | 260m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 6 "Diaclaza mare" | |||||||
6c | ★ Hades — 3 attempts - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
6c | ★ Hades — 2 attempts - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cariera Popeye | |||||||
6 | ★★ Bestia | 15m | |||||
7 | ★★ Myosotis | 15m | |||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Right | |||||||
5b | ★★ Taz | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
5b | ★ Shrek | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 6 "Diaclaza mare" | |||||||
6b+ | Morpheus - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 13 | |||||
6c | ★ Hades - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
6c | ★ Hades — 2 attempts - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 6 "Diaclaza mare" | |||||||
6c | ★ Hades — 2 attempts - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
6c | ★ Hades — 2 attempts - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
5b+ | ★ Contre-jour - with Cristina Melichian | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Magnolia Sector IV | |||||||
7- | Experiment — 2 attempts | 20m | |||||
6 | ★ Titan | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★ Deva | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
8-/8 | ★★ Studentenfutter — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dirty
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 6 "Diaclaza mare" | |||||||
6c | ★ Hades — 2 attempts - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 4 "Peretele Mare" | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Kartoffel - with Cristina Melichian | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 4 "Peretele Mare" | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Kartoffel — 2 attempts | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 1 "La urcare" | |||||||
6c/c+ | Point break | 30m, 15 | Average | ||||
6c/c+ | Point break | 30m, 15 | Average | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Vânturătoarea Sector 2 | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Aqua forte | ★★★ Classic | |||||
A lot of really nice holds with big moves in between. After the ledge the rock changes quite a bit for a few technical crimps with an interesting finish inside an overhanging crack. Felt around 5.10c/d for me, easier than Vegeta, with bigger holds/bigger moves being more my style than small crimps and bad feet.
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5c Hard | Capra mare | ★ Good | |||||
A bouldery little 5.9+ dihedral crack. Can set anchors from above. We broke a big RH jug off down low.
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6a+ ~6b | ★★ Vegeta | ★★ Very Good | |||||
A really nice line of crimps, textures, and weird feet. Technical dessert for the enthusiast. Around 5.10d.
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6a ~6a+ | Guano | Crap | |||||
The top of this route is quite literally, full of crap. You might want to check the ledge from above to see the condition of the finish before inadvertently covering yourself in bird feces. Kind of awkward climbing, not the greatest warmup.
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Vânturătoarea Sector 1 | |||||||
7c Hard | ★★★ Dogs | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really powerful crux after an initial easy section on jugs. The boulder problem builds in intensity before the big move then lets off a bit into power endurance on good edges...you don't get a restful position until you're standing at the anchors.
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7c+ Hard | ★★★ Choose right! (right) | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Worked the moves until the roof, then got too late to finish. HARD boulder on powerful edges. Could not do the last move from the undercling and crimp to the jug thing out right. Feet are hard to set.
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Vânturătoarea Sector 2 | |||||||
6b | ★ Paradise City | ★ Good | |||||
Awkward out-of-place bolting on the lower part, bolts 2&3 trend way too far right just below the jug rail. The obvious beta follows the arete to the break. After bolt 3 it's fine, and the rest of the climb is really enjoyable and techy.
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Vânturătoarea Sector 1 | |||||||
7a+ ~6c+ | ★★★ Rachiu cu vai | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Softer than my ding-dong after 3 whiskeys. Still, an incredible route that shouldn’t be missed. 6c+/7a.
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6a+ | ★★★ P.O.H.U.I | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Average start, cool finish
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Km 9 Sector 5 | |||||||
6c+ Hard | ★★ Girls allowed | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Difficult bouldery start moves with a tits-hard crux surmounting the roof on small crimps. Left knee-pad is helpful and you have to sort feet quick or you'll get spit off. Setting anchors was a little tricky until you find the holds
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6a+ | ★★ Gălușca | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My dumbass beta made this feel 6b. Cool line but not as classic as Swiss Cheese.
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6a | ★★★ Swiss cheese | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Not often you get to do a route like this. So so cool.
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6b+ Hard | ★★ Kimchi | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard 5.10d/11a. Short and punchy with some serious overhang on crimps. Finish is a little uninspiring and goofy.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Magnolia Sector IV | |||||||
7a Easy | ★★★ Acrişor | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaned a bunch of dirt and plants out of this rig hanging draws. Should've led it again but got scared of the last move to anchors, which was the crux for me. Smashed it on TR and regretted not sending on the sharp end. What a solid line. On the easier side of 7a if you move efficiently.
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6a+ | ★★★ Bossaball | 20m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice route with perfect texture on a crack the entire way. A few hollow bits here and there but I trundled anything loose. 6a with a 6a+ crux move to anchors. Tried to start the extension but the hold next to the tree was soaked and I had to back off.
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7- ~7+ | ★★ Veldensteiner | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A complex route that requires thinking with every move. 6b-ish with a pumpy crux
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 5 "Pe Țanc + Diaclaza mică" | |||||||
5b ~5c | ★ Canal - with alex707 | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
5a ~5b | ★ Periprava - with alex707 | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 4 "Peretele Mare" | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Kartoffel - with Cristina Melichian | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
6b+ | ★★★ Kartoffel - with Cristina Melichian | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 5 "Pe Țanc + Diaclaza mică" | |||||||
5b | ★ Canal - with Cristina Melichian | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
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5a | ★ Periprava - with Cristina Melichian | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Probably the easiest route at this crag
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Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector III | |||||||
7 Hard | ★★★ Morpheus | 24m | |||||
Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 4 "Peretele Mare" | |||||||
6b+ Hard | ★★★ Kartoffel | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Right | |||||||
6b+ | ★ Purple Finger | 12m | |||||
Retroonsight
2nd Go |
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Zona Roman Surplombă Left | |||||||
7a | ★★ Bini Lee | 20m | |||||
2nd Go
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7a | ★★ Bini Lee | 20m | |||||
2nd Go
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 3 "Duracell" | |||||||
6b | ★★ The queen is dead - with alex707 | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Valea Cernei | |||||||
Vânturătoarea Sector 1 | |||||||
6a+ Hard | ★★★ P.O.H.U.I — 2 attempts - with Andreea-Madalina Cucu | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic |