Showing all 25 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
8- | ★★ Evnukken
Starts left and down from Babyface on a boulder above the void. Traverse directly left to the weakness. Follow the weakness with nautral gear and 2 FHs to reach the left diagonal crack (Delikatessen). Move right past the 3rd FH past some thin moves to the top. Tree belay. FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1983 | 20m, 3 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Delikatessen
Start as for Babyface, but take the left diagonal crack around the corner to the top. FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1983 | 20m | |||
5+ | ★★ Babyface
The moderate classic. Scramble 10m up and left of Den Sorte Kamin to reach a small left facing corner. Follow the corner system to the top. Bolted escape belay. FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1983 | 20m | |||
4+ | ★★ Den Sorte Kamin
A classic flashback to mountaineering. Starts at the north end of Gamla. Follow the fixed ropes up to the large area below the face. Start on top of the large block at the entrance of the chimney. Climb inwards pass 3 FHs to reach a chockstone ledge then up the generous crack to the top. Possible to split the pitch in two. | 30m, 3 | |||
Outer Edge
Starts off the Den Sorte Kamin starting block and chimneys directly up to the top. Maybe the ballsiest route in Østlandet? Totally unprotected? FFA: Geir Grimeland | 20m | ||||
7+ | ★ Nysgjerrigper
Start off the same ledge as Den Sorte Kamin. Step over the void to gain the diederal. Follow this to reach a small ledge, then up the face to the summit. FA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 May 2016 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 25 Sep 2016 | 20m, 2 | |||
4- | ★★ Diederet
Scramble up to the ledge under the NW face. Follows the large corner on the left to the ledge. There is a loose block in the middle of the route that stubbornly remains. FFA: Øyvind Moss | 10m | |||
9-/9 PROT:R | ★★★ Telemarksuiten
Serious business. Originally an aid line (C2) named after the local geology, then freed by Martin in 2015. The free version starts from the ledge above Diederet, goes up to the break, then traverses right into the crackproper. Straight up the unrelenting crack until it terminates then traverse left and up the arête to run it out 8m to the top. The aid version starts 10m below. Start as for Diederet then move right to the thin seam. The original(?) belay bolts at the end of the finger crack were removed for the FFA rendering the aid finish undetermined. According to the 2007 Telemark guide the aid route follows the same path as the free route out left to the arete, apparently on bathooks. FA: Øyvind Moss & Gunnar Austreheim, 1985 FFA: Martin Skaar Olslund, 3 Oct 2015 | 40m | |||
FR:8b+ | Telemarksuiten DF
FFA: Aleksej Jaruta, Aug 2018 | 40m | |||
AID:A2+ | ★★★ Weekendsnacks
FA: Øyvind Moss & Ketil Strømme, 1987 | 50m, 2 | |||
6+ | ★ Flakdiederet
Starts in the centre, at the base of the NW face. Follow the offwidth turned finger crack on the slab to the ledge. Follow the large weakness 3m R of the corner to the large ledge. Escape via the large tree. | 20m | |||
8 | ★★ Samurairisset
Start as for Flakdiederet, but at the ledge, step right past the small tree to the thin hand crack. Powerful jamming up the vertical, then left snaking weakness to finish up the chimney to ledge and natural belay. Escape via the large tree. FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1991 | 20m | |||
9- | ★★★ Blodbekk
Starts up Ilddåpen, then traverses left after the dihedral to reach a stance below the overhanging finger crack. Follow the sustained crack on good gear to easier ground. Classic. FA: Christopher Glastonbury, 14 Sep 2014 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 Apr 2015 | 38m | |||
7+ | ★★★ Ilddåpen
Starts on the ledge above Hylleopptakket. Straight up the obvious crack to the top. Natural anchor. FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1984 | 35m | |||
5 | ★ Innflytning
The obvious crack leading up to the ledge. The left of the double cracks. FA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 May 2016 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Joakim Louis Sæther, 28 May 2016 | 10m | |||
5 | ★★ Hylleopptakket
The other obvious weakness and corner, 3m right of Innflytning. Traverse left to the ledge. | 10m | |||
8 | ★ Besteggen
Possibly the longest single pitch in Telemark. Starts as for Hylleopptakket and continues straight up the dihedral. Meander up the face past 2 FHs before reaching the headwall. Strenuously past 3 more FHs to gain the excellent crack and summit. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 8 May 2016 | 43m, 5 | |||
7- | ★★ Vestveggen
Starts in the chimney in the middle of the SW wall and follows the obvious but unlikely chimney all the way up. Could be split into multiple pitches to reduce drag. FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1984 | 37m | |||
8- | Telemarkskanalen
The legend came to town. Variant finish to Vestveggen. Originally done in two pitches. Split right and up to the ledge, then follow the offwidth to the top. FFA: Tom Randall & Joakim Sæther, 17 May 2016 | 40m, 2 | |||
6- | ★★ Tjuvstart
Starts as for Vestveggen, then immediately moves right around the arête to follow the weakness. Hop over a few ledges to reach the obvious corner to DRB. FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1984 | 38m | |||
★ Tjuvekspressen
Up first two ringbolts of Mossekspressen, then move left past an old Petzl Cheville bolt (to be replaced) to link into Tjuvstart. | 35m, 3 | ||||
8/8+ | ★★★ Mossekspressen
Moss' magnum opus. Brilliant route up the blank face and arête. Rebolted in 2005 with unrecessed rings and an unwanted DBB 28m up. Do the original route and continue up on easy ground with optional wires to the DRB at the top. FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1988 | 35m, 14 | |||
AID:A2 | Frosken i Brønnen
Scramle down 10m around the corner from Mossekspressen. Up seam for 25m until it terminates, then swing into the weakness 2m to the left. Up this past the FH (Petzl Cheville) to the left facing corner and the top. FA: Bjørn Gjelsten & O.R. Jespersen, 1995 | 40m, 1 | |||
7+ | ★★ Blueberry Lane
Easiest to rap in from the top, right in the centre of the south-eastern wall through the blueberry patch. Start off the block trending right to meet the left arcing corner. A few hard moves to the top. Gear is thin, but ample. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Torstein Øygarden, 23 Aug 2015 | 25m | |||
8 | ★★ Moirere
FA: Christopher Glastonbury, 25 Sep 2016 | 38m |
Showing all 25 routes.