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The Theatre Mostly Sport climbing 14 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 32
14
SA
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Description

A few incredible lines including some classic trad on the big obvious orange wall you can see for miles! Be brave and leave the social crags of 'The God No Wall' and 'The Superbowl' for a day and check out these brilliant lines.

Access issues inherited from Wonderland Area

Climbing Permits Wonderland The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, 'The Mayhem Crags' and 'Tranquilitas'. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs: Day Permits R 60 Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30 Weekend Permits R100 Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50 Month permits R 600 Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300 Annual R1600 Annual for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1 200 By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

Approach

As for 'The Left Wings', continue another 50m or so until a huge slightly detached 4m high block is reached. The big orange left-facing wall of 'Heart of China' is an obvious landmark.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 ★★★ Endless October Sport 9

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasps

Starts at the left end of the ledge/block. Brilliant.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

2
25 ★★ Sweet Cousin Cocaine Sport 10

From the right of the block climb past a bouldery lower section then a finish on huge jugs. Superb.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

3
23 ★★ Night of the Toast Trad

The obvious crack line on the left of 'The Theatre', just right of 'Sweet Cousin Cocaine'.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

4
28 ★★ Mankini Blue Sport 9

A crimpers delight! Climb first couple bolts of 'Bikini Red' then branch left and up the crimpy wall. Was opened at 26 but apparently its not. MCSA Bolts

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2012

5
27 ★★★ Bikini Red Sport 9

Stunning! Better than 'Lotter's Desire'? In the middle of the face. Name written at base. The first bolt is very high but the climbing is super easy. Don‟t stray left at the top, just trust those feet and go!

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

6
16 ★★★ Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator Sport 14

Climbs the scoop 5m right of 'Bikini Red'. Opened on trad gear, very poorly protected. Has been retro-bolted, have a safe flight.

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

Set: Clive Curson, 2018

7
22 ★★★ G-Minor in G-String Sport 13

Using the cracks to clear the bulge. Cross left over 'Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator' at a third way up at the shared ledge using hangers. Then it is all the business trying to keep your G-string clean!

FA: Mel Janse van Rensburg & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2018

8
20 ★★ Stage Fright Sport 16

Starting 5m left of the 'Centre Stage' corner, go up and somewhat left to the arete. Follow this to anchors. Less scary since retro-bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

Set: Clive Curson, 2018

9
14 ★★ 2b or not 2b Sport 12

A fairly moderate way to the highest ledge (80% up) in the middle of this impressive amphitheatre. Starting 3m left of 'Centre Stage', go up to the diagonal break leading back to the main corner. Last move to the lower anchors is the crux. Extend draws in the mid-section.

FA: Arielle & Talia Behr, 2018

10
18 ★★ Centre Stage Sport 15

This is the leftmost route on the right wall of 'The Theatre'. Climbs the corner. Avoid the weird looking pillar on your left low down. Crux layback at the top.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

Set: 2018

11
23 ★★★ Into the Night We Slide Trad

Just to the right of the major dihedral in 'The Theatre', a few meters left of 'Heart of China'. Opened on trad. Sparse gear.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

12
23 ★★★ Heart of China Trad

CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall, via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. One of the best trad lines at 'The Restaurant'.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991

13
30 ★★ Big In Japan Sport 14

The line of bolts left of 'Kindred Spirits'. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was re-bolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014

Set: Danny Pinkas

FA: Marc Efune, Nov 2014

14
26 ★★★ Kindred Spirits Sport 10

At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 3rd clip out left). Opened at 25!

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

Set: 2009

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23 ★★★ Heart of China
24 ★★★ Endless October

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