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Serious business. Originally an aid line (C2) named after the local geology, then freed by Martin in 2015. The free version starts from the ledge above Diederet, goes up to the break, then traverses right into the crackproper. Straight up the unrelenting crack until it terminates then traverse left and up the arête to run it out 8m to the top. The aid version starts 10m below. Start as for Diederet then move right to the thin seam. The original(?) belay bolts at the end of the finger crack were removed for the FFA rendering the aid finish undetermined. According to the 2007 Telemark guide the aid route follows the same path as the free route out left to the arete, apparently on bathooks.

Route history

1985First ascent: Øyvind Moss & Gunnar Austreheim
3 Oct 2015First free ascent: Martin Skaar Olslund

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 59.36596, 8.97736

Grade citation

9-/9 R Assigned grade
9-/9 private

ethic

This area is predominately a trad area and should be respected as one. New bolting is currently banned. Be aware that the bolts on the old routes (Petzl Cheville) are unsafe, and require one-for-one replacement.

inherited from Gygrestolen

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Comment keywords

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): R.Carlsen und L. V. Wagelid

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9788299776981

A comprehensive guidebook covering 34 of the main sport climbing areas in Norway, detailing many 1,000's of routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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