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The Empress Slabs

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 7

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Description

From afar, The Empress Slabs are easily overlooked due to the impressive buttressing slabs to the side. However, on approach, the quality and character of the limestone becomes clear, as do the beautiful water formed features (or lack of.) In true slab style, the climbing can feel delicate and technical with good footwork being key. Where features do exist, you will find a variety of crimps and underclings, dimples and holes, runnels and ripples to pull on. The slabs do also give away to some cracks, of which a few routes make the most of. The routes were initially developed by Kim and Flo; inspiring a few of the routes names in the area!

If the slabs haven't sold themselves yet, the views over the valley and the beautifully cooling nearby waterfall certainly should (coupled with the 15 min walk form the track.) The crag is south/south west facing and receives sun from mid morning until mid/late afternoon. It is relatively quick drying due to the crag's exposure and breezier climate.

Routes

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Grade Route

Awesome climbing with multiple cruxes and a little bit of everything.

FA: Luca Keushguerian, Aug 2019

Set: Val Ismaili & Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019

Climb past 2 bolts to a beautiful right facing corner. Shares anchors with Lichen My Whistle

FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019

Set: Val Ismaili & Kim McGrener, Aug 2019

Difficult opening moves leads to technical slab followed by a tough boulder problem that gives way to easier terrain. Consider stick clipping the second bolt from the ground. You need a 70m rope to get down.

FA: Kim McGrener, Aug 2019

Set: Kim McGrenere & Florence Wallace, Aug 2019

Consistently tricky moves leads up the steep part of the immaculate slab.

FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019

Set: Florence Wallace & Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019

Tricky face climbing leads right and up the steep slab.

FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019

Set: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019

Start up the right facing corner. Head up the right leaning crack, pull over a bulge to a slab finish.

FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019

Set: Kim McGrener, Aug 2019

Start up Big Red Villis, but head right before the bulge to the anchors of Highway to the Comfort Zone.

FA: Kim McGrener, Aug 2019

Set: Kim McGrenere & Graham McGrenere, Aug 2019

Start up Highway to the Comfort Zone and after the penultimate bolt head left to join the finish of Big Red Villis.

FA: Kim McGrener, Aug 2019

Set: Kim McGrenere & Graham McGrenere, Aug 2019

A delicate start leads to fun laybacking up the obvious slots.

FA: Graham McGrenere, Aug 2019

Set: Graham McGrenere, Aug 2019

This Burly rock climb will get you jacked. Watch out for a hidden pocket halfway up.

FA: Graham McGrener, Aug 2019

Set: Graham MCGrener, Aug 2019

Climb past the corner to a moon shaped crack. A reachy boulder problem takes you to the last three bolts of UWC Rocks.

FA: Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019

Set: Val Ismaili & Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019

Climb a series of low angle slabs and jugs. Easier to clean on toprope.

FA: Kim McGrenere, Aug 2019

Set: Kim McGrenere, Val Ismaili & Florence Wallace, Aug 2019

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Fri 2 Jun
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