Elegy Slab Mostly Trad climbing 11 routes in sector

Climb the right-hand side of the gully to the roof then step out above the overhang and climb the delicate left-hand side of the Elegy slab. Side runners lower the stress factor.

The direct over the imposing roof features the hardest mantelshelf in the world - a free hanging one-armed flip, with no footholds! Good holds lead to the lip but above there is precious little with which to make progress. If you manage the desperate gymnastics, casually saunter up Elegy to finish. Protected by side-runners (a chockstone in the crack) and RPs low down.

Strange name, good route! The right side of the Elegy slab is at the limit of friction and the grade varies from E4 to E6 depending on how high you put the side runner in The Bulger. A wire in Elegy can also be used to reduce the swing potential.

Climb the awkward crack rising from the recess and head into the groove above. A successful ascent will leave you beached and battered below the final section of Lucas Chimney. A great route for masochists!

The narrow rift in the main angle is a well-protected struggle and the leftward exit is a pig; the best advice is to try staying high. Often green early in the season or after rain, in which case it is worthy of a manky HS 4c.