Northern Ireland Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Northern Ireland 1,336 routes in Region

3 5 12 4 2 7 11 8 10 15 14 13 9 1

1 Mourne Mountains 2 Fair Head 3 Dunsevrick 4 Ramore Head 5 Runkerry 7 Ballygalley Head 8 Coolarkan Quarry 9 Cuilcagh Mountain Crags 10 Hanging Rock 11 Killynether Woods 12 Marconi's Cove 13 Monastir Sink 14 Skreen Rock 15 The Fosstra

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 54.615645, -6.492651

summary

Northern Ireland boasts some incredible sea cliffs and some lovely inland mountain climbing. A strict trad ethic is in place for all of Northern Ireland

description

Northern Ireland has two main areas, both with a very different feel. Fair head is a stunning sea cliff crag with dolerite rock and great gear, mostly crack climbing. The Mourne mountains offer a great contrast with very bold limestone in a mountain setting.

access issues

Northen Ireland is has strictly traditional ethics. Some bouldering areas exist, but no hardware is to be placed on any rock. Most crag access is through private farm land, please respect the owners.

approach

The city of Belfast allows a good base for all climbing in Northern Ireland. The Mournes can be accessed by bus, however you will need a car to get to Fair Head.

where to stay

Many hostels and hotels exist in belfast centre, or you can find inns closer to the crags.

ethic

No hardware to be placed on any rock in Northern Ireland. Strictly trad and bouldering. Please contact local climbers before setting new routes.

1.1. Mourne Mountains 204 routes in Crag

11 10 4 2 1 6 3 5 9 7 8

1 Hen Mountain 2 Eagle Rocks 3 Annalong Buttress 4 Spellack 5 Lower Cove 6 Upper Cove 7 Pigeon 8 Little Binnian. 9 Ben Crom 10 The Rockpool 11 Altnadue Quarry

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.154788, -6.038342

1.1.1. Hen Mountain 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.182029, -6.094345

1.1.2. Eagle Rocks 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.188139, -5.923264

1.1.3. Annalong Buttress 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.174777, -5.937190

1.1.4. Spellack 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.194834, -6.000106

1.1.5. Lower Cove 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.168045, -5.954313

1.1.6. Upper Cove 0 routes in Crag

1.1.7. Pigeon 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.146131, -6.071644

1.1.8. Little Binnian. 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.135661, -5.988302

1.1.9. Ben Crom 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.166035, -5.993774

1.1.10. The Rockpool 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 54.203820, -5.891455

description

Raining? Mourners wet? Need to get a little bit of rock to go with your coffee? The Rockpool is often in a dry shadow from the mountains if you are desperate for a little exercise.

approach

Heading down the promenade, park in the car park of the old swimming pool. Head to the beach.

history

Been climbed on for eons. First ascents and grades seemed to have been lost in the mists of time. Add details if you have them.

1.1.11. Altnadue Quarry 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 54.247192, -5.987274

summary

Easy access and popular sports climbing crag. Has a parking lot right outside quarry.

access issues

No access issues

where to stay

Newcastle is a nice sea side town 12min drive from the crag.

1.2. Fair Head 874 routes in Crag

8 34 31 7 6 9 5 36 35 24 10 4 23 11 12 3 18 22 32 33 14

3 Binnagapple 4 Grey Man's Path 5 White Lightning Amphitheatre 6 Bird Hide Block area 7 An Bealach Rúnda Area 8 The Terraces, 9 Rathlin Wall 10 Ballycastle Descent Gully East 11 Ballycastle Descent Gully West 12 The Prow 14 Garron Point 18 Below the Main Crag 22 Farrangandoo 23 Grey Man's Path East 24 Grey Man's Path West 31 The Fang Area 32 The Middle Crag 33 The Small Crag 34 The Terraces 35 The Wall of Prey 36 The White Lightning Amphitheatre

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 55.138418, -6.066499

1.2.1. Murlough Bay- Small Crag 0 routes in Sector

1.2.2. Gullys 3 -6 0 routes in Sector

1.2.3. Binnagapple 41 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.223019, -6.136840

descent notes

Abseil/rappel block at: (55.222663, -6.136722)

1.2.4. Grey Man's Path 0 routes in Sector

descent notes

Access via: (55.223564, -6.138384)

1.2.5. White Lightning Amphitheatre 0 routes in Sector

descent notes

Abseil/rappel block at: (55.224186, -6.141094)

1.2.6. Bird Hide Block area 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.225047, -6.145216

descent notes

Abseil/rappel block at: (55.225366, -6.145470)

1.2.7. An Bealach Rúnda Area 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.225808, -6.149232

descent notes

Abseil/rappel block at: (55.226084, -6.149199)

1.2.8. The Terraces, 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.226293, -6.152629

descent notes

Abseil/rappel block at: (55.226091, -6.153235)

1.2.9. Rathlin Wall 51 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.225007, -6.155433

descent notes

Abseil/rappel block at:

• Primal Scream - (55.224789, -6.155576)

• Equinox - (55.224512, -6.156086)

1.2.10. Ballycastle Descent Gully East 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.223906, -6.156522

1.2.11. Ballycastle Descent Gully West 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.223680, -6.157309

description

The left side of the descent gully. Many routes here have poor rock quality.

1.2.12. The Prow 40 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.223343, -6.158355

descent notes

Abseil/rappel block at: (55.223430, -6.158511)

1.2.13. Na Bolláin Rúnda 0 routes in Field

description

250 problems from Font 3 to 7C

history

Developed by Rob Hunter and Veronica Lee during COVID-19 lockdown in 2020.

1.2.14. Garron Point 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 55.053231, -5.981183

summary

A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.

The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn.

approach

There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.

The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.

Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location.

( 55.058644, -5.990733)

1.2.15. Agent Orange Area 30 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

1.2.16. Ballycastle Descent Area 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.17. Beach Ball Area 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.18. Below the Main Crag 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.222193, -6.134679

1.2.19. Cockus Maximus and Beyond 1 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.20. Cockus Maximus Area 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.21. Eat It Area 53 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

1.2.22. Farrangandoo 38 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.221013, -6.161476

1.2.23. Grey Man's Path East 28 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.223810, -6.138097

1.2.24. Grey Man's Path West 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.224103, -6.139105

1.2.25. Highlander Area 42 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.26. Middle Band Area 49 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.27. Miner's House Area 22 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.28. Murlough Bay Area 36 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.29. Outlying Areas 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.30. Shoreline Area 96 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

1.2.31. The Fang Area 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.226192, -6.151704

1.2.32. The Middle Crag 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.217715, -6.135299

1.2.33. The Small Crag 89 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.212299, -6.132809

1.2.34. The Terraces 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.226199, -6.152183

1.2.35. The Wall of Prey 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.224190, -6.156405

1.2.36. The White Lightning Amphitheatre 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.224206, -6.141003

1.2.37. Under Your Nose Area 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.3. Dunsevrick 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.238580, -6.447537

1.4. Ramore Head 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.210746, -6.662379

1.4.1. Portrush 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 55.210706, -6.662421

1.5. Runkerry 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.230705, -6.532393

1.6. The Crow's Nest 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.7. Ballygalley Head 60 routes in Crag

3 2

2 Quarry 3 Shore

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.898785, -5.843325

1.7.1. Ballygalley Head 49 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.7.2. Quarry 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 54.896792, -5.842051

1.7.3. Shore 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 54.900798, -5.844609

1.8. Coolarkan Quarry 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.337503, -7.813397

1.8.1. Entrance Rock 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

1.8.2. Side Wall Left 0 routes in Sector

1.8.3. Side wall Right 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.9. Cuilcagh Mountain Crags 11 routes in Crag

5 4 3 2 1

1 B1 2 B2 3 B3 4 B4 5 B5

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.208899, -7.835880

1.9.1. B1 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 54.207204, -7.829111

1.9.2. B2 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 54.208001, -7.831690

1.9.3. B3 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 54.208302, -7.832398

1.9.4. B4 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 54.209396, -7.837104

1.9.5. B5 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 54.212701, -7.845580

1.10. Hanging Rock 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.280089, -7.830686

1.11. Killynether Woods 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 54.576607, -5.720999

summary

Nice bouldering in the forest. Ideal for begginers.

approach

The crag is here: (54.57572, -5.72132).

Parking is available here (54.57712, -5.71824)

1.12. Marconi's Cove 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 55.212991, -6.182584

1.13. Monastir Sink 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.251612, -7.821301

1.13.1. Lower Gorge 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13.2. Main Face 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.13.3. Upstream Cliff 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

1.14. Skreen Rock 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.254175, -7.765995

1.15. The Fosstra 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 54.274697, -7.845293