Ascents of Merlins Wand

Beautiful line! More face than crack climbing.

Amazing climbing from top to bottom. The first pitch is pure crack, punishing anyone who tries to face climb it but rewarding those willing to trust the jam. I suspect for a good crack climber this is 5+ however for a more all-rounder such as myself this is firmly 6a climbing even in the crack. The second pitch is committing and there is an escape anchor incase it is too much for you, however if you step up and place crux protection you will find the moves very rewarding and within the 6a skillset. The 6b move is very intense but can be protected by stepping up and then down-climbing to recover before going for the full send. Requires high feet and faith in a left hand jam. Pitch 4 is the surprise of the route, once you feel you are past the hard sections onto nice easy 5b climbing, pitch 4 creeps up on you by being continually sustained over its entire 45m length. Pitch 5 is still enjoyable and less sustained.