A gem of a climb in a magnificent setting and historically one of the first multi-pitch sport routes in the Bluies. A rare big wall that suits lazy starters - it dips into shade after 10am in summer. Many non-lazy climbers combine it with with Smegadeath for a full day out. The route is mostly juggy with a few smaller holds and not too hard for the grade. Although it was rebolted in 2021 the original older vibe still remains - it is more runout than many of the newer sport multis - a few cams can help if this is at your limit. Take about 12 quickdraws, 2x60m+ ropes, and above all, prusiks! No bolt-plates required.
40m (21) Trend left up face onto overhung juggy arete and finish up grey wall to tiny ledge and anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt is highly recommended. Approx 10 bolts.
20m (21) Right trending wall on extraordinary featured rock. The orange slopes are delicious. Belay on tiny ledge under the daunting steepness.
33m (23) A remarkable pitch. Left through steepness onto subtle arete. Step right onto unique and unnerving thin flake (treat this with extreme caution) and up pumpy steep wall until the angle changes to less army and more footy. Belay is right at the top of the cliff at awkward small stance (semi-hanging belay).
Descend by rapping down pitch 3 using double ropes (clipping into a few bolts to stay connected to the steep wall). [Alternatively, you can lower off pitch 3 with a single 70m rope, with a few metres to spare (knot in end!), so everyone can lead it. The oddly positioned rap rings will massively twist your rope, so its best if the first leader lowers off draws, and the second leader abseils. This also means your 2nd rope only needs to be towed to the 2nd anchor, and its bottom end can stay on the ground]. Then one long 60m rap down pitches 2&1 to the ground. 50m ropes will not make it down in one go. It's possible to do it in three raps with a bit of a swing on pitch 2. Walking off is not recommended as it puts you all the way back on the highway at least two kilometres away from the carpark.
