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Gamla

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Access issues inherited from Gygrestolen

The land owner is not happy with climbers, so please tread lightly. The approach trail is on the northern side of the mountain, ensuring access is difficult early season when snow lies above 200m.

Descent notes

Escape rings available above Tjuvstart (35m), Babyface (20m) or Telemarksuiten (30m to ledge, 40m to ground).

Ethic inherited from Gygrestolen

This area is predominately a trad area and should be respected as one. New bolting is currently banned. Be aware that the bolts on the old routes (Petzl Cheville) are unsafe, and require one-for-one replacement.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Starts left and down from Babyface on a boulder above the void. Traverse directly left to the weakness. Follow the weakness with nautral gear and 2 FHs to reach the left diagonal crack (Delikatessen). Move right past the 3rd FH past some thin moves to the top. Tree belay.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1983

Start as for Babyface, but take the left diagonal crack around the corner to the top.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1983

The moderate classic. Scramble 10m up and left of Den Sorte Kamin to reach a small left facing corner. Follow the corner system to the top. Bolted escape belay.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1983

A classic flashback to mountaineering. Starts at the north end of Gamla. Follow the fixed ropes up to the large area below the face. Start on top of the large block at the entrance of the chimney. Climb inwards pass 3 FHs to reach a chockstone ledge then up the generous crack to the top. Possible to split the pitch in two.

Starts off the Den Sorte Kamin starting block and chimneys directly up to the top. Maybe the ballsiest route in Østlandet? Totally unprotected?

FFA: Geir Grimeland

Start off the same ledge as Den Sorte Kamin. Step over the void to gain the diederal. Follow this to reach a small ledge, then up the face to the summit.

FA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 May 2016

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 25 Sep 2016

Scramble up to the ledge under the NW face. Follows the large corner on the left to the ledge. There is a loose block in the middle of the route that stubbornly remains.

FFA: Øyvind Moss

Serious business. Originally an aid line (C2) named after the local geology, then freed by Martin in 2015. The free version starts from the ledge above Diederet, goes up to the break, then traverses right into the crackproper. Straight up the unrelenting crack until it terminates then traverse left and up the arête to run it out 8m to the top. The aid version starts 10m below. Start as for Diederet then move right to the thin seam. The original(?) belay bolts at the end of the finger crack were removed for the FFA rendering the aid finish undetermined. According to the 2007 Telemark guide the aid route follows the same path as the free route out left to the arete, apparently on bathooks.

FA: Øyvind Moss & Gunnar Austreheim, 1985

FFA: Martin Skaar Olslund, 3 Oct 2015

FFA: Aleksej Jaruta, Aug 2018

  1. Starts as for Telemarksuiten. At the horizontal break 20 m, traverse right along the weakness to reach a DBB.

  2. Continue following the weakness as it arcs upwards towards the summit.

FA: Øyvind Moss & Ketil Strømme, 1987

Starts in the centre, at the base of the NW face. Follow the offwidth turned finger crack on the slab to the ledge. Follow the large weakness 3m R of the corner to the large ledge. Escape via the large tree.

Start as for Flakdiederet, but at the ledge, step right past the small tree to the thin hand crack. Powerful jamming up the vertical, then left snaking weakness to finish up the chimney to ledge and natural belay. Escape via the large tree.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1991

Starts up Ilddåpen, then traverses left after the dihedral to reach a stance below the overhanging finger crack. Follow the sustained crack on good gear to easier ground. Classic.

FA: Christopher Glastonbury, 14 Sep 2014

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 Apr 2015

Starts on the ledge above Hylleopptakket. Straight up the obvious crack to the top. Natural anchor.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1984

The obvious crack leading up to the ledge. The left of the double cracks.

FA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 May 2016

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Joakim Louis Sæther, 28 May 2016

The other obvious weakness and corner, 3m right of Innflytning. Traverse left to the ledge.

Possibly the longest single pitch in Telemark. Starts as for Hylleopptakket and continues straight up the dihedral. Meander up the face past 2 FHs before reaching the headwall. Strenuously past 3 more FHs to gain the excellent crack and summit.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 8 May 2016

Starts in the chimney in the middle of the SW wall and follows the obvious but unlikely chimney all the way up. Could be split into multiple pitches to reduce drag.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1984

The legend came to town. Variant finish to Vestveggen. Originally done in two pitches. Split right and up to the ledge, then follow the offwidth to the top.

FFA: Tom Randall & Joakim Sæther, 17 May 2016

Starts as for Vestveggen, then immediately moves right around the arête to follow the weakness. Hop over a few ledges to reach the obvious corner to DRB.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1984

Up first two ringbolts of Mossekspressen, then move left past an old Petzl Cheville bolt (to be replaced) to link into Tjuvstart.

Moss' magnum opus. Brilliant route up the blank face and arête. Rebolted in 2005 with unrecessed rings and an unwanted DBB 28m up. Do the original route and continue up on easy ground with optional wires to the DRB at the top.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1988

Scramle down 10m around the corner from Mossekspressen. Up seam for 25m until it terminates, then swing into the weakness 2m to the left. Up this past the FH (Petzl Cheville) to the left facing corner and the top.

FA: Bjørn Gjelsten & O.R. Jespersen, 1995

Easiest to rap in from the top, right in the centre of the south-eastern wall through the blueberry patch. Start off the block trending right to meet the left arcing corner. A few hard moves to the top. Gear is thin, but ample.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Torstein Øygarden, 23 Aug 2015

FA: Christopher Glastonbury, 25 Sep 2016

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Author(s): R.Carlsen und L. V. Wagelid

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9788299776981

A comprehensive guidebook covering 34 of the main sport climbing areas in Norway, detailing many 1,000's of routes.

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