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Skydiver Wall

17

Seasonality

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Description

The Face on the R as you enter the gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Steep groove, delicate slab. Start on the L end of Skydiver Wall, just L of a nose. Had a lower-off added around 2003 (which appears to have been removed).

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Climb brittle edges with minimal protection to the horizontal break (optional gear if you choose to head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove). Surmount the flake above the bulge, after which a few more moves will take you to the ledge.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981

A heady lead. From the ground, the upper half of this route may look like a straightforward pleasant crimp ladder, with its rows of appealing parallel horizontal edges; it's best not to expect the route to deliver on that expectation.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Straight up well protected wall. Start 1m R of Even More Moves.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981

After some powerful moves off an undercling, a fixed hanger is soon within reach. Siddle up and rightwards (to another fixed hanger), then finish up the seam.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Joe Lynch, 1981

Face, around L side of block, wall above.

Start: Start 1m L of R.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1982

The crack, moving R at overhang.

Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1978

It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway.

Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6isXNVdguI8

FA: Mark Wood, 2005

Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!

Start: Start 2m R of R.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989

Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack.

Start: Start off the R end of the ledge.

FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.

Start: Start as for TOR.

FA: Mike Law & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's.

Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor.

Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978

Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing.

FA: Unknown

Start: Start 1.5m R of S.

  1. 18m (23) Up the RH corner, then 2 bolts to double bolt belay.

  2. 12m (21) L almost to arete, then up just R of arete.

FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1982

Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 4 Jan 2015

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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