Routes in Western Cape for selected grade

Climb the slab

Climb up the steps

Climb the stacked blocks/ rib on the left.

Climb as for Wishing Well, but sit-start (sitting on the rock) higher on the layaway.

Sit-start with the jug / crack, move up right to a good ledge and top-out direct.

Start with left hand on a slopey gaston and right hand higher on a sidepull / pinch on the arête.

Sit-start with left hand in the groove and climb the broken face keeping left.

Sit-start with left hand on an edge and right hand on a smaller edge, right hand to sloper.

Hang-start on a jug and move up right to top-out onto the Skins boulder.

Hang-start on a big jug, traverse right along the lip and finish up the front of the prow.

Sit-start on two edges beneath the roof and top-out direct.

Climb the juggy arête feature.

Sit-start with both hands in the right end of the jug rail, left hand to a sidepull in a seam and top-out direct.

Sit-start and head straight up the crumbly comb.

Sit-start on a rail, RH to the hole.

Sit-start on jugs and top-out direct.

Hang-start on a super jug and head up slightly right.

Sit-start on a slopey ledge and top-out direct.

Sit-start on underclings and risking serious injury move right to a suspect block and up.

Sit-start with both hands on an undercling, right hand to a jug. Base is off for feet once you have the jug.

Climb the rippled slab on the right.

Hang-start in the rail, left hand to a jug, right hand up to a rail and top-out direct.

Hang-start with left hand on a 'two-pocket ledge' in the rail, climb diagonally right to two jugs in a rail and top-out direct without using the shelf on the right for feet. Gets high quick!

Crouch start and climb the juggy groove.

Standstart. Climb the slab to TO.

Standstart, climb slab up to the halfway ledge on the face.

Standstart. Climb the slab.

Stand start, climb the pinnacle, TO.

Stand start, climb the slab, TO.

SS on good holds and climb the steep face

Climb all over this face.

Climb up and onto a ledge and up again

Climb the arete to top out.

Easy Arete. Hidden holds make this easier than it seems.

Climb the arete.

Some nonsense eliminate.

Sit start, climb directly up on square-cut edges.

Climb the arete to top out.

Sit start, climb the juggy crack to top out.

Sit start on the arête and traverse up along the juggy lip.

Stand start on a jug and top-out direct.

Sit start with BH in the jug rail, traverse R around the corner until you can stand on the rock

Sit start with BH in the big layback, climb the crack and TO

Sit start and climb the prow.

Climb the obvious layback crack, TO.

Start with both hands on large jug between 'cheeks'. climb directly up top out. Using a fist jam on this problem may be tempting, but consider your reputation...

Climb right arete.

Climb directly up, past overlap about 2m left of arete.

Start with hands on jug block under boulder. Traverse right to face left of arete, top out.

Start with hands on large block under boulder to top out.

Sit-start on the lowest jug, CD to TO.

Climb the big crack, from a sit-start. If you happen to own a full set of 13th century armour, then bring it along for this classic problem.

Climb the layback crack to TO.

Starting from the huge foothold, climb the slab between the arete and the crack (without using either of those features).

Sit start and climb the left-hand seam.

Sit start with left-hand in a slot, climb directly up to top out.

Climb the corner. More technical than you hoped...

Sit start, climb the prow to top out.

Start with right hand in good pocket. Climb slab to top out.

Sit start and climb face to top out.

There is a grade 3 variation that climb diagonally up left from the same start.

Climb the juggy arete.

Start in rail, long move climb diagonally right to good hold, then do battle with the bush to top out.

Sit start, climb to top out.

Sit start in the groove, top out.

The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.

1. 80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.

2. 85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).

3. 60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.

4. and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.

5. Same as pitch 4.

6. 100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.

7. 60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.

8. 120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.

9. 40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.

10. 120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.

11. 50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.

12. 120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.

Time for ascent: 8 hours.

On the left-hand side part of the ledge step (1-2.5m) over a gap and climb the break to the top

Start on the furthermost part of the prominent ledge. Climb the break to the top

Descent: Walk down the Cape Town side.

sit down, both hands on the lower hole. Top out through vertical crack

Sit-start and climb the face.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.

Climb the slab.

Climb the arete.

Sit-start and climb the face.

Climb the many easy lines up the featured face

Sit-start with left hand on gaston and climb straight up.

Climb the undercut arête

Sit-start and climb up on jugs.

Climb the slab without the arêtes.

Climb the arête.