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Southeast Face Mostly Aid climbing 41 routes in area

41
YDS
5.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c5.13a5.13c5.14a5.14c

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

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Routes

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1
5.10 A4 VI ★★★ The Real Nose Aid
2
5.11b A4+ VI Genesis Aid
3
5.8 A2 VI ★★ New Dawn Aid 2700ft, 28
4
5.7 A3 VI ★★★ Mescalito Aid 2700ft, 26

FA: Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton, Steve Sutton & Chris Nelson, 1973

5
5.10 A3 VI Hockey Night in Canada Aid
6
5.9 A3 VI ★★ Wall of the Early Morning Light Aid 2700ft, 27
7
5.14d ★★★ The Dawn Wall / Free Dawn Wall Mixed trad 3000ft, 32, 35
1 5.12b
2 5.13a
3 5.13c
4 5.12b
5 5.12d
6 5.13c
7 5.14a
8 5.13d
9 5.13c
10 5.14a
11 5.13c
12 5.14b
13 5.13b
14 5.14d
15 5.14d
16 5.14a
17 5.14c
18 5.14a
19 5.13c
20 5.13b
21 5.13d
22 5.13d
23 5.10
24 5.11
25 5.11
26 5.11d
27 5.11c
28 5.12c
29 5.12b
30 5.12b
31 5.13a
32 5.12b

Pitch 5 : Anchorage Ledge

Pitch 14 : protected by fixed gear

Pitch 15 : The Traverse

Pitch 16 : The Dyno

Pitch 22 : Wino Tower

Pitch 28 : Ship's Bow

FFA: Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson, 14 Jan 2015

8
5.10 A4+ VI Space Aid
9
5.8 A4 VI ★★★ South Seas Aid 2500ft, 24
10
5.9 A3 VI ★★★ Pacific Ocean Wall Aid 2500ft, 27
11
5.9 A4 VI ★★ Sea of Dreams Aid 2400ft, 27
12
5.8 A2 VI ★★★ North America Wall Aid 2400ft, 27

One of the most historic routes on 'El Capitan'.

FA: Golden Age, Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt & Royal Robbins, 1964

13
5.13c Pineapple Express Trad 2400ft

A free variation to 'North America Wall' that links with 'El Niño' and avoids the rappel completely.

FFA: Sonnie Trotter & Tommy Caldwell, 19 Nov 2018

14
5.8 A4 VI ★★ Wyoming Sheep Ranch Aid 2200ft, 23
15
5.10 A4+ VI Heartland Aid
16
5.13c El Niño Trad 30

Free variation of 'North America Wall' with one short rappel down a completely black eight-meter blank section.

FFA: Thomas Huber & Alexander Huber, 1994

17
5.10 A4+ VI New Jersey Turnpike Aid
18
5.9 A4 VI ★★ Atlantic Ocean Wall Aid 2000ft, 25
19
5.9 A4 VI ★★★ Iron Hawk Aid 2000ft, 26
20
5.9 A4 VI ★★ Native Son Aid 1900ft, 17
21
5.7 A4 VI Scorched Earth Aid 1800ft, 15
22
5.7 A4 VI ★★ Aurora Aid 2000ft, 16
23
{AU} YDS:5.9 AID:A3+ NCCS:VI ★★★ Tangerine Trip Aid 2000ft, 17

FA: Charlie Porter & John-Paul de St. Croix, 1973

24
5.9 A4 VI ★★ Lost in America Aid 2000ft, 16
25
5.7 A4 VI ★★ Zenyatta Mondatta Aid 1800ft, 16
26
{AU} YDS:5.7 AID:A4 COM:VI ★★★ The Shortest Straw Aid 1800ft, 16
27
5.7 A2 VI ★★★ Zodiac Aid 1800ft, 16

FA: Charlie Porter

28
5.9 A5 VI Surgeon General Aid
29
5.7 A4 VI ★★ Lunar Eclipse Aid 1800ft, 18
30
5.10 A5 VI Born Under a Bad Sign Aid
31
5.8 A5 VI Plastic Surgery Disaster Aid
32
5.9 A4+ VI Bad Seed Aid
33
5.9 A4 VI Bad to the Bone Aid
34
5.8 A3 VI ★★ Eagle's Way Aid 1800ft, 19
35
5.9 A5 VI On the Waterfront Aid
36
5.11 A5 VI High Plains Dripper Aid
37
5.10 A4 VI Pressure Cooker Aid
38
5.10 A5 VI Get Whacked Aid
39
5.10 A4 VI Waterfall Route Aid
40
5.11 A4 VI Chinese Water Torture Aid
41
5.10b ★★★ East Buttress Trad 1500ft
1 5.9 160ft
2 5.10b 70ft
3 5.6 55ft
4 5.6 125ft
5 Class 3 80ft
6 5.8 155ft
7 5.8 130ft
8 5.9 65ft
9 5.9 130ft
10 5.5 100ft
11 5.8 160ft
12 5.7 150ft
13 5.6 70ft

For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark.

After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short)

Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree.

After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road

FA: Allen Steck, Wili Siri, Bill Long & Willi Unsoeld, 1953

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Yosemite Bouldering

Author(s): Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781735608006

Detailing more than 1,300 boulder problems and packed with personal essays and breathtaking photos, Yosemite Bouldering is a must-have guidebook for anyone climbing in Yosemite.

  • Contains detailed descriptions of more than 1,300 boulder problems, including over 400 new problems and 7 new bouldering areas
  • Color coded entries and GPS coordinates help you choose and find your problems
  • Full-color 1st edition features multiple personal essays and breathtaking climbing photos
Buy
ⓘ
Golden State Bouldering

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations
Buy
ⓘ
Climbing California's Fourteeners

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit
Buy
ⓘ

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5.7 A2 VI ★★★ Zodiac
5.8 A2 VI ★★★ North America Wall
5.9 A3+ VI ★★★ Tangerine Trip
5.10b ★★★ East Buttress
5.14d ★★★ The Dawn Wall

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★★★ Zodiac 5.7 A2 VI

Heath Black on ★★★ East Buttress 5.10b - Neil on arete

Fri 19 May
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