Begin by climbing an approach pitch (5.9 PG13) on the left wall below the massive roof. This is actually quite enjoyable. Traverse right on a thin foot ledge towards loose blocks, or continue up a massive hollow flake and then move right. This leads to a bolted belay at a sloping stance. 35 meters.
Clip a bolt off the belay with a long runner and step left around the arete into a junky corner. Up this a few moves and then back onto the arete. Stretch right to the crack, place pro, and commit to the short but surprisingly steep finger crack. There is basically one move of each size - tips through hands - on the way to the roof, so no matter your hand size, there's a crux for you! Under the roof, cop a pumpy rest and avoid clipping the lowering bolt; instead launch outwards. #2 Camalots quickly widen to #3 Camalots at the lip where a jug awaits for pulling over to the top. For many this "11d" section proves to be the crux.
Backjump and lower from the bolt under the roof to clean.
1984 | First ascent: Paul Van Betten & Richard Harrison |
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1987 | First free ascent: Stefan Glowacz |
5.13- | Assigned grade |
5.12- [5.11 - 5.12] -- | grAId |
5.13- | Rock Climbing Red Rocks |
5.13- | Rock 'N Road: Rock Climbing Areas of North America |
Overall quality 100 from 3 ratings.
Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9782952638876
A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.
Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
This digital guidebook presents a selection of 27 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.
Red Rocks: 19 routes Thanks to the very sculpted sandstone of Red rocks, it is possible to climb routes on very steep cliffs at quite moderate grade. The protections are good and quite easy to place. Trad 6a grade is required
Zion: 8 routes In Zion, the routes are often more demanding both in terms of difficulty and climbing style. Trad 6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience
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