A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Douglas Hockly benwiessner Campbell Gome Gareth Llewellin Ben Hanley Mark Wood Robert Mudie Lucas Marie Dylan Edwards
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Mysteries Wall 31 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mysteries Wall 31 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.750537, 141.834511
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mysteries Gully Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mysteries Wall | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Tigger
Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary! Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 27 | 12m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★ Rosshalde
A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall. The original route followed the line L all the way, but a far better finish is to step airily R off the sloping ledge and up the headwall at a fairly solid 19 (as described). Large cam/s size 4 or 5 could be handy at the bottom and small ones stepping off the ledge. Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall. Traverse right into the left-curving crack and follow it past a bulge. From just past overhang move out right onto face and up. FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham & Geoff Weigand soloed finish Feb 1985, 1979 | 20 R | 35m | |||||
4 |
★★ Free Will
A direct on Rosshalde. Up the slippery seam past 2 bolts, follow Rosshalde to the roof and then R and up past another 2 bolts. Take lots of long slings or double ropes. After the first 2 bolts there are good small wires where Rosshalde traverses in but they are hard to see, and after rain the placement sometimes fills up with sand - a nut key may be handy to clean it out as they are pretty crucial. Might be 23. FA: Douglas Hockly & Geordie Webb, 14 May 2016 | 24 | 20m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Model Phantom
Thin stuff. Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left into the crack of Mysteries. Undercling the crack to gain gravelly crimps past two bolts, then easier ground above. FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985 | 27 | 25m, 2 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Blue-Eyed and Blond
The most attractive climb here. The start requires some small micro cams to protect adequately. If you're not confident at the grade it is recommended to rap in to pre-place or double check the first bits of gear. It is a good idea to anchor your belayer until a few pieces are placed as the consequences of a fall are very serious. Start below vertical seam that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to single bolt, up past desperate crux then easier ground. Lower offs at top. FA: Chris Shepherd., 1984 | 24 | 25m, 1 | |||||
7 |
★ Mysteries
The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.
FA: Lincoln, Chris Shepherd (pitch 1). Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (pitch 2) 1981., 1980 | 23 | 45m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★ Modern History
Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 23 | 35m | |||||
9 |
★★ Historic Events
Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde. Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 26 | 25m, 2 | |||||
10 |
Short 'n' Sharp
Serious unprotected overhung arete right of 'Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below. FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985 | 25 X | 15m | |||||
11 |
★ Spanish Eyes
Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops. Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'. FA: Glenn Tempest & Steve Lassche, 2000 | 20 | 30m | |||||
12 |
Spanish Gardener
Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes. | 17 | 25m | |||||
13 |
Cundall's Arete
Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of 'Spanish Eyes', the start of the second pitch of Gardener's Delight. Pull up onto wall and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1998 | 15 | 15m | |||||
14 |
A Night to Remember
Nice line with fiddly pro. Thin line up face just around right of Cundall's Arete. FA: Glenn Tempest & Steve Lassche, 1980 | 17 | 15m | |||||
Pooh Gully | ||||||||
16 |
Honey Pot
A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful. FA: Nathan Hoette | 29 | 5m | |||||
17 | Project | 32 | 12m | |||||
18 |
Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting
The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section. FA: Tom Greenwood, 1989 | 25 | 15m | |||||
19 |
★★ Bottom Feeder
A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route. FA: Steve Kelly, 2004 | 25 | 15m | |||||
20 |
★★ Anus Horribilus
A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks! FA: Dave Jones, 1998 | 25 | 15m | |||||
21 |
★★ Pooh Connection
Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers. The original start steps off the pillar at the 2nd bolt (left hand in pocket), and is a couple of grades easier. Toby Pola - pulling on above the direct start... but below the original start! FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 29 | 25m | |||||
22 |
★★ Pooh Sticks
Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete. FA: Roland Foster, 1989 | 27 | 22m, 3 | |||||
23 |
Super Pooh
Tweaky Climb the bulging arete to the right of Pooh Sticks - beware the tweak factor! FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008 | 28 | 15m, 5 | |||||
24 |
Eeyore's Thistle's
Good route but runout. Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from Pooh Sticks. A few jugs then run-out to first RB, which is clipped while leaning well L off poor handholds and facing a possible groundfall. There's another RB then DRB lower-off. FA: Andrew Martin, 2004 | 17 R | 20m, 2 | |||||
25 |
★ Gardener's Delight
First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch. Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt), Daryl Carr & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 12 | 60m, 2 | |||||
Lower Mysteries Gully | ||||||||
27 |
Wigwam for a Goose’s Bridle
A fun novelty, involving some airy bridging between two aretes. The arete left of Mohawkman, pulling onto the pinnacle for the final moves. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1 Feb 2019 | 10 | 14m | |||||
28 |
Mohawkman
2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff. Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall just right of Gardener's Delight. FA: Joel wilson | 19 | 12m, 2 | |||||
29 |
★ Mohawk Hanky
The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix. | 15 | 14m | |||||
30 |
★ Mr Hanky
Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff. Righthand slab route with hard start just right of Mohawkman. FA: Joel wilson | 21 | 12m, 1 | |||||
31 |
Beached Wails
Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived and generally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side... Start: Down right of the 'Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack. Climb wall just left of wide crack and go up to ledge on the left. Step up and right into left facing flake-crack and follow it. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss, 1983 | 16 | 40m | |||||
32 |
A Goat's Song
Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam. Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'. Up face past 2 FH then move right and up to ledge. Step back up left onto the face, up and left to middle of face. Up past FH to break, step left and up to anchor. Some people have had trouble pulling the rope so be careful where it runs over the edge. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman., 1998 | 17 | 25m, 3 | |||||
33 |
Things Fall Apart
Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start. Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1998 | 19 | 30m, 2, 1 | |||||
34 |
★★ 100 Acre Wood
Ultra technical face climbing. Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of 'Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song). FA: Steve Kelly, 2004 | 25 | 12m, 3 | |||||
|
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
10 | Wigwam for a Goose’s Bridle | 14m | |||
12 | ★ | Gardener's Delight | 60m, 2 | ||
15 | Cundall's Arete | 15m | |||
★ | Mohawk Hanky | 14m | |||
16 | Beached Wails | 40m | |||
17 | A Goat's Song | 25m, 3 | |||
A Night to Remember | 15m | ||||
Spanish Gardener | 25m | ||||
17 R | Eeyore's Thistle's | 20m, 2 | |||
19 | Mohawkman | 12m, 2 | |||
Things Fall Apart | 30m, 2, 1 | ||||
20 | ★ | Spanish Eyes | 30m | ||
20 R | ★ | Rosshalde | 35m | ||
21 | ★ | Mr Hanky | 12m, 1 | ||
23 | ★ | Modern History | 35m | ||
★ | Mysteries | 45m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★★ | Blue-Eyed and Blond | 25m, 1 | ||
★★ | Free Will | 20m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ | 100 Acre Wood | 12m, 3 | ||
★★ | Anus Horribilus | 15m | |||
★★ | Bottom Feeder | 15m | |||
Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting | 15m | ||||
25 X | Short 'n' Sharp | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ | Historic Events | 25m, 2 | ||
27 | ★★ | Model Phantom | 25m, 2 | ||
★★ | Pooh Sticks | 22m, 3 | |||
★★ | Tigger | 12m, 2 | |||
28 | Super Pooh | 15m, 5 | |||
29 | Honey Pot | 5m | |||
★★ | Pooh Connection | 25m | |||
32 | Project | 12m |