Serious business. Originally an aid line (C2) named after the local geology, then freed by Martin in 2015. The free version starts from the ledge above Diederet, goes up to the break, then traverses right into the crackproper. Straight up the unrelenting crack until it terminates then traverse left and up the arête to run it out 8m to the top. The aid version starts 10m below. Start as for Diederet then move right to the thin seam. The original(?) belay bolts at the end of the finger crack were removed for the FFA rendering the aid finish undetermined. According to the 2007 Telemark guide the aid route follows the same path as the free route out left to the arete, apparently on bathooks.
1985 | First ascent: Øyvind Moss & Gunnar Austreheim |
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3 Oct 2015 | First free ascent: Martin Skaar Olslund |
9-/9 R | Assigned grade |
9-/9 | ★★★private |
This area is predominately a trad area and should be respected as one. New bolting is currently banned. Be aware that the bolts on the old routes (Petzl Cheville) are unsafe, and require one-for-one replacement.
Author(s): R.Carlsen und L. V. Wagelid
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9788299776981
A comprehensive guidebook covering 34 of the main sport climbing areas in Norway, detailing many 1,000's of routes.
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