Ascents by Kai

Left variant

Involuntarily last route of the morning. Fate had decided that I had to climb the summit again. Forgotten water bottle Well, I thought to myself, whether I take the normal route or the hiking trail, it doesn't make that much difference

Failed to onsight it because I missed the best hold of the route at in the overhanging section

Years ago I climbed that with my wife. Mossy entry but worth it.

#alzheimer-flash link up with 2nd pitch of 'Frühsportweg'

Rope soloing makes it easy for the mind to climb this crack connection into the 2nd pitch of 'Frühsportweg'. Lead ascents should be protected with additional gear. Friends may come in handy. Overall a good line. Enjoyed it. #onsight

Just the first pitch to switch into 'Via Andreas'. Always fun this route. Starts steeply and challenges the leisure climber right at the beginning.

#dawnpatrol

Steep climbing with exceptional views but the rock quality is not the best. Every flake hast to be used with care. #alzheimer-flash actually I'm quite unsure if I climbed the correct line. There are so many bolts... Started at the Bühlerhaken right of Friederle (on top of the small pillar) and climbed straight to the overhang.

Again steep climbing with exceptional views but the rock quality is not the best. Nevertheless I loved it and enjoyed it very much.

easy

Hard boulder start. Had to fight to get it done.

Well, now that I knew which sector I was at climbing was less surprising Onsight

First route of the day, started with the sunrise and I got the wrong sector and quickly realised that the crux was harder than I thought. I probably avoided the crux a bit to the left and then switched back to the bolts on the right. Onsight, #earlybird

I just could not pass and "had" to spice up my hike from the Spullersee, via the Gehrengrat to the Formarinsee with some climbing. Thanks to Thorsten for the last minute info. So I hurried and ran from the bus stop to the beginning of the east ridge - at least to the Ditteshütte. There I met 2 hikers enjoying the view and asked for directions. I was right so I hurried on. While passing by, I heard the accusatory questions or statements: "Alone? Without a rope?". "Yes, without rope!" I answered and was around the corner. Due to the many cow paths, I then unfortunately got a little off track, but after 35 minutes I was at the start of the first pitch, the water grooves. I bypassed these in the easier terrain on the right side and made it harder than it had to be due to a poor choice of route. To make matters worse, I hit my shin badly when my left foot slipped away. Bad omen.

The 2nd pitch (according to Panico), then presented me with the first challenge. With the hiking half shoes, the way at the bolts was too tricky for me and I considered whether I should turn back again. In any case, I had an appointment with my family at the Freiburger Hütte. But I didn't want to give up so easily (or rather, I was too lazy to descend again) and was able to get around to the left, much easier, via a small ramp. At the first belaystation I met the rope team I had waited for before, in order not to be exposed to falling rocks. Probably a mountain guide with two guests in tow. They let me overtake then and the hint the passage at the bolts would have been the most difficult section, calmed me but immensely.

So on to the next ascent (4th pitch). There I let myself be seduced by the clear trail traces on a narrow band in the north side. I had still seen the bolts of the belaystation, but didn't turn back. Thus, the wayfinding was entirely up to me, because there were no other bolts there for orientation. Back at the ridge, the mountain guide had also already caught up and said there was always more than one possible way. His word in God's ear.

After this excursion into the unknown the next hurdle came.The supposed start to the 6th pitch was somewhat poor in good holds, which I would have liked to have in the absence of a rope. But with patience and confidence, I found the right step for the right foot and the matter was nailed. It's usually the feet that count, right? After that it went like clockwork and I made such good progress that the impressions were not lasting.

It became interesting again in the 9th pitch. Here you get to climb down a steep step and then switch to a very narrow ridge edge. The descent was well doable, but the balancing act did not leave me cold and I dared not quite upright over it. On the right and on the left it dropped in any case neatly deep. Then followed the slab of the 10th pitch, which I dishonorably simply bypassed to the right. The following climbing contained again a downswing and then came the last ascent to the summit cross which I reached after about 55 minutes.

Quickly made a few snapshots of the surroundings and ate a banana and on it continued in about 3.5 hours over the Gehrengrat, to the Freiburger Hütte and finally to the bus stop at the Formarinsee. In total about 14km, +880Hm, -900Hm.

And again a mega rope length. Very long and the rope routing is a challenge. Maybe it makes sense to divide the first pitch to not have so much drag on the rope. But it was okay. The hardest part is the beginning. There are plenty of bolts. That is quite plaisir. After that, the bolt spacing becomes greater, but the climbing is also easier. Which does not mean that it is less appealing. The second pitch I absolutely still have to climb. Volunteer belayers ahead

What can I say? Awesome route, bright blue sky and great company. What more could you want? The highlight of the whole thing was the exit with subsequent lunch, where we enjoyed the panorama to the max.

The rating of the first pitch seems more something too low in the guidebook. For us, it did not feel easier than the last pitch.

However, the route is definitely recommended.

Etwas inhomogen

#lastrouteoftheday

Hure geil

Hä? Thorsten

Crimpy

#warmup

Free climbed all easy parts that felt save enough. It's quite scary if the next anchor of the via ferrata is some meters below so I used the iron ladders in the difficult sections.

Nice but very short via ferrata. Beginners will have to deal with their fear at the airy spots.

Fun fact: had to remove the hang tag from the via ferrata set I own for a long time. The tag states: "in compliance with the DAV safety recommendations from 2012" So finally used it before end of life

I don't understand why we need those via ferrate. Of course it is nice to climb something in absence of a partner but free climbing is so much more fun and less dangerous.

BTW: Right of the via ferrata a good looking slab waits for some bolts

#lastrouteoftheday

#teardown

#setup

This is not a 4+. Good holds to far for kids.

#teardown

#setup

Unfortunately the route names are not readable anymore. I'm pretty we did that route but I have no idea if trick was the second first pitch we did.

Always fun! Jugs for 40m while enjoying the sunset. Got to the grand final with the last sun rays. #lastrouteoftheday

#cleanup

According to the Panico guidebook we did a combination of Po and... No idea how Po continues if one heads right after the third bolt. IMHO the topo from Panico is wrong. #alzheimer-flash