Routes in Midlands

The short corner right of the tree at the top of the crag

Highball. Climb steeply up the big horizontal red flakes and through a black notch. Surmount the bulge and finish just left of the tree.

The overhanging crack above the cave is interesting to start and has an easy finish past a tree.

From the base of the crag climb a short crack onto a block and then up the short black wall on good pockets to a harder finish

Climb directly up the blunt arete left of the corner of Ash Wall

Take the easiest way onto the ledge and then the centre of the short upper wall left of the corner

Start just left of the clean wall. Climb rightwards past a tree and scramble up the broken ledge to gain and climb a large open book corner leading to the top

Start 3m left of the large tree on the ledge where there is a short crack in the lower wall. Climb this and cross the grassy ledge to the continuation crack up the wall just right of Ash Wall

The wall and left arete of the clean, compact wall has a loose finish. The tree is difficult to avoid.

From the lowest point of the crag, climb the centre of the wall, go leftwards round a bulge onto the terrace and exit up from here

Start in centre of wall and climb rightwards on good hidden hand holds to gain a terrace. Climb up the crack and then step left (avoid getting a bush in the face) to gain top.

Climb the vertical crack on the right of the main wall to the right end of the terrace and continue straight up over a bulge to finish slightly right

To the right, and before the crag disappears into ivy, follow the blocky wall into the obvious shallow groove and fight through the tree to finish.

On the first section of rock. Climb easy ground just left of a stump halfway up the cliff to a tree at the top.

Make a hard move to climb just right of the stump and end at the tree at the top

The projecting arete is climbed on its left-hand side before swinging rightwards, thread runner, to finish past blue paint.

A slabby left-hand groove. Belay from the tree

right of blue groove on slab. small gear and cams. smear to finish

The right hand corner groove over a bulge with an easier finish up to the tree.

To the right is a black slab. This route climbs the rather vegetated, shallow rightward-tending groove at the left-hand edge of the slab. From the top of the groove finish rightwards.

The left edge of the slab is started via a short thin crack. Continue directly past the overlap and then finish rightwards.

Follow the shallow leftward-tending groove and step right to a peg runner. Pull over the overlap at its widest point and finish direct.

Start just to the right. Follow the wide crack awkwardly past the tree and then directly to the top. This may also be started from the left. Crack is streaked green and the tree at half height is gone, now just a stump.

Climb the loose lower wall to pass the large hole on the left and continue directly up to the fine finishing groove in the corner.

From the ledge climb a crack in the left hand wall.

The centre of the pillar provides some thought-provoking and well protected climbing at the top. Climb the short, steep wall awkwardly to a small ledge at the foot of a groove. Follow the groove to finish on the left arete.

A good steep route up the right hand arete of the tower that develops at half height. Pull up on some large holds and climb steeply past a thread runner to the horizontal break, ring bolt above. No E2 tick if you bridge right. Step left and climb the front face to a peg runner and a tricky exit.

Takes the fat finger crack from the back of the Dead Good cave to join White Heat at its final peg. Low end E1, so probably E0.

Start up Dead Heat crack. Trend left into deep groove and then rightwards onto ledge of Dead Good. Top out via groove 1m left of Dead Good groove.

The obvious steep, long crackline that rises up from directly above the cave. Start on the left wall and join the crack at about 4 metres, an alternative start can be made direct through the overhang at 5c but with no change in overall grade. Classic of the crag for mere mortals; i.e. those who won't lead a badly protected E3 like 'Live Evil!!'

Start up centre of undercut by the cave(by dead good)(6a) or over left hand end at 5c. Peg on the right above. Straight up to second peg. Then straight up the hard headwall with a good bit of exposure.

The thin crackline to the right of Live Evil.

To the right the wall has been climbed by the crack line left of the open corner. Follow the crack and step left onto the half height ledge. Finish up the smooth wall to exit just left of the yew tree.

Climb the corner passing tree stumps finishing up the crack in the headwall. Belay stake at the top.

A partial traverse of the main crag. Start up The Whole Truth, diagonally right to the small ledge on The Black Hole, and round the arete to White Heat and bridge to Dead Good. Move right across Live Evil and exit via Coming Up For The Bends

A full L-R traverse of the main crag. This can be split into pitches to suit the party but one itinerary is listed here. P1: Start up Left Root keeping below the stump, cross Right Root to the ledge of True Blue clipping the thread runner and swing round into Blue Groove, continue across Black Slab below the overlap to belay in Nothing But. P2: Cross the ledge of Whole Truth, grovel round to White Heat, desperately clipping the ring peg, and bridging to the large block between Dead Heat and Dead Good. P3: Breathe deep, traverse onto the overhanging bit of Live Evil, reach up to clip the peg (don't exhale on it) and finish - gasping for oxygen - on Coming Up For The Bends.

Right to left, staying under the roof and emerging on the side of the prow.

Climb the prow from the back via some crimps and big moves up and left.

Technical though rather artifical. The left edge of the wall leads past a small bulge to a bolt runner. Finish directly up the blunt arete

The arete on the left is undercut and is challenging to start. Once off the ground it gets easier

The Slabby left hand groove has an awkward exit onto the ledge. Sneak off left wards to finish or finish direct.

Climb the face between Little Job and Odd Job on it's right hand side. Eliminate cracks and bridging on the climbs either side for holds and gear placement. Use the two threads and some poor cam and nut placements for protection. Finish up final loose groove shared with Odd Job. Poorly protected but escapable.

The right hand groove has a tricky start. Finish direct, or move leftwards as for Little Job.

The righthand undercut blunt arete. Start just around to the right and climb up and left to a ledge with an old peg runner. Move up and right then finish direct.

The centre of the wall to the right. Pull up to the ledge and move steeply up left of the trees to the fine finishing wall. Allegedly there was an old peg but not visible in 2021. There is a thread runner on the top wall.

Start as for Big Job but traverse up and right to the obvious ramp. Follow this and then finish up the final steep wall stepping right at the top

8m to the right, gain and climb the shallow overhanging groove to the tree. Swing left, move up to the final steep wall and finish as for Job For The Boys

A short variation start up the slab to gain the small ledge on the initial pitch of West Wall. A very tight line with easier ground on either side.

An excellent climb at the grade - interesting and sustained. Start to the left of the wide crack on the left side of the wall.

1. 20m. Climb up for 5m and move left to gain a small ledge. Continue up to below a large tree and move right around it to gain a large ledge and belay.

2. 35m. Scramble up little buttresses to the top of the crag.

The wide chimney crack and long ridge above gives a worthwhile and varied climb.

1. 13m. Climb the wide chimney crack. Belay above.

2. 35m. Finish up the series of aretes on the right.

The left-hand edge of the wall just to the right of West Crack is a good sustained pitch. Finish up the second pitch of West Crack.

Pull through the low overhang with difficulty and continue on small holds to the first belay of Oak Tree Wall Direct. Finish as for Oak Tree Wall Direct.

A bold but escapable pitch. Start between Eliminate G and Oak Tree Wall Direct directly below a black streak. Make a powerful pull over the low overhang onto the slab and climb boldly straight up left side of black streak, to meet the traverse of Oak Tree Wall Direct. Continue up and diagonally right on positive but spaced holds before easier climbing leads straight to a long ledge. Finish up the slab and bulge to good nut belays on flat ledges.

A worthwhile first pitch up the wall. Start by the oak tree at the point where a diagonal break meets the ground.

1. 20m. Move up onto the wall via a small overhang and climb for 7m until a traverse leftwards accesses better holds. Follow the good holds to the oak tree and belay on the terrace.

2. 20m. Walk right along the terrace before taking a slab and bulge to finish. A variation on pitch one called Lower Traverse, S 4a heads left above the overhang to finish up West Crack

Start as for Oak Tree Wall Direct, above the overlap traverse left to west crack

A good long pitch. Begin 3m to the right of the point where the diagonal break meets the ground. Move up to the overlap via the slab and pull over it. Move right and climb direct to the top.

Broken chimney on right hand side of oak tree wall. Start from the col, follow the chimney past large boulder where the terrace can be followed on the left to decend or continue over smaller slabs to the top. Decend to the left. Numerous belay opportunities, and a good begginers climb

Start at a slab to the right of the col.

1. 25m. Climb the middle of the slab, move left and climb a mossy wall and bulge to a tree and belay.

2. 15m. Move down rightwards to an arete and climb it.

Good climbing up the slabs to the left of Grassy Gully.

1. 20m. Climb up the right-hand edge of the slab to a short wall. Go left to bypass it and climb to a huge tree and belay.

2. 14m. Move up the overlapping slab and then make a stretch left before continuing to a tree and belay on a terrace. 2a) 10m. An alternative pitch at Severe standard is to climb the corner on the right. This is known as the 'The Notch'.

3. 20m. Walk left 7m down the terrace and climb a slab to finish.

Opinions on grade vary widely from HS to E1. Sustained with steady but bold climbing in places. Climb the slab without much prospect of gear until a break at 7m. From the top of the slab, pull left onto the hanging slab using a large pancake hold and move up to an awkward ledge. Pull direct through the overhang and climb a dirty wall to a thin grassy ledge just right of an oak tree. Move up and left behind the tree to an easy gully and nut belay a little higher. Scramble off right.

Alternative Second Pitch to Wall End Climb. The right corner above the oak tree belay.

The highlight of this route is the eye-catching square-cut corner/groove high on the face above the slab.

1. 4a, 21m. Climb the narrow inset slab between the main slab and Grassy Gully and make a technical move out left onto the main slab. Continue up the slab and short wall and then move right to a large tree and belay.

2. 4b, 12m. Make some bold moves up and left into the corner/groove. Climb it and exit left at its top to a tree belay on the terrace, or better a nut belay a little higher. The groove can be gained directly at 4c.

3. 20m. Walk left 7m down the terrace and climb a slab to finish as for the final pitch of Wall End Climb.

Follow a narrow slab right to a steep flake. Move up and left via a hard rockover onto the slab. Take the right side of the slab to finish at a tree.

Follow easy ground left of Hawthorne Crack before heading out leftwards at steeper ground on broken rock. A minor route on poor rock.

Follow the corner/groove to below the overhanging corner-crack. Climb the wide crack which proves to be awkward but can be well protected.

A serious lead. Start just to the right of Hawthorn Crack. Climb directly over two overlapsand pull over the third using small finger holds. Finish leftwards through a small "V" notch.

Climb up the broad arete and at 5m move right to below a slim groove in a smooth wall. Climb the groove, which can be green with lichen. The wall on the left of the groove can also be climbed at 4c.

Start as for Direct Route but climb directly up through the bulges above on small sloping holds. A bold lead.

A short and poor climb that climbs the narrow ledges just right of the smoother rock taken by Direct Route. Often dirty.

Traverse the Fifty Foot Wall below Varsity Buttress, Stays Dryish after rain. Would recommend a spotter rather than a bouldering mat.

A route with some interesting climbing and delightful positions on the final pitch. Start a small clearing at the left hand side of Fifty Foot Wall.

1. 20m 4B - From the left hand end of the wall, climb on goo but polished holds moving first rightwards and then back left to and arete. Follow this to belay on a small tree.

2. 21m - A scrappy pitch. Follow the arete above to a ledge beneath The Nose. Move left and belay in a small gully.

3. 21m 4B - Gain the obvious scarred scoop in the left wall of the nose, either directly or from the left, and move awkwardly right onto the arete. Finish up this fine position. A harder variation climbs the short steep groove just to the right, pulling over a bulge to join the original finish on the arete for a VS 4c.

Start at a pedestal of rock halfway between Varsity Buttress and Epiglottis.

1. 5b, 30m. Ascend the grey rounded tower by bold dynamic moves to a pocket and gain the mixed ground above.

2. 5b, 15m. To the right of the traverse of the top pitch of Varsity Buttress is a hanging slab, below an roof. Traverse across the exposed slab and pull over the right-hand end of the roof. Finish as for Trachea.

Start at the right-hand end of 'Fifty Foot Wall', two poor pitches leads to an exposed finish above the nose.

1. 10m. Move up the wall and then head right along a ledge and up a slab to a tree and belay.

2. 16m. Continue up vegetated walls to a ledge and tree belay.

3. 20m. Make an exposed and tenuous leftward traverse to join and finish up the rib of Epiglottis.

I climbed this route a year before this ascent and reported it as "Allergic Rhinitis" not taking away anything from Stuart and Charlie just wanting to put the record straight. Was a major wobble due to the obvious hold on the wall being somewhat friable

More continuous than other routes on this buttress. Start as for East Climb.

1. 40 feet. Move up a few feet then diagonally leftwards to ledge. Directly above this to the tree.

2. 60 feet. Climb the wall above at its left via a short groove to the overhang and then the rib above this.

3. 80 feet. Climb the slab at the left side of The Nose. Up the corner above (The Canopy) to join the finish of Taylors Crack by a strenuous swing. Finish by Varsity Buttress.

The short overhanging unprotected arete is climbed by big moves on good holds. Shortlived but very exposed!

Crack on the right hand of the wall above Crow's Nest Chimney. Now overgrown!

A steep and direct line up the centre of the buttress. Start in the middle of the Fifty Foot Wall beneath short twin cracks.

1. 12m 5A - Forceful climbing up the steep wall via the cracks gains a belay.

2. 18m. Continue more easily up the short walls above to reach a belay on the ledge beneath the overhanging section of The Nose.

3. 24m 4C. The Nose Direct. The thin overhanging crack provides a strenuous climbing onto the slab above. Follow this to a ledge and then easier climbing up the clean rib leads to the top.