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Dark Side Buttress

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Description

The next routes to the right are found on the Dark Side Buttress with the large and prominent overhang

Access issues inherited from King's Kloof

On arrival at the security gate, state that you are going climbing. The guard will then ask you to fill in the register/indemnity and pay R50 per person. Otherwise please book in with Derek Schneider, the manager of the Rocky Valley camp (083 326 8618). He lives in the house on the left nearest the bridge.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Ethic inherited from King's Kloof

Access has been granted by the two religious organisations who own the land under the agreement that all the crag rules below are followed and that all new routes are given names with respectful christian connotations.

Job 1:21. The Lord giveth, the Lord taketh away. Please heed the following:

  • No alcohol
  • Take home all litter and refuse (including fruit peels and cigarette butts)
  • No destruction of vegetation
  • No interference with any animals
  • No soap or detergents or chemicals allowed in or near the river
  • No loud music
  • No graffiti or defacing of rocks
  • Toilet activities must be more than 60m from streams with no trace visible afterwards. Carry out toilet paper. (Just use the bathrooms near the parking).
  • Be polite an courteous to all staff and management.
  • Only climbing allowed, no other activities permitted including fishing, quad bikes, motor bikes, hunting.

Routes

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Grade Route

Bridge up the wide crack and move right onto the wall. Difficult moves over the overhang lead to a finish back left.

Set: David Tapp, 2010

FA: Neil Margetts, 2010

Neil’s project

Set: Neil Margretts

Set: David Tapp

FA: Neil Margetts, 2012

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasps

Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the head-wall to the anchors.

Climb Turn Or Burn onto th eheadwall, then traverse right along a thin crack

FA: Johannes Hachmann, 2015

Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors.

Set: David Tapp, 2010

FA: Neil Margetts, 2010

Starts just right of Armageddon, crosses it at half height and finishes 2m to its left. Traverse right under a bulge using obvious under-clings and up to easier ground. Continue straight up to a large rail near a prominent, diamond-shaped white block. From here climb straight through the roofs directly above exiting left at the top to the anchors.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2010

Technical lower section leads to a slab and a step left across the abyss. Exposed finish (17) up the overhangs. Note: Having clipped the bolt past the slab, unclip the slab bolt to lessen rope drag.

FA: David Tapp, 2010

Start 3m left of TFH. Move up on large holds and left across a slab. Strenuous moves with fingery holds lead to a groove. Up this to the anchors.

Set: Neil Margetts, 2011

FA: George Stainton, 2011

Move up on large holds as for the main climb. Continue up and traverse left into the groove on good holds.

Start in a crack and corner feature at the left end of easy slabs. Climb up and over the bulge just right of the bolts, then up the slab, trending left until under the overhangs. Climb the groove above, to the anchors.

Set: David Tapp, 2010

FA: Taryn Van Olden, 2010

An alternative start which takes the off-balance groove/crack on the left of the first bolt.

FA: David Tapp, 2011

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

Set: Neil Margetts

FA: Therese van Wyk, Jan 2015

This climb is way right of the last one but the cave it's in is an obvious feature. Start just left of the bigger cave on the far right of the crag. Move up (with difficulty if short) to an off-balance rest and then do a series of strenuous moves right to get established on the headwall. Climb the headwall trending left to the chains.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2011

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Fri 2 Jun
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