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Ascents as Onsight or Onsight solo as trad by Chris Speer

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 205 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Alchemy Wall
20 ~21 Evelyn's Climb - with ewan Trad 15m Good
Grade 20 if you’re name is Evelyn and you have children’s hands. For the rest of the population, this is quite stout. Overhanging green Camalot splitter! Cool route, deserves a star in the guide.

 
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
21 Chinese Algebra - with Alex Lawson Trad 48m Classic
Nearly dropped it a few times through the crux. Awesome line with great gear that keeps you working hard.

 
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress
15 Pibroch - with Will Grant Trad 20m Very Good
Highly enjoyable

 
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
15 The Venus Trap - with Will Grant Trad 15m Good
Committing traverse.

 
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles
Northern Group Echo Crag
14 Touchstone - with Will Grant, Alex Lawson Trad 60m Very Good
Led second pitch. Stars are for this pitch.

 
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles
Far North Lower Curtain Wall
19 ~18 Sideshow - with Will Grant Trad 35m Very Good
Loved it. Cool movement and great gear. Easier than Entertainer.

 
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall
18 ~17 Happy Ending - with Will Grant Trad 11m Good
Better than it looks

 
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
19 Rosy Shy - with cameron duff Trad 35m Good
Really enjoyed this. Very balance crux. Went direct to finish which was easy, but with poor gear and runout.

 
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork
22 Glory Rodent - with Alex Lawson Trad 20m Classic
Very happy to onsight this. Some good jams helped!

 
Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Arapiles
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
15 Scylla - with Alex Lawson Trad 15m Good
Good approach pitch.

 
18 I'm A Little Dinosaur - with Alex Lawson Trad 25m Good
Not too bad, thoughtful crux above gear.

 
Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Fortescue Bay
Bivouac Bay Crag
18 Easy Double Agent (Direct) - with Martin Brown, Chris Lang, Alex Doyle Trad 18m Very Good
Did both the direct and LH start. Both provide varied and interesting climbing with a range of excellent gear the whole way.

 
17 The Illusion Delusion - with Martin Brown, Chris Lang, Alex Doyle Trad 15m Very Good
We all thought this would be way harder and thrutchier looking at it from the ground. Turned out to be the best moderate here. Really classy, bomber gear, bomber jams, holds appear as desired. Would repeat any day and highly recommended.

 
19 Hard Life Starts at No.5 - with Martin Brown, Chris Lang, Alex Doyle Trad 18m Good
Another No.5 would've been nice. Don't recommend doing this with only 1! Made for an invigorating lead.

 
Thu 21st Mar 2024 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
The Shady Side Double Dozen Area
17 Afternoon Delights - with Sammi Trad 11m Good
Cruisy and a bit awkward.

 
Wed 6th Mar 2024 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress
20 Once - with Cameron Semple Trad 30m Good
I on-sight yoyo'd this in true 70's style to ensure that the ascent was as true as possible to the time in which the climb was put up. But this was the kind of yoyo in which one does not untie once at the ground, because in this version of the 70s universe if you haven't gone through the crux yet but your gear happens to slide off your harness, you still retain the onsight if you eat a blue lobster but only on a Monday, in the dark and preferably wearing blue jeans. Which is to say, if you complete the climb, then you untie at the anchor and call secure rather than safe. Then you can safely call onsight without being called out. Yeah probably fair enough. Thanks Fraser

 
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Lowdina
11 Oisin - with Steve Trad 20m Average
Found the possum

 
Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes University Buttress
18 Cleavage - with Jemma Herbert Trad 20m Good
I liked it. One committing move which adds some fun. I ended up humping the arete shortly after said committing move, which I thought was quite entertaining.

 
Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
19 ~20 Agent Orange Sunset - with dan Trad 18m Mega Classic
So you want adventure you say? But you only want to climb 15m you say? We’ll look no further than this shining pile of interest. ‘Struggle up the offwidth’ says the guide. Well I can tell you I did more than struggle. It may only be 4m long but you’ll have to work for every inch of it. Careful not to look down at your belayer giggling because you look like a cat in its box of kitty litter at 2am in the morning, whilst also feeling like a 1500s jungle explorer. Well done on making it through the gurgler, enjoy some nice hand jams until the roof. Oh, you like German baked goods you say? Great! Because you’re about to become a pretzel. Have some grass with that. And don’t forget that the beached whale top out into hardy shrubs is the coolest way to top out. You’re almost at the top. But oh no! The east exit chimney is now grade 36 because you’ve just circumnavigated the buttress with your rope and you can’t move. Keep struggling to the tree at the top. Also, make sure you start this as late as possible on a weeknight so your second has to do it in the dark. 10/10 experience. Everyone must do once, but then never again.

 
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Second Ramp
17 Steel Springs - with Amps Trad 15m Good
Short but good moves. Thoughtful but good gear.

 
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Mid Level)
18 ~19 Trucks Have Wings - with Amps Trad 45m Very Good
Really good. I found this much harder than 18, even for Freycinet. Getting through the bolts was highly engaging. Crack was great. Good gear throughout. Rapped off bolts at Full Sail.

 
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Lowdina
13 ~13 Sweetie - with Jai Trad 20m Good
Cool traverse.

 
16 Hood - with Jai Trad 30m Good
Old school.

 
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Mid Level)
20 ~20 Stud City - with Alex Lawson
1 17 Trad lead by Chris Speer
2 18 Second lead by Alex Lawson
3 20 Trad lead by Chris Speer
Trad 100m Mega Classic
Just wow - every pitch is unique and amazing in its own way. Led pitch 1 and 3. Top pitch is quite hard for 19 with some truly bizarre off-widthing in the runnel. Well protected the entire way so nothing to worry about. Would 100% do again.

 
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Fortescue Bay
Canoe Bay Crag
17 My Son Niko - with Jai Trad 18m Good
FA. Engaging climbing above the water.

 
Sat 27th May 2023 - Gunner's Quoin
South Face
18 Hard Silly Buggers - with Fraser Trad 25m Good
Tricky for the grade.

 
18 Easy Deep End - with Fraser Trad 25m Good
Pretty straight-forward. Nice finish.

 
Sat 27th May 2023 - Gunner's Quoin
Slope Buttress
17 Slope Head - with Will Trad 15m Good
Nice route. Would be better if it wasn't so dirty.

 
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
20 Hard Face It - with Martin Brown Trad 25m Very Good
Turns out you can hand traverse using your forearms. Nice route. Pumpy.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
Far North Hum Terrace
9 Hard Munchkin - with Alex Lawson Trad 20m Average
Completed solely on passive pro! Mossy but a bit of fun.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully
16 Hard Sheer Ecstasy - with Alex Lawson Trad 20m Good
Enjoyable and well-protected.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
22 ~21 White Heat - with Alex Lawson Trad 20m Very Good
Probably should have just led it. But when a top-rope presents itself.. 21 if you can jam.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
19 ~18 Cheops - with Alex Lawson Trad 20m Good
Interesting to see this is 19 here. Thought it was pretty 18. I did the bold direct start off the tree, which I can confirm is bold. You risk a ground-fall here so best to traverse in. Otherwise great climbing.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
17 Hard Oceanoid - with Alex Lawson Trad 75m Classic
My god was this memorable. Every move was memorable and excellent - and at the top of the grade. Crazy exposure.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
16 Coming on Chris - with Alex Lawson Trad 25m Very Good
Very memorable traverse.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
18 Sound Chaser - with Alex Lawson Trad 30m Good
After much deliberation over starting what seemed a poorly protected route from the ground, it was actually quite well-protected. Nearly jumped off the slab after a spider scare haha. The big pony sized block above the climb as you top out is very ready to go. Don't touch it!

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
11 Hard Dracula - with Alex Lawson Trad 40m Good
Pure fun.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
18 Golden Fleece - with Alex Lawson Trad 35m Very Good
Continually interesting and never too hard with great protection.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
20 Hard Wizard of lce - with Alex Lawson Trad 35m Classic
Wowee. Definitely had to fight for this one. Some savage awkwardness.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
18 Easy Wascal - with Alex Lawson Trad 10m Good
I really enjoyed this.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
18 Hard Gilt Edged - with Alex Lawson Trad 40m Very Good
Thought this was quite stout for 18. The crack on the first pitch is desperate at times.

 
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
14 Tarzan - with Cam Trad 33m Average
Bit of a one move wonder to a walk-off.

 
Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall
19 After the Goldrush - with Alex Lawson Trad 70m Classic
Led the crux pitch as I'd done Slaughterhouse prior. Heard a lot of stories about this but found it rather straightforward. Excellent climbing.

 
Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Ben Lomond
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress
17 Hard Barbe Di Vendetta - with Amps Trad 90m Very Good
1st pitch only. Awkward jams.

 
18 Rajah - with Amps Trad 80m Very Good
Burlier than expected.

 
19 Hard Ramadan - with Amps Trad 80m Classic
No harder than 19. Sustained.

 
20 Rigaudon - with Amps Trad 70m Classic
Second mega pitch only. Rapped in from Rajah to start of second to avoid the offwidth. Very sustained but nothing too hard. Almost pulled the death spike out of the crack at 2/3rds height. Be very, very careful with this. Took a huge rack. Quad 0.75 - 3 and used everything.

 
Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
23 Hard Hufflepuff - with Martin Brown Trad 20m Very Good
Can't believe this hadn't been done yet. A bit of cleaning has revealed a hidden gem. Goey at the grade and a good test-piece. A good one to learn the necessary jamming skills before jumping on Albatross at Lowdina.

 
Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Mount Wellington
Lost World Area Lost World
18 Good Behaviour - with rach Trad Don't Bother
Undercling move is cool. The rest is either dirty and weird or uninspiring.

 
Sat 28th Jan 2023 - South Sister
Dogwood Buttress
20 Hard New Creation - with Troopers Trad 15m Very Good
Tough start then great thin hands.

 
Fri 27th Jan 2023 - South Sister
Absent Friends Buttress
23 The Great Unknown - with the troopers Trad 15m Very Good
Ice cream grade for an onsight. Technical, sustained and dirty. Nice little route.

 
20 The Loner - with the troopers Trad 16m Very Good
Interesting offwidthing using a variety of techniques. Good stuff.

 
Fri 27th Jan 2023 - South Sister
Canyon Buttress
20 Emptiness, Eagles & Snow - with the troopers Trad 18m Very Good
A very good short route. Packs quite a lot in for its length.

 
18 ~17 Bischoff and Wing's Original - with the troopers Trad 22m Very Good
Slammer jammin. Soft.

 
19 Hard Small Beers and Thin Books - with the troopers Trad 22m Classic
Sustained and tough for the grade. Excellent bridging problem.

 
Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Fortescue Bay
Canoe Bay Crag
19 ~18 Hard Delicious Fish - with Fraser Trad 18m Very Good
If you're tall this is easier.

 
Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns
19 Hard Potem Tole - with Martin Brown Trad 50m Good
First half is dirty but climbs well at about 16/17. Second half is the money with the pumpy steep layback corner. Thought this was tough for 19.

 
21 Tartarus - with Martin Brown Trad 60m Classic
This was great. Led first pitch, but didn’t have any issues on the second which I thought might be a little tougher. All felt pretty straightforward to me! Great line.

 
Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes University Buttress
18 Easy Canapes Mixed trad 17m, 2 Average
Wed 4th Jan 2023 - Fortescue Bay
Canoe Bay Crag
17 ~17 The Bow - with Liam Mangan-Smith Trad 16m Very Good
A few cruxes between stances in a great position make this a really good climb. Some of the rock is still a little friable in one part which makes it hard to give classic status too, but it's well up there.

 
Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Step Tier
18 Opthalmia - with Steve Trad 80m Very Good
Finished up the last pitch of Lone Stranger as the third pitch is wide and full of trees. Second pitch is the money pitch anyway. Sustained, long and excellent. Getting around the tree is amusing. Would do again.

 
Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
20 Easy Slippery Sensation - with liam Trad 25m Very Good
Really really really good. Reminded me a lot of improbability drive without the exposure. Will do this again. Great gear.

 
Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Fortescue Bay
Canoe Bay Crag
15 Smooth Sailing - with Gina Sorensen Trad 20m Very Good
Pretty excellent. FA.

 
Sat 10th Dec 2022 - South Sister
Canyon Buttress
19 Pleasure in the Pain - with laura Trad 15m Very Good
Nice thin hands.

 
17 Hard Have Hans, Will Jam - with laura Trad 18m Good
Nice crack climbing then a gross offwidth. Though I should’ve stepped right to finish. Oh well.

 
Mon 5th Dec 2022 - Fortescue Bay
Canoe Bay Crag
13 Bogans in Boats Trad 8m Average
FA

 
14 French Canadian Canoe Corner Trad 15m Good
FA

 
17 Easy Rinse, Repeat Trad 18m Very Good
FA

 
19 Hard Piña Colada Perfection Trad 18m Very Good
FA

 
20 Chips Ahoy Trad 18m Good
FA (second)

 
18 Anchovy Arete Trad 18m Very Good
FA

 
16 Hard Captain Crunch Trad 18m Good
FA (second)

 
16 Easy Salt Flakes Trad 18m Very Good
FA (second)

 
17 Salt Flakes (left exit) Trad 18m Very Good
FA

 
19 ~19 Changeling Trad 20m Good
FA (second)

 
18 Easy Lost Bounty Trad 22m Very Good
FA

 
20 Zodiac Trad 22m Very Good
FA

 
14 Bridge Over Troubled Water Trad 22m Good
FA

 
13 Maiden Voyage Trad 16m Good
FA (second)

 
17 Hard Hard Just Right Trad 17m Very Good
FA (second)

 
17 Pillage & Plunder Trad 12m Good
FA

 
19 Peppercorn Crack Trad 12m Average
FA

 
18 Abandon Ship Trad 13m Average
FA

 
15 Blistering Barnacles Trad 12m Good
FA

 
16 The Sirens Call Trad 17m Good
FA

 
20 The Peg Leg Trad 17m Very Good
FA

 
18 Sea Legs Trad 13m Very Good
FA

 
18 Hard The Kraken Trad 18m Very Good
FA

 
18 Hard The Kraken Trad 18m Very Good
FA

 
13 Below Deck Trad 8m Don't Bother
FA

 
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Ocean Boulevard
8 Daydreamer - with Henry Garratt Trad 30m Very Good
Led on all passive pro and a nice route to shake out a hangover. Lovely.

 
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Deepwater Zawn
17 Deep Water - with Henry Garratt Trad 30m Very Good
Now my favourite 17 at freycinet. Really underrated route. Excellent gear, interesting and varied moves, great position, and a sweet juggy overhanging top out. So good.

 
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Bruny Island
Cloudy Bay Hidden Zawn The Ramp
21 Guardian Angel - with shirley Trad Average
Pulling hard on a sharp crimp with some awkward stemming. Not the best.

 
Sun 28th Aug 2022 - South Sister
Absent Friends Buttress
20 Good Friends - with Cameron, Faser, Fraser, Fletcher, Aaron Trad 12m Very Good
Short, hard, excellent finger crack.

 
20 Three Ancient Treasures - with Cameron, Faser, Fraser, Fletcher, Aaron Trad 13m Very Good
Easier than the one to the left with a harder finish. Great thin hand jams.

 
20 Absent Ascensionist - with Cameron, Faser, Fraser, Fletcher, Aaron Trad 16m Very Good
Another excellent widening crack from hands, fists, off-width.

 
18 Absent Friends - with Cameron, Faser, Fraser, Fletcher, Aaron Trad 16m Very Good
Nice hand jamming. Easy for the grade.

 
Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress
21 Tetragrammaton - with Jai Trad 40m Mega Classic
Interesting to see this gets 21 here. Nearly shit my pants heading over the overhanging wall on the abseil. First pitch gets 18 in Gerry's new guide but it's far harder than this (19 or 20). A long pitch of very sustained jamming, quite excellent. Second pitch is one of the most (no, the most) outrageous positions I've been in at Freycinet and probably ever in my short time climbing. The sequences were tricky but all there, and probably fair at 20/21. Great gear throughout the whole route. Very chuffed with the on-sight after my deliberation to attempt it. Watched a pod of dolphins swim by whilst eating cheese and crackers when we finished. A great way to finish an excellent trip.

 
Mon 8th Aug 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Mid Level)
19 Full Sail - with Jai Trad 45m Very Good
Trepidation, trepidation, trepidation. This was supposed to be the climb we did after Trucks Have Wings but that was wet, so first climb of the day was a scary looking 19. After much to-ing and fro-ing off I went up the starting solo and somewhat lichenous crack. Turned out to be one of those well-protect climbs that looks poorly protected. Saying this, it's still the hazards main wall and some minor run-outs over small gear still sailed through. Sustained difficulties and some very emotional climbing on insecure ground above RPs. What a great route though. Would repeat. Very worthwhile.

 
Sun 22nd May 2022 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Island Zawn
18 Bloody Obvious - with Rach Trad 25m Good
Nice #3 camalot jamming.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 205 ascents.