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description

Start down R from Recent Theft.

  1. 30m (13) Short wall to ledge, and step R. The next section, up the peapod corner and then some face moves rightwards, is great. Easy ground leads 15m up and left to a large ledge. This pitch is actually borrowed from Lock-Up; Bulger originally started further up left, 5m R of Unrequited, and traversed in to climb the not-as-good rambly pedestal.

  2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

© (willmonks)

Route history

Mar 1965First ascent: Reg Williams & Chris Baxter

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75723, 141.84460

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

15 Assigned grade
15 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
18 [17 - 19] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 63 from 103 ratings.

Difficulty - 15

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 7 ratings.

Suggested Grade

15
16
18

Based on 7 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 62
Flash 2
Red point 2
Tick 34
Pink point 1
Attempt 8
Target 7

Comment keywords

jamming face crazy shady short slippery easy feet offwidth thrutchy reachy interesting crack awkward chimney enjoyable classy good super beautiful exciting cool fantastic brilliant great fun nice desperate crux sandbag sustained difficult hard struggle committing exposed tricky

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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