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Ascent of Ozymandias (free version) by Lee Cujes

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Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Mount Buffalo
The Gorge - North Side North Wall
28 Ozymandias (free version) - with Aaron Jones
1 23 25 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

Wet, yuck. Both led.

2 28 52 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

Tons of falls on one TR solo session. Then, unbelievably, led cleanly first try the next day. Both led. MEGA!

3 25 30 Aid

Too wet and slimy to attempt. A shame.

4 24 35 Second lead by Aaron Jones

Long and intricate. In hindsight, better to stop the pitch earlier at natural stance.

5 22 30 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

All class. Fingerlock laybacks forever.

6 22 35 Second lead by Aaron Jones

Grungy, dirty and hard. Fist jamming through an overhung V-slot. Necessary but not enjoyable.

7 19 15 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

Diagonal jamming with no feet. A short pitch but I still ran out of gear.

8 14 20 Second lead by Aaron Jones

Definitely avoiding the chimney at all costs.

9 10 25 Trad lead by Lee Cujes

I got lost and had the scariest moment of the entire route, trying to mantle a round boulder above a ledgefall in approach shoes.

Trad 270m Mega Classic
When Aaron said he wanted to do this route, I didn't respond for over a week. I reeeeally didn't want to climb some coarse granite nightmare. But for that exact reason I figured it was best to say yes and get outside the old comfort zone. In the end, all the training and preparation paid dividends and despite the rain only giving us about half the climbing days we had planned and keeping one of the pitches saturated, we climbed 8 of the 9 pitches (including the crux) in 2 days and had a fantastic time doing it. A very memorable first ever trip to Buffalo. Probably can't top that, might never return.

 

Showing all 1 ascent.

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