Easy slab starting from on top of the boulders to the right of Vittoria's Secret. An excellent moderate pitch as an alternative to the hard 1st pitch of Vittoria's Secret to access the top dyke pitch of Vittoria's Secret.
Fun climbing. Climb the face on various good grips up to the big ledge, then you move over to the left side to use the same two bolts from Wonder Woman.
Not so clean route and not for top rope due the friction of the rope. Wall 3m left of Von Hinten. Up obvious weakness past 2 bolts. Then step left around edge past 3rd bolt. Single ring bolt belay / off. Major rope drag, poor rock, not recommended.
Set:Hasso Gantze, W. Heuschkel & K. Heuschkel, 2010
The climb is situated just to the right of the Eierkrantz buttress, between Snowflake and Wafer Crack. When looking at the face from below there is an orange scar at the bottom left. Just right of the top of the orange scar there are two prominent cracks going to the top of the face, the left one stopping just short of the top. The climb follows the left hand crack about halfway and then the right hand crack to the top.
Scramble up to the ledge where Snowflake starts. Easy if you choose the right line but rope up if in doubt. Start by scrambling up diagonally left to below some roofs. Traverse right on a ledge and another difficult move gets you to easier ground.
23m (15) Start behind the tree on the left. There is a small cave just left of it. Climb up just right of the recess behind the tree to a small roof and a big rail. Traverse right for 5m and then diagonally left up to a grassy ledge.
28m (13) From the right hand side of the ledge there is a crack leading up, climb this for 6m past one hard move with a good small cam. Traverse right on a good ledge for 5m. Further up the face there is a right facing open book. Climb towards this (this part is easy but pretty run-out). Climb the open book to a good ledge behind a block.
26m (12) Traverse left into the left crack and climb it to a small stance on a block on the right-hand side of the crack at a point where the crack becomes vegetated and very overhanging.
32m (13) Traverse right (exposed) for 9m until just before the right crack and then up to a ledge.
29m (11) Climb up and out at the short chimney at the top. Scramble to top.
About 10m left of Angelica is a small buttress against the main face about 10m high. Start in the corner between the buttress and the main face on the left side of the buttress.
45m (13) From the top of the buttress, follow a faint crack that starts just left of the buttress to a small overhang (6x1m). Pass the overhangs on the right and continue up to a ledge belew a short 2m wide roof with a small tree on the left. (There is an optional belay ledge about halfway up this pitch).
10m (12) From the right of the ledge continue up corner. To a small square ledge below a piton.
40m (15) Climb the corner until a point before it becomes overhanging. Traverse right on good ledges to the nose and then diagonally left to top.
Note: The climb can be done in two pitches by scrambling to the top of the buttress (easy on the right) and then combining pitches 1 and 2.
Climb 2m to a small ledge, weasel your way (left or right) of a small chimney trending up and right follow you nose up to a good ledge with a tree, continue up on the left hand side of the tree.
FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Delpoort Botma, Courtney Robinson, Mathias De Beenhouwer
FA:Nic Grech-Cumbo, Delpoort Botma, Courtney Robinson & Mathias de Beenhouwer, Jul 2023
21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.
12m 15 Climb up a crack 3m right of the obvious corner under a huge roof. Traverse right into a cubbyhole and then continue right for a few more meters to a large ledge with a great view of the river.
15m 15. Climb a cool corner and head straight up to a convenient abseil tree.
Start 2 meters left of Big Fig Direct. Climb up on loose looking blocks for 5 meters then diagonally right to the tree. Keep left of the tree using it where necessary. Strait up in crack above tree to convenient belay and ab tree.
FA:Sarel Petrus, Reinette Oelofsen-Muller & Jenine Jansen van Vuuren
Start in the small recess. Climb the corner and move out to the arete when possible. Follow the crack line and then pull through some overhangs to the top. Easy but technical first 10 meters.
Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18.
(Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)
The conical mass comprising the tower is split about two-third of the way up by a well-defined grassy ledge which divides the climb into two separate portions. Viewed from the East, the monotony of the horizontal slabs is seen to be broken by two vertical cracks - one towards the right on the lower section and one almost on the left ridge of the section. The route generally follows these cracks except for a deviation, onto the left-hand face near the top of the lower crack below the grass ledge.
21m (E2) Start on face to left of crack and proceed straight up over horizontal ledges.
12m (E1) A short chimney leads to a grass ledge below a chockstone.
15m (E2) Ascend chimney to a higher grass ledge. Proceed to the right of the main chimney over a face broken with horizontal cracks.
21m (E3) Dassie traverses to the left for about 3m, then proceed upwards to a stance immediately below a series of overhangs. A traverse to the right from this point to rejoin the main crack bypasses the overhangs and a further short ascent leads to a stance on top of some prominent blocks.
12m (F2) There is a delicate take-off to the left of a large flake. Further ascent in the main crack leads to a ledge below the final overhangs marking the last barrier to the grass ledge.
30m (F3) Traverse to the left in an extremele exposed position then delicately ascend a face to a point immediately below the main grass ledge and about 18m horizontally to the left of the main crack. A pull-up over a small overhang completes this section.
21m (E3) The route follows the left esction of the chimney straight up for about 18m where a step across is taken to the right and the ascent continues to the right of a narrow crack where a stance is availabl below an overhang.
12m (F3) A tricky take-off into the crack on the left which is then followed to a ledge above which two further cracks, about 3m apart, split a massive block. The one on the left is probably the easier of the two but is a hard pull-up.
14m (E3) Pass through the "worm hole" leading to a block which is traverse to the right. thence up a crack. A traverse to the left, ascent of three short recesses, a further short traverse back to the right and a climb to the top of a huge chockstone brings the climber to a point immediately above the last belay.
21m (E1) An easy traverse to the left extends to the outer ridge of the tower. Here the route proceeds up a crack about 5m in height lying back from the outer buttress and leads to a stance on a block from which the summit section is visible.
18m (E3) Traverse to the right to the final column of rock, where a pull-up leads to a ledge passing round to the right in a very exposed position from which the grass ledge is visible vertically beneath. This traverse lands the climber on a grass ledge below a crack from which an adequate belay can be given.
30m (D) The final pitch is virtually a scramble to the summit taking a route tending to the right.
1km east of the Zimbabwe climb one can see a ver prominent V-shaped rock formation, centered by a huge dome. Running up the right-hand flank of the “V” one can see a number of open book shaped cracks. Counting the very first small open book, the climb starts to the right at the bottom of the seventh, the last open book shaped crack. Viewed from close range, one can see a black streak running down the right-hand side of the open book.
20m (F2) 15m up open book and traverse 3m left and up to tree belay.
25m (F1) Start face to left of crack. Climb to good ledge under yellow overhangs (two mantleshelfs). Dassie crawl right along ledge for 4m. Ascend crack 3m. Ledge and piton belay.
40m (F2). Climb chimney and step out left to ledge. Ascend corner directly above and follow crack to just under grass ledge, make delicate right-hand traverse and up to tree belay.
35m (F1) Climb up centre of grey face to piton and flake belay under overhangs.
20m (F3 A2) Walk 8m to right and ascend short chimney to upper overhangs. Move through overhangs (A2) (one piton left in place). Follow crack to tree belay.
30m (E3) Walk right along ledge past yellow boulder to crack and ascend crack to ledge and belay.
25m (E3) Climb crack and chimney to neck.
25m (E3) Ascend centre of face 29m and scramble to top.
20m (F2) Scramble up bushy ramp. Start in left corner. 2m up step to the right. Climb to ledge. Continue up open book until it is possible to move out to the left.
40m (F2) Climb face above to roof. Traverse right and up to ledge.
40m Walk left below huge roof.
45m (E3) Climb diagonally right across face.
Scramble 50m up and right into original recess line.
40m (F3) Climb recess. Place chock high up, climb down 2m and traverse right. Ascend face to ledge. Chimney to top.
The route follows a line 130m right of Afternoon Ascension and 15m left of a huge boulder.
30m (F2+) Start at the base of a crack and corner and climb straight up the crack. Climb up as high as possible, then traverse to the left onto the face. Move up and traverse to the right to an obvious ledge.
24m (F3 A2) Climb diagonally upward, passing over a small overhang, for 20m until stopped by an overhanging rock. Traverse to the right underdeath (sic) this rock to a recess and an overhanging crack. Climb the crack (A2) to easier rock and a small stance. It may be advisable to divide this pitch into two to reduce rope-drag.
40m (F1) Traverse right, move up to ledge, then traverse left and climb through overhanging rock bearing slightly left, to a large ledge below a grey open book recess.
20m (F2) Climb the open book recess to a grass ledge, then traverse right to a tree belay.
40m (E2) Climb up through easy rock bands, bearing slightly left to reach the top. Walk off left along a large grass ledge.
From the start of Naked Orange, walk along the rock face to the right until a ledge is reached. Continue along the ledge (about 150m) to a 4m open book with a beacon at the start. This is about 50m to the left of C cad.
25m (F1) Climb the open book, traverse 2m to the right and continue up a crack and a face to a ledge capped by overhangs.
10m (F2) Climb the recess, traverse delicately 2m to the lef, then climb a smooth bulging face to a stance with a wedge belay.
25m (F2) Move up to just below an overhang, make a tricky move to the left and continue traversing 13m on the same level to a stance in a recess.
45m (E3) Climb out diagonally to the left to a little tree to the left of a steep face, then move to the right and up a recess to a big tree.
30m (F1) Continue up to the left at first, then diagonally to the right onto a smooth ledge. Move to the right into a corner, do a delicate pull-up mantleshelf out to the right and move up to big ledge.
45m (E3) Scramble diagonally to the left at first, to an obvious crack in a little buttress. The route here crosses Cycad. Climb up to a stance 5m below a tree.
45m (E2) Climb past the tree and continue up just to the left of a cycad to a comfortable ledge with two trees. This stance is shared with Cycad.
45m (E1) Continue up the face.
Further scrambling leads to the top.
The route goes up the prominent buttress unofficially called Frugal Kop, about halfway between the campsite and Hanglip. When leaving the campsite, take the road going to the left just before the first gate, walk through a little stream and carry on, passing another gate. The road peters out a the foot of the buttress. The fence bends to the left, heading straight up to a little buttress against the rock face. From this, the route goes straight up the prominent crack with overhangs going out to the right, then up a thinning crack and finally through large blocks at the top of the face.
20m (E2) Climb a recess just to the right of the little buttress, going left at the top.
15m (F3 A1) Climb past a tree into a crack to a handrail going out ot the right. Hand-traverse out to the right around the corner (3m). Use two aid moves (one piton) to get up the vertical crack to reach a large stance.
40m (F3) Climb a chimney up to an overhang. Follow the overhang out to the right by climbing immediately under it. At the end of the overhang, move up an open book to a ledge and continue diagonally to the left to a large ledge with trees.
30m (E3) Move around an awkward bulge by jamming in one knee for balance, to reach a tree on the right. Climb straight up a recess to a large ledge with rees.
30m (F1) Scramble up 5m to a large free-standing block, with a chockstone wedged between the block and the face (belay from here). Climb up between the block and the face, going slightly to the left up to overhangs, then up to the right to a ledge. Climb straight up to a prominent chockstone wedged in a crack. Work up behind the chockstone to a ledge with trees and continue slightly to the left to the top.
Free Variation:Climb up a recess 5m to the left of the fence.
20m (F2) Climb the recess to a ledge above.
15m (G1) Climb past a tree into a crack. Do a delicate move where the crack narrows then do a pull-up onto a ledge.
Continue up main route from this point.
Start in a chimney abut 10m to the right of Vegetarian. This is 15m to the right of a very prominent chimney.
40m (F1) Climb the chimney past a little tree to a little ledge. Continue up just right of the edge of some long slabs to a big block.
20m (F2) Move to the left and climb up just left of the slabs to below a little overhang. Climb awkwardly up right onto a ledge. Step slightly left then with the aid of underhand grips and a layback gain a ledge up to the left. Move onto a big boulder then diagonally right to a tree on the face.
40m (F1) Continue diagonally up right to a slight overhang and traverse right up to atree.
45m (D) Traverse 45m to the right to a slight recess. This is about 5m to the right of a big tree.
38m (F2) Climb the slight recess to a small overhang. Move up to the left then up a few meters until one can step to the right. Make a tricky move left then up 4m to a stance.
45m (F2) Climb up 1m the traverse delicately left into a corner. Move delicately left to reach a thin vertical crack 3m. Ascend the crack (strenuous). Continue to top.
Approximately 200m to the right of the fence is a big brown patch of rock 40m up. The right-hand side of this has a big overhang and the left a recessed crack, with a tree about 8m up.
30m (F1+) Start at lower rockband, below recess line. Climb short open book, moving out left and up to grassy face. scramble to foot of main rockband.
15m (F1) Climb the crack up to a tree, then traverse to the left over a big block to a good tree belay and stance.
40m (F1) Continue up to the left over blocks to a little overhang. Traverse 2m to the left, then climb a grassy face to a good ledge with a tree belay and stance.
40m (F2) Move a bit to the left and climb up to a tree directly above the belay ledge. Traverse to the right, step down and across the main crack. Continue up to the right onto a block, then climb a weathered face above a little overhang. Surmount this and continue for 6m to stance above.
43m (F1) Traverse 8m to the right to a smooth open book. Straddle and pull-up to the right. Continue diagonally up to the right to a good stance.
30m (E2) Move up 3m then diagonally to the left to the top.
Note: This route partly resembles a climb called Spinnekop opneed in April 1950 by D R Bell and B I Harris. The first pitch starts 50m t ot the left of Carnivorous. The second antd third pitches are synonomous. Unfortunately it was not possible to trace the original route rom pitch four onwards.
The climb goes up a recessed crack with a prominent hanging bush halfway up on the first buttress to the right of Hanglip. The climb starts to the left of Born Free and directly beneath the hanging bush. (Beacon).
20m (D) Scramble up a recess to a ledge above.
20m (F2) To the right-hand side of a little white streaked amphitheater are a few boulders with a tree growing out horizontally. From the top of the boulders climb a recess to a small stance below a tree.
15m (F3 A2) Climb up and through the tree then continue up alternatively using aid. Enter a cubby-hole and move past a tree to a stance.
30m (F2) Chimney up to a loose flake then traverse right 3m onto an exposed face. Climb a crack in the face and continue diagonally right to the bottom of the chimney with the hanging bush.
12m (F3 A1) Ascend the chimney then using aid in the final 3m make a hanging belay below a little overhang in the roof.
20m (F3 A3) Semi hand-traverse left 3m then straddle up to a footrail. Move back to below the roof and up to where a good wedge can be placed in a vertical crack. Aid out on the roof and continue with
difficulty up to a stance at the start of a recessed chimney.
40m (F1) Continue up the chimney to a stance on top of a chockstone.
40m (F1) Climb past a chockstone at the back then out of the cave. Ascend a few boulders and climb past or over a bush into the continuation of the chimney. Climb up the left side then traverse out on a ledge beneath a narrow crack. Climb out at the end and continue to the top.
Start 5m to the left of green barked tree at foot of main recess.
20m (F2) Climb recess with awkward pull-up take-off. Climb through exit under
block to tree belay.
25m (F3 A1) Climb short face 4m to right of recess. Traverse into recess and
climb same, using one sling aid at small overhang. Continue to cave and tree
belay.
30m (F2 A1) Mantleshelf to big ledge above cave. Continue to ledge with loose
flakes. Using two aid moves, climb overhanging recess. Continue up recess to chockstones in deep recess.
15m (F3) Climb bottomless recess to ledge and chock belay.
25m (F2) Chimney past overhanging block and continue to cave-like stance.
20m (F2) Chomney recess above. Continue left via tree to stance.
30m (F3 A1) Ascend recess using two étrier moves. Continue via very narrow
and awkward chimney-type recess to tree belay on left of recess, after crawling
under a huge block.
20m (F2) Ascend a few steps and mantleshelf onto a block. Traverse right to
start of exit recess. Climb to top.
The climb goes up a recessed crock and chimney system on a buttress 50m to the right of Born Free. Scramble up to ledge below big overhang (20m above).
15m (F1) Climb a crack past a tree to big detached block and ledge.
15m (F2 A1) Ascend the crack 5m, then aid up to a hanging tree,
continue up left to a stance, long ledge.
20m (F2) Climb the recessed crack on the right, move slightly left
on a ledge then up a chimney to a cubby-hole.
15m (F2 A2) Chimney up at first then traverse right under a roof.
Aid up over difficulties and continue 5m to stance.
23m (F3 A1) Aid up 3m then move strenuously up to a chockstone.
Climb past the chockstone and continue to a tree in the chimney.
18m (F2) Chimney up 3m then traverse right to beneath chockstones.
Climb past the chockstones and continue up to top of another big
chockstone.
25m (F2+) Chimney out to the right then awkwardly to gain a ledge.
Climb up beneath a tree then continue up the chimney to a large
chockstone. Traverse left into darkness, then climb up to upper cave.
25m (F1) Traverse right 3m and do two mantleshelves. Continue to
the right to a recess which is climbed to the top.
The route follows the big open book on the right-hand side of the rock band
leading up to the prominent overhang.
25m (D/E) Scramble to foot of main face.
45m (F2) Climb first crack to right of centre wall to top of loose pillar.
15m (F2 A1) Clim up 2m in corner to small tree. Traverse right, move up one
move (A1) and left again (A1). Continue diagonally for 2 moves (A1). Swing left
into wide jamming crack and ascend same to stance.
15m (F3) Climb open book to ledge in corner.
23m (F2 A2) Continue up open book to overhanging crack. Mixed A2 and free
climbing leads to piton and chock belay below overhangs.
25m (F1+) Climb up to small ledge and traverse about 4m right. Mantleshelf to fairly wide ledge below hanging rock on face. At same level traverse right to
below loose rock pillar on right edge of overhangs above. Climb past rock pillar
to narrow ledge and stance.
30m (F2 A1) Climb up diagonally left to ledge. Use one aid move to ascend
into right recess. Climb recess and use another aid move to gain ledge above.
Traverse left around corner to tree and continue to top.
25m (F2) Start in centre of face. Ascend face to join diagonal recess running from right to left. Follow recess to big ledge.
25m (F1) Climb left hand chimney system to narrow ledge below first bulge.
15m (F2) Follow crack system. Surmount three successive bulges to grass ledge above. Traverse left around pinnacle and scramble up to ledge with blocks.
20m (F1) Ascend left hand side of pinnacle to top.
The climb is situated on the buttress to the right of Black Sunday (3rd rock
band). It starts about 100m to the right of the gully. Take off from a grey
block underneath an overhanging recess (beaconed). The upper line has a big grey
face on its right.
25m (F3) Straddle crack into narrow awkard cubby-hole. Ascend cubby-hole
(crux) to foot of chimney and belay.
30m (E3) Ascend chimney to ledge. Walk diagonally left to foot of pillar.
25m (F1) Ascend right-hand side of pillar to large cubby-hole just 3m below
top of pillar.
20m (E3) Ascend sloping face to tree below crack.
35m (F3) Climb crack to overhang. Chimney up out of roof and climb to stance
4m above.
15m (F2) Climb crack to tree belay.
Traverse 30m left to below series of black rounded ledges.
35m (F1) Ascend ledges (yellowwood tree 5m up) and scramble to top.
R. Druschke, E. Druschke (October 1977)
Variation: Begin about 40m to the left of the original start.
40m (F3 A0) Climb chimney, crux after 10m (sling aid). Continue through hole
at top. Belay next to overhanging rock.
45m (E3) Follow line to top of pillar and continue along ramp to tree belay.
The climb follows a line up the centre of a buttress to the left of a large
grass ramp, which ends at the neck between the main krantz and the free-standing
upper section of the buttress. Scramble up to grass ledge below buttress. Take
the second crack from the right, which has a tree growing out of its lower
section.
40m (F2+) Climb crack for 30m and step left onto ledge below crack in open
book.
28m (F2) Climb crack for 20m to platform. Step down left 3m onto face.
Tension traverse left fro 3m (peg in place) to stane around corner.
15m (F2 A1) Climb bulging crack above (A1 - 2 moves) and tontinue to ledge.
25m (F2+ A1) Climb crack to tree (2m above large ledge). Traverse 10m right
into recess (topped by large overhang).
15m (F2 A1) Climb recess to small stance and chock belay.
20m (F2 A2) Climb via bulging face (A1) to below overhang. Traverse left and
surmount overhang (A2) to ledge. Scramble right and up to top.
The climb is situated on the tower to the left of Tarantula basically following
a prominent crack to the right of Skydiver, which takes the centre line.
12m (F1) Start at beacon. Climb wall of lowest rock band.
15m (F2+) Climb the left edge of the recess with some creepers hanging down
for approximately 4m. Move right into open book and climb up past some hanging
creepers onto ledge, continue up crack to small ledge with tree and natural eye
belay.
15m (F2+) Continue up open book, surmount overhang and up to ledge.
35m (F2) Climb the lay-back type crack to the right of the main crack to tree
and continue up main crack to stance.
25m (F3) Ascend crack to just below main overhang. Move directly out and then
onto left wall. Stance around corner.
20m (E3) Continue up face and cracks to shoulder of pinnacle.
20m (F1) Climb short face next to right corner (pull-up) and up to top.
The climb starts at the large V on the left half of the Buttress and continues
up the center and widest of three cracks running up all the way to the top. These
cracks are located in the corner, left of Tarantula.
80m (C/D) Climb and scramble two short rock pitches and grass slopes to base of
cracks.
20m (E3) Start in recess formed by centre crack. After 8m, move out left and
continue up past tree to stance. (Dassie crawl along ledge and take off from
tree to overcome hanging rock.)
30m (F2) Continue up in left-hand side of crack. Rock in rear of crack very
loose and brittle at this stage. Move out on face to left where necessary.
20m (F3) Move up very strenuously until a narrow footrail can be reached on
left-hand wall of chimney. Move out and back again over block to stance at tree.
30m (F2) After take-off from tree, move left into narrow chimney. A flake on the left wall provides handhold high up. Straddle straight up to large overhang and broad ledge on left.
15m (D) Traverse around left to adjacent narrow crack.
25m (F1) After difficult start in narrow chimney, straddle up to overhang,
move out right and back again to stance on wide ledge with big trees.
20m (F2) Continue up left-hand crack past overhanging corner.
30m (F2) Chimney up and clear crack at top by moving left. Scramble to right and to top of krantz.
Goes up the very prominent chimney/crack right of Disillusion and left of
Tarantula. Scramble 50m up the grassy recess just left of Tarantula and traverse
right to the base of the crack.
25m (F2) Climb up, negotiating an overhang halfway up on the right via a
precarious looking block, to a large stance below a narrow chimney.
25m (F2 A2) Climb the chimney past the overhang above using two large nuts
for aid. Continue more easily to a comfortable stance in the chimney.
30m (F2) Climb up first on the left and then on the right to the large
overhanging slab blocking the recess. Traverse right immediately underneath it
to an exposed stance on the arête.
35m (F3) Climb up steeply just left of the arête, moving precariously into a
vegetated recess above. Continue easily up this to stance.
20m (E1) Starting in crack to the left, climb to the top.
The climb is situated on the left side of Amphibian Tower.
25m (F2) Climb crack system directly to the left of the Tower to large
cubbyhole.
25m (F2) Climb out left of cubbyhole and continue straight up to ledge.
Traverse 2m right to bottom of crack and climb same to ledge and large block.
20m (F1) Walk into corner and straddle up open book to ledge and then
diagonally up left around Tower. Ascend a shallow corner to gain the main
recess.
25m (F2) Move up to neck. Start on the left corner of the final tower,
traverse back right and climb corner and up right to a small awkward ledge from
where it is possible to traverse right to virtually the front of the tower, then
ascend to the top.
The climb is situated on a prominent rock pinnacle in front of the rock-fold where the route Tarantula is found. The route follows a crack in the front of the pinnacle for about two-thirds of the way and then continues up the right side of the pinnacle.
8m (F2) Mae a delicate mantleshelf move up a ledge in the front of the
pinnacle below the prominent steep crack. Move 1.5m to the right and then ascend a small crack to ledge at start of the main crack.
40m (F3) Ascend crack for 4m past first crux, continue past another difficult section until a bulging crack is reached. To avoid a loose block, traverse onto the right wall for 2-3m, then move up and traverse back on a sloping slab into the crack. Climb the crack -through an overhang - past a small tree and make a
stance on a ledge by a deep crack.
25m (F1) Move up the crack to its top, then up wall. Move up an open book
recess and continue up wall to a traverse leading to the right, (approx 5m below an overhang - a piton was left above in the corner to the left.) Traverse right to a large ledge on the right-hand side of the pinnacle. Make a stance.
40m (F2) Move around to the right into the first possible crack line. Follow
this up and then ascend to the top of the pinnacle. Do not follow the crack between the pinnacle and the main wall.
Decent: Abseil down the right side of the pinnacle (facing the pinnacle from below).
Note: The route was called Happy Landing in honor of a frog who managed to descend the pinnacle in very good style, especially in this age where artificial methods are being questioned, by making one big leap. After being slightly stunned on the ledge at the beginning of the second pitch, he made a delicate traverse to the left and then left up to make the final jump. We took the liberty of calling the pinnacle Amphibian Tower.
Start 20m left of an obvious chimney with round overhangs.
35m (F2) Climb the corner of a crack for 15m then move diagonally right to a
recess. Climb straight up the recess to easy ground. Tree belay.
40m (E3) Climb straight up keeping left out of gully in easy rock.
40m (E2) Continue up to a short chimney. Block belay at top.
30m (F1) Traverse right to a small recess (2m high). Climb straight up for 5m
then traverse right into a chimney stradling up into the back of the chimney.
Belay (poor).
20m (F1) Bridge and straddle up and out of the chimney and to a ledge.
35m (F1) Traverse left over a fault to a wall and climb to a ledge. Traverse
right along edge to a wall on the right side of the fault. Climb up to a
platform and tree belay.
20m (F1) Scramble into the back of a chimney and up through a hole to a
ledge. Tree belay.
The line goes up a big open book about 100m to the left of the right-hand gully.
It starts to the left of some impressive overhangs capping a huge sheer face.
The climb commences up the very next open book to the right of a prominent rock
buttress seen on the lower section of the climb.
15m (F2) Climb open book to ledge and tree belay.
20m (F1) Climb fault on the left up into chimney and chock belay.
25m (E2) Climb deep left-hand chimney and traverse out right to ledge.
40m (E1) Ascend recess to ledge and then walk diagonally right to face and
climb same; walk right around corner to below huge open book.
25m (F1) Straddle and surmount chockstone and then walk into back of recess
and chimney up and out of recess via big leaning flake. To avoid overhanging
recess with bush at its top, traverse out right and climb up to next ledge.
Traverse back into crack and chockstone belay.
25m (F2) Follow fault to large ledge below open book.
20m (F2) Climb open book with some strenuous moves and mantleshelf awkwardly to ledge and stance.
20m (F2) Continue up open book. Stance below final roof on ledge.
Walk along ledge to first corner and scramble to top.
23m (F2) From the tree, climb directly up the crack to overhang and then traverse 2m left to tree belay.
20m (E2) Climb up to large cubby-hole, then move to the right from under
overhang onto a shelf below groove.
22m (F3) Climb crack for 20m and then traverse left to stance.
25m (E3) Climb chimney above through tree to smooth face with cubby-hole on its left.
25m (F2+) Climb right-hand crack for 4m and then traverse left from under
overhang. Continue to deep cubby-hole.
20m (E3) Squeeze through narrow wormhole and climb up past large chockstone to stance.
25m (F1) Climb past chockstone and big block to tree.
30m (F1) Straddle up chimney to big block. Dassie-traverse out left.
Mantelshelf 3m from corner to ledge above. Traverse delicately to the right back into gully.
(40m) E3 Walk up gully and ascend left-hand crack. Traverse out right and
climb chimney to top.
The climb is situated on the left corner of the next rock-fold to the right of
Octopus. Start below arch formed by pillar (left).
Climb face on the main wall, traverse left and mantelshelf up ledge. Climb
prominent crack for approximately 20m to overhang, break out right to ledge.
Climb up a few metres then diagonally up left on main face, round corner into
chimney and continue up to to block (F2). (Top of pinnacle was climbed after
Pitch 1.)
Step down and traverse left under overhang into crack (2m). Climb crack to
ledge (F3).
Walk to crack behind stance and climb same, continue up awkward groove and
cracks to a stance (F2). Walk around to the right to a chimney, climb this to
big grass ledges. Zig-zag through upper grass and rock bands (F2).
The climb starts below a tree-covered ledge to the left of two large overhangs.
25m (F2) Climb the groove until there is a definite lay-back crack below the
ledge. Climb this crack 18m and continue a further 7m onto the ledge to a tree
belay.
35m (F2) Climb the obvious crack on the right starting with a rather narrow
chimney. Continue upwards past a white block, then past an overhang. The stance
is made on a very small but comfortable ledge.
25m (F1) Move to under the overhang, then traverse out left and climb up the
edge at the end of the overhang. Move up and then traverse right into a good
crack. Climb this and move onto big grass ledge.
20m (F1) Climb up the bulging block, then continue up the crack.
30m (F3) Continue up the crack until only about 2m of the difficulties
remain. To avoid these traverse 2m right then move up to a ledge. Continue up
past some overhangs to a stance at a tree.
35m (F1) Climb obvious crack route keeping left and make stance at a tree.
20m (F1) Climb the crack directly behind stance, then scramble to the top.
Descend the left-hand gully (Facing the rock), but this is not advisable in the
dark.
The climb starts from the left-hand edge of a ledge a few metres up and 10m left
of the prominent recess (Split).
15m (F3) Climb rotten looking face (surprisingly sound) then move up into
corner. Ascend corner up to overhang, then traverse out left moving onto a
ledge. Make a stance at small cubby-hole at start of crack.
30m (F2) Ascend crack above to small ledge at crack marked by some small
chockstones.
30m (F2) Continue up crack until the crack becomes less defined. Swing right
and move to the top of large flake. Move up a ledge to the left and continue
left to a chimney formed by a large block and the main face. Stance on top of
chimney and first grass band.
Scramble to the base of a large crack around to the left.
90m (F1) Start on right wall, then climb crack, passing a deep hole near the top of the climb.
30m (F1) Ascend grey face 6m to the right of the prominent crack (Split)
moving out slightly left after 7m, then right, to a tree. Move up 10m to the
tree belay at base of crack of rock pyramid.
30m (E3) Continue up crack and chimney to chock belay.
25m (F2) Move out diagonally right onto front face of the pyramid. Climb face
to the top of pyramid belay large overhang above.
35m (F2) Move diagonally right then up to overhang. Traverse left until clear
of overhang and continue diagonally left for 5m, and climb face to first grass
band.
30m (F3) Climb some horizontal rock bands passing a statue-like rock on the
left into a crack. Ascend crack, making a stenuous move through a narrow
bottomless chimney. Stance just above on good ledge.
40m (F2) Move into right-hand crack f recess climbing partly on the
right-hand wall. Climb through overhanging chimney until it culminates near the
top of this second rock band.
40m (E3) Move up to final overhanging band. Traverse right for 12m then
break through to second grass band
Scramble diagonally right and then left through easy rock to the top.
30m (E3) The start is beaconed. Climb the left-hand side of the recss to a
tree about 16m up. Continue up for a further 17m to a small stance with a tree
belay.
35m (F2) Continue up the recess to a large stance with a tree belay. Hand-jam
up the right-hand side of the crack to the level of a projecting slab. Traverse
to the left and then continue up to a large stance with a tree belay. Beware of
loose rock.
20m (F1) Climb the right-hand side of the recess, using a narrow wedge move,
to reach a large stance with a tree belay.
20m (F2) From the beacon on the stance traverse to the right for 10m to a
right-angled crack. Climb straight up the crack for a further 10m, or
alternatively climb straight up for 5m, traverse to the left for about 3m on a
dassie traverse, move over an exposed drop and climb up and back into the crack. From here walk directly across the grass band to the next recess.
27m (E1) Climb straight up to a tree. Move to the left and continue climbing
to a square edged ledge stance.
20m (E3) Climb up the chimney, moving outwards over the overhang. Continue up
to a fairly narrow ledge stance with a boulder belay.
25m (F3) Ascend the left-hand side of the recess, then 3m below the overhang
traverse to the right-hand side of the recess. Now move up and out to the right to get out of the overhang. Continue a further 7m upwards bearing to the right
to a large stance with a tree belay.
10m (F3) Two variations are possible:
(F3) Mount the first 2m in the
corner, then traverse 2m to the right. Using a knee-jam and hugging
pincer-grips, mount a awkward bulge and continue up to a large tree.
(F2) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse to the left along the
ledge to an open book topped by an overhang. Layback up the open book, swing
around to the right and then move up to the tree.
60m (D) Climb to top.
FA:K. Bennetts, T. Kerrich, M. Cramphorn & L. Klingmann, 1962
The climb spirals up and around the buttress and starts 100m up the kloof.
20m (D) Up broken grey face to ledge, slightly right of obvious open-book recess in the face above this ledge.
30m (E2) Traverse right (out of kloof) along ledge.
20m (E2) Continue traverse to bushed section of ledge.
30m (F2) Scramble unroped about 30m along the bushed section of ledge onto the corner. Belay at this point. Climb up 6m immediately above the highest point of the ledge, traverse 18m right, then 6m up open book (using left hand side) to ledge and piton belay.
33m (F2) 5m up open book immediately above belay point. Traverse right 23m. Towards end of traverse two steps each of 3m are made. (First 5m is F2, rest is D-E)
18m (F2) Continue traverse over delicate section and make exposed "swing up" move to piton belay on ledge.
12m (F2) Move down 3m into cubby-hole at foot of vertical crack which is then climbed for 9m to ledge at foot of the second section of the crack.
18m (F2) 6m up crack into chimney of easier standard which is climbed for 12m to ledge.
33m (D) Traverse 15m into corner of relatively large recess, the left hand
side of which is climbed for 18m to belay point on ledge.
30m (E2) Diagonally up out of the main recess onto large platform on left
hand wall of recess.
30m (C) Traverse right 18m, diagonally up to left 12m, 30m scramble then leads to a nek overlooking the kloof and almost immediately above the start of the climb.
15m (E2) After walking 30m along grass ledge from the nex, traverse 3m round corner into grassy open book which is climbed to ledge at foot of vertical
section.
33m (F2) 6m up right-angled corner, traverse right 9m and then up 3m over
grass. Traverse right 9m and up 6m also over grass.
30m (E2) 5m up open book. Easy traverse right 25m to corner and tree belay (first on climb).
30m (E1) Up broken ridge to small beacon. Unroped scrambling along the ridge for about 115m then leads to the summit beacon.
Start at a prominent right-angled corner in the large face to the right of the
Prow.
40m (F1) Climb crack to stance 7m below where crack narrows.
25m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m using a peg hand hold. Climb up to a high hand
rail (2 pegs). A bathook is used to place a good protection peg to the night.
From the bathook hand-traverse and traverse right (10m). Climb (1 peg) to a
stance (5m).
30m (F3 A1) Climb 10m then traverse back to chimney (a high peg was used for tension). Climb crack (23m).
16m (F2) Climb chimney and face (a few metres to right).
50m (E2) Up crack and loose blocks.
23m (F1 A1) Up cracks (use a nut) and left to stance.
20m (E1) Climb round corner to left and scramble to top.
