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Routes in Arapiles for selected grade

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder
V10 Between Fear and Desire
Boulder
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
32 Pretty In Punk

An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local.

This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete.

Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Mixed trad 20m, 4
32 Punks in the Gym

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it!

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top.

Mayan

Mixed trad 30m, 7
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Boulders Around the World Boulder Road Face
V10 Millers Tale

Sit start at the back of the roof. Straight out to jug on lip and up.

Boulder 3m
V10 Andy's Problem
Boulder 4m
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
32 Gridlack
Sport 15m, 4
32 Destroyer of the Rings

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer

FA: Lee Cossey, 2015

Sport 15m
Northern Group Mysteries Wall
32 Project
Trad 12m

Showing all 8 routes.

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