Topical discussion or spiritual epiphany? You be the judge.
A sustained new multipitch on a new section of wall at Pierces Pass, covering some nutty terrain, and with very unique climbing for the Blueys,
ACCESS: Walk down to start of Lunch Ledge, instead of going left towards Mirrorball, go right and cross the creek to cliffline with prominent arete (Pitch 5 of this route!). Scramble along narrow vegetated ledge left of the arete. The first set of rings is the topout of Pitch 4. Can rap the route from here (70m) but it is challenging due to the steepness, recommended to continue left to a small cave (above huge drop-off - take care). Crawl through cave and rack up at double rap rings with a smattering of old carrots near them. Fix 70m rope to bolts and rap off into the void (down the Abandoned Giles Project) - kick on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. About 30m down is an old set of FHs - best to clip one of them to stay connected to the rock. Eventually touch down on large ledge with a couple of small banksia trees. This ledge is big enough to walk around on without roping up.
Walk right along the ledge to a single ring belay, with rap anchors a few metres further right (over the void). A 35m rap from here (bounce in and out past the overhangs) will get you to the belay below P1.
35m (25/26) 18 bolts - Easy climbing to first bulge. Slightly left through this to next bulge, and up and over via hard moves, staying on the LEFT-side of the arête. Trend left, then finish via some funky stemming. Consider a few long runners for drag. This pitch has a few bolts mostly for aiding past hard moves, which are not ideal for drag if clipped on link. Move belay 10m left to next set of ringbolts below left-facing corner.
15m (23) 6 bolts - Extremely bouldery start (very hard if short) to the 2nd bolt above the belay, then pleasant gr21 to the anchor.
45m (26) 18 bolts - The money pitch! A Spanish-style resistance excursion. Weird climbing for the Blueys. Up via tricky moves, then long rising traverse right with all the hard stuff near the end. Up small corner, then rising traverse back left on techy small-things (and weirdly mega rock) to belay. With 4 strategically placed long-runners rope drag is negligible.
15m (16) 3 bolts - 6m of tolerable climbing past 3 bolts, then vegetated scramble to belay on ledge (make use of the fixed rope!). Move belay 10m right to single belay bolt on small stance below arete.
15m (23) 8 bolts - Up left side of arete. Turn the arete, and up steep jugs to loweroff anchors.
