★★ The Second Coming 22

One of the best 22s at Araps. Start immediately L of Kingdom Come.

1. 27m (22) Make sure of your gear in the very polished first 8m. From Kingdom Come take the rising line (awkward, polished, slightly tricky to protect) up L to a shallow corner. Up this to a mantle on Judgement Day traverse. From the top of the pedestal, up wall tending right to rejoin Kingdom Come at DRB anchor.

2. 30m (21) Fantastic, airy and continuous. Step R into hanging crack and up to ledge. Move back L and up, keeping just L of the arête. Trad anchor, or go 8m L to DRB rap anchor above Lamplighter. A 70m rope reaches from the ground to this top anchor and back down to the 1st belay (just), allowing leaders to clean their own gear with belayer on the ground (with some sizeable sideways swings).

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).