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Routes in Arapiles for selected grade

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
5 The Pleb

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 27m
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
5 Spasticus

The scrubby corner.

Trad 10m
King Rat Area The Shark fin
5 milking the dorsal fin
Trad 7m
Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump
5 Sage Not

This was originally called Sage but as there is already a real climb of that name at Arapiles it has been altered.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. 4 metres right of the overhang, follow crack to the right of hanging boulder, finish up to gap in blocks. Scramble off to right.

FA: Tim Harris & Dave Millard, 2004

Trad 20m
Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
5 Sincerity

The line starting just left of Charity

FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1975

Trad 14m
5 Purity

Ramble up the low angled buttress.

Start: Start at the next buttress R from T.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Trad 18m
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
5 The Wobble

The challenge of this old route, should you choose to accept it, is working out where it goes.

Start as for 'Radish'.

  1. 36m (5) Up the easy corner and then traverse right around the buttress to the next line. Up this, or face on left to next ledge.

  2. 24m (5) Climb short corner then step left and traverse left below overhangs to belay.

  3. 15m (5) Traverse left again under bulge and up through weakness(this is probably a few metres left of the second pitch of Shaggy's Route) to a ledge level with the Eagle's Nest, a prominent nose of rock to the right. Now left and up again to the next ledge.

  4. 15m (5) Up wall to a huge ledge with buttresses rising on both sides.

  5. 30m (5) Up by the lefthand buttress, The Belvedere, and up to join 'Syrinx'. Scramble off right.

FA: Steve Craddock & Bob Craddock, 1963

Trad 130m, 5
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
5 Romper Room

Easy chimney immediately right of "Cranky Babies", finishing up right wall.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

Trad 15m
5 Davy Jones Locker

Start up the South Pacific corner, then take the right-hand line past an unusual rock crypt.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kurt Pitts & Hamish Pitts, 5 Apr 2015

Trad 35m
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
5 Hunting For Swedish Fish

Walk through to the back of the gully where the floor ends at an edge. Up into a scoop in the right wall, then rightwards up ramp and corner. Exit left to belay on boulder ledge. Be wary of the rock. Descent: scramble through (suggest staying roped up) to the rap chains above Fly By Night.

FA: Ben Wright & Amber Blodgett., 26 Nov 2017

Trad 18m
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area
5 Tiptoe Ridge
1 3 43m
2 5 27m
3 4 20m
4 5 30m

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

  1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

  2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

  3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

  4. 30m 5 head on up

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963

Trad 120m, 4
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
5 Introductory Route
1 4 25m
2 2 40m
3 5 35m
4 4 35m

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.

The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed.

Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

  1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.

  2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.

  3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10

  4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

FA: Doug Angus, Bob Craddock & Peter Jackson, 1963

Trad 140m, 4
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
5 Rotten Row

Not really a climb, just an escape route. The diagonal ramp leading right from the base of the 'Siren' corner.

FA: Steve Craddock & Bob Craddock, 1963

Trad 60m
5 Tschumpel

Botanical line behind large dead tree at right end of 'Rotten Row'.

FA: Bruno Zeller & Anne McKenzie, 1969

Trad 42m
5 Bindi

Chimney line 6 metres right of 'Tschumpel'

FA: Chris Baxter & Derek Lord, 1967

Trad 25m
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
5 Noodles Romanoff

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Trad 45m
5 Generation Gap

Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Michael Stone, 1979

Trad 42m
Far North Werewolf Area
5 Silver Lining

Pad up the centre of the lovely clean slab left of Silver Bullet.

FA: Noah, Mayank from Balwyn High School, Keith Lockwood & Paul Noah Mayank from Balwyn HS, 17 Sep 2015

Trad 35m
Western Side Christmas Walls
5 Three Wise Men

Start 3m left of the right-side of the slab, 4 metres right of 'First Noel' at a broken crack in a very small left facing corner.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Ron Spence, 2003

Trad 22m

Showing all 19 routes.

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