Routes in Africa for selected grade

Climbed on top rope only.

Climbed on top rope only.

Climbed on top rope only.

Climbed on top rope only.

The first small outcrop. Seated start on right side. Move up and left, finishing left of the top.

Same start as 1. Traverse left to easy ground.

Left of 1 and 2. Start on the right end of the bigger cliff on low, big jugs. Move straight up, mantling the lip at the top.

Around the left of the main cave are some low jugs. Seated start as low and left as possible. Traverse right, then up and around the corner, finishing standing in the cave.

19,21

Sustained.

great finger crack on pitch 2!

Excellent route with technical slab climbing on tiny edges and smears. New approach pitch - go left around to the arete and climb to the original start past 3 bolts, much better than the original chimney approach. Rebolted in 2022 by Robert Powell.

2 pitch route up a dihedral. Bolted with old aluminium caving bolts! Probably best avoided until re-bolted. The location of the route in the existing guidebook is wrong, it's one dihedral further right.

Pitch 1 - Grade 22/23 for the short. Hard and slightly runout friction slab climbing. Harder than the Rhino Horn. 55m. Pitch 2 - Grade 17, amazing climbing up the dyke. 55m.

Amazing climbing on great rock with perfect positive crimps. Well bolted. Pitch 1 - 21/22 for shorties. Amazing climbing on good crimps and great rock. 50m. Pitch 2 - 16. More excellent climbing at a less steep angle.

Climb the chimney and go to the left to find a white rock spot. Follow the tricky face climb to the anchor.

Bolted for short climbers. Tricky balance start, good friction up to the anchor.

Friction climbing, super small grips, to get to the ledge and some more friction climbing with the crux move of the route, with a nice hold for your right hand a tiny crimp for your left hand.

Great friction climb, tight on fingers, bring your fingers with an extra thick skin layer.

On the corner of Groothoek gully is a buttress with a tree on top. It is possible to scramble up it from the left. Just left of the buttress is a wide water streak right of a small (30cm) right facing corner. The original climb starts 30m directly above the right facing corner on a large ledge which can be accessed by traversing left from the above mentioned buttress. There is supposed to be a "very good direct start (17)" to reach this point.

1. 30m (21) Scramble up on the right of the water streak to a point about halfway up the water streak where you can traverse over it on a wide ledge.Climb the small right facing corner and then the face above it to a wide ledge. It also looks possible to climb the right facing corner from the bottom starting in a small cubbyhole at ground level if it is dry.

2. 30m (17) The belay ledge is 5m above the wide belay ledge for P2 of Black Eagle Crag. From the left of the ledge, traverse 2m left and then 3m up then continue diagonally up right for about 6m to a break leading diagonally up left for about 15m to an awkward step. Continue up to a large ledge. Sustained grade 15 climbing.

3. 8m (10) Traverse left towards pile of blocks at a point just before the ledge goes around the corner. Start by downclimbing about 1m and traverse left on excellent footholds and tiny handholds to avoid a short section of loose rocks. Belay just before the pile of blocks. It may be possible to combine this pitch with the previous one if rope drag is not too bad.

4. 30m (13) Continue up going diagonally right. Climb over a short ridge with big steps going up and right. Belay on ledge.

5. 30m (15) Continue up tending left to a point under the left hand extreme of the large overhangs. Swing left around the corner using good holds on a high ledge. Continue up in corner to the top.

Note: Pitches 4 and 5 are a variation of the original line that provides better climbing. The original line climbed much further towards the right to a grass and aloe ramp and then up various corners to a ledge leading to the right, finishing 4m left of Chukamisa.

This route climbs directly up the middle of “red sail” (same face as Vavoom) and breaks through the left extremity of the top overhangs

1. Scramble / rope up to big grassy ledge. 60m 13

2. Start at the base of an obvious crack feature in the middle of the wall. Climb the excellent crack until it ends after 20m and then trend up and right through 4 bulges with rails in between to a stance on a good ledge about 15m to the right of the start. (55m) 19

3. Traverse up and left, then climb on the right side of a prominent yellow pillar. Stance on top of the pillar on the left (good ledge) .20m 15

4. Step right off the ledge, climb up 4m then climb left and up until able to break through first overhangs to a good jam. Continue straight up and slightly left to pull through final overhangs on cape style jugs. Then climb straight up to the top on easy rock (60m) 21

Descent

1. Scramble 10m down main gulley between gasoline wall and red sail wall to a good yellowwood. Rap 50m off this.

2. Good ledge on true right (west wall) on red sail wall. Fixed nut and good thread. Rap 40m to grassy ledge.

3. Walk to massive yellowwood on far eastern corner of ledge rap off this to ground – 60m

Start just to the left of lightning bird, a boulder problem to the ledge, rap off the tree.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Starts left of Too Legit to Quit. Are you👆 going left or right at the roof?

open project through the roof, estimation 23 to confirm

Starts just left of Intrusion, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.

This route starts 25m to the left of Where Eagles Dare and joins that route at the last pitch.

Start 10m to the right of Where Eagles Dare at a block. Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND. Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND.

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

Start as for Big Dreamers Never Die.

1. Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

2. Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

3. Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

4. Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it. Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoid the climb in winter months.

Start just to the left of Eye Of Osiris and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.

Straight up the face of the bulge. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

The line of bolts following the off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is direct start. Variation pitch is a grade 23.

1. 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge

2. 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop

3. 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out(Climb for the view)

1. ** 23, 22m Starts to the left of the elephant's trunk. On balance, small holds on a relatively smooth surface. Crux 1/3 of the way up, then straight forward to the top

2. ** 19, 23m Start right to avoid loose slab, then left under the boulder, continue left over dassie shit - worst section on this climb

3. * 18, 23m Starts from a small cave through which on can see under the elephant to the other side of the rock face. Route moves over to the left past the elephant's ear.

4. * 17, 22m Route moves directly up to just short of the top.

5. ** 15, 10m Short easy finish.

Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good.

Notes:

1. This climb is poorly protected. In some places don’t even think of falling.

2. Micro’s are essential.

Scramble up to the start of BAPM. On the orange face up and to the left of the candleflame is a bolt. Start 5m to the left of BAPM, below the obvious corner.

1. 35m 22R: Climb the corner to a small ledge. Traverse the orange face past the difficult-to-clip bolt (tricky), to the right arête. Climb straight up past another bolt to an overhang. Pull strenuously through the overhang on the right and diagonally up the ramp to the right in the groove above. Climb easily to a tree belay. Scramble to the base of BAPM's second pitch.

2. 22m 21 Climb the crack just to the left of BAPM until it peters out. Continue to the right and up past a bolt. Take care over the huge blocks and lichen and finish as for BAPM.

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of the route from where its straightforward to scramble down.

BAPM takes a fairly direct line up the buttress opposite the deep 'pothole pool'. Scramble up to small flat overhangs on the lower grey section of the buttress.

1. 15m 10 Climb past the overhangs on the left, step to the right and continue straight up to a large ledge below steep red and black rock.

2. 25m 19 Climb up 2m then undercling to the right to the left hand side of two cracks which form the candleflame shape as seen from below. Move up to the top of the 'flame' and continue up to the right to belay on a small ledge next to a tree.

3. 25m 7 Move around to the right into the main corner, which is followed to large ledges (this portion is common with MARTHA). Climb to the right to the ledge at the foot of the appealing final crack, which runs up a zone of red rock right of an overhang.

4. 25m 21 Follow the crack as it curves up to the right. When it fades, move up and to the left beneath the grey overhang. Traverse to the left past a dubious block until the top can be reached by climbing steep grey, lichen-covered rock (18A1).

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of pitch 2 from where its straightforward to scramble down.

2. It makes sense to do this route in two pitches – scramble past the 1st pitch on the right, and link pitches 2 and 3.