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Echo Crag

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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'.

Thin flake out the roof (#3 RP).

FA: John Allen & Tobin Sorenson, 1979

FA: Re-established after a hold snapped by Paul Hoskins., 1994

Bald orange arete from ledge just below and right of 'Fiddler' On The Roof.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Steve Lassche, 1980

Not without merit, despite the long scrambling start. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.

  1. 35m (8) Potter up the easy-angled ground for about 15m until a corner leads up and can move around right onto righthand face. Follow line left past little roof to small stance above arete.

  2. 35m (8) Around the steepening and follow the flake (could extend the previous pitch to top of flake and belay level with ceiling of Fiddler On The Roof) . From the centre of the wall go up and slightly left.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974

The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.

  1. 15m (12) 'Layback' easily up left to orange overhang at 5 metres, traverse 3 metres right and move up.

  2. 15m (12) V-chimney

  3. 12m (12) Bulging crack then continue on rib on right wall of corner-gully until crack peters out. Belay in gully.

  4. 18m (12) Traverse across right wall and climb arete and back left onto wall and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1968

Some exciting moves up the front of Touchstone's big block but hasn't caught on. The tree at the start has fallen over so start may be a little more challenging. The first pitch could make a good start for 'Touch-Type'.

  1. 30m (19) Bridge against conifer and onto face 7 metres left of 'Touchstone'. Go up right to the right side of the block. Traverse left into line up centre of block and up to ledge.

  2. 30m (-) Step left to next ledge. Follow hand-crack and wall.

FA: Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft (alt) & Garry Wills, 1980

Two very nice pitches.

  1. 25m (14) Follow the line diagonally left, quite tricky with poor protection, until able to go up easily. Up to right-facing corner on right side of huge block. Corner to Ledge.

  2. 25m (14) Up the face for 12 metres to where the wall steepens and continue up, veering slightly left to finish just right of the arete. The original finish traversed over to the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1974

FFA: Dan Kortschak & Jo Thomas, 2003

A bolted direct finish to Touchstone. Follow second ptich of Touchstone but, instead of veering left, continue directly up wall past two bolts.

FA: Mark Wood, Allan McCulloch, Paul Deacon & Simon Mentz, 2008

Seam a couple of metres right of headwall of 'Touch-Type' and just left of the finish of The Singing Wire.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

This is the name given to the most common way to finish Touchstone and isn't considered a separate climb. This was the first recorded ascent of this variant and left for documentary purposes.

FA: Dan Kortschak & Jo Thomas, 2003

Nice climbing all the way; a fitting companion route to 'Touchstone'. Follows a direct, continuous crack system in three distinct parts. Some of the first pitch is not new, but the whole climb as described is a new conception.

Start: Start 3m right of Leaden

Echo.

  1. 40m (17) Climb diagonal crack up the right wall. Continue up line when it steepens and becomes thinner until a hand traverse left allows you to step across the main corner to a ledge on the left. Follow the right-hand line (the easier left-hand line is Leaden Echo) and flake system over a little roof. Continue up flake and wall to ledge (Leaden Echo's second belay).

  2. 20m (17) Up balancy seam in wall straight above belay. This is left of Leaden Echo's final corner and right of Kieran's variant finish to 'Touchstone'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside (alt)., 2003

The major corner system.

  1. 22m (10) After a hard start, go up easily to the next overhang, which is avoided by moving onto the right wall and up to ledge.

  2. 38m (10) Traverse delicately left across corner to long flake on left wall. Up flake to ledge. Taking the corner directly is grade 11 : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth 05-10-1968.

  3. 18m (10) Chimney-corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Phillip Stranger. They later returned to remove their aid point!, 1965

Good overhang approache by abseil to final belay of The Leaden Echo.

Start up the last pitch of The Leaden Echo and then take crack through roof on right.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Jim Grellis, 1975

Taking the wall left of 'Honeycomb', it is highly likely that this is a retro-bolt of 'Adapter'.

Access by 25 metre abseil to small stance in corner.

Up wall past 2 bolts and small cams.

Apparently a rope is allowed for the descent, but not the ascent! Unfortunately it seems likely 'Mr Buffalo' is actually a retro-bolted repeat of this route.

Rappel down to a small ledge 4m under the second belay of The Leaden Echo. From this climb straight up brushed slab to cave. Traverse 3m right and finish up

FA: Patrick Alseby. Solo. Summer., 1998

Fantastic finger-crack up the righthand wall of 'The Leaden Echo'.

Start: Either scramble in from the right to a stance or abseil 35 metres from the anchor above 'Mr Buffalo'.

Follow lefthand weakness through bulge then move left and climb the pencil-thin crack through the overlap and beyond.

FA: Tim Beaman & Chris Peisker, 1976

Great flake line which can be escaped at half-height but why would you?

Follow left weakness through bulge (as for Honeycomb) then up flake-line above until it rejoins arete. Continue to top, taking care with some hollow rock.

FA: Phillip Stranger & John Moore, 1967

Warning Flora and Fauna: Active Bees

The obvious right-hand companion to 'Nativity'.

Start as for Nativity but take right-hand weakness through bulge. Up bulging seam directly above to arete and up to re-join Nativity.

Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular.

Starting just right of arete, climb pretty orange wall through small overlap. Continue steeply up wall to small stance and rap anchor.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Fred From, 1979

The desperate, unprotected start and the huge detached block higher up make this an unattractive proposition.

Start just left of 'Lone Pine Corner'.

Up face, moving right to overlap Over and up break between orange and black, past flake to top.

FA: Paul Aubrey & Dave Fearnley, 1980

Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner.

FA: Keith, Timothy & Fiona Lockwood, 1993

Use whatever you can to roll onto ledge above roof, and then climb corner. The grunt can be avoided to the right at about 12.

Start: Right of 'Lone Pine Corner' is another sweet little corner with a steep roof in the way at ground level.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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