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Classic guidebook-cover worthy wall climb with a hell of a lot of air below you on the runouts.

To rap-in - locate 2 rings a few metres further down the hill (east) from the Disco Non Stop Party arete. Fix a rope to rings and rap 50m down the route, taking the R fork (facing in, the L fork is for The Obvious Elbow (of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter), bouncing to stay in contact with the wall (and pre-placing a few draws to direct the rope) to a small ledge and semi-hanging 2 x bolt belay. You can also climb up to this ledge via the first couple of bolts of The Obvious Elbow (accessed via Thomson & Thomson Traverse) if you don't have a rap rope, or if you prefer to climb this as a 5m longer pitch from the most cushy ledge (and are sensible with rollers/extenders).

13 bolts, with an optional 0.3/0.4 cam in a slot near the top (to mitigate an exciting runout).

Route history

First ascent: Michael Law

Warnings

3 Mar 2023 Fixed Gear: Bolt problems Resolved

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.57572, 150.33878

Grade citation

25 Assigned grade
25
25
27 [26 - 28] ++ grAId

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 93 from 28 ratings.

Difficulty - 25

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 3 ratings.

Suggested Grade

25

Based on 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 2
Flash 4
Red point 4
Tick 3
Pink point 3
Top rope 2
Attempt 23

Comment keywords

pinch epic technical face rest reachy interesting dynamic easy traverse feet scary fall runout intimidating ripper brilliant amazing great awesome cool fantastic incredible beautiful rad stoked good classic classy enjoyable nice hard crux pumped sustained sandbag

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 18 May
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