Help

Routes as aid in El Capitan

Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:

-

Other filters:

  • Weather
  • Walk in time
  • Walk in angle
  • Legality
  • Water access
  • Steepness
  • Style
  • Vegetation
  • Condition
  • Descent
  • Rock type
  • Aspect
Sort by: Bulk edit (max 100)

Showing all 99 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
West Face
5.10 A3+ VI Mr Midwest
Aid
5.10a A3 VI Realm of the Flying Monkeys
Aid
5.9 A4 VI Mirage
Aid
5.7 C2 VI Lurking Fear

FA: Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff & Jim Pettigrew, 1976

FFA: Tommy Caldwell & Beth Rodden, 2006

Aid 610m, 19
Southwest Face
5.10 A3+ VI Lost World
Aid
5.10 A3+ VI Squeeze Play
Aid
5.10 A4 VI Hole World
Aid
5.9 A3 VI West Buttress
Aid 610m, 20
5.9 A3 VI For Your Eyes Only (aka Octopussy)
Aid
5.7 A3 VI Never Never Land
Aid 820m, 20
5.7 A3 VI Aquarian Wall
Aid 850m, 20
5.10 A5 VI Winds of Change
Aid
5.10+ A4 VI Wings of Steel
Aid
5.7 A3 VI Horse Chute
Aid 610m, 20
5.9 A3 VI Horse Play
Aid
5.8 A3 VI Dihedral Wall
Aid 730m, 26
5.7 A4 VI Cosmos
Aid 730m, 24
5.8 A3 VI Excalibur
Aid 820m, 28
5.11c A4+ VI Bermuda Dunes
Aid
5.9 A4 VI The Heart Route
Aid
5.9 A4 VI Pacemaker
Aid
5.8 A3+ VI Son of Heart (aka Heart Woute)
Aid 820m, 29
5.8 A3 VI Sunkist
Aid 880m, 31
5.10 A5 VI Jolly Roger
Aid
5.7 A3 VI Magic Mushroom

FA: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton, 1972

Aid 880m, 31
5.9 A3+ VI The Shield
Aid 880m, 30
5.9 A4 VI Dorn Direct
Aid
5.9 A2 VI Muir Wall
Aid 1100m, 33
5.9 C4 VI Muir Wall (All Clean)

The Muir Wall is one of El Cap's greatest natural lines, second only to the Salathé. It boasts large clean corners from the ground to summit with moderate yet sustained climbing.

This route is substantially more involved than the Nose or Salathé but technically easier than the Shield or Zodiac.

Aid 1000m, 33
5.9 C2 VI Salathé Wall

FA: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost & Chuck Pratt, 1961

FFA: Todd Skinner & Paul Piana, 1988

Aid 880m, 35
5.8 C2 VI Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose)
Aid 880m, 30
5.9 A2 VI Grape Race
Aid 430m, 12
5.10 A4 VI Ephemeron

Parallels 'The Nose'

FA: Brandon Adams & Kristoffer Wickstrom, 28 Apr 2018

Aid 22, 35
5.9 C2 VI The Nose

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Speed Records

  • 1975 : Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay : 17:45
  • 1984 : Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler : 09:30 (approximate)
  • 1986 : John Bachar, Peter Croft : 10:05
  • 1990 : Hans Florine, Steve Schneider : 8:06
  • 1990 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 6:40
  • 1991 : Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel : 6:01
  • 1991 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 4:48
  • 1992 : Hans Florine, Peter Croft : 4:22
  • 2001-10 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:59:35
  • 2001-10 : Hans Florine, Jim Herson : 3:57:27
  • 2001-11 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:24:20
  • 2002-9-29 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:48:55
  • 2007-10-4 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:48:30
  • 2007-10-8 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:45:45
  • 2008-7-2 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:43:33
  • 2008-10-12 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:37:05
  • 2010-11-6 : Dean Potter †, Sean Leary : 2:36:45
  • 2012-6-17 : Hans Florine, Alex Honnold : 2:23:46
  • 2017-10-21 : Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright : 2:19:44
  • 2018-06-06 : Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell : 1:58:07

FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore, 1958

FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993

Aid 1000m, 31
5.11b The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe)
Aid 400m
Southeast Face
5.10 A4 VI The Real Nose
Aid
5.11b A4+ VI Genesis
Aid
5.8 A2 VI New Dawn
Aid 820m, 28
5.7 A3 VI Mescalito

FA: Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton, Steve Sutton & Chris Nelson, 1973

Aid 820m, 26
5.10 A3 VI Hockey Night in Canada
Aid
5.9 A3 VI Wall of the Early Morning Light
Aid 820m, 27
5.10 A4+ VI Space
Aid
5.8 A4 VI South Seas
Aid 760m, 24
5.9 A3 VI Pacific Ocean Wall
Aid 760m, 27
5.9 A4 VI Sea of Dreams
Aid 730m, 27
5.8 A2 VI North America Wall

One of the most historic routes on 'El Capitan'.

FA: Golden Age, Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt & Royal Robbins, 1964

Aid 730m, 27
5.8 A4 VI Wyoming Sheep Ranch
Aid 670m, 23
5.10 A4+ VI Heartland
Aid
5.10 A4+ VI New Jersey Turnpike
Aid
5.9 A4 VI Atlantic Ocean Wall
Aid 610m, 25
5.9 A4 VI Iron Hawk
Aid 610m, 26
5.9 A4 VI Native Son
Aid 580m, 17
5.7 A4 VI Scorched Earth
Aid 550m, 15
5.7 A4 VI Aurora
Aid 610m, 16
{AU} YDS:5.9 AID:A3+ NCCS:VI Tangerine Trip

FA: Charlie Porter & John-Paul de St. Croix, 1973

Aid 620m, 17
5.9 A4 VI Lost in America
Aid 610m, 16
5.7 A4 VI Zenyatta Mondatta
Aid 550m, 16
{AU} YDS:5.7 AID:A4 COM:VI The Shortest Straw
Aid 550m, 16
5.7 A2 VI Zodiac

FA: Charlie Porter

Aid 550m, 16
5.9 A5 VI Surgeon General
Aid
5.7 A4 VI Lunar Eclipse
Aid 550m, 18
5.10 A5 VI Born Under a Bad Sign
Aid
5.8 A5 VI Plastic Surgery Disaster
Aid
5.9 A4+ VI Bad Seed
Aid
5.9 A4 VI Bad to the Bone
Aid
5.8 A3 VI Eagle's Way
Aid 550m, 19
5.9 A5 VI On the Waterfront
Aid
5.11 A5 VI High Plains Dripper
Aid
5.10 A4 VI Pressure Cooker
Aid
5.10 A5 VI Get Whacked
Aid
5.10 A4 VI Waterfall Route
Aid
5.11 A4 VI Chinese Water Torture
Aid
Delectable Pinnacle
A3 Aid Route
Aid
Southwest Base Area
A4 La Escuela Direct

FA: Eric Beck & Steve Williams, 1969

Aid
A1 Dihedral Wall Base
Aid
Southeast Base Area
A3 Negative Pinnacle, Left
Aid
A4 Negative Pinnacle, Center
Aid
Schultz's Ridge East Side
5.11c A3 Abazaba
Aid
A4 Creamatorim
Aid
Miscellaneous
A5 VI Abstract Impressionist
Aid
5.9 A3 VI Allied Forces
Aid
5.9 A4 VI Continental Drift
Aid
5.9 A5 VI Disorderly Conduct
Aid
5.7 C2 El Cap Tree
Aid 120m
5.13c A0 VI El Nino
Aid
A4 VI Every Man for Himself
Aid
5.8 A4 Flight of the Albatross
Aid 880m, 21
5.9 A5 VI Gulf Stream
Aid
5.9 A5 VI Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys
Aid
5.7 A4 VI Kaos
Aid
A4 VI Ned's Excellent Adventure
Aid
5.8 A5 VI Nightmare on California St.
Aid
5.11 A4+ VI Reach for the Sky
Aid
5.9 A5 VI Reticent
Aid
5.7 A5 Reticent Wall

FA: and then most of the 14 pitches above that route’s Lay Lay Ledge are rated A3 or harder, Steve Gerberding, Lori Reddel & Scott Stowe, 1995

Aid 820m, 21
A5 VI Ring of Fire
Aid
5.11c A4+ VI The Central Scrutinizer
Aid
{AU} YDS:5.8 AID:A3 Tribal Rite
Aid 880m, 29
5.9 A3+ VI Virginia
Aid

Showing all 99 routes.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文