Routes in Asia for selected grade

A short beginners route. Climb the slab to the broad ledge. For access to the anchors, follow the suggestions for "Short but Sweet".

Similar start point to April and June, same top anchors as Upgrade. Climb the long spine going straight up to anchors. There is a small perch at the top where you can sit to set acnhors

Large offwidth (a very thin person could fit in at the bottom) in a dihedral position, with a flat slightly overhanging wall on the left. The face to the right is vertical until halfway up the climb where there is a foot sized ledge and the left wall breaks back from overhung to slab and the offwidth widens out to a chimney to a very nice sloped ledge one body height from the top. Its a sort of layback/offwidth body jamming/face crimps/chimney. Lot's of ways to approach this one.

Belay from the little slab at the base of the cliff, climb is characterized by pockets made from the sandstone layers. At the 4th clip there’s a large cave to the left, avoid it as some of the hermits live in there at times. Slightly run out between clips 3-4 because of the layers. Can cheat the crux by following the crack up to the right and traversing back over along the top to the anchors.

Mid size crack above the large cave entrance along the side of the road. Start is about chest height, most difficult part of the climb is getting onto it. Very short route.

(#1 on the topo) Starting from the launch slab (the only sport climb to start here, though all the belaying is from here) follow the obvious line up to the left-most anchors. The climb is significantly harder if you stay to the right of the anchors, there are alot more features off to the left.

(#17) Getting off the ground is the hard part of this climb, the rest is pretty easy. Start at the far left end of the western wall above the archway, the anchors are on the ledge halfway up the wall. Accessable if you walk up the side outside the cave.

Start between Go Ban! and the Bat Hold, use the bolts from the Bat Hold and traverse over to use the anchors from Go Ban!. There are sort of half pipe like features in the rock, this one goes up the second half pipe from the left.

(#8 on the topo) After passing by the cave with the stair case ("Indiana Jones pass" on the map) first of four top-ropes up to the trail on to the wat at the peak. No other known details.

(#10 on the topo) After passing by the cave with the stair case ("Indiana Jones pass" on the map) third of four top-ropes up to the trail on to the wat at the peak. No other known details except the name pronounced "muy bpee bey", 123 in Khmer.

(#11 on the topo) Easy as... Where the trail turns to head down to the caves there is a route with anchors that are accesible by leaving the trail above and crossing the pinnacles.

To the right of 2-1. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-3.

To the right of 2-2. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-2.

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-1, 3-3.

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-1, 3-2.

To the right of Route 6. Shares an anchor with 5-2.

To the right of Route 6. Shares an anchor with 5-1.

Shares anchor with 7-1, 7-3.

传统兼运动的训练线路，可以分段传统攀登1357 2468 跳挂片练习攀登

Anchor = 2bolts + 梅陇锁

五星裂缝，有宽缝有屋檐且保护可靠，宽缝需要C4 5,6，FA已做简单清理，还是有很多浮土略脏

开放FFA

只有顶。

5.8的trad能有这样的体验，本身就很棒。

线路起步是一颗树，中段建议再用右侧的细缝放点保护。

建议从左侧下降，原路下降容易卡绳，因此线路只适合跟攀，没法顶绳。

'路边一线路' 左边传统，自己做顶。

不是FA，没有路线信息，给个5.8的难度吧。

'儿童节快乐 Happy Children's Day' 后方的一块石头

小洞天的第一条线

树做保护站，下面细缝，上面屋檐。至于名字，老父亲的快乐你不懂。

宽缝+天花板细缝

线路名称是建议名，若有正式名称再进行修改。暂无FFA，anchor：无

是否开这几条传统线路思考了很久。最终的考虑是露天剧场已成为新手天堂。最终打顶还是希望新人能更方便的体验传统攀的快乐。

这块石头在“谷子”的上一层。

开放FFA，Free难度预估5.10

完美夹角掌缝

循风(Jason) ：一到岩场就看上了这条线，费劲千辛万苦将下面的缝清理出来，以为是要开成直上的mix，结果老板说直上的顶是给右边的运动用的（后试线发现完全不可爬，老板直接将顶的梅陇锁都取走了。。），正好左边的顶由于处于流水处不打算开线，于是选择顺着缝横移到左边顶，可谓“无心插柳柳成荫”

Anchor=树，开放FFA

前十米石头质量不稳定，虽然初步清理，但攀爬仍需小心。下降可分为两段，最高处用树做保护，在'秦叔宝'线路上方有两个挂片的下降点。

1至7号线都在同一块石头上，这块石头高度在2,3米之间，矗立在河中，在过河道路的左手边，三面有线。

笔直向上的裂缝，很多手点脚点。.3， .75， 1， 2double， 3

周鹏 ：位于林阴长廊北侧，清理了岩壁下面的木丛之后，发现起步的线路都不好搞。要么太细，要么太湿。

最后硬着头皮从湿的地方起步，计划从左侧的线路走。但上面的缝是死的，走不通。只能换中间的线路。

中间的线路上半段极碎，还是个烟囱。缝里像小孩子玩家家搭起来的石头，一碰就掉。而保护员就在落石攻击范围之内！

烟囱两侧是岩脉裂开之后粘在上面的大块石头，手点脚点都很大，难度也就5.7，5.8。但是直觉和经验告诉我，这种诱人的大手点并不可信，可能一发力就掉。所以，不能信任每一个好用的点，做动作的时候保证四肢任何一个意外脱落的时候也要保证身体不脱落。事实上也确实踩掉了几个很大的以为还算结实的点。这种策略完全不是多余。

烟囱里面没细缝，而本身又太宽，保护点很难找，有效保护10-15米一个。

这个难度就算是solo也倒是无所谓，但面对随时可能会掉的手脚点，缝里不能碰的浮石。着实把自己搞得很狼狈。

再加之线路很长，70米到顶。10个延长快挂加三个普通快挂用完，最后无奈把绳梯和抓结都当成了快挂用。如果不延长，绳子在岩石上摩擦，拖不动绳子，再加之绳子贴在碎石上，一定会带下一阵阵石头雨，保护员危险极大。

线路初步清理了一番，但缝里的石头是“无穷无尽”的，落石的风险依然非常大。保护点还是如之前一样，有效保护10米左右一个。后来打顶的位置比用顶上的树矮了10米

就叫它“地狱之路”吧。除了以往高海拔的一些攀登，这么麻烦的还真是有些年不曾经历了！

Gear #.3-#4

一定要尝试onsight的一条好线。

C4 .4～4, 7, double .5

Anchor = 2 bolts + 梅陇锁

机械塞：.3-1

七月白河进入雨季，星越连着干了两个工作日，第一个天和Seven干到天黑，当晚就是暴雨；第二天天气预报显示有雨，大部分climber都选择在家里躺着没人去白河，星越约上正前，在暴雨来临之前完成线路开发和清理，略微有点极限，向开线人致敬。

Gear Advice：C4 #.2~#2, double #1

'Born To Naive' 左侧分支线，后面与其重合，共顶。

掌缝，抽绳一定注意，已发生两起卡绳事件。

Anchor = 2bolts+梅陇锁，Gear: C4:#.5-#4, double #5

抽绳一定注意，已发生两起卡绳事件。

一块完整且巨大的斜面巨石，特别漂亮，各种slab线路都有，特别适合练习脚法。

为小朋友们找到了一块可以随便玩耍又安全的石头，两面都可以爬

一个适合小朋友们的小斜面

简单开心儿童线

Tree Anchor

新顶比原顶高1.5米。第3个挂片已锈。

有顶链

出了隧道口往右，可以借用一棵树和大石头翻下护栏，顺着岩壁往下走20米不到就能看到路线的起点。

多年未曾有人攀登，第一段路线较脏，需要仔细确认线路的起点，树作为保护站。

第二段线路干净漂亮，是一段俯角的缝，较短，还没过瘾就到顶，树做保护站。

机械塞C4: .75~4

The Jonrney Into Fantasy. Freewind FA this route at Aug, 2002. Later, Young Chu added four bolts for 'safety reason'.

挂片较密，初学者先锋友好。

岩场第一条FA/FFA的线