Climbed what may have been the second or third ascent with George powell, the man who established the line, and Melissa Wine, the lass who helped me put up routes in Smoke Hole Canyon and Franklin.
Nice climb, really long. Be sure to bring some longer draws to belay from at the top anchors, otherwise it will be a fully hanging belay with very little movement for comfort. Also some cams (gold and red and around that size camalots) for use between the top bolt and anchors are really nice, but it could be run out, the moves aren't too hard, but at that point you have climbed a 130 feet or so of solid 5.9, so you could be a bit on the pumped side.
This climb is a horrible piece of crap, that lives up to its name of trash. Every move is awkward, every hold is big enough to hold onto, but slants the wrong way. The pro is not great. The crux up top is wierd to read and if done wrong (ie my way) is harder then 5.8 and is protected only by a green camalot that goes into a pocket, then expands completely and rattles around in it's spot. The top two lobes are only heald in buy an eighth inch of rock each, although the two bottom lobes are held in buy more, and the BD double axle is theoretically supposed to be able to take that kind of a fall, except for that thin rock on the top two lobes. The route sees no action, so the crux above that shitty camalot is a lichen jungle, I had to brush the wall off to find holds. The shuts will put a shitload of twists in your rope if you thread them directly through and toprope it as we did since it looked like rain was on the way and wanted to be able to just lower off, not have to mess around with retrieving gear from the top. This climb is horrible, and not worth doing, especially considering the quality and amount of other routes in the area.
