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1. Vermont 1,337 routes in Region

Summary:
J
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Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.064981, -72.669401

summary

description

Until recently, climbing in Vermont was mostly undocumented -- there was no published guide or information. Sandwiched between the 'Dacks to the west and New Hampshire to the east, the Green Mountains of Vermont got very little in the way of climbing. The rock didn't help -- much of it soft schist which promoted the growth of greenery very strongly.

With the publication of Tough Schist: Rock Climbing in Northern Vermont by Travis Peckham, some of the climbing has now been documented. (Available from http://www.vermontrock.com/ .) Like any guide book, it is of course incomplete and inaccurate -- but it gives far more information in a publicly accessible format than has previously been available.

history

1.1. Wheeler Mountain 104 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.734144, -72.092346

description

A tall, south-facing, granite cliff in the north-east.

access issues

This cliff is on both Willoughby State Forest and private land. Climbing is allowed as guests by the land-owner, but no long-term arrangements are in place.

1.1.1. Woolite Buttress 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.2. Moosehead Crack 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.3. Hump or Die 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.4. Above Moosehead 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.5. Whine and Cheese 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.6. The Great Corner 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

1.1.7. The Right Stuff 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.8. Jugfest, Stella, and Casey 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.9. Secret Slab 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.10. Upper Wall - Left 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.11. Upper Wall - Right 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.12. Kingdom Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.1.13. The Black Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.14. Kicked in the Face 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

1.1.15. Eagle Point - Left 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.16. Eagle Point - Right 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.17. Birthday Boy Buttress 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.1.18. The Shield 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

1.2. Smuggler's Notch State Park 281 routes in Crag

Summary:
Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.557157, -72.782805

description

Smuggler's Notch is best known for its bouldering, but there is also a variety of climbing on the various cliffs and outcrops around the notch. Route lengths vary from short (25ft) to long (400ft), and rock quality varies from loose choss to high quality and solid, sometimes on the same route.

1.2.1. Elephant Head Buttress 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Ice climbing and other styles

description

A large tower that looms over route 108 from the east side of the road, looking like the head of an elephant (if you squint right).

1.2.2. Bat Cave Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.557758, -72.794230

description

A very small area left and downhill of the Quartz Crack (100m from "The Diagonal") with the distinguishing feature of a large bat cave between pitches. This cave is large enough to sit well back from the edge, take off your shoes, and enjoy a can of Heady Topper.

approach

From the parking lot, travel from the far right corner of the parking lot into a boulder gully that has not been developed much. Follow the path through the boulder field until you see a trail that leads up and to the right of the Quartz crag. Follow this path until it leads you to a very small slopey wall. If you find yourself in a spot where the slopey wall goes both uphill and downhill from you, congratulations, you've walked up the descent trail and are between pitch one and two of "Steep Jugs." Go back downhill to the base of the slab to climb pitch 1, or continue from there. If, on approach, you've reached the ENT Gully, you've gone way too far.

1.2.3. Quartz Crack Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad climbing, Ice climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.557674, -72.795339

1.2.4. ENT Gully area 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.2.5. Boulders 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

1.2.6. Easy Gully 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.2.7. The Shallow End 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Top roping

description

A small face in the woods below "Easy Gully".

1.2.8. Beanstalker Buttress 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.2.9. Ragnarock 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

A large cliff to the right (south) of "Elephant Head Buttress".

1.2.10. Parking Lot Boulders 98 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.560733, -72.782805

1.2.11. Top of the hill 95 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.554849, -72.795938

1.2.12. Roots Boulder 16 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.551916, -72.795935

1.2.13. Ent Boulders 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.556741, -72.794119

1.2.14. Moon Tower Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.549345, -72.793619

1.2.15. Lower Ragnarock 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.552929, -72.794254

1.2.16. The Hunter And His Dog 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.555267, -72.794819

1.2.17. The South Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Ice climbing

1.2.18. Blind Fate Area 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Ice climbing

1.3. Bolton 473 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.508044, -72.997155

description

Climbing in and around the town of Bolton.

1.3.1. Upper West 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.534965, -73.023927

description

A largish cliff owned by CRAG-VT.

It also has a boulder field with some 50+ developed problems along the base.

access issues

Crag Vermont administers the land, with online climber registration:

https://forms.gle/iBdQXATv5DLhNASL6

1.3.2. Bolton Quarry 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

description

A quarry from the construction of I-89, now owned by CRAG-VT for climbers.

I'm not sure how the climbs already in the database correspond to the named climbs, so leaving them untouched.

1.3.3. Lower West 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

description

An easily accessible south-facing crag on land owned by CRAG-VT, a climber coalition.

The cliff generally has easy top access, so popular for top-rope climbing, too.

approach

Follow the obvious trail past the kiosk.

descent notes

Walk off either end of the cliff, or rappel/lower off fixed anchors.

1.3.4. Upper Upper West 41 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.430581, -72.898081

description

One of the largest cliffs in the area, but not greatly developed.

1.3.5. The Carcass Crag 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

description

A small sport-climbing crag with a substantial roof, also owned by CRAG-VT.

1.3.6. The 82 Crag 56 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.378185, -72.860513

description

Large cliff above the quarry with a 6ft high number 82 painted on it.

1.3.7. The Pit Crag 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

1.3.8. The Bog Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

description

Small cliff with concentration of moderate routes.

1.3.9. Bone Mountain 75 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.393446, -72.848093

description

A big cliff with a long, difficult, hard to find approach.

1.3.10. Bamforth Ridge 4 routes in Field

Summary:
Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.377907, -72.887343

1.3.11. Wolf Run Boulders 14 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.428230, -72.916720

1.3.12. Bolton Notch Rd Boulders 44 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.398586, -72.906925

1.3.13. Beneath The Bog Boulders 5 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.365860, -72.865909

1.3.14. The Bolton Dome 8 routes in Field

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.370474, -72.858020

1.3.15. Honey Hollow Bouldering 3 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.367796, -72.907858

1.3.16. Bolton Dome 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 44.370904, -72.858171

1.4. Deer Leap 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.665062, -72.832723

description

A well-developed top-rope and trad crag.

ethic

Bolting on rappel strongly discouraged. Main cliff considered "entirely developed".

1.4.1. Darkside 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing, Top roping and Sport climbing

1.4.2. Main Cliff 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

1.4.3. Upper Tier 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.4.4. Lower Tier 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.4.5. Top Rock 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Top roping

1.5. Montpelier 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Branbury State Park 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Lake Willoughby State Park 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Ice climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 44.727820, -72.083486

1.7.1. Mt. Pisgah 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Ice climbing

1.7.2. Mt. Hor 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Ice climbing and Aid climbing

1.8. Winooski Cut 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.489930, -73.164011

1.8.1. Winooski Cut 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.489392, -73.164916

1.8.2. Winooski Quarry 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.490478, -73.162993

1.9. Prospect Rock 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 44.654265, -72.723854

summary

Moderate climbing near Johnson, VT.

1.9.1. Pick, Axe'r Shovel 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.9.2. Taboo Crack Buttress 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.9.3. Left Side 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.9.4. Right Side 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing, Top roping and Sport climbing

1.10. The Butchers' Crags 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.647991, -72.728516

1.10.1. Butchers' Crag East 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.647430, -72.727576

1.10.2. Butchers' Crag West 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.648500, -72.730418

1.11. Lake Dunmore 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 43.903575, -73.060660

summary

Popular top-rope destination.

1.11.1. Main Cliff 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Top roping and Trad climbing

1.11.2. Lower Slabs 0 routes in Unknown

description

Below and right of "Main Cliff", a 40ft or so slab with room for 3 top ropes in the 5.3 to 5.4 range.

1.11.3. Reptillion Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Top roping

1.11.4. Eastman Overhangs 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Top roping

1.11.5. North Overhangs 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.906776, -73.063006

1.12. Brandon Gap 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.843445, -72.960854

1.12.1. Finger Rock 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

description

Upper Spire

1.12.2. Crow's Nest 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

description

Lower Spire

1.12.3. The Great Cliff 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

1.13. Groton State Park 73 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.265452, -72.300654

1.13.1. Marshfield Ledge 41 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

description

A large cliff in Groton State Park.

1.13.2. Spice Mountain 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.297510, -72.306648

1.13.3. Owl's Head 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.13.4. Roadside Boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.296353, -72.304025

1.13.5. The Gem 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.293633, -72.308030

1.13.6. Kettle Pond Boulders 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.297498, -72.307478

1.13.7. Mobius Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.294894, -72.303692

1.13.8. Prize Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.294129, -72.303366

1.14. Bald Hill 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.762806, -71.985074

1.15. Dekd Boulders In Killington 108 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.676221, -72.792527

1.15.1. Red Eft Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.673197, -72.794987

1.15.2. Spring Sliding Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.673682, -72.797003

1.15.3. Rocking Horse Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.673163, -72.796645

1.15.4. Western Frontier 19 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.678792, -72.790737

1.15.5. Dr. Evil's Lair 26 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.678853, -72.790698

1.15.6. Regular Boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.15.7. Invisible Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.15.8. Right Ridge 21 routes in Field

Summary:

1.15.9. Dirty Crack Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.16. Killington - Route 100 North 22 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.691338, -72.830228

1.16.1. Hillside Boulders 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.688903, -72.823399

1.16.2. Sunny Valley 20 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.702655, -72.821349

1.17. Chittenden Bouldering 15 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.737844, -72.904497

1.17.1. Old Blistah 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.739365, -72.902520

1.17.2. Timber 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.737613, -72.902678

1.17.3. The Fin 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.17.4. Lower Glen - Pyramid 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.735796, -72.902783

1.17.5. The Pillars 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 43.751356, -72.899161

1.18. Lone Rock Point 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.490957, -73.247665

1.18.1. Lone Rock Bouldering 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.488086, -73.249129

1.18.2. Main Cliff 21 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.488350, -73.248982

1.19. Riverside Walls 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.825438, -72.539315

1.19.1. Riverside Bouldering 2 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.827051, -72.538838

1.19.2. Trad Wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.827117, -72.538039

1.19.3. Sport Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.827114, -72.538828

1.20. Ethan Allen Boulders 5 routes in Region

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.510457, -73.238071

1.20.1. Hillside Boulders 5 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.506584, -73.240235

1.21. Abbey Pond 13 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.031096, -73.087865

1.22. Jamaica 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.072799, -72.735361

1.22.1. Entry Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.078248, -72.743647

1.22.2. Jamaican Slopestyle Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

1.22.3. High Noon Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.068273, -72.753700

1.22.4. Second Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.075724, -72.731894

1.23. Eagle Hollow 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.976533, -72.295161

1.23.1. Eagle Ledge 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.979547, -72.298752

1.23.2. Lasso Ledge 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.974890, -72.294457

1.24. Black Mountain 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.926821, -71.748691

1.24.1. Main Cliff 26 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.921604, -71.741980

1.24.2. North 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.931337, -71.754657

1.25. Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center ~Quechee 0 routes in Gym

description

68 East Woodstock Rd

Hartland

Vermont 05073 USA

http://www.vermontclimbing.com/quechee.html

call: (802)457-7090

1.26. Petra Cliffs Climbing Center 0 routes in Gym

description

105 Briggs St.

Burlington

Vermont 05401 USA

https://www.petracliffs.com/

call: (802) 657-3872

1.27. University of Vermont Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

University of Vermont

Burlington

Vermont 05405 USA

http://www.uvm.edu/~outside/

call:

1.28. MetroRock - Everett 0 routes in Gym

description

6 Susie Wilson Rd

Essex

Vermont 05452 USA

https://www.metrorock.com/burlington

call: 802-878-4500

1.29. Johnson State College Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

1.30. Stowe Rocks - Adventure Center at Spruce Peak 0 routes in Gym

description

Stowe Mountain Resort

Stowe

Vermont 05672 USA

https://www.stowe.com/

call: 802-253-3000

1.31. Valley Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

1840 Sugarbush Access Rd.

Warren

Vermont 05674 USA

http://www.sugarbush.com/activities/sharc/rock-gym/

call: (802) 583-6700

1.32. Green Mountain Rock Climbing Center 0 routes in Gym

description

223 Woodstock Ave

Rutland

Vermont 05701 USA

http://www.vermontclimbing.com/

call: 8027733343

1.33. Castleton State College Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

CSC Fitness Center

Castleton

Vermont 05735 USA

call: (802) 468-1374

1.34. Ethan Allen Park - Tower Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Fixed Gear: Closed

They've recently put up several signs closing off the area due to endangered habitats.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
Summary:
All Top roping

Lat / Long: 44.506509, -73.240321

description

Situated in Ethan Allen Park beneath the Tower a large cliff face and lower cliff area by the entrance are set up with 6 sets of toprope bolt anchors providing 9 new routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.11+, with a few unclimbed new projects. All routes are easily accessible from the trail behind the Tower leading to a small trail along the edge of the cliff.

approach

From Burlington, on bike take the bikepath to Leddy Park and cut through the connector to North Avenue going North, turn right into the park on Ethan Allen Ave.

From Burlington, by car, take the 127 North to the first exit, turn right off the exit onto North Ave going North, taking the right at the light into the Park on Ethan Allen Ave.

Park and take the trail to the Tower and behind it are 4 sets of route anchors. If looking for the lower cliff area then take the jogging trail next to the playground into the woods and the first set of cliffs you come to have 2 sets of anchors on the top of the cliff lines.

The routes are no taller than 70' so a single 50m rope will be able to handle all the climbs there. The page here is adding route heights on their own for some reason even after I entered the correct height in each, so take note that the lower walls are shorter and the main Tower wall in the photo is the largest.

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