Maple Canyon, Sport climbing

YDS

5.0 5.2 5.4 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c 5.12a 5.12c 5.13a 5.13c 5.14a

Map

8 7 5 6 10 2 3 1 4

1 The Lower Road 2 Box Canyon 3 The Upper Road 4 Left Fork 5 Middle Fork 6 Campground 7 Right Fork 8 The Compound 10 Duplicates DO NOT USE

Directions in Google Maps

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Seasonality

Summary

Conglomerate

Probably a worldwide unique climbing spot with outstanding conglomerate rock in all inclinations and all orientations. Located in a beautiful canyon with mostly short access to the climbing.

Description

"Cobble climbing"—Maple Canyon is conglomerate rock with embedded, rounded clasts ranging in size from pebbles to boulders.

The walls have a wide range of holds from bombers to slopers, making the climbing unique and challenging. Mostly sport climbing with a very little trad.

Nearest beer is in Nephi. Showers can be found in the recreation center in Ephraim (Snow Park College).

Best climbing season is from May to fall, choose the cliff according to the temperature.

In winter there is ice climbing!

Access issues

Lower Maple Canyon is on private land, the upper part and most of the climbing is located in Manti La Sal National Forest, please respect the rules posted there.

Approach

Exit 225 on I-I5 (Nephi 100 N exit). East on UT Route 132 to Fountain Green. Right on 400 South. Six miles to Freedom Road, turn right. Right again on Maple Canyon Road. Follow the paved road to the dirt.

Where to stay

Camping is available in Maple Canyon for $8 per night. Maple lies mostly on public land within the Uinta National Forest, but some of the most popular climbs are in privately-owned Box Canyon. There is a day use fee of $3 per car in the national forest area.