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Divaväggen Rock climbing 6 routes in cliff

Grade context: SWE
Ascents: 58

SWE

4+5 6-6+7

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Description

All day sun

Probably the most climbed wall in Ågelsjön with some real classics. All routes have top anchors and is fairly simple to put up a top rope. Could be good to bring some longer slings or static rope to minimize wear on your rope.

Access issues inherited from Ågelsjön

Allowed

Naturreservat, nature reserve. Check the rules displayed on the billboard at the parking.

Approach

Follow the gravel road from the parking lot towards the water past the camping and fire pit. The first wall that appears is the "Lilla Berget", follow the wall until it ends and the next wall is "Divaväggen". You could say that "Divaväggen" and "Lilla Berget" are just one long wall.

Descent notes

Walk off can be done on the left side of the cliff.

History

History timeline chart

Got this story from an older man when I was climbing. The name "Divaväggen" comes from that at the time the "Divaleden" was one of the hardest routes and you were a real diva if you climbed it since you just wanted to show off to all hikers. If this is true, I have no idea!

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Routes

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Climb left after the third bolt.

FA: Schlyter, 1991

Keep right after the third bolt.

Start in the crack and when it ends go over to the left crack and continue to the top.

FA: Bågmark, 1988

It is a classic route in Ågelsjön perfect for bringing people for their first time climbing outdoors on a top rope or for the new trad climber that wants a well-protected trad climb.

When building a top rope some longer slings/static rope could be good to decrease wear on your rope.

FA: Johansson, 1985

One of the most climbed routes in Ågelsjön. Nice climb on good hold, in the end, it joins with "Divaleden".

FA: Johansson

Exit variant of "Nollan", when the last bolt is clipped, keep to the right of the bolt up to the anchor.

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