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Approach: Follow signs for Regarden wall. The route starts at a ledge with a tree about 15ft higher than the trail, just before the start of Rewritten.

P1: Starts on the short dihedral with a pin about 20ft up, then traverse left and pull a roof. This is a bit intimidating. Traverse back rigth and belay at a tree on a ledge.

P2: Step left and up into the dihedral and then onto the face. Belay on a ledge with a big tree a bit higher.

P3: Climb under the tree and left on cracks and a corner past a ledge with loose rocks, go over the bulge and climb to a big ledge with a broken band that takes some big pro and nuts.

P4: Traverse right about 15 ft and up a dihedral, then arrive at the left side of a huge overhang with a horizontal crack. Traverse right using some pins and the crack for pro (watch for rope drag after the roof!). Then up a thin dihedral to a slanted ledge with a big loose rock. Do not use this rock for pro! It will come down! Use a crack on the floor and a pin on the left wall.

P5: Up the thin crack which you can protect with a #.3. Fun! Then step right around the corner into a wall with a bunch of pins. Either bring lots of slings or skip some of the pins. The moves are delicate here but not hard. After this section you will see a series of bolts that go straight up, this is a direct finish that goes at 5.10. The standard route goes diagonally left on a runout slab, then unto a corner with a pin. You can belay here with some crartive placements a bit higher or continue up to the summit (not recommended, lots of drag).

P6: Up the beautiful exposed arete to the summit of Tower I.

Descent: From the summit traverse right (facing the opposite way of the climb) down to a tree with a sling. Rappel from here to a trail. From there follow the trail down to to a big ledge with big trees that’s the top of Ruper. From there go up a bit through a V notch, then down to a gully with big boulders, Continue down this gully for about 100ft to the end and look for rap rings on the wall on the left. Rap down with 60m rope (barely makes it) to the top of the Upper Ramp. Up the small wall in front to a tree and then down over the ridge to a rap station. 2 single 60m rope raps to the bottom. Then follow the trail left back to the base.

Route history

First ascent: Layton Kor & Dave Dornan

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 39.93175, -105.28600

Grade citation

5.9 Assigned grade
5.10a Rock Climbing Colorado
5.9 Best of Boulder Climbs
5.9 Rock Climbing Eldorado Canyon
5.9 FranFran
5.9 Decko

Seasonality

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M
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J
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 91 from 29 ratings.

Difficulty - 5.9

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

5.9

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 9
Flash 2
Tick 19

Comment keywords

roof arete crazy traverse balancy amazing brilliant good great exciting crux challenging powerful hard fall exposed

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Levin

Date: 2020

Sharp End Publishing:
Less than an hour by car from Denver, Eldorado Canyon is home to more than 500 climbing routes. Challenge yourself on Eldo's golden cliffs with the help of this Eldorado Canyon Climbing Guide.
  • This newest edition includes an easy-to-use layout, updated maps and 80 new routes
  • It has also been renumbered and reformatted to align routes with photos

Author(s): Gerry Roach

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781641607759

Providing accurate and comprehensive info, the 4th edition of Fulcrum Colorado's Fourteeners includes standard, alternate and technical routes for all 58 peaks over 14,000 ft. in the Centennial state.

  • Updated to include up-to-date topographic maps, GPS coordinates, expanded route details and alterations to trail access
  • Multiple tables and appendices summarize features for quick reference
  • Author Gerry Roach shares his expertise from over 50 years of mountaineering
  • Includes full colour photos and 31 maps

Author(s): Matt Payne and Bob Rosebrough

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781937052775

Colorado Mountain Club:
Climbing Colorado's San Juans is a treasure trove of adventures ranging from easy scrambles for the outdoor novice to advanced, technical ascents of staggering summits for seasoned peakbaggers.
  • Chapters are organized into 13 mountain subgroups
  • Covers nearly 300 routes and 200 peaks—including 13 of Colorado's 54 fourteeners and 29 of its highest Centennial peaks
  • Includes key intel, maps, color photos and storied explanations of San Juan mountain's climbing history

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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