Ascents in Pays du St-Bernard

First pitch and final three pitches are fantastic.

Tried to green point, but the middle part does not seem protectable, didn't want to risk ground fall.

No idea why this is called "chimney" as it is straight forward face climbing. Nice nonetheless.

Nice flow - great route!

Tried to green point, but did not have enough large cams for upper part and no micros for the start.

With an early start in the shadow, this route over-all felt quite a bit harder than its neighbour "Tajabone". There are a few tough-for-the-grade moves and difficulties are more sustained.

1. Short pitch along a crack. Felt harder than 5b.

2. Extremely cool V-corner, then left onto a slab, then a little boulder-problem.

3. Rather easy terrain and a crack.

4. Traverse left to a little boulder problem, then easy terrain up to the right.

5. Short athletic boulder problem.

6. Traverse right onto a flake and then solve the boulder problem to get into the crack that follows up to the next belay. This is the single hardest move on the route.

7. Fine slab, then old-school-chimney.

8. One single harder move (bolt).

Unfortunately we were mislead to use the new looking rappel anchors to the right of the route and ultimately the rope got stuck two times. It seems these belong to another route, though? Not sure...

It may be better to abseil along the route - even though the maillons are small and there are ample opportunities for the rope to get stuck too...

Extremely beautiful route in a wonderful environment. Very easy apart from one single athletic move in P5, which I could not decipher quickly enough and thus pulled on the quick draw...

Route has bolts, but sometimes very far apart. Well protectable with a small set of cams.

We chose the left variant at the start and followed the route up to the ledge where the headwall begins and then climbed the "Pilier érotique".