FA. April 13/14 2001 by Paul Ross ,Jeff Pheasent. Some wild situations. Unrepeated as of 2010.
The Traverse uses 4 pitches of establised climbs and 5 new pitches.
P1 of Kor-Ingalls.140' 5.6.
Move belat to the right to join Arrowhead Left .Climb this pitch to the top of the Arrowhead (junction with Stardust Cowboys)100' 5.10.
The long Ed WEbster bolt ladder is followed,then up to the right to a belay overlooking North Chimney.110'.
Climb down 20' then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 North Chimney. Traverse right across the slab to the bolt rap/lower ,and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of P2 North Face route.110'.
Up ledges to the right ,then climb down 12' to a beatifully exposed narrow slab traverse line.(some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers ,nut and washers in place- bring 1/2" wrench,or use wires) Follow the slab crossing Sun,Moon and Stars climb to an anchor overlooking The West Face route.110' 5.9+ AO (with pro now in place should go all free).
Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face.
Follow a thin crack up and right to a belay around the corner. C1 5.3.
The long exposed crack is followed across theWest Face to a belay overlooking the Kor-Ingall route.80' 5.9 C1.
From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. 170' C1.
Climb Kor or rap off... Gear Two sets of Cams from Metolius 00 to #4 Friend many biners for Webster bolt ladder ,Stoppers ,and perhaps hand drill as now route is getting old without second ascent.!
P1: 5.6 chimney to big ledge; p2: 5.6 chimney until it pinches down and you have to come out into a lieback, probably 5.9 no pro unless you have large gear, bolt anchor; p3: 5.10 short pitch.
