A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Gareth Llewellin Sick Tom karen Ron Edwards Justus Zimmerman Vanessa Wills eric risi Tom Clancey Sergey Komarov @rockrat512
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
New River Gorge / NRG
2003 in Crag
-
1.1.
South Nuttall 88 in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Toxic Jesus Wall 6 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Hyperactive 11 in Sector
- 1.1.3. The Bitch 12 in Sector
- 1.1.4. The White Wall 19 in Sector
- 1.1.5. Hueco Pillar 21 in Sector
- 1.1.6. Water Pipe Cave 10 in Sector
- 1.1.7. Zend Buttress 9 in Sector
- 1.2. Domino Point 20 in Cliff
-
1.3.
Kaymoor 119 in Cliff
- 1.3.1. Upper Kaymoor 6 in Sector
- 1.3.2. The Glory Hole 13 in Sector
- 1.3.3. First Buttress 13 in Sector
- 1.3.4. Rico Suave Buttress 19 in Sector
- 1.3.5. Fire and Ice Buttress 9 in Sector
- 1.3.6. White Wall 21 in Sector
- 1.3.7. Butcher's Branch 21 in Sector
- 1.3.8. Seven-Eleven Wall 17 in Sector
- 1.4. Sunshine Buttress 26 in Cliff
-
1.5.
Cotton Top 112 in Cliff
- 1.5.1. Cotton Top 39 in Cliff
- 1.5.2. Cotton Club 42 in Cliff
- 1.5.3. Land of the Lost 31 in Cliff
-
1.6.
Bubba City 348 in Cliff
- 1.6.1. Rubble Rock 7 in Sector
- 1.6.2. Tattoo Wall / Sandstonia Left 28 in Sector
- 1.6.3. Decameron Area / Sandstonia Right 16 in Sector
- 1.6.4. Kingfish 21 in Sector
- 1.6.5. Ameless Wall 6 in Sector
- 1.6.6. Little Head Wall 12 in Sector
- 1.6.7. Headless Wall 4 in Area
- 1.6.8. Head Wall 44 in Area
- 1.6.9. French Wall 9 in Area
- 1.6.10. Ames Wall 70 in Area
- 1.6.11. Rainbow Ledge Area 33 in Area
- 1.6.12. Central Bubba 28 in Area
- 1.6.13. Bubba Buttress 31 in Area
- 1.6.14. Beer Wall 24 in Cliff
- 1.6.15. Bimbo Buttress 15 in Area
-
1.7.
Junkyard 111 in Cliff
- 1.7.1. Cat Cliff 10 in Cliff
- 1.7.2. Dog Wall 23 in Cliff
- 1.7.3. Zealous Area 29 in Cliff
- 1.7.4. Junkyard Wall 49 in Cliff
-
1.8.
Bridge Area Crags 215 in Cliff
- 1.8.1. The Ogre 7 in Area
- 1.8.2. The Pinnacle 9 in Area
- 1.8.3. Pinnacle Wall 6 in Area
- 1.8.4. North Bridge Wall 14 in Area
- 1.8.5. First Strike Area 29 in Area
- 1.8.6. Promised Area 31 in Area
- 1.8.7. Maranatha Area 28 in Area
- 1.8.8. Bridge Buttress 60 in Area
- 1.8.9. Overlook Buttress 18 in Area
- 1.8.10. The Rostrum 13 in Area
- 1.9. Ambassador Buttress 26 in Cliff
-
1.10.
Fern Buttress 195 in Area
- 1.10.1. Armed Forces Area 8 in Area
- 1.10.2. Monolith Buttress 22 in Area
- 1.10.3. Workmen's Buttress 14 in Area
- 1.10.4. Just Send It Wall 13 in Area
- 1.10.5. Wild Seed Area 20 in Area
- 1.10.6. Thieves Area 29 in Area
- 1.10.7. Orchard Wall 11 in Area
- 1.10.8. Ritz Cracker Area 26 in Area
- 1.10.9. Central, Right 19 in Area
- 1.10.10. Star Trek Wall 15 in Area
- 1.10.11. Fern Creek Falls 15 in Sector
- 1.10.12. Fern Creek North Wall 3 in Sector
-
1.11.
Endless Wall 521 in Cliff
- 1.11.1. Fern Point Boulders 7 in Sector
- 1.11.2. Fern Point Slabs 46 in Sector
- 1.11.3. Fern Point Party Buttress 36 in Sector
- 1.11.4. Fern Cirque 15 in Sector
- 1.11.5. Idol Point 8 in Sector
- 1.11.6. Kaymoor Slabs 12 in Sector
- 1.11.7. Flashpoint Area / Walls Of Points, Upstream 22 in Sector
- 1.11.8. Diamond Point 23 in Sector
- 1.11.9. Hellbound Area 19 in Sector
- 1.11.10. Honeymooner's Area 37 in Sector
- 1.11.11. Snake Buttress 29 in Sector
- 1.11.12. Scream Seam Area 26 in Sector
- 1.11.13. Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress 20 in Sector
- 1.11.14. Fantasy Area 45 in Sector
- 1.11.15. The Undeserved Area 21 in Sector
- 1.11.16. Kline Wall 27 in Sector
- 1.11.17. Jacob's Ladder 20 in Sector
- 1.11.18. The Mungolian Wall 20 in Sector
- 1.11.19. The Block 0 in Sector
- 1.11.20. The Cirque 38 in Sector
- 1.11.21. Upper Endless 24 in Sector
- 1.11.22. Super Mario Area 26 in Sector
-
1.12.
Beauty Mountain 171 in Cliff
- 1.12.1. The Brain 21 in Area
- 1.12.2. Blocks Area 22 in Area
- 1.12.3. Burning Buttress 30 in Area
- 1.12.4. Chasin' the Wind Area 18 in Area
- 1.12.5. Thunder Buttress 20 in Area
- 1.12.6. Right Side 18 in Area
- 1.12.7. Super Mario Boulder 15 in Area
- 1.12.8. Garbage Wall / The Intestinal Wall 20 in Cliff
- 1.12.9. Ladders Area 5 in Area
- 1.12.10. Ali Bubba Cave 2 in Boulder
- 1.13. Keeneys Buttress 12 in Cliff
- 1.14. Animal Escarpments 27 in Cliff
- 1.15. Burnwood 1 in Cliff
-
1.16.
Hawk's Nest / Cotton Hill 11 in Field
-
1.16.1.
Boulder G 1 in Area
- 1.16.1.1. Boulder G 1 in Area
- 1.16.2. Boulder P 1 in Area
- 1.16.3. Boulder Q 1 in Area
- 1.16.4. Boulder T 1 in Area
- 1.16.5. Boulder X 1 in Area
- 1.16.6. Boulder AA 2 in Area
- 1.16.7. Boulder BB 2 in Area
- 1.16.8. Boulder U 1 in Area
- 1.16.9. Boulder J 1 in Area
-
1.16.1.
Boulder G 1 in Area
-
1.1.
South Nuttall 88 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. New River Gorge 2,003 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 38.058331, -81.072227
summary
The New River Gorge is one of the major climbing destinations in the USA. Endless cliffs along both sides of the river with high quality sandstone offer sport and trad climbing as well as bouldering.
description
Even though the New River Gorge (combined with the nearby crags of Summersville Lake, Meadow River and Gauley River) can be seen as one of the biggest and best climbing areas of the US it is internationally less known and generally less visited than the Red river Gorge that is just a day drive away.
Seasons are similar to the Red River Gorge with fall and spring as the best but you can climb year long and will find dry routes even when it rained.
Located in beautiful West Virginia the area offers way more than climbing, notably water sports such as rafting on the nearby rivers or just chilling at Summersville lake.
approach
The New River Gorge is located near Fayetteville in West Virginia (WV), about a 90 minute drive from the capitol Charleston. It is best reached by car as you will need a car to get to the many crags and around the area.
where to stay
There are multiple campgrounds (most notably the American Alpine Club Campground) and cabin rental options. Free camping is almost impossible (with the exception of a small campsite near Summersville dam).
history
The New River Gorge is a historic place. It was marked by coal mining until the earlier 20th century and many remnants of it may be found while hiking through the dense forests. Enjoy them on your way to the cliff or on a rest day.
1.1. South Nuttall 88 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 38.035734, -81.039090
1.1.1. Toxic Jesus Wall 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | unknown | |||||
2 | Down Under | 5.11d | ||||
3 | Jungle | 5.10d | ||||
4 | A+W Beer Route | 5.12d | ||||
5 | Twilight World | 5.10c | ||||
6 | unknown 2 |
1.1.2. Hyperactive 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Loose block | 5.10d | ||||
2 | Green Start | |||||
3 | Assholes and Elbows | 5.12c | ||||
4 | Hyperactive | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Bone Sugar | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Stoatastic Crack | 5.7 | ||||
7 | Banal Tendencies | 5.11d | ||||
8 | Kitty Has Claws | 5.6 | ||||
9 | Stoat’s Aren’t Dangerous | 5.9 | ||||
10 | Absolon-Burgher | 5.9 | ||||
11 | ★★ The Beckoning | 5.12a | 98ft |
1.1.3. The Bitch 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Bitch | 5.11b | ||||
2 | Captain Crunch | 5.6 | ||||
3 | Unnamed | 5.12+ | ||||
4 | unnamed 2 | 5.11c | ||||
5 | Stress Intolerance | 5.9 | ||||
6 | Unnamed 3 | 5.12b | ||||
7 | Unnamed 4 | 5.11c | ||||
8 | Headless Mouse Memorial | 5.10b | ||||
9 | Cranial Rectalasia | 5.10c | ||||
10 | Wasted Daze | 5.9 | ||||
11 | Five ten | 5.8 | ||||
12 | The Reckoning | 5.10c |
1.1.4. The White Wall 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unnamed | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Unnamed 2 | 5.10d | ||||
3 | Heaven Cent | 5.13a | ||||
4 | Get Shorty | 5.12a | ||||
5 | Burl Mitzvah | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Whimpering Puppies | 5.11c | ||||
7 | Inchworm | 5.10- | ||||
8 | Nut | 5.10 | ||||
9 | Corn | 5.9 | ||||
10 | Clark Route | |||||
11 | Desperately Seeking an alternative | 5.11b | ||||
12 | Desperately Seeking Susan | 5.10- | ||||
13 | Nuttall Over Your Face | 5.11d | ||||
14 | Guillotine | 5.10c | ||||
15 | Joven por Siempre | 5.13a | ||||
16 | Mossy Crack | 5.10c | ||||
17 | Flakes of Wrath | 5.12b | ||||
18 | ★★★ The New Traditionalists | 5.12b | 98ft | |||
19 | Hueco Mondo | 5.12c |
1.1.5. Hueco Pillar 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Abandonment | 5.12b | ||||
2 | Double Cracks | 5.10 | ||||
3 | Sink or swim | 5.11a | ||||
4 | Pushing Virgin Passage | 5.10 | ||||
5 | Thin Seam | A3 | ||||
6 | Temporary Insanity | 5.13- | ||||
7 | Munson Burner | 5.12c | ||||
8 | Nice corner | 5.10+ | ||||
9 | M&M | 5.12a | ||||
10 | Women in black | 5.12a | ||||
11 | Broken Vowels | 5.10c | ||||
12 | Hörst Play | 5.12b | ||||
13 | Tornado Left | 5.12c | ||||
14 | The Sword and the Stone | 5.12a | ||||
15 | Hand Salvo | 5.10c | ||||
16 | Cool corner | 5.10c | ||||
17 | Enter Stage Right | 5.11b | ||||
18 | Unnamed | 5.7 | ||||
19 | Finger Crack In White Corner | 5.12- | ||||
20 | Killing Fields | 5.13a | ||||
21 | Judgement Night | 5.12d |
1.1.6. Water Pipe Cave 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Timber | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Cat Scratch | 5.12a | ||||
3 | Munson-Marchek | 5.11d | ||||
4 | Second Wave | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Poop Ship destroyer | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Corporeal Decay | 5.11c | ||||
7 | Water Pipe Route | 5.11a | ||||
8 | Strap this one on for size | 5.10a | ||||
9 | Roxy’s Corner | 5.9 | ||||
10 | Luv Nothing | 5.12c |
1.1.7. Zend Buttress 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Old bolt | 5.10c | ||||
2 | Persistence of Memory | 5.12b | ||||
3 | The Scoop | 5.12d | ||||
4 | Evil Dick | 5.12a | ||||
5 | Rox’s Arete | 5.11b | ||||
6 | Fun hog | 5.13a | ||||
7 | Lost World | 5.12c | ||||
8 | Dave Whitlock Needs an Enema | 5.12a | ||||
9 | Converging Paths | 5.10a |
1.2. Domino Point 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.046867, -81.049652
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | unnamed | 5.10 | ||||
2 | unnamed 2 | 5.10 | ||||
3 | unnamed 3 | 5.11 | ||||
4 | Victims of Fury | 5.11c | ||||
5 | Dr. Science | 5.12 | ||||
6 | Zwei Stella | 5.11c | ||||
7 | Harmony | 5.11c | ||||
8 | Harmoneek | 5.12a | ||||
9 | Eek! | 5.11d | ||||
10 | Domino Humm | 5.10b | ||||
11 | Dominaire | 5.7 | ||||
12 | Tomb Raider | 5.13b | ||||
13 | Cover Girl | 5.12c | ||||
14 | The cover-up | 5.13b | ||||
15 | Mind Games | 5.13a | ||||
16 | Limber Girl | 5.11c | ||||
17 | Fats | 5.11d | ||||
18 | Lycra Victim | 5.11c | ||||
19 | Sausage | 5.12a | ||||
20 | Checkers | 5.12a |
1.3. Kaymoor 119 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.048195, -81.068451
description
Great climbing on great rock. Afternoon shade and lots of trees.
approach
From the AAC campground drive to US19 and take a right (South). Turn into Fayetteville and drive through on Courthouse Rd. Just outside of town turn left on Gatewood drive. Take that a few miles to Kaymoor Rd (left at the sign for Kaymoor point). Drive to the parking lot at the end. There are two approaches to the wall: Kaymoor Miners Trail will take you to Rico Suave Wall and other walls south of that. The trail branches are unmarked. There is a waterfall with water running down a rock face. Take a side trail at the waterfall to access the Hole. Go a few hundred feet down the main trail and watch for a small trail on the left up to the face. This accesses Rico Suave Wall. Butcher's Bend Trail leads down to a signed trail (Climbers Access) to access the northern walls.
Cantrell's is the closest campground to Kaymoor. They got hot showers and a little bar on site.
1.3.1. Upper Kaymoor 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Clock's On | 5.11b | 65ft | |||
2 | Nutter Butter / Ooops, It's a Trad Route | 5.10b | 50ft, 6 | |||
3 | ★ Flat Motor'n | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
4 |
Unnamed 1
Bolt line right of the corner. | 60ft, 6 | ||||
5 |
Unnamed 2
Starts left of the arete and shares the anchor with Unnamed 1. | 70ft, 9 | ||||
6 | Smell the Glove | 5.11c | 60ft |
1.3.2. The Glory Hole 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.045054, -81.065673
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Against the Grain | 5.13b | 50ft, 6 | |||
2 | ★ Mojo Hand | 5.12d | 60ft | |||
3 | ★★★ Devil Doll | 5.12d | ||||
4 | In the Flat Field | 5.13c | 65ft | |||
5 | ★★★ Massacre | 5.13a | 80ft | |||
6 | ★★★ Lactic Acid Bath | 5.12d | 75ft | |||
7 | ★★ Blood Raid | 5.13a | 60ft | |||
8 | Skull Poke Direct Finish | 5.13a | ||||
9 | ★ Skull Poke | 5.12c | 60ft | |||
10 | ★★ Yowsah | 5.12b | ||||
11 | ★ Burning Cross | 5.13a | 75ft | |||
12 | Scar Lover | 5.12c | 70ft | |||
13 | ★ Final Exit | 5.12c | 60ft |
1.3.3. First Buttress 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.046173, -81.066797
approach
From the parking hike back a bit on the road and take the approach to the miners trail (at the info signs). Hike down the trail and shortly after the first wooden stairs you will see a faint trail going up left to the obvious cliff. If you hike further down on the main trail you will hit the Kaymoor head house, in that case you went too far...
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ The Haulage | 5.12d | 65ft | |||
2 | ★★ The World's Hardest Five Twelve | 5.12a | 65ft | |||
3 | ★★ The Tantrum | 5.12d | 50ft | |||
4 | ★★ Sanctified | 5.13a | 85ft | |||
5 | ★ Tarbaby | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
6 | ★ Oh, It's You Bob | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
7 | ★★ Magnitude | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
8 | ★ The Leather Nun | 5.13a A0 | 75ft | |||
9 | ★ Wienie From the Past | 5.10c | 75ft | |||
10 | ★ The Rubber Glove Test | 5.12d | 55ft | |||
11 | 100% Real Cheese | 5.11d | 50ft | |||
12 | Attack of the Moss Clods | 5.10a | 40ft | |||
13 | ★ The Pocket Petting Zoo | 5.12c | 45ft |
1.3.4. Rico Suave Buttress 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.047127, -81.067654
approach
Same approach as for First Buttress, just continue along the base of the cliff until you see a big ledge.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Trouble in Paradise | 5.13a | 50ft, 5 | |||
2 | ★★ The Uninflatable Ewe | 5.12b | 65ft | |||
3 | ★ Totally Tammy | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
4 | Second Thoughts | 5.10b | 55ft | |||
5 | ★ Grit and Bear It | 5.11a | 55ft | |||
6 | Sand in My Crack | 5.7 | 55ft | |||
7 | ★ Not on the First Date | 5.11b | 55ft | |||
8 | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
9 | ★ Coal Miner's Tale | 5.12b | 35ft | |||
10 | ★★★ Out of the Bag | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
11 | ★★ Preparation H | 5.12a | 65ft | |||
12 | ★★ Pockets of Resistance | 5.12a | 65ft | |||
13 | Pockets of Resistance Direct Finish | 5.12d | ||||
14 | ★ Nude Brute | 5.13b | 60ft | |||
15 | ★★ The Good Old Days | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
16 | Collateral Damage | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
17 | Consumer Liability | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
18 | ★ Buried Treasure | 5.11c | 75ft, 3 | |||
19 |
Unknown Crack
Left of the mine shaft | 80ft |
1.3.5. Fire and Ice Buttress 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.048065, -81.068850
approach
You may approach this sector from both sides, from White Wall or from Rico Suave Buttress. The hike from Rico Suave is a bit of a bushwack.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Albatross | 5.13b | 35ft | |||
2 | Bovine Seduction | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
3 | ★ S.L.A.P. / Squeal Like a Pig | 5.12a | 40ft, 4 | |||
4 | ★ Carolina Crocker and the Tipple of Doom | 5.12a | 85ft | |||
5 | ★ Raiders of the Lost Crag | 5.10b | 90ft | |||
6 | ★ Malfunction Junction | 5.10c | 90ft | |||
7 | ★ Ice | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
8 | ★ Fire | 5.10c | 40ft | |||
9 | The Sound and the Slurry | 5.11d | 50ft |
1.3.6. White Wall 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.049038, -81.069957
description
A sector with some very nice climbs in the 5.12 range. Many of them stay dry in the rain. Routes are listed left to right, so you see the bolts of New Clear Potato Meltdown first.
approach
Hike down Butcher Branch and use the Climbing Access. Once at the bottom take a right (climbers left) and follow the trail along the cliff until you reach the first bolted routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ The Shining | 5.11a | 90ft | |||||
2 |
★ White Lightning
The line just left of Thunder Struck. | 5.13b | 80ft | |||||
3 |
★★★ Thunder Struck
Starts on the leaning flake with the first 2 bolts on the slab. Then follows a small crack up, out right to good pockets and to a tough finish to the anchors. | 5.12b | 65ft | |||||
4 |
★ Almost Heaven
Starts on the right face of the corner with some smaller crimps. | 5.10b | 40ft, 4 | |||||
5 | I'll Be-Gooned | 5.10b R | 75ft | |||||
6 | Ride'm Cowboy | 5.12a | 70ft | |||||
7 | The Cow Girl | 5.12c | 35ft | |||||
8 | ★ Damn the Lieback, Full Stem Ahead! | 5.10b | 75ft | |||||
9 | ★ Swinging Udders | 5.12a | 60ft | |||||
10 | ★ Boss Cocky | 5.12c | 70ft | |||||
11 | ★ Searching For Sanctuary | 5.9 | 80ft | |||||
12 | ★ Hidden Pleasures | 5.9 | 80ft | |||||
13 | Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout | 5.11b | 80ft | |||||
14 | ★★ Moon Child Posse | 5.11c | 85ft | |||||
15 | ★ Half & Half | 5.11b | 70ft, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
White FaceThe following 4 routes are on the tall light grey wall with the nice roof above it. The right 3 routes stay dry even during and after the strongest downpour. | ||||||||
17 | ★★ I Smell A-rete | 5.11c | 75ft | |||||
18 |
★★ Dining at the Alter
The leftmost of the 3 tall routes on the nice face. | 5.12a | 75ft, 7 | |||||
19 |
Shang
FA: Brian McCray | 5.12d | 80ft, 6 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Pettifogger
Starts in the corner / big crack and directly gains the face to the high first bolt. Easier terrain up to bolt 4 from where you reach into good unders. A reachy move into a slit are followed by a section that will test your finger strength. Jugs to the anchor. | 5.12c | 75ft | |||||
21 | New Clear Potato Meltdown | 5.11b | ||||||
22 | ★ J Tree Route | 5.10a | 45ft |
1.3.7. Butcher's Branch 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.050647, -81.073055
description
A very popular sector at Kaymoor that offers a lot from 5.9 to 5.13. A lot of work has been put in in building nice terraces for the popular left routes.
approach
Park at Butcher's Branch trailhead and hike down the trail until you see a sign for Climber's Access. Take this trail down some switchbacks and then head left, pass a small waterfall and soon you will see the nice cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stop Pulling My Ear | 5.10d | 65ft | |||||
2 | Arpeggio | 5.10d | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | Play it by Ear | 5.10a | 65ft | |||||
4 | Just Another Glitch | 5.6 | 70ft | |||||
5 |
★★ The Green Piece
Starts on the top terrace. | 5.10b | 70ft, 6 | |||||
6 |
★ Low Voltage
Starts with a samll crack and leads to anchors facing right. | 5.10b | 70ft | |||||
7 | ★ Ministry | 5.12b | 40ft | |||||
8 | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 5.11c | 75ft | |||||
9 | ★★ The Bicycle Club | 5.11d | 55ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 | Boing | 5.10d | 70ft | |||||
11 |
★ Springer
FA: Glenn Ritter | 5.10b | 75ft | |||||
12 | ★ The Bag | 5.10d | 75ft | |||||
13 | ★★★ Lost Souls | 5.12a | 65ft | |||||
14 | ★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes | 5.9 | 65ft | |||||
15 |
★★★ Flight of the Gumbie
Starts on the right face of the big corner and continues up the arete. FA: Gary Beil & Doug Cosby | 5.9 | 80ft, 9 | |||||
16 | ★★ Bourbon Sauce | 5.11d | 65ft | |||||
17 | ★★ Control | 5.12a | 65ft | |||||
18 | Kaos | 5.12c | 45ft | |||||
19 | ★★ Mo' Betta' Holds | 5.11d | 70ft | |||||
20 | ★★ All the Right Moves | 5.11d | 80ft | |||||
21 | ★★ Hard Core Female Thrash | 5.11c | 70ft |
1.3.8. Seven-Eleven Wall 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.052189, -81.072609
description
The name says it almost all. Great routes, lots of them in the 5.11 range.
approach
Same as for Butcher's Branch but continue along the cliff base for another 5 minutes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Squirrely Adventure | 5.10a | 75ft | |||
2 | ★ Fearless Symmetry | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
3 | ★ The Sting | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
4 | ★★ Tit Speed | 5.11c | 75ft | |||
5 | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
6 | Enigma | 5.10a | 80ft | |||
7 | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 5.11d | 90ft | |||
8 |
★★ Bimbo Shrine
Starts just right of the tall tree. | 5.11b | 80ft, 8 | |||
9 | Broken Foot | 5.8 | 80ft | |||
10 | Mr. Hollywood | 5.12a | 65ft | |||
11 | ★★★ Slash and Burn | 5.12d | 75ft | |||
12 | Buzz Kill | 5.12c | ||||
13 | ★★★ Fairtracer | 5.10d | 85ft | |||
14 | ★★ First Steps | 5.10c | ||||
15 | ★ Fuel Injector | 5.13b | ||||
16 | The Butcher Man | 5.11a | ||||
17 | ★ Ed and Bill's Excellent Adventure | 5.10a |
1.4. Sunshine Buttress 26 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.074401, -81.089283
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rimshot | 5.12a | 40ft | |||
2 | ★ South Rimjbob | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
3 | Unnamed 3 | 5.10 | 40ft | |||
4 | ★★ Path Of The Elders | 5.10 | 70ft | |||
5 | ★ Dance of the Flaming Asshole / Flaming Asshole Resistant Material | 5.9 | 60ft, 7 | |||
6 | Brash-Burgin Route | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
7 | Criminal Minds | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
8 | ★ Disco Apocalypse | 5.12c | 65ft | |||
9 | ★ Mango Boingo | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
10 | He Man Adhesive | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
11 | Head Like A Hole | 5.11c | 45ft | |||
12 | ★★ Necromancer | 5.10c | 35ft | |||
13 | ★ Popeye Syndrome | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
14 | Just Say Yo To Jugs | 5.10c | 75ft | |||
15 | ★★★ Syndicate Fool | 5.12b | 65ft | |||
16 | ★ Original Crankster | 5.13a | 55ft | |||
17 | Rich Mixture | 5.11c | 55ft | |||
18 | Unnamed 1 | 5.11a | 40ft | |||
19 | Weak Link | 5.14a | 80ft, 7 | |||
20 | ★ Unbroken Chain Variation Finish | 5.12a | 85ft | |||
21 | ★ Unbroken Chain | 5.12a | 80ft | |||
22 | Whores In Church | 5.13c | 70ft, 7 | |||
23 | Colostrum | 5.13a | 80ft, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Mother's Milk | 5.12d | 75ft | |||
25 | ★ Love Puppy | 5.11c | 70ft, 2 | |||
26 | ★ Afro-Sheener | 5.9 | 50ft |
1.5. Cotton Top 112 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 38.116228, -81.138459
1.5.1. Cotton Top 39 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hillside Strangler | 5.13a | ||||
2 | Polyester | 5.10b | ||||
3 | Cotton Balls | 5.11d | ||||
4 | Flexible Shaft | 5.10d | ||||
5 | Fuzzy Feel | 5.11c | ||||
6 | Fat Shaming | 5.12d | ||||
7 | Desperate Housewives | 5.11d | ||||
8 | Assisted Living | 5.12b | ||||
9 | Job Salvage | 5.12a | ||||
10 | Cotton The Act | 5.11d | ||||
11 | Fireman’s Belly | 5.11a | ||||
12 | Cotton Gin and Tonic | 5.7 | ||||
13 | Love Sock | 5.12a | ||||
14 | All Under Heaven | 5.12c | ||||
15 | Tainted Love | 5.12d | ||||
16 |
Intergalactic Orcas
FA: Lee Robinson, 2005 | 5.12b | 50ft, 5 | |||
17 | Asswaxer | 5.12d | ||||
18 | The Rheesist | 5.13c | ||||
19 |
★★★ Psycho Wrangler
FA: Kenny Parker, 2005 | 5.12a | ||||
20 | Wild and Wonderful | 5.11d | ||||
21 | Boll Weevil | 5.13a | ||||
22 | Tamarin | 5.12b | ||||
23 | Breaking Dawn | 5.9 | 1 | |||
24 | Final Twilight | 5.12b | ||||
25 | ★★ Cottonhead | 5.10d | 40ft | |||
26 | Bio-Slab | 5.7 | ||||
27 | Ostracized | 5.11c | ||||
28 | Giving a Nod | 5.8 R | ||||
29 | Senior Citizen | 5.8 | ||||
30 | Audiophering | 5.12a | ||||
31 | ★★ Q-Tip | 5.11b | 7 | |||
32 | ★★★ End of Innocence | 5.11c | ||||
33 |
Fingers
FA: Gene Kistler & Clint Curtis, 2005 | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
34 |
The Wurst Route at the New
FA: Matt Wurst & Chad Umbel | 5.10d | 65ft, 7 | |||
35 |
98% Cotton
FA: Ted Welser, Maria Baldissera Pacchetti & Yoichi Ishida, 2017 | 5.10b | 6 | |||
36 | Solitary Confinement | 5.10 | 3 | |||
37 | One-Inch Punch | 5.9 | ||||
38 |
★★ Cottonmouth
FA: Kurt Smith | 5.10a | 6 | |||
39 |
★★★ Incident
Roof traverse | V7 |
1.5.2. Cotton Club 42 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.5.3. Land of the Lost 31 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Through the Looking Glass | 5.10d | 80ft | |||
2 | Origin of Species | 5.10d | 90ft | |||
3 | Step Back in Time | 5.10b | 80ft, 3 | |||
4 | Sleestaks Are Ballers | 5.12a | 80ft, 1 | |||
5 | Homo Erectus | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
6 | Let Pylons Be Pylons | 5.11a | 65ft | |||
7 | First Aid Arête | 5.12c A0 | 80ft | |||
8 | Pillars of the Earth | 5.10a | 35ft | |||
9 | Arc’teryx | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
10 | Starchanger | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
11 | Ascent of a Woman | 5.11 | 80ft | |||
12 | Isle of Dogs | 5.10a | 80ft | |||
13 | Stick-o-saurus | 5.11b | 100ft | |||
14 | Crack-o-saurus | 5.10d | 100ft, 6 | |||
15 | Land of the Lost | 5.10a | 80ft, 4 | |||
16 | Flatliner | 5.11a | 80ft | |||
17 | Resilience | 5.10c | 80ft | |||
18 | Climate Change | 5.10b | 80ft | |||
19 | Tipping Point | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
20 | Denial of Reason | 5.11a | 70ft, 2 | |||
21 | Powered by Fossil Fuel | 5.9 | 70ft, 1 | |||
22 | Jolly to be Rogered | 5.10d | 65ft | |||
23 | Wendy’s All Petered Out | 5.10c | 65ft | |||
24 | Peter’s Big Crack Habbit | 5.8 | 65ft | |||
25 | Body English | 5.12b | 70ft, 4 | |||
26 | Pollywog | 5.12b | 70ft | |||
27 | Cheshire Cat | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
28 | My Dixie Wrecked | 5.12c | 60ft | |||
29 | Purple Heart | 5.11c | 65ft | |||
30 | Rising Waters | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
31 | The Last Glacier | 5.9 | 60ft |
1.6. Bubba City 348 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.095068, -81.093423
description
Although the main orientation of this crag is south and south-west many routes see shade all day when the leaves are on the trees. Route lengths vary quite a bit but you will find some longer ones that allow you to climb above the tree tops and enjoy the view (e.g. The Decameron). Sectors are sorted left to right (down to upstream).
approach
From the AAC Campground take a right towards Ames Heights Route. Turn left onto Ames Heights Route (it is called Chestnutburg Road at this point). Once you see a power line crossing the street you will see Bubba City parking on your right (the parking for the right sectors), continue 0.5km to Good Luck Cemetry Parking on your left for the left sectors.
1.6.1. Rubble Rock 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.102104, -81.095847
description
A small trad sector on the far left of Bubba City. Routes are sorted right to left as you arrive like this at the sector.
approach
Same as for Tattoo Wall but take a right once you are at the cliff base.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Frilled Dog Winkle | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
2 | ★ The Hideosity | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
3 | ★ Gift From The Mayor | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
4 | ★ Metabolic Optimizer | 5.11d | 60ft | |||
5 | ★ Thing Foot | 5.10b | 65ft | |||
6 | ★ Waka Jawaka | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
7 | ★ Mercenary Territory | 5.12a | 60ft |
1.6.2. Tattoo Wall 28 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.100944, -81.095908
approach
From Good Luck Cemetry Parking hike below the power lines on the well marked trail and follow the signs for Sandstonia to the forth power pole. Take a left into the forest (well indicated) and stay on the right trail. Hike down the switchbacks to arrive on the left end of Tattoo Wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Hardcore Female Rash | 5.10a | 50ft, 4 | |||||
2 | Celtic Sun | 5.9 | 50ft, 5 | |||||
3 | Assman | 5.8 | 45ft, 5 | |||||
4 | ★ Five-Five My Ass | 5.6 | 40ft, 4 | |||||
5 | ★ Bobby D's Bunny | 5.6 | 70ft, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Geisha Girl
Start at the obvious fist crack and step left after it to the high first bolt. Straight up to big jugs. | 5.8 | 95ft, 11 | |||||
7 |
★★ Mrs. Field's Follies
Same start as Geisha Girl but continue straight up and through a high roof to the anchor. | 5.8 | 95ft, 10 | |||||
8 | ★★ Kinesthetica | 5.10c | 90ft, 8 | |||||
9 | ★ Hep-C | 5.10d | 85ft | |||||
10 | ★★ Barb Wire | 5.11c | 85ft | |||||
11 |
★★ Badass Tattoo
Shares first 2 bolts with Barb Wire, then heads out right. Pass the roof on the left and enjoy the finish. | 5.10b | 85ft, 10 | |||||
12 | ★★★ Bikini Line | 5.11c | 80ft | |||||
13 |
★★ G-String
FA: Eric Horst, 2004 | 5.11a | 80ft, 8 | |||||
14 | ★★ Booby Prize | 5.10d | 70ft, 6 | |||||
15 | ★ Clean Shaved | 5.12b | 70ft | |||||
16 | ★★ Mike Tyson's Face | 5.12a | 65ft | |||||
17 |
One Repitition Max
Same start and anchor as Butterfly Flake but climbs left of it. | 5.12b | 40ft, 4 | |||||
18 |
★ Butterfly Flake
High first bolt. Climb to the flake and stay on it until reaching anchors. | 5.7 | 40ft, 3 | |||||
19 | ★ Plumber's Crack | 5.6 | 50ft, 1 | |||||
20 | ★★ Pure Power | 5.12c | 45ft | |||||
21 | ★★ White Henna | 5.12b | 45ft | |||||
22 |
★★ Shady Lady
The leftmost route in the alcove. | 5.7 | 60ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
23 |
★★ Lieback and Enjoy It / Layback and Enjoy It
Start on almost white rock and trend left to the obvious dihedral. Anchors just above it. | 5.10d | 60ft, 7 | |||||
24 |
★★ Weisenheimer Brainstorm
This is Layback and Enjoy It with its extension. Big holds on steep terrain lead to a high anchor. | 5.11a | 85ft, 11 | |||||
25 |
★★ The Good Book
Start on the big flake, trend left through easier terrain and than up into the open book (dihedral) and right to the anchor. Same anchor as Crescendo. | 5.10a | 60ft, 7 | |||||
26 |
★★ Crescendo
Start right just where the big leaning flake is and trend slightly left to anchors mid-way up. | 5.9 | 60ft, 6 | |||||
27 |
★★ Zeitgeist
Shares the first 6 bolts with Crescendo but passes the anchor on the right. Big holds lead to an anchor high up. FA: Eric Horst | 5.10a | 85ft, 10 | |||||
28 | ★ Lord Of The Jungle | 5.12a | 35ft |
1.6.3. Decameron Area 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.099975, -81.095827
approach
As for Tattoo Wall but continue along the base of the cliff (left when you arrive).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Slip Sliding Away | 5.4 | 25ft | |||||
2 | ★★ Cool Crack | 5.10a | 40ft | |||||
3 | ★ Climb Free or Die | 5.11a | 49ft | |||||
4 | Jaws of Life | 5.11a | 90ft, 10 | |||||
5 | ★ To Bubba Or Not To Be | 5.11a | 80ft | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★★ Witches of Bangor | 5.10c | 50ft | |||||
7 | ★★ The Decameron | 5.10b | 90ft, 9 | |||||
8 | Mixed Emotions | 5.8 | 80ft | |||||
9 | Beef Boy Field Day | 5.9 | 85ft | |||||
10 | ★ Centennial | 5.10b | 40ft | |||||
11 | ★ ISO 9000 | 5.11b | 40ft | |||||
12 | ★ Double Twouble | 5.10c | 80ft | |||||
13 | ★ Risky Business | 5.11a | 80ft | |||||
14 | Bass Ackward | 5.11c | 50ft, 5 | |||||
15 |
★★ Pay it Forward
FA: Heather Musante, E. McCallister, E. Horst, C. Hintz & Ganote | 5.9 | 50ft | |||||
16 | The Bitter End | 5.12d | 30ft, 4 |
1.6.4. Kingfish 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.098737, -81.095283
description
Mostly trad climbing with few exceptional lines.
approach
Park at Good Luck Cemetry Parking and hike in under the powerline. Take a left into the forest at the sign for Kingfish. The trail is not very well marked but leads you to the cliff. Alternatively you may hike over from Sandstonia but it is more of a bushwack.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | C.T. Crack | 5.8 | 35ft | |||||
2 | ★ Face Value | 5.11a R | 60ft | |||||
3 | ★ Daily Waste | 5.10b | 60ft | |||||
4 | Mid-Height Crisis | 5.10a | 50ft | |||||
5 | ★ Just Another Crack | 5.9 | 40ft | |||||
6 | ★ The Metamorphosis | 5.9 | 70ft | |||||
7 | ★ Ratz Holm | 5.7 | 60ft | |||||
8 | ★★ Freeblast | 5.12a | 60ft, 6 | |||||
9 | ★ Bubba's Big Adventure Direct Start | 5.11b | ||||||
10 | ★ Bubba's Big Adventure | 5.10a | 60ft | |||||
11 | ★ Café Chic | 5.10d | 60ft | |||||
12 |
★ King Of Swing Direct Finish
Straight out the roof. | 5.11b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 | ★★ King Of Swing | 5.11a | 55ft | |||||
14 | ★ Not 'Til Verdon | 5.12b | 55ft | |||||
15 | ★ Solitude Standing | 5.10b | 50ft | |||||
16 | Fortitude | 5.12c | 40ft | |||||
17 | ★ Goodbye Mr. Lizzard | 5.5 | 45ft | |||||
18 | ★ The Trial | 5.8 | 40ft | |||||
19 | Silly Little Corner | 5.6 | 40ft | |||||
20 | ★ Iron Cross | 5.12a | 40ft | |||||
21 | ★ If Frogs Had Wings | 5.10a | 25ft |
1.6.5. Ameless Wall 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Plastic Sturgeons | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
2 | ★ Face Lift | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
3 | Face Lift Direct Start | 5.8 | ||||
4 | Women Who Won't Wear Wool | 5.10b | 55ft | |||
5 | ★ Bloodtest | 5.10 | 60ft | |||
6 | ★ Men Who Love Sheep | 5.10b | 60ft |
1.6.6. Little Head Wall 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Check Your Pants | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
2 | Stalking The Wild Toad | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
3 | Helmeted Warrior Of Love | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
4 | ★ Comic Relief | 5.7 | 60ft | |||
5 | Udder Classic | 5.11b | 60ft, 6 | |||
6 | Technique Heavy Heifer | 5.11a | 60ft, 6 | |||
7 | ★ Apostrophe | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
8 | ★ Cruise Slut | 5.10a | 75ft | |||
9 | Emergency Room Exit | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
10 | ★ Crazy Ambulance Driver | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
11 | The Hunger Artist | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
12 | ★ An Affair With The Heart | 5.7 | 50ft |
1.6.7. Headless Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Pyro Vixen | 5.10a | 55ft | |||
2 | ★★ Ichabod Crane | 5.10c | 45ft | |||
3 | Mo' Verde | 5.10a | 35ft | |||
4 | ★ Gimp Verde | 5.8 | 30ft |
1.6.8. Head Wall 44 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.6.9. French Wall 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ La Pratique | 5.8 | 45ft | |||
2 | ★ Grimper de Pouvoir | 5.12b | 55ft | |||
3 | ★★★ L'Amour des Toits | 5.12b | 60ft | |||
4 | The King of Carrot Flowers | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
5 | ★★ Trois dans un Jour | 5.11d | 50ft | |||
6 | ★ Dieu est Partout | 5.11d | 45ft | |||
7 | ★★ L'Amour est Tout | 5.11c | 45ft | |||
8 | ★★ Vivre L'Amour | 5.12a | 55ft | |||
9 | ★ Newvana | 5.10d R | 55ft |
1.6.10. Ames Wall 70 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.6.11. Rainbow Ledge Area 33 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
1.6.12. Central Bubba 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Puddsucker | 5.11a R | 50ft | |||
2 | ★ The Raptilian | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
3 | ★ Little Wing | 5.10d | 50ft | |||
4 | ★ Axis Bold As Bubba | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
5 | ★★ Desperate But Not Serious | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
6 | ★ Bubba Lou | 5.12c | 60ft, 1 | |||
7 | ★ Stop The Presses Rico Suave! | 5.12c | 50ft | |||
8 | ★★ Shear Strength | 5.11b | 55ft | |||
9 | ★ Where Fools Rush In | 5.12d | 50ft | |||
10 | Pig Pen | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
11 | ★★ Into The Fire | 5.12b | 60ft | |||
12 | ★ Lean Production | 5.12c | 60ft | |||
13 | ★★ Bubbacide | 5.12b | 60ft | |||
14 | ★★★ Diamond Life | 5.13a | 60ft | |||
15 | ★ Sheer Energy | 5.11a | 65ft | |||
16 | ★ Bedtime For Bubba | 5.9 | 65ft | |||
17 | ★★ Hydroman | 5.11c | 65ft | |||
18 | ★ Happy Campers | 5.11a | 65ft | |||
19 | ★ Brown Out | 5.11d | 65ft | |||
20 | ★★ Golden Escalator | 5.11a | 65ft | |||
21 | Bubba Bath | 5.9 | 65ft | |||
22 | ★★★ The Raging Tiger | 5.10d | 65ft, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Jesus Wept | 5.12d | 65ft | |||
24 | ★★★ The Cutting Edge | 5.12b | 65ft | |||
25 | ★ It's Brutal Bubba | 5.12c | 65ft | |||
26 | ★ The Mind's Eye | 5.13a | 55ft | |||
27 | ★ Rattle And Hum | 5.11a | 55ft | |||
28 | ★ Mr.Pudd's Wild Ride | 5.12a | 45ft, 1 |
1.6.13. Bubba Buttress 31 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
1.6.14. Beer Wall 24 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Beginner's Face | 5.6 | 55ft | |||
2 | ★ Ounce of Cure | 5.11d | 55ft | |||
3 | ★★ A Pound Of Prevention | 5.8 | 55ft | |||
4 | Thank God I'm Bubbafied! | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
5 | ★ Leave It To Bubba | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
6 | ★★ Fred Sandstone Flake | 5.9 | 65ft | |||
7 | ★★ Werewolf | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
8 | Doo-Wah Woof | 5.4 | 65ft | |||
9 |
★ Exhaust Pipe
FA: Mark Pell & Jon Regelbrugge, 1987 | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
10 | ★ Creamy | 5.8 | 65ft | |||
11 |
★★ Daisy Cutter
FA: Eric McCallister & Eric Hörst, 2001 | 5.7 | 60ft, 5 | |||
12 | ★ My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
13 |
Near Beer
FA: Charles Ganote, Cindy Hintz, Eric Horst & Eric McCallister | 5.6 | 40ft | |||
14 |
★ Gilded Otter
FA: Eric Horst & Eric McCallister | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
15 | Micro Brew | 5.5 | 50ft | |||
16 |
★ Spatenweiss
FA: Eric Horst | 5.11d | 55ft | |||
17 |
★★ St. Pauli Girl
FA: Eric McCallister & Eric Horst | 5.10c | 55ft | |||
18 | ★★ Bubbaweiser | 5.10d | 60ft | |||
19 |
★ Cerveza Verde
FA: Eric Horst, Stewart Green & Martha Morris | 5.9 | 45ft | |||
20 |
★★★ Celebration Ale
FA: Eric Horst | 5.11a | ||||
21 | Cirrhosis of the Leader | 5.11d | 30ft | |||
22 | Delirium Tremors | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
23 | Eating Bimbo Pie | 5.7 | 50ft, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Beer Wench | 5.8 | 50ft |
1.6.15. Bimbo Buttress 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Peanut Bubba And Jam | 5.8 | 40ft | |||
2 | ★★ The Ikon Of Control | 5.10c | 40ft, 1 | |||
3 | ★ Learning Curve | 5.8 | 45ft | |||
4 | The Wong Way | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
5 | ★★ Bugerschnatz | 5.10d | 45ft | |||
6 | The Wang Way | 5.6 | 40ft | |||
7 | ★★ Crank To Power | 5.11d | 40ft | |||
8 | ★★ Bubbalissima | 5.11c | 40ft | |||
9 | ★ The Power Line | 5.11c | 45ft | |||
10 | ★ Airwaves | 5.10b | 45ft | |||
11 | ★ The Innocence Mission | 5.12c R | 50ft | |||
12 | It Comes In Spurts | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
13 | ★ Taming The Shrewd | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
14 | ★ Direct Aretection | 5.10a | 35ft | |||
15 | ★ Gunpowder | 5.12a R | 20ft |
1.7. Junkyard 111 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.084261, -81.080343
1.7.1. Cat Cliff 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | New Flavor | 5.12d | 50ft | |||
2 | Amarillo Dawn | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
3 | The Good Life | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
4 | Neuva Vida | 5.11b | 60ft | |||
5 | Kentucky Whore | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
6 | Australian Whore | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
7 | Labrador Reliever | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
8 | Unknown | 60ft, 2 | ||||
9 | Morning Glory | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
10 | More Bum, More Fun | 5.10d | 60ft |
1.7.2. Dog Wall 23 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mongrels | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
2 | Underdog | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
3 | Doggy Style | 5.11c R | 50ft | |||
4 | Bitch in Heat | 5.11a R | 40ft | |||
5 | Dingo | 5.10d | 40ft | |||
6 | A Dog Always Returns to its Vomit | 5.10c R | 40ft | |||
7 | Call of the Wild | 5.11c | 40ft | |||
8 | Dog Day Afternoon | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
9 | Point the Bone | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
10 | Hangdog | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
11 | Put Bull Terror | 5.10b | 80ft | |||
12 | Puppy Love | 5.10d | 80ft | |||
13 | Nasty Poodle Chew | 5.6 | 70ft | |||
14 | Brother from Another Mother | 5.11b | 60ft | |||
15 | Born Under a Bad Smell | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
16 | Black Dog | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
17 | One-Eyed Viper | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
18 | Short Change | 5.11d | 60ft | |||
19 | Dreamtime | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
20 | Husk Shucker | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
21 | Themetime | 5.6 | 60ft | |||
22 | Poodle With a Mohawk | 5.1 | 60ft | |||
23 | Unknown | 30ft |
1.7.3. Zealous Area 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Spoon Fed | 5.9 R | 50ft | |||
2 | ★ Commuter Flight | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
3 | Deviated Septum Direct Deviation | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
4 | ★ Deviated Septum | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
5 | My Proving Ground | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
6 | ★ Chased By Spiders To The Left | 5.9 R | 50ft | |||
7 | ★ Chasing Spiders To The Right | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
8 | ★ Never Alone | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
9 | ★ Brother Sun | 5.12b | 70ft | |||
10 | I Just Eight | 5.8 | 40ft | |||
11 | Poison Ivy | 5.10c R | 40ft | |||
12 | ★ Pilots Of Bekaa | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
13 | ★ Faith Crack | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
14 | Childbirth Linkup | 5.11b R | 70ft | |||
15 | ★ Squids In Bondage | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
16 | ★ Childbirth | 5.11b | ||||
17 | ★ Lap Child | 5.12a | 4 | |||
18 | ★ Name It And Claim It | 5.11a | ||||
19 | Aimless Wanderers | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
20 | ★ Brown Dirt Cowboy | 5.10c | 70ft | |||
21 | ★ Emotional Barbecue | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
22 | Enemy Line | 5.10c X | 60ft | |||
23 | ★ Five-Eight | 5.11b | 60ft, 1 | |||
24 | Modern Lovers | 5.11c | ||||
25 | Recreation | 5.9 R | 60ft | |||
26 | Suck Face | 5.11a R | ||||
27 | ★★ Zealous | 5.10d | ||||
28 | Kansas Shitty | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
29 | Redemption | 5.11c | 60ft |
1.7.4. Junkyard Wall 49 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Beware Of Eurodog | 5.11d | 65ft | |||
2 | Anomalous Propagation | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
3 | Walk In The Park | 5.8 | 55ft | |||
4 | ★ Churning In The Huecos | 5.10d | 60ft, 2 | |||
5 | Fitzcarraldo | 5.13b R | 60ft, 1 | |||
6 | Anxiety Neurosis | 5.11b R - X | 1 | |||
7 | Who Knows? | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
8 | ★ V-Slot (Ride A Rock Horse) | 5.9 | 55ft | |||
9 |
★★★ Stuck In Another Dimension
Steep bulging crack! Wild climbing on perfect rock. Take a big cam for the start (#4 C4 or equivalent) | 5.11a | 75ft | |||
10 |
★★ Scavenger
The wall right of Stuck in Another dimension. Apparently has just enough gear... FA: Pat Goodman, 2010 | 5.13c R | 69ft | |||
11 | ★ Rhododenema | 5.10a | 75ft | |||
12 |
Mr. Ed
Wide corner crack | 5.8 | 65ft | |||
13 | ★ Slip Trip | 5.11c R | 70ft, 1 | |||
14 | ★★ The Entertainer | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
15 | ★★ Realignment | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
16 | ★ Mystery Dance | 5.12c | 65ft | |||
17 | ★★ Reachers Of Habit | 5.11b | 50ft | |||
18 | ★ The Contortionist | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
19 | Cal N' Hobbes | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
20 | The Distortionist | 5.6 | 50ft | |||
21 | ★ Bubba Meets Jesus | 5.11a | 55ft | |||
22 | ★★ Team Jesus | 5.10b | 65ft | |||
23 | Reaching New Heights | 5.11b | ||||
24 | ★★ New River Gunks | 5.7 | 65ft | |||
25 | ★ Junk Yard Dog | 5.11b | 65ft, 1 | |||
26 | Rusty Stud | 5.12b R | 50ft | |||
27 | ★★ Frigidator | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
28 | ★ Andropov's Cold | 5.11c | 30ft | |||
29 | Keep It Tight...Variation Finish | 5.10a | ||||
30 | ★ Keep It Tight But Don't Give Me Aids | 5.6 | ||||
31 | Jumpin' Jack Flash | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
32 |
★★ New Yosemite / Climbing Under the Influence
5.9 hand crack to bolt anchor. | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
33 |
★ Yew Nosemite
Start up New Yosemite but break right after 15' and go straight up the face past a bolt. | 5.12b | 60ft, 1 | |||
34 | ★ Just Say No | 5.11a | 75ft | |||
35 | Enteruptus | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
36 | ★ Scott's Turf Builder | 5.10b | ||||
37 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
38 | Dragon De Swanze | 5.11a | 70ft, 1 | |||
39 | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
40 | Rock Rash | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
41 | Whales In Drag | 5.10a | 50ft | |||
42 | Princess Diana | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
43 | ★ Danger In Paradise | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
44 | ★ Crack Sap | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
45 | ★ The Hornet | 5.9 | ||||
46 | ★ Lapping The Sap | 5.10a | 85ft | |||
47 | ★ Nine Lives | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
48 | Ann's Revenge | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
49 | Long Reach | 5.9 | 40ft |
1.8. Bridge Area Crags 215 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.074344, -81.078910
1.8.1. The Ogre 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Food For Thought | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Leechate | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
3 | Roadcutt Manor | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
4 | ★ The Best Little Road Cut Out Of Texas | 5.12c | 50ft | |||
5 | This One Is For Vicki | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
6 | Rubbin’ Is Racin’ | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
7 | Lucky Pierre At L.A.S.W.A. | 5.8 | 30ft |
1.8.2. The Pinnacle 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Spamling | 5.7 | ||||
2 | Spams Across America | 5.6 | 40ft | |||
3 | Diagnosis Positive | 5.12b | 100ft | |||
4 | ★ Destination Unknown | 5.11d | 3 | |||
5 | ★ The Texas Bolt Massacre | 5.12a | 80ft, 3 | |||
6 | The Reverse Traverse | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
7 | ★ The Vertex | 5.10d R | 100ft | |||
8 | ★ Afternoon Delight | 5.5 R | 100ft | |||
9 | Pinnacle Flats | 5.9 | 100ft |
1.8.3. Pinnacle Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Jams Across America | 5.10b | 30ft | |||
2 | ★ Mr. Peanut Head | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
3 | ★★ Fat Cat | 5.13a | 35ft | |||
4 | ★ Porcupine Crack | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
5 | Ode To Stoat | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
6 | Meto Power | 5.10c | 35ft |
1.8.4. North Bridge Wall 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Gloom Index | 5.10a | 50ft | |||
2 | The Artful Dreamer | 5.9 | 55ft | |||
3 | Chattasuga Choo-Choo | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
4 | The Gospel Trek | 5.5 | ||||
5 | Gaye Belayed | 5.7 | 30ft | |||
6 | Also | 5.6 | 50ft | |||
7 | Orange Blossom Special | 5.6 | ||||
8 | ★ The Egg Man | 5.11b | 70ft, 1 | |||
9 | ★★ Ook Ook Kachook | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
10 | ★ The Walrus | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
11 | ★ Hey Woody, Hinckley's Not The Center Of The Universe Any More! | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
12 | Midway | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
13 | ★★ Dr. Rosenbud's Nose | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
14 | Share The Faith | 5.9 | 50ft |
1.8.5. First Strike Area 29 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Impaled | 5.10b | 30ft | |||
2 | ★ Needful Things | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
3 | ★ Dark Hollow | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
4 | ★ Joey's Face | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
5 | Romper Room | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
6 | ★ Throw In The Rack | 5.7 | 40ft | |||
7 | Meth-Iso-Cyinate | 5.10a | 30ft | |||
8 | Magnum Gropus | 5.10d | 35ft | |||
9 | Sphagnum Dopus | 5.8 | 35ft | |||
10 | Bhopal West | 5.10a | 50ft | |||
11 | Charlie Don’t Surf | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
12 | ★ Slave To The Past | 5.11c | 30ft | |||
13 | Le Brief | 5.10c | 25ft | |||
14 | ★ First Strike | 5.10a | 50ft | |||
15 | ★ Big Al's | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
16 | ★ The Hopfenperle Special | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
17 | ★ One Life At A Time, Please | 5.10d R | 60ft | |||
18 | Lichen Illusion | 5.11d | 1 | |||
19 | ★ Burning Bungee | 5.11c | 60ft, 1 | |||
20 | Diver Down | 5.10d | ||||
21 | ★ Midnight Moonlight | 5.7 | 65ft | |||
22 | ★ Akron Motor Speedway | 5.12a | 65ft | |||
23 | ★ Rockin' Robyn | 5.11d | 70ft, 3 | |||
24 | ★ Milk Run | 5.9 | 65ft | |||
25 | ★ Hairy Canary | 5.11c | 65ft | |||
26 | ★ The Big Cheese | 5.10b | 45ft | |||
27 | ★ Quantum Meruit | 5.4 | 55ft | |||
28 | Dairy Area | 5.4 | 50ft | |||
29 | Til The Cows Come Home | 5.10b | 40ft |
1.8.6. Promised Area 31 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Ducks Unlimited | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
2 | Big Mac Attack | 5.11a | 60ft, 1 | |||
3 | ★ Pancake Ledge | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
4 | ★ Jimmy's Swagger | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
5 | ★ Salvation Salesman | 5.11d | 60ft, 1 | |||
6 | Strongly Stationary | 5.12a | 50ft, 2 | |||
7 | ★ Welcome To Huecool | 5.12a R - X | 50ft, 1 | |||
8 | ★ Synaptic Lapse | 5.10a | 30ft | |||
9 | Sultans Of Swing | 5.12a R | 40ft | |||
10 | ★ Esse Crack | 5.10c | 40ft | |||
11 | ★ Eyes Of The Mind | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
12 | ★ Mind Shaft | 5.12b | 50ft, 5 | |||
13 | Chinese Style | 5.8 R | 55ft | |||
14 | Butter Face | 5.12b | 60ft | |||
15 | ★★ Happy Head | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
16 | ★ Highlander | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
17 | ★ Promised Direct Start | 5.10b | ||||
18 | ★★ Promised | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
19 | ★ My Wife Is A Dog | 5.10b | 60ft, 1 | |||
20 | Kielbasa Vinyasa | 5.10b | 60ft, 1 | |||
21 | ★ Reunification | 5.12b | 35ft, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Berlin Wall | 5.10b | 40ft | |||
23 | Lollipop | 5.7 | 40ft | |||
24 | ★★ Gemini Crack, Left | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
25 | ★★ Gemini Crack, Right | 5.10a | 50ft | |||
26 | Turan Route | 5.11c | 50ft, 5 | |||
27 | The Third Dimension | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
28 | Catatonic Conflicts | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
29 | Blackberry Blossom | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
30 | ★ The Last Tango | 5.11b | 55ft | |||
31 | ★ Fast Asleep In A Dangerous World | 5.12a | 40ft, 2 |
1.8.7. Maranatha Area 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unnamed 1 | S | 50ft | |||
2 | Junk Food | 5.10b X | 20ft | |||
3 | ★★ The Force | 5.11c | 40ft | |||
4 | Square Pegs | 5.11 | 40ft | |||
5 | In Tribute To Skid | 5.7 | 40ft | |||
6 | ★ Kiss My Fingers | 5.12c | 40ft | |||
7 | Sundowner | 5.10b | 40ft | |||
8 | Mossy Groove | 5.6 | 40ft | |||
9 | Beginners Only | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
10 | The Freeman Route | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
11 | ★ Min-Arete | 5.11a | 70ft, 2 | |||
12 | ★ Bye Bye Bow Bow | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
13 | ★★ Maranatha | 5.10c | 65ft | |||
14 | ★ Little Head Logic | 5.11d | 75ft, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Ledge Lips | 5.11a | 75ft, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Are You Asparagus? | 5.11a | 75ft, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Where Real Men Dare | 5.8 | 55ft | |||
18 | Not Bosched Up | 5.11a | 65ft | |||
19 | Can't Find My Way Home | 5.11a | 65ft | |||
20 | ★★ Agent Orange | 5.11d | 65ft | |||
21 | ★★ Your Mother | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
22 | Trick Or Treat | 5.11a | 45ft | |||
23 | ★ Dynamite Crack | 5.10d | 50ft | |||
24 | ★ Sepultura | 5.11d | 60ft | |||
25 | ★ Two-Edged Sword | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
26 | ★ The Verge | 5.12b | 60ft | |||
27 | Desperados Under The Eaves | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
28 | Pipe Dreams | 5.10c | 45ft |
1.8.8. Bridge Buttress 60 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
1.8.9. Overlook Buttress 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cheap Thrill | 5.7 | 40ft | |||
2 | Barefoot Alley | 5.8 | 40ft | |||
3 | Space Dumping | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
4 | ★ The Sandman | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
5 | House Of Cards | 5.10a | 70ft, 1 | |||
6 | C.M.Q. | 5.12a | 50ft, 5 | |||
7 | ★ The Hall Effect | 5.8 | 80ft | |||
8 | The Incredible Overhanging Wall | 5.10d | 30ft | |||
9 | Tree In Your Face | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
10 | ★ Up To Disneyland | 5.7 | 75ft | |||
11 | ★ Rocky Roads | 5.8 | 55ft | |||
12 | ★ Out To Lunch | 5.8 | 40ft | |||
13 | ★ Gunky Heaven | 5.6 | 60ft | |||
14 | ★ Under A Blood Red Sky | 5.10d | 55ft, 2 | |||
15 | Ledge City | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
16 | Be Bold And Be Strong | 5.11b | 60ft | |||
17 | A Solitary Hang | 5.6 | 35ft | |||
18 | The Butler | 5.9 | 35ft |
1.8.10. The Rostrum 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Crack 'N Clutch | 5.7 | 40ft | |||
2 | Beer Belly Roof | 5.9 | 55ft | |||
3 | Mortimer | 5.11a | 40ft | |||
4 | ★ Kiss Of The Spider Woman | 5.10d | 40ft | |||
5 | The Mankey Monkey | 5.9 | 45ft | |||
6 | ★ Penalty For Early Withdrawal | 5.11a | 40ft | |||
7 | ★★ Mounting Madness | 5.8 R | 60ft | |||
8 | ★ You Snooze, You Lose | 5.10d R - X | 60ft | |||
9 | ★ Rapid View | 5.6 R | 60ft | |||
10 | ★ Boltus Prohibitus | 5.10c | 55ft | |||
11 | ★ Race Amoung The Ruins | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
12 | ★ Palladium | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
13 | Work Boots | 5.11a | 60ft |
1.9. Ambassador Buttress 26 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Wienie Roast | 5.9 | 35ft | |||
2 | ★ Success Through Deception | 5.12c | 40ft | |||
3 | The Happy Hooker | 5.11a R | 60ft | |||
4 | ★ Consenting Clips | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
5 | ★ Pleasure Principles | 5.11a | 55ft, 3 | |||
6 | Liddlebiddanuthin' | 5.10b X | 50ft | |||
7 | ★ The Geneva Convention | 5.11d R | 60ft | |||
8 | The Glitch | 5.4 | 50ft | |||
9 | Unnamed 4 | 5.11b | 50ft, 2 | |||
10 | ★ Reefer Derby | 5.12c | 60ft | |||
11 | ★ Chasing Rainbows | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
12 | ★ Auld Lang Syne | 5.12b R | 60ft | |||
13 | ★ Enter The Dragon | 5.12b | 45ft, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Dragon In Your Dreams | 5.11c | 45ft, 3 | |||
15 | ★ The Bolting Blowfish | 5.12b | 45ft, 3 | |||
16 | ★ The Spineless Perpetrator | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
17 | Unnamed 3 | 5.10d | 35ft | |||
18 | Unnamed 2 | 5.10d | 35ft | |||
19 | Fear of Dreads | 5.11d | 70ft, 1 | |||
20 | ★★ Clumsy Club Crack | 5.10b | 75ft, 1 | |||
21 | ★ New-Veau Reach | 5.11c | 75ft, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ The Underdiddled | 5.10c | 75ft, 1 | |||
23 | Lunar Tunes | 5.10a | 75ft | |||
24 | ★ Kidspeak | 5.10a | 40ft | |||
25 | Comfortably Numb | 5.10d R | 40ft | |||
26 | ★ Nookie Monster | 5.9 | 40ft |
1.10. Fern Buttress 195 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.061841, -81.067333
1.10.1. Armed Forces Area 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Cow In A China Shop | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
2 | ★ The No-Zone | 5.10a | 60ft | |||
3 | ★ Naked Potatoes | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
4 | ★ Ron Kauk Gets A Perm | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
5 | ★ Arm Forces | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
6 | Dead Beat Club | 5.11d | 50ft | |||
7 | ★ Mega-Jug | 5.11b | 40ft | |||
8 | October Surprise | 5.10d | 40ft |
1.10.2. Monolith Buttress 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Dog Day Afternoon | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
2 | ★ Teleconnections | 5.11d | 70ft | |||
3 | ★ Power Talk | 5.12b | 70ft | |||
4 | ★ Wings And A Prayer | 5.12a | 70ft, 2 | |||
5 | ★ Dixie Chicken | 5.11c | 70ft | |||
6 | First Person | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
7 | ★ Close To The Edge | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
8 | ★ Spiderwalk | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
9 | ★ Hummingbird | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
10 | ★ My Stinking Brain | 5.13a | 60ft | |||
11 |
New Beginnings
FFA: Stephen Meinhold, 2006 | 5.13d | 60ft, 7 | |||
12 | ★ The Monolith | 5.11d C1 | 60ft, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Air Apparent | 5.12c | 50ft | |||
14 | ★ Over The Edge | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
15 | Fried Mush | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
16 | Chew Electric Death You Snarling Cur | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
17 | Mcstumpy's Sandwich Crack | 5.6 | 60ft | |||
18 | Devil's Arete | 5.10a R | 65ft | |||
19 | ★ The Puddy System | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
20 | Fun and Grovel | 5.7 | 80ft | |||
21 | ★ The Yert Yak Crack | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
22 | Wondering | 5.10c | 70ft |
1.10.3. Workmen's Buttress 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Preservation Of The Wildlife | 5.11d | 100ft | |||
2 | ★ Two Bag Face | 5.9 R | 80ft, 1 | |||
3 | ★ The Lichen In Me | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
4 | ★ Bosnian Vacation | 5.12d | 85ft | |||
5 | ★ Wall Drug | 5.12c | 75ft | |||
6 | ★ Mr Workman's Crack | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
7 | ★ Workman's Comp | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
8 | ★ Mrs. Workman's Corner | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
9 | ★ Climb-Max | 5.11d | 70ft | |||
10 | ★ Graceland | 5.11a | 80ft | |||
11 | ★ Toss That Beat In The Garbage Can | 5.10d | 80ft | |||
12 | Toss That Meat in the Garbage Hole | 75ft | ||||
13 | Hole In The Wall | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
14 | Beat Me Daddy, Eight To The Bar | 5.8 | 40ft |
1.10.4. Just Send It Wall 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Freddie Slack | 5.11a | 40ft | |||
2 | ★ Mud And Guts | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
3 |
★★★ Just Send It
FFA: Eric Hörst, 1992 | 5.13b | 70ft, 7 | |||
4 | Shampoo Finish | 5.12d R | 4 | |||
5 | ★★ Welcome To Conditioning | 5.13a | 60ft | |||
6 | ★ Stab Me, I Don't Matter | 5.13a | 60ft | |||
7 | Grundleberry | 5.10 | 60ft | |||
8 | ★ Hold The Dog | 5.11d | 45ft | |||
9 | As The World Hearns | 5.10+ | 60ft | |||
10 | ★ Party Out Of Bounds | 5.11d | 45ft | |||
11 | ★ The Udderling | 5.12a | 40ft | |||
12 | Toxic Waste | 5.7 | 80ft | |||
13 | One Of My Many Smells | 5.9 | 80ft |
1.10.5. Wild Seed Area 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Quickie In The Molars | 5.12a | 80ft, 2, 4 | |||
2 | ★ Quickie In The Molars Direct Finish | 5.12a | 40ft | |||
3 | Muscle Belly | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
4 | ★★ Wild Seed | 5.11b | 75ft | |||
5 | Lies And Propaganda | 5.9 | 80ft | |||
6 | ★★ Sportin' Fool (Gonad The Barbarian) | 5.11d | 50ft | |||
7 | ★ Foutre La Doight | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
8 | ★ No Kiss, No Lubrication | 5.11d | 50ft | |||
9 | Chameleon | 5.10d | 50ft | |||
10 | ★ Salvador Dali's Car | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
11 | ★ Old And In The Way | 5.11b | 50ft, 2 | |||
12 | ★★ Fly Girls | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
13 | ★ Doer, Not A Critic | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
14 | Witness The Wetness | 5.11d R | 55ft | |||
15 | Aquatic Ecstasy | 5.11b | 40ft | |||
16 | Far Fletched | 5.9 | 45ft | |||
17 | ★ Arbor Day | 5.12a | 60ft | |||
18 | ★★ Fragile Egosystem | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
19 | Stoat Goes To Joshua Tree And Tears A Flapper On Baby Apes | 5.7 | 60ft | |||
20 | Rum Cacao | 5.9 | 60ft |
1.10.6. Thieves Area 29 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Use Your Power | 5.12d | 60ft | |||
2 | Lose Your Flower | 5.12a | 65ft, 5 | |||
3 | ★ The Brawn Wall | 5.12b | 85ft | |||
4 | The Brawn Wall Direct Start (Project) | project | ||||
5 | ★ The Brawn Wall Direct Finish | 5.10c | 45ft | |||
6 | ★ Pop Top | 5.11d | 40ft | |||
7 | ★ Eye Of Zen | 5.10b | 65ft | |||
8 | ★ Rolling Rock | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
9 | ★ Bolt Rookies | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
10 | ★ Prepare To Succeed | 5.11d | 65ft | |||
11 | ★ Baptism By Fire | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
12 | ★ Mean, Mean Girl | 5.11d | 60ft | |||
13 | ★ Two Tone Arrete | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
14 | ★ Emerald Dance | 5.9 | 90ft | |||
15 | ★ Cold Turkey | 5.11c | ||||
16 | ★★★ Thieves In The Temple | 5.12b | 80ft, 8 | |||
17 | Project 1 (In Progress) | project | ||||
18 | ★ Grand Larceny | 5.11c | 60ft | |||
19 | Presto | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
20 | ★ Wounded In Action | 5.12c | 40ft | |||
21 | Abandoned Project | project | ||||
22 | ★ The Fourgasm | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
23 | ★ Bushong | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
24 | ★ Tongue-In-Groove | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
25 | ★ Sometimes A Great Notion | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
26 | ★ Portly Gentleman's Route | 5.12c | 60ft | |||
27 | ★ Beowulf | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
28 | ★ Sun Viking | 5.11d | 80ft | |||
29 | ★ Start-Thor | 5.12d |
1.10.7. Orchard Wall 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Loki | 5.12b | 65ft | |||
2 | ★ White Out | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
3 | ★ God Of Fire | 5.11c | 75ft | |||
4 | ★ Bisect | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
5 | ★★ Anal Clenching Adventures | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
6 | ★★★ Triple Treat | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
7 | ★★★ Springboard | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
8 | ★ Lewd Operator | 5.10c | 70ft | |||
9 | The Awesome Flossom Corner | 5.7 | 60ft | |||
10 | ★ The Mighty Stoat | 5.11c | 40ft | |||
11 | ★ Shiny Faces | 5.10d | 60ft |
1.10.8. Ritz Cracker Area 26 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stoats Escape | 5.4 | 40ft | |||
2 | Contemplation | 5.10a | 40ft | |||
3 | ★ Morning Dew | 5.12b | 60ft | |||
4 | ★ New Tricks For The Old Dog | 5.10 | 60ft | |||
5 | Sandy's Sweet Bottom | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
6 | ★ Anticipation | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
7 | ★ Intimidation | 5.10a | 75ft | |||
8 | ★ Breach Birth | 5.10c | 90ft | |||
9 | ★ C-Section | 5.11c | 70ft | |||
10 | ★ Constant Velocity | 5.10b | 80ft | |||
11 | ★ Attack Of Eddie Muenster | 5.12a | 80ft | |||
12 | ★ The Monster | 5.11a | 80ft | |||
13 | Cowabunga | 5.6 | 55ft | |||
14 | Look, Me Awesome! | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
15 | ★ Wampus Cat Blues | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
16 | A Wild Hair | 5.6 | 75ft | |||
17 | ★ Fire And Waste | 5.10b | ||||
18 | ★★ Cresenta | 5.10a | 85ft | |||
19 | ★ The Scoop | 5.11a | 85ft | |||
20 | ★ The Weight | 5.11d | 80ft | |||
21 | Beech, Beeech, Beeeech! | 5.6 | 45ft | |||
22 | ★ Surge Complex | 5.11a | 85ft | |||
23 | ★ Sweet Dreams | 5.11b | 80ft | |||
24 | ★ Pleasure And Pain | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
25 | ★ Sand M | 5.9 | 65ft | |||
26 | ★ Berserker | 5.11c | 65ft |
1.10.9. Central, Right 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Hysteria | 5.8 | 85ft | |||
2 | ★ Mellow Drama | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
3 | Furry Nerd | 5.10c | 70ft | |||
4 | ★ Wishbone Left | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
5 | Wishbone Right | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
6 | ★ Total Sex Package | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
7 | Give Me The Strap On (Project) | project | ||||
8 | ★ No Static At All | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
9 | ★ Parsimony | 5.10c | 70ft | |||
10 | ★ Really Gotta Boogie | 5.11d | 70ft | |||
11 | ★ Rumors Of A War | 5.12d | 40ft | |||
12 | ★ The Undulator | 5.7 | 80ft | |||
13 | ★ Optical Illusion | 5.11c | 40ft | |||
14 | ★ Grand Space | 5.11b | 100ft | |||
15 | ★ Nervous Bachelor | 5.11d | 85ft | |||
16 | ★ Bill And Ken's Excellent Adventure | 5.11b | 85ft | |||
17 | ★★ Goofer's Retreat | 5.9 | 90ft | |||
18 | ★★ Ritz Cracker | 5.9 | 85ft | |||
19 | ★ Jacuzzi Bop | 5.11a | 75ft |
1.10.10. Star Trek Wall 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 38.059338, -81.063991
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Night Moves
FA: Rick Fairtrace & Scott Jones | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
2 | Daughter Of Dracula | 5.10b | 50ft | |||
3 | ★ Subsidized Development | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
4 | Holey Trinity | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
5 | ★ Share The Earth | 5.11d | 60ft | |||
6 | ★ No Sign Of Intelligent Life | 5.7 | 60ft | |||
7 | ★ Wrinkles And A Gold Card | 5.8 | 65ft | |||
8 | Transporter Crack | 5.6 | 40ft | |||
9 | ★ Three Dimensional Chess | 5.8 | 45ft | |||
10 | ★ Tractor Beam | 5.8 | 35ft | |||
11 | Impulse Power | 5.3 | 35ft | |||
12 | ★ Beam Me Up, Scotty | 5.6 | 35ft | |||
13 | ★★ Crack Of The Klingons | 5.6 | 35ft | |||
14 | ★ The Wrath Of Khan | 5.8 | 55ft | |||
15 | Panama (Project) | project |
1.10.11. Fern Creek Falls 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Water Power | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
2 | ★ Fern Creek Direct | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
3 | ★★★ Fall Line | 5.12b | 65ft | |||
4 | ★ The Land Before Time | 5.12d | 55ft | |||
5 | ★ Colors | 5.13a | 55ft | |||
6 | ★ Roar Or The Crowd | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
7 | ★ Levitation | 5.10d | 75ft | |||
8 | ★ Smoke On The Water | 5.8 | 75ft | |||
9 | ★ Blues Brothers | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
10 | ★ Lethargical Lion | 5.8 | 75ft | |||
11 | Rap-N-Go | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
12 | ★ Stop The Presses, Mr. Thompson | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
13 | ★ Common Ground | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
14 | ★ Just Another Obscurity | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
15 | Night Moves | 5.9 | 50ft |
1.10.12. Fern Creek North Wall 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Seeing Stars | 5.11d | 60ft | |||
2 | Poochie Gets A Face Lift | 5.12b | 35ft | |||
3 | ★ Vulcan Mind Funk | 5.12b | 50ft |
1.11. Endless Wall 521 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 38.055514, -81.051081
description
The name says it all, it is endless. Almost 5km of cliff with excellent rock quality, loads of orientations, trad, mixed and sport routes.
approach
Due to its size, Endless Wall has multiple access points. It depends on your sector of choice which approach is the best. Parkings are located along Lansing Road (Fern Creek Parking, Nuttall Parking) and Beauty Mountain Road (Nuttall Cemetry / Beauty Mountain Parking). Please refer to the sectors for approach details.
1.11.1. Fern Point Boulders 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.056381, -81.063747
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Standing Up In The Big Tent | 5.12c | 35ft | |||
2 | Unnamed 1 | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
3 | ★ Whip It | 5.12b | 70ft | |||
4 | ★ Salvador Raleigh's Blow Up Dolly | 5.12c | 70ft | |||
5 | ★ The Ribbon | 5.11d | 70ft | |||
6 | Fidget | 5.11c | 70ft | |||
7 | ★ Express Yourself | 5.12d | 60ft |
1.11.2. Fern Point Slabs 46 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 38.055912, -81.063284
1.11.3. Fern Point Party Buttress 36 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.055517, -81.062203
1.11.4. Fern Cirque 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.055064, -81.061405
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Hooked On Bionics | 5.11d | 30ft | |||
2 | ★ Idols Of The Tribe | 5.13a | 85ft | |||
3 | ★ Life's A Bitch And Then You Climb | 5.10b | 75ft | |||
4 | ★ Fist Fodder | 5.9 | 80ft | |||
5 | ★ Aquarian Conspiracy | 5.10c | 80ft | |||
6 | ★ Guns Of Sassoun | 5.11d | 80ft | |||
7 | ★ Jane | 5.9 | 80ft | |||
8 | Grin Reaper | 5.10b X | 75ft | |||
9 | Tarzan | 5.10a | 50ft | |||
10 | Video Waves | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
11 | ★ Golden Olympics | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
12 | ★ Soft Torture | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
13 | ★ Radford Rockers | 5.11d | 65ft | |||
14 | Dead Animal Crackers | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
15 | Reed's Ladder | 5.4 | 50ft |
1.11.5. Idol Point 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.054448, -81.061431
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unnamed 1 | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
2 | ★ French Tickler | 5.12c | 80ft | |||
3 | ★ The Saint | 5.12d | 65ft | |||
4 | ★★★ The Spectre | 5.11c | 90ft | |||
5 | ★★ Idol Point Arete | 5.12a | 80ft | |||
6 | ★★★ Riding The Crest Of The Wave | 5.9 | 140ft | |||
7 | Meniscus Burning | 5.11c | 40ft, 3 | |||
8 | ★★ Command Performance | 5.11a | 130ft |
1.11.6. Kaymoor Slabs 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.054017, -81.060852
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ What Will People Think? | 5.12d | 80ft | |||
2 | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 5.11d | 110ft | |||
3 |
★★ Fool Effect
Starts on the small ledge behind a tall pine tree. No anchor! FA: Tom Clancey | 5.9 | 130ft, 13 | |||
4 | ★ Paralleling | 5.10d R | 110ft | |||
5 | ★★ A Date With Disappointment | 5.12b | 85ft | |||
6 | ★ New Wave | 5.11a R | 110ft | |||
7 | ★★ The Upheaval | 5.9 | 85ft | |||
8 | Newd Scientist | 5.4 | 90ft | |||
9 | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 5.10b | 75ft | |||
10 | Que's Jook Joint | 5.11b | ||||
11 |
★ Totally-clipse
Right hand end of the slabs at higher level | 5.8 | 75ft, 5 | |||
12 |
★ Rats Alley
Corner chimney to offwidth with DBB at right end of slabs | 75ft |
1.11.7. Flashpoint Area 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.053537, -81.060126
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ The Americans, Baby | 5.10c X | 85ft | |||
2 | Project 1 (In Progress) | 100ft | ||||
3 | Ambience | 5.8 | 85ft | |||
4 | ★ Stop And I'll Shoot | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
5 | ★ Lisa's Lunge Time | 5.12c | 80ft | |||
6 | Jazz Rock Confusion | 5.13d | 70ft, 9 | |||
7 |
★★ Flash Point
Same start as Jazz Rock Confusion but directly heads out right above the roof on good holds. Meanders up through slopy ledges and pockets to finish right around the arete on a tricky slab. | 5.12a | 90ft, 12 | |||
8 | Devil Man | 5.10c | 80ft, 1 | |||
9 | ★★ Euro Nation | 5.11a | 75ft | |||
10 | ★ The Stratowienie | 5.11a R | 75ft | |||
11 | ★ The Ed Sullivan Show | 5.11c | 75ft | |||
12 | April Fools | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
13 | ★ Thilly Puddy | 5.10d | 50ft | |||
14 | ★ Shudder Bugger | 5.12c | 65ft | |||
15 | Flying Sideways | 5.9 | 80ft | |||
16 | ★ Stroke Victim | 5.8 | ||||
17 | ★ Thought Crime | 5.7 | 50ft | |||
18 | ★ The Nutcrafter Suite | 5.10c | 65ft | |||
19 | ★ The Ex-Puddition | 5.11c | 65ft | |||
20 | ★ The Diving Swan | 5.11a | 75ft | |||
21 | Bodyphobic | 5.11c | 85ft | |||
22 | ★ This Sport Needs An Enema | 5.12c | 80ft |
1.11.8. Diamond Point 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.053299, -81.059473
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Carcus Tunnel Syndrome | 5.8 | 85ft | |||
2 |
★★ Homer Erectus
Start on the left side of the west-facing wall of Diamond Point. Move right at bolt 8 to make it easier. | 5.11c | 85ft, 9 | |||
3 | Homer Erectus Alternate | 5.12a | 85ft | |||
4 | ★★ The Weatherman's Thumb | 5.13a | 85ft | |||
5 | ★ Zygomatic | 5.11c | 85ft | |||
6 | ★★★ Remission | 5.10b | 85ft | |||
7 | ★ Durometer 64 | 5.10b | 85ft | |||
8 | ★★ Can I Do It 'Til I Need Glasses? | 5.10c | 95ft | |||
9 | ★★★ Straight Up And Stiff | 5.10d | 90ft | |||
10 | ★★ Fine Motor Control | 5.12a | 85ft | |||
11 | ★★★ Raging Waters | 5.11a | 90ft | |||
12 | ★ Crack A Smile | 5.10a | 90ft | |||
13 |
★★ Strike a Scowl
Scramble up on the big block / ledge in the corner and reach the first bolt from there. Climb the slabby flake. | 5.10b | 75ft, 8 | |||
14 | ★ Supersymmetry | 5.7 | 75ft | |||
15 | Palingenesis | 5.12c | 95ft | |||
16 | ★ Ovine Seduction | 5.11a | 100ft | |||
17 | ★ How Hard Is That Thang? | 5.12c | 85ft | |||
18 | ★ Stupendid Animation | 5.11c | 100ft | |||
19 | ★★★ The Gift Of Grace | 5.12b | 75ft | |||
20 |
★★★ Leave It To Jesus
All time classic crack up orange and black streaked wall. They don't come any better than this. The start is a bit fierce to protect. | 5.11d | 110ft | |||
21 | ★★ Leave It To Jesus Direct Finish | 5.11d | 95ft | |||
22 | ★★ The Dark Side | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
23 | ★ Strange Duck | 5.11c | 90ft |
1.11.9. Hellbound Area 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.053653, -81.059040
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Luck Of The Draw | 5.11d | 80ft | |||
2 | ★ Hog Wollor | 5.10d | 90ft | |||
3 | Project 1 | 80ft | ||||
4 | Pulling on Porcelain | 5.13a | 100ft, 13 | |||
5 | ★ Maximum Leader | 5.12c | 85ft | |||
6 | ★ Clean Sweep | 5.12c | 85ft | |||
7 | ★ Hell Bound For Glory | 5.12a | 85ft | |||
8 | The Frictional Heat Experiment | 5.10a | 100ft | |||
9 | Dust Bowl | 5.9/10a R | 95ft | |||
10 | ★ Glass Onion | 5.10b | 75ft, 5 | |||
11 | Voyeur Variation | 5.10a | ||||
12 | ★ Voyeur's Hand | 5.12c | 85ft | |||
13 | ★ Nestle Krunch Roof / Nestle Crunch Roof | 5.10b/c | 100ft, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Nestle Krunch Roof Direct Start | 5.10a | ||||
15 | Love Thy Neighbour | 5.11c | 100ft, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Can't Find My Guernsey Cow | 5.12b | 95ft | |||
17 | ★ The Height Of Flashin' | 5.11b/c | 95ft | |||
18 | ★ Brass Monkey | 5.10a/b R | 85ft | |||
19 | ★ Struck By Lichening | 5.11d | 90ft |
1.11.10. Honeymooner's Area 37 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.054114, -81.058115
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Southern Hospitality | 5.10a | 90ft | |||
2 | ★ Open Mouths | 5.11a | 85ft | |||
3 | ★ Static Line | 5.11d | 85ft, 3 | |||
4 | ★ Harlequin | 5.12b | 85ft, 8 | |||
5 | ★ Oblivion | 5.12d | 80ft, 6 | |||
6 | ★ Libertine | 5.12d/13a | 80ft, 7 | |||
7 | ★★ Sacrilege | 5.12b | 85ft, 8 | |||
8 | ★★★ Jesus and Tequila | 5.12b | 85ft, 9 | |||
9 | ★ Get Thee Behind Me Satan | 5.13a/b | 95ft, 11 | |||
10 | ★ Satanic Verses | 5.13c | 85ft, 11 | |||
11 | ★ Noelle | 5.12c R | 90ft, 3 | |||
12 | ★★★ Quinsana Plus | 5.13a | 90ft, 10 | |||
13 | ★ Crimes Of Fashion | 5.10c | 100ft | |||
14 | ★ Rainy Day Route | 5.12b | 65ft, 8 | |||
15 | Big Boss Man | 5.12d | 60ft, 7 | |||
16 | ★ The Rabbit Almost Died | 5.12a | 90ft, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ Lunar Debris | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
18 | ★★ Crescent Moon | 5.7 | 70ft | |||
19 | ★ Double Feature | 5.11d | 80ft, 7 | |||
20 | ★ The Bonemaster Gear Fling | 5.11c | 80ft, 8 | |||
21 | Sooner Or Ladder | 5.11b | 45ft, 5 | |||
22 | ★ The Jackie Gleeson Flake | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
23 | ★★ Muckraker | 5.11a | 80ft | |||
24 | Perserverence | 5.10b | 75ft | |||
25 | ★ Wire Train | 5.10c | 80ft | |||
26 | Wire Train Variation | 5.12b | ||||
27 | Stink Bug | 5.12c | 70ft | |||
28 | ★ Free Flow | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
29 | ★ Channel Zero | 5.11c | 75ft | |||
30 | ★ Motor King | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
31 | I Feel Like A Wog | 5.12b | 70ft | |||
32 | Double Flat | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
33 | Walking On The Moon | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
34 | Moonraker | 5.7 | 70ft | |||
35 | ★ Off Like A Prom Dress | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
36 | Bouldergiest | 5.12b | 40ft | |||
37 | ★ I Advanced Masked | 5.12b | 40ft |
1.11.11. Snake Buttress 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.054584, -81.057196
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Harvest | 5.12a | 65ft | |||
2 | ★ Sugar Bubbas | 5.11a | 65ft | |||
3 | ★ Mississippi Burning | 5.12b | 70ft | |||
4 | ★★ Dial 911 | 5.13a | 70ft | |||
5 | ★★★ The Racist | 5.13b | 85ft | |||
6 | ★ Favourite Challenge | 5.11d | 85ft | |||
7 | Eddie's Face | 5.11c | 90ft, 2 | |||
8 | ★ Snake Patrol | 5.10c | 110ft | |||
9 | ★ Razor Sharp | 5.11b | 90ft | |||
10 | ★★ Discombobulated | 5.11a | 85ft | |||
11 | ★★★ The Legacy | 5.11b | 90ft, 10 | |||
12 | ★ The Legacy Alternate | 5.11d | 90ft | |||
13 | ★ Stolen Kisses | 5.9 | 100ft | |||
14 | Adam Ant | 5.11a | 85ft | |||
15 | A ketchum and Umbel Day | 5.10d R | 100ft | |||
16 | ★ Rock Lobster | 5.10c | 100ft | |||
17 | ★★★ Bullet The New Sky | 5.12b | 85ft | |||
18 | Hoax of Bullets | 5.12c | 80ft, 7 | |||
19 | Hoax of Clocks | 5.14a | 80ft, 8 | |||
20 | ★ S.T.A.N.C. | 5.10b | 100ft | |||
21 | ★ Bloodshot | 5.13a | 85ft | |||
22 | ★★ The Pocket Route / Black Rider | 5.13a | 85ft, 9 | |||
23 | ★ Silent But Deadly | 5.13a | 85ft | |||
24 | Smelt It, Dealt It | 5.13a | 90ft, 9 | |||
25 |
★ Vulcan Block
Stick clip and pull up | 5.12c A0 | 90ft, 9 | |||
26 | ★ Shovel Jerk | 5.13b | 85ft | |||
27 | ★ Dissonance | 5.13a | 80ft | |||
28 | ★★ New World Order / Masoko Tango | 5.12a | 85ft, 7 | |||
29 | Doug Reed Warm-Up | 5.11c | 50ft, 5 |
1.11.12. Scream Seam Area 26 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.055072, -81.056275
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | New Speedway Boogie | 5.10d | 85ft | |||
2 | ★ Gang Bang | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
3 | ★ Do The Funky Evan | 5.10 | 85ft | |||
4 | ★ Martini Face | 5.12c | 80ft | |||
5 | ★ Translate Slowly | 5.10c | 75ft | |||
6 | Translate Slowly Direct Start | 5.11a | ||||
7 | ★ What A Jam | 5.9 | 65ft | |||
8 | ★ Lobster In Cleavage Probe | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
9 | Pink Eye | 5.8 | 65ft | |||
10 | ★ Night Gallery | 5.10b | 75ft | |||
11 | ★ Sneak Preview | 5.10b | 80ft | |||
12 | Ray-Hauls Redemption Round | 5.9 | ||||
13 | Drug Virgin | 5.11d | 40ft | |||
14 | ★ Cosmic Thing | 5.13b | 40ft | |||
15 | ★ Scream Seam | 5.11a | 35ft | |||
16 | ★ Two Fish Limit | 5.12b | 60ft | |||
17 | Monster In My Pants | 5.10a | 75ft | |||
18 | The Separator | 5.10a | 80ft | |||
19 | Copralalia | 5.11c | 70ft, 2 | |||
20 | ★ In Real Life | 5.12a | 40ft | |||
21 | Amigo Bandito | 5.10a | 75ft | |||
22 | ★ Leave Me Bee | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
23 | ★ The Wasted Armenian | 5.11c | 95ft | |||
24 | ★ Sufficiently Wasted | 5.11a | 95ft | |||
25 | ★ The Wasted Weeblewobble | 5.10b | 95ft | |||
26 | ★ Black Noise | 5.9 | 95ft |
1.11.13. Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.055529, -81.055342
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Technarete | 5.10a | 100ft | |||
2 | ★ Arms Control | 5.11b | 90ft | |||
3 | ★★ Recondite | 5.11b | 90ft | |||
4 | ★ Power Source | 5.12b | 75ft | |||
5 | Pride Of Cucamunga | 5.10d | 75ft | |||
6 | ★ Idiotsyncracies | 5.11b | 80ft | |||
7 | ★★ The Diddler | 5.10a | 85ft | |||
8 | ★★ The Grafenberg Crack | 5.9 | 85ft | |||
9 | ★ Dr. Ruth's Variation | 5.8 | ||||
10 | ★ Between Coming And Going | 5.10c | 80ft | |||
11 | ★ Insertum Outcome | 5.10b | 85ft | |||
12 | ★ Giant Steps | 5.11d | 70ft | |||
13 | ★ Crystal Vision | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
14 | Bad Head Of Lettuce | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
15 | Closer To The Heart | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
16 | ★★ The Growing Hole | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
17 | Celluloid Vipers | 5.9 | 75ft | |||
18 | ★ Titan's Dice | 5.13b | 65ft | |||
19 | ★ Permission Granted | 5.10a | 90ft | |||
20 | ★ Permission Granted Direct Finish | 5.10b | 65ft |
1.11.14. Fantasy Area 45 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.055999, -81.053619
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Virgin Thing | 5.12a | 85ft | |||
2 | ★★ The Stick | 5.11d | 95ft | |||
3 | ★★★ Blackhappy | 5.12b | 85ft, 9 | |||
4 | ★★★ Black And Tan | 5.10a | 85ft | |||
5 | ★★★ Aesthetica | 5.11c | 85ft, 8 | |||
6 | ★ Erotica | 5.12a | 85ft | |||
7 | ★ Doce Doe | 5.9 | 100ft | |||
8 | ★ Veil Of Addiction | 5.10d | 75ft | |||
9 | ★ Men Under Water | 5.10a | 80ft | |||
10 | Pink Pooka Party | 5.9 | 100ft | |||
11 | Fantasy Face | 5.12a | 80ft, 6 | |||
12 | ★★★ Fantasy | 5.8 | 130ft | |||
13 | ★ Mr. Fantasy | 5.11c | 45ft | |||
14 | ★ Fantasy Direct Finish | 5.10b | 130ft | |||
15 | ★ Dreams Of White Toilet Paper | 5.11a | 95ft | |||
16 | ★ Super Face | 5.11c | 100ft | |||
17 | 42 | 5.11b | 100ft | |||
18 | ★ Progresso | 5.11d | 95ft | |||
19 | ★ Vidassana | 5.11d | 50ft | |||
20 | ★ Wu Wei | 5.12c | 40ft | |||
21 | ★ The Orgasmatron | 5.10d | 80ft | |||
22 | ★★ Riddle | 5.10c | 80ft, 8 | |||
23 | ★ Two Step Arete | 5.8 | 90ft | |||
24 | ★ The One Step | 5.8 | 90ft | |||
25 | Steppin' Out | 5.7 | 100ft | |||
26 | ★ Statisical Reminder | 5.9 | 90ft | |||
27 | ★ Gut Feeling | 5.7 | 90ft | |||
28 | ★ Liddlebiddariddum | 5.10d | 80ft | |||
29 | ★ Jet Cap | 5.12a | 80ft | |||
30 | The Beach | 5.10b | ||||
31 | ★ The Tide | 5.8 | 100ft | |||
32 | Sequential Butt Pirates / Back With My Chyme | 5.12a | 60ft, 6 | |||
33 | ★ Four Star | 5.11b | 100ft | |||
34 | Unnamed 1 | 5.11b | 100ft | |||
35 | 20 Dollar Route | 5.12c | 100ft | |||
36 | Embrace the Suck | 5.10d | 100ft | |||
37 | ★ Flirting With Apollo Reed | 5.12a | 65ft | |||
38 | Flirting With VMC | 5.9 | 90ft | |||
39 |
Old Duffer's Route
Route may have been retro-bolted, originally done all trad. FFA: Alex Karczewski, 1985 | 5.12b | 40ft | |||
40 | Project 1 | |||||
41 | ★ Rebel Spade | 5.12b | 80ft | |||
42 | ★ New Fangled Dangle | 5.11a | 80ft | |||
43 | ★ Sparks | 5.12c | 75ft, 8 | |||
44 | ★ Caption | 5.12c | 90ft | |||
45 | ★ The Erogenous Zone | 5.10c | 90ft |
1.11.15. The Undeserved Area 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.056414, -81.051983
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Back With My Kind | 5.12a | 80ft, 4 | |||
2 | Brisket Back | 5.12b R | 90ft | |||
3 | ★★★ Mig Squadron | 5.11a | 82ft | |||
4 | ★★★ The Undeserved | 5.10c | 90ft | |||
5 | Young Whippersnapper's Route | 5.11b | 100ft | |||
6 | ★★ Tatoo | 5.12a | 70ft | |||
7 | ★ No Mas | 5.12b | 80ft | |||
8 | Roy's Lament Direct Start | 5.9 | ||||
9 | ★★ Roy's Lament | 5.9 | 90ft | |||
10 | ★ Roy's Lament Direct Finish | 5.10b | ||||
11 | ★★ Celibate Mallard | 5.10c | 90ft | |||
12 | Somethin' Fierce | 5.11b | 45ft | |||
13 | Tuna Fish Roof | 5.11d | 90ft | |||
14 | ★ Hot Tuna | 5.12b | 80ft | |||
15 | ★ Never Cry Tuna | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
16 | ★ Give A Boy A Gun | 5.11c | 90ft | |||
17 | ★ Brain Death | 5.10c | 80ft | |||
18 | ★ Fun With Jello | 5.11a | ||||
19 | ★ Wad Cutter | 5.12b | 80ft | |||
20 | Alcan Highway | 5.6 | 60ft | |||
21 | Double Negative | 5.9 | 60ft |
1.11.16. Kline Wall 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.056728, -81.050533
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dab Hand | 5.10b | 40ft | |||||
2 | ★ Purity Made | 5.7 | 45ft | |||||
3 | ★ Bubbas At Arapiles | 5.12b | 50ft | |||||
4 | ★ Oyster Cracker | 5.10a | 75ft | |||||
5 | ★ Man-O-War | 5.12b | 75ft | |||||
6 | ★ Kline The Billy Goat | 5.11b | 75ft | |||||
7 | New Reed Route | 5.11b | 80ft, 7 | |||||
8 | ★ Lying Egyptian | 5.10c | 75ft | |||||
9 |
★ Imperial Strut
Use the tree to start | 5.10a A0 | 75ft | |||||
10 | The Golden Bullet | 5.13d | ||||||
11 | Manilla Vanure | 5.13a | 70ft, 6 | |||||
12 | ★ Golden Years | 5.12a | 80ft | |||||
13 | ★ Gin And Bulls | 5.12d | 80ft | |||||
14 | ★ Pearl River | 5.12b | 70ft | |||||
15 | ★ River Heart | 5.11d | 70ft | |||||
16 | ★ The Centurion | 5.11c | 75ft | |||||
17 | ★ Android | 5.10d | 75ft | |||||
18 | ★ Suspended Sentence | 5.12c | 50ft | |||||
19 | ★ Unnamed 1 | 5.13a | 60ft | |||||
20 | Project 1 | |||||||
Central Endless RappelThese routes are climbers right of the rapell. | ||||||||
22 | ★ The Good Book | 5.9 | 70ft | |||||
23 | Vympel | 5.14a | 70ft, 8 | |||||
24 | ★ Motivation | 5.10d | 65ft | |||||
25 | Cheez Boys | 5.12a | 55ft | |||||
26 | Endangered Species | 5.10d | 70ft | |||||
27 | Skin the Thief | 5.10a | 60ft, 7 | |||||
28 | One-fingered Pickpocket | 5.10c | 60ft, 5 |
1.11.17. Jacob's Ladder 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.056615, -81.048423
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jacob's Ladder
Traditional Climb Out | 5.0 | 60ft | |||
2 | ★ Save The Human Race | 5.5 | ||||
3 | ★★ Just Forget It | 5.12b | 35ft | |||
4 | ★ Senility | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
5 | ★ Captain Chaos | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
6 | ★ Route 66 | 5.11b R | 60ft | |||
7 | ★★ Stubble | 5.12c | 50ft | |||
8 | ★ Almost Heaven | 5.10c | 70ft | |||
9 | ★ Churning In The Butter | 5.11b | 90ft | |||
10 | The Alpha And The Omega | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
11 | ★ Baby Rage | 5.12b | 30ft | |||
12 | Mechanical Bull | 5.13a | 80ft, 8 | |||
13 | ★ Fat Back | 5.12c | 70ft | |||
14 | Unnamed 1 | 5.12b | 50ft, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Shotgun | 5.12b | 50ft | |||
16 | ★ Fearful Symmetry | 5.12b | 85ft | |||
17 | The Gram Delusion | 5.12d | 90ft, 9 | |||
18 | ★ Solitaire | 5.10d | 90ft | |||
19 | Unnamed | 5.12a | 80ft, 8 | |||
20 | ★ Petrified Pink Puke | 5.10c | 50ft |
1.11.18. The Mungolian Wall 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.056468, -81.046066
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Big Gulp | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
2 | ★ Caffeine Free | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
3 | ★ Nutrasweet | 5.10a | 45ft | |||
4 | Weenie Roast | 5.8 | 30ft | |||
5 | ★ High Octane | 5.10c | 70ft | |||
6 | ★ Blue Angel | 5.10d | 35ft, 4 | |||
7 | ★ Blind Sight | 5.10b | 40ft | |||
8 | ★ Blood Donors | 5.10d | 40ft | |||
9 | ★ Sunshine Daydream | 5.10a | 90ft | |||
10 | French Roast | 5.12c | 70ft, 7 | |||
11 | ★ Espresso Yourself | 5.12a | 80ft | |||
12 | ★ Overkill | 5.13a | 75ft | |||
13 | ★ Future Proof | 5.12b | ||||
14 | ★ Pigtail | 5.12c | 70ft | |||
15 | ★ Slide Rule | 5.12b | 75ft | |||
16 | Stalactite Route | 5.12c | 80ft, 8 | |||
17 | ★ Welcome To Mungolia | 5.11b | ||||
18 | Unnamed | 5.12a | 60ft, 7 | |||
19 | Spree | 5.11a | 60ft, 6 | |||
20 | Topiary | 5.12b | 60ft, 7 |
1.11.19. The Block 0 routes in Sector
1.11.20. The Cirque 38 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.056007, -81.043452
1.11.21. Upper Endless 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 38.055077, -81.039558
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ High And Lively | 5.10b | 90ft | |||
2 | ★ Out Of Hand | 5.11a | 30ft | |||
3 | ★ Wedgie | 5.10b | 70ft | |||
4 | ★ Fish Out Of Water | 5.12b | 35ft | |||
5 | ★ Even Cowgirls Get The Blues | 5.11b | 35ft | |||
6 | ★ State Of The Artz | 5.11c | 70ft | |||
7 | Bat Cave | 5.8 | 75ft | |||
8 |
Unnamed
Start on Skiggle Von Wiggle, stay left. | 5.10a | 80ft | |||
9 | ★ Skiggle Von Wiggle | 5.10b | 80ft | |||
10 | ★ Fiesta Grande | 5.12c | 80ft | |||
11 | ★ Basket Case | 5.11b | 45ft | |||
12 | Garden Weasel | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
13 | ★ Lactic Weekend | 5.11c | 90ft | |||
14 | ★ Spurtin' Fer Certain | 5.12a | 90ft | |||
15 | ★ Barbecued Babies / Zeno's Route | 5.12b | 85ft | |||
16 | Project (In Progress) | 35ft, 3 | ||||
17 | ★ Sheena Is A Punk Rocker | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
18 | ★ The Zee Crack | 5.10a | 35ft | |||
19 | ★ Sweet Potatoe | 5.9 | 65ft | |||
20 | ★ Tip Terror | 5.12c | 35ft | |||
21 | Long John Jam | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
22 | ★ Unnamed Left Facing Flake | 5.8 | 35ft | |||
23 | ★ Unnamed Behind Tree | 5.9 | 35ft | |||
24 |
★ Unknown
Roof Crack | 40ft |
1.11.22. Super Mario Area 26 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 38.055244, -81.035876
description
Despite its orientation many routes see shade by the trees or are shaded by one of the many corners and blocks of this area. Many very easy routes and hard ones and a short access.
approach
Park at the Beauty Mountain Parking (just next to Nuttall Cemetry). Hike in the left road, pass the barrier and hike down the trail (the trail leads to an old coal mine). Soon you will see the first routes on your right.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Ramrod | 5.12c | 45ft | |||||
2 | Unnamed Chimney | 5.9 | ||||||
3 | Quake | 5.13b | 60ft, 7 | |||||
4 | ★ White Powderete | 5.11a | 80ft | |||||
5 | ★ She's Too Fat For Me | 5.10d | 65ft, 1 | |||||
6 | ★ I Don't Want Her | 5.11a | 65ft | |||||
7 | ★ Jack The Tripper | 5.12a | 50ft | |||||
8 |
★ Unnamed Face
Start just left of the chimney (and right of the big detached flake). Trend left and straight up. | 5.10c | 56ft, 4 | |||||
9 | ★ The Bunny Hop Of Death | 5.11b R | 60ft | |||||
10 | Pack and Boots | 5.5 | 80ft | |||||
11 | New Route | 5.12b | 50ft, 4 | |||||
12 | Chance Meeting | 5.11b | 50ft, 3 | |||||
Super Mario BoulderThe next 3 routes are on the front side of the big boulder. | ||||||||
14 | Donkey Kong | 5.13a | 40ft, 4 | |||||
15 | ★★ Super Mario | 5.13a | 40ft | |||||
16 | ★★ European Vacation | 5.12b | 35ft | |||||
East Facing WallThese routes are on the East facing wall (left of Super Mario Boulder). | ||||||||
18 |
Zelda
Shares first 2 bolts with Tubin' Dudes, then left. | 5.13a | 50ft, 5 | |||||
19 | ★ Tubin' Dudes | 5.13b | 40ft | |||||
20 | Leap of Faith | 5.13c | 50ft, 6 | |||||
Behind Super Mario BoulderThese routes are on the wall behind Super Mario Boulder. | ||||||||
22 | Rival | 5.10d | 40ft | |||||
23 |
★ Sixteenth Rung
Starts behind the tree (the left bolted line on this wall) and runs through a juggy and fun roof. | 5.10c | 40ft, 4 | |||||
24 | ★ The Pinkney Route | 5.10d | 40ft | |||||
25 | ★ Guides Route Far Left | 5.4 | 40ft | |||||
26 | ★ Guides Route Left | 5.5 | 40ft | |||||
27 | ★ Guides Route Right | 5.5 | 40ft | |||||
The RockThese are the routes on the first big rock you see on your right when hiking down the trail. | ||||||||
29 | ★ The Rock | 5.7 | 40ft | |||||
30 | ★ In The Palm Of His Hand | 5.7 | 35ft |
1.12. Beauty Mountain 171 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 38.050224, -81.030016
1.12.1. The Brain 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Night Train | 5.12b | ||||
2 | ★ It's A Fine Line | 5.12d | 40ft | |||
3 | ★ Smokin' Guns | 5.12a | 40ft | |||
4 | ★ Choke It Up | 5.12d | 40ft | |||
5 | ★ Heller Route | 5.12d | 40ft | |||
6 | Way Cerebral | 5.11b | 60ft | |||
7 | ★★ Green Thing | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
8 | ★ You Want It, You Got It | 5.9 | 65ft | |||
9 | ★ Brain Wave | 5.7 | 65ft | |||
10 | ★ Out Of Mind | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
11 | ★ Journey To The Center Of The Brain | 5.7 | 65ft | |||
12 | ★ Brain Storm | 5.8 | ||||
13 | ★★ Brain Teasers | 5.10a | 65ft | |||
14 | Brain Child | 5.11b | ||||
15 |
★★ Brain Tweezers
On Right side of the Brain in a shady alcove opposite MENSA | 5.10c | 65ft, 5 | |||
16 | Bearpaw Crack | 5.8 | 55ft | |||
17 | ★★ M.E.N.S.A. | 5.12a | 50ft | |||
18 | Toadstool | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
19 | ★ Hot Flash | 5.10d | 60ft | |||
20 |
★★ Butta
Established in 1997 by Michal Stewart and local climbing guide, Jimmy Suffecool, on TR, FA after bolting. Do whatever it takes to get past the first bolt (5.11+)and enjoy all that lies ahead. 5.10 after the start. Follow the natural line. | 5.11c | 65ft, 5 | |||
21 | The Mandrill | 5.14a |
1.12.2. Blocks Area 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Chunky Monkey | 5.12b | 65ft | |||
2 | Mono Loco | 5.14a | ||||
3 | ★★ The Travisty | 5.13d | 70ft | |||
4 | Picket Fence | 5.14b | ||||
5 | ★ Whiney Bugs | 5.12b | 75ft | |||
6 | Super Whiney Bugs | 5.14a | ||||
7 | ★ Komatose | 5.12c | 40ft | |||
8 | The Greenway | 5.10b | 35ft | |||
9 | Where's Gus? | 5.9 | 35ft | |||
10 | Hot Bip | 5.12a | 25ft | |||
11 | ★★ Mongoloid | 5.12d | 25ft | |||
12 | ★★ Genocide | 5.12a R | 85ft, 1 | |||
13 | Project 2 (In Progress) | project | ||||
14 | Chick's Roof | 5.11d | 85ft | |||
15 | ★ Green Envy | 5.12c | 70ft | |||
16 | ★★★ Disturbance | 5.11d | 70ft | |||
17 | Stay Tuned | 5.8 | 80ft | |||
18 | Screams In The Woods | 5.11b | 65ft | |||
19 | ★ Garden Club | 5.12a | 60ft | |||
20 | ★ Warp Factor III | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
21 | Aye, Aye Captain | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
22 | ★ Baby Cakes | 5.12a | 60ft |
1.12.3. Burning Buttress 30 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
1.12.4. Chasin' the Wind Area 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sleeping Beauty | 5.12a | 75ft | |||
2 | ★ West Virginia Water Torture | 5.13a | 75ft | |||
3 | ★ The Zoomin' Human | 5.10a | ||||
4 | ★ Tetelestai | 5.12a | 85ft | |||
5 | Quaking Flakes | 5.8 | 70ft | |||
6 | ★ Mononuclear Knows It | 5.8 | 75ft | |||
7 | ★ Ewe Can't Touch This | 5.12d | 95ft | |||
8 | ★ Fat Man's Folly | 5.9 | 80ft | |||
9 | ★ Gimme, Gimme Shock Treatment | 5.12b | 75ft | |||
10 | ★★ Chasin' The Wind | 5.11b | 110ft | |||
11 | ★★ Chasin' The Wind Direct Finish | 5.11b | ||||
12 | Chasin' The Wind Indirect Start | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
13 | Chasin' The Wind Direct Start | 5.12a | 30ft | |||
14 | ★ Nazz, Nazz | 5.12b | 85ft | |||
15 | ★ Echo | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
16 | ★ Rainy Daze | 5.9 | 35ft | |||
17 | Lone Rhinoceros | 5.10c | 95ft | |||
18 | This Won't Hurt A Bit | 5.10 A2 | 60ft |
1.12.5. Thunder Buttress 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ The Perfect View | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
2 | ★ Air | 5.11a | 75ft | |||
3 | The Art of Almost | 5.12b | 150ft, 4 | |||
4 | Gun Control | 5.13c | 3 | |||
5 | ★★ Gun Club | 5.12c | 100ft | |||
6 | ★★★ Super Crack | 5.9 | 100ft | |||
7 | ★ Photo Finish | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
8 | ★ The Beast In Me | 5.12a | 75ft, 1 | |||
9 | That’s What She Said | 5.12d | 70ft | |||
10 | ★★ Transcendence | 5.11d | 75ft | |||
11 | ★ Screamer Crack | 5.8 | 75ft | |||
12 | ★★ Mushrooms | 5.10a | 80ft | |||
13 | L.S.D. | 5.12a | 75ft, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Left Son Of Thunder | 5.11d | 80ft | |||
15 | ★★★ Right Son Of Thunder | 5.11c | 80ft, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Momma's Squeeze Box | 5.8 | 70ft | |||
17 | ★★ Concertina | 5.12a | 75ft | |||
18 | Coal Train | 5.14a | ||||
19 | ★ Stabat Mater | 5.13b | 100ft | |||
20 | Beauty And The Beast | 5.10d | 100ft |
1.12.6. Right Side 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Backlash | 5.12a | 40ft | |||
2 | ★ Loud Noise | 5.12c | 95ft | |||
3 | ★ Let's Make A Deal | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
4 | Clairvoyance | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
5 | Death Of A Salesman | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
6 | Beginner's Luck | 5.5 | 40ft | |||
7 | Potato Chip | 5.6 | 40ft | |||
8 | Short'n Sweet | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
9 | ★ Pulp | 5.12a | 60ft | |||
10 | ★ Welcome To Beauty | 5.11b | 90ft | |||
11 | ★ Right Hand Variation | 5.11c | ||||
12 | ★ Simple Harmonic Motion | 5.10a | 120ft | |||
13 | ★ Where The Big Boys Begin (Sojourners) | 5.10b | 100ft | |||
14 | ★ Plastic Attraction | 5.12a | 45ft | |||
15 | Brooks Route | 5.11d | 45ft | |||
16 | ★ Sharkey's Day | 5.11d | 90ft | |||
17 | Ergodicity | 5.8 | 35ft | |||
18 | Throw Down Those Childish Toys | 5.7 | 40ft |
1.12.7. Super Mario Boulder 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Unnamed | 5.11b | ||||
2 | The Bunny Hop of Death | 5.11b | ||||
3 | New Route | 5.12a | ||||
4 | Unnamed BM#2 | 5.11b | ||||
5 | ★★ Tubin' Dudes | 5.13b | ||||
6 | Rival | 5.10a | ||||
7 | ★ Sixteenth Rung | 5.10c | ||||
8 | Pinckney Route | 5.10d | ||||
9 |
Guides Route, Left
Trad with bolt anchors. | 5.5 | 39ft | |||
10 | Guides Route, Right | 5.5 | ||||
11 | In The Palm of His Hand | 5.7 | ||||
12 | ★★ Super Mario | 5.13a | ||||
13 | ★★ European Vacation | 5.12b | ||||
14 | Donkey Kong | 5.13a | ||||
15 | ★★ Leap of Faith | 5.13c |
1.12.8. Garbage Wall 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Batman | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
2 | Robin | 5.8 | 30ft | |||
3 | Aquaman | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
4 | Rubbish | 5.11 | ||||
5 | Shit Can | 5.10 | ||||
6 | MO | 5.10a | 30ft | |||
7 | Turan-Acaurus Wrecks | 5.10c | ||||
8 | Dispose of Properly | 5.11b/c | 30ft | |||
9 | Tols for Mutant Women | 5.10c | ||||
10 | Pop Top Heaven | project | ||||
11 | Dueling Banjos | 5.12a | 25ft | |||
12 | Wonder Woman | 5.11d | ||||
13 | Rusty Car | 5.9 | ||||
14 | Plastic Man | 5.11a | 20ft | |||
15 | Unnamed 1 | 5.9 | 30ft | |||
16 | Unnamed 2 | 5.10 | 30ft | |||
17 | Turan-Ocaurus Wrecks | 5.10 | 30ft | |||
18 | Tools For Mutant Women | 5.10c | 30ft | |||
19 | Abandoned Project | project | 25ft | |||
20 | Wonderwoman | 5.11d | 25ft |
1.12.9. Ladders Area 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Night Train | 5.12b | ||||
2 | It's A Fine Line | 5.12d | ||||
3 | ★★ Smokin' Guns | 5.12a | ||||
4 | Up, Up, and Away | 5.12d | ||||
5 | Heller Route | 5.12d |
1.12.10. Ali Bubba Cave 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Ali Bubba stand start | V8 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Ali Bubba sit start | V9 |
1.13. Keeneys Buttress 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Voyage To Uranus | 5.11a | 90ft | |||
2 | ★ Eminent Domain | 5.11c | 70ft | |||
3 | It's A Honker! | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
4 | ★ Right Son Of Lichen | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
5 | ★ Left Son Of Lichen | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
6 | Frozen In The Big Position | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
7 | We'll Have To Whisk It | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
8 | ★ Meat Puppets | 5.11b | 75ft | |||
9 | Honker Heaven | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
10 | Honker Hell | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
11 | ★ Diet Hard | 5.11d | 50ft | |||
12 | ★ Happiness Is A Pair Of Warm Gums | 5.10a | 30ft |
1.14. Animal Escarpments 27 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.14.1. Dog Wall 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Poodle With A Mohawk | 5.1 | 60ft | |||
2 | ★ Themetime | 5.6 | 60ft | |||
3 | ★★ Dreamtime | 5.9 | 70ft | |||
4 | ★ One-Eyed Viper | 5.10b | 65ft | |||
5 | Black Dog | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
6 | Born Under A Bad Smell | 5.10c | 60ft | |||
7 | ★ Nasty Poodle Chew | 5.6 | 70ft | |||
8 | ★ Puppylove | 5.10d | 80ft | |||
9 | ★ Pit Bull Terror | 5.10b | 80ft | |||
10 | ★ Hangdog | 5.11c | 80ft | |||
11 | Point The Bone | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
12 | Dog Day Afternoon | 5.11a | 70ft | |||
13 | Call Of The Wild | 5.11c | 35ft | |||
14 | A Dog Always Returns To Its Vomit | 5.10c | 40ft | |||
15 | ★ Dingo | 5.10d | 40ft | |||
16 | Bitch In Heat | 5.11a | 45ft | |||
17 | Doggy Style | 5.11c | 50ft | |||
18 | ★ Underdog | 5.11a | 50ft | |||
19 | Mongrels | 5.10a | 60ft |
1.14.2. Cat Cliff 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ More Bum, More Fun | 5.10d | 60ft | |||
2 | ★ Morning Glory | 5.11a | 60ft | |||
3 | ★★ Labrador Reliever | 5.8 | 60ft | |||
4 | ★ Australian Whore | 5.11a | 65ft | |||
5 | ★ Kentucky Whore | 5.11c | 65ft | |||
6 | ★ Neuva Vida | 5.11b | 60ft | |||
7 | ★ The Good Life | 5.10c | 50ft | |||
8 | ★ Amarillo Dawn | 5.11a | 50ft |
1.15. Burnwood 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Choss Monster | V4 |
1.16. Hawk's Nest 11 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.16.1. Boulder G 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
1.16.1.1. Boulder G 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.16.2. Boulder P 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Pucker Face | V2 |
1.16.3. Boulder Q 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ #66 | V3 |
1.16.4. Boulder T 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Shark Fin | V4 |
1.16.5. Boulder X 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Puncture | V3 |
1.16.6. Boulder AA 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | C-Section | V3 | ||||
2 | ★★★ Breech Birth | V3 |
1.16.7. Boulder BB 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Down-Climb | V0 | ||||
2 | ★★ Tough Love | V3 |
1.16.8. Boulder U 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Left Breast Arete | V4 |
1.16.9. Boulder J 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ #34 | V2 |