Routes in Blue Mountains for selected grade

Sit Start matched on the undercling. Go straight up and mantle.

Same start as “Catholics Against Galileo”. Slightly harder too, but doesn’t warrant an extra grade. Head out right and mantle out. Avoid the arete.

Start matched on lower ledge, hop up to the top and compose yourself for a daunting mantle/whale out. Access to boulder requires some hopscotching across the river on boulders then head up stream for 150m to find this epic boulder directly opposite the jump rock.

Jaime Williams (FA)

As for hopscotch, right hand exit variant Jaime Williams (FA)

As for “wing out” to first big move then staying low on the lip to top out as for “wing pop”

Sit start with double updercling one move wonder to lip

Up the finger crack only using the crack for hand holds, one for the thin fingers. Shame it is contrived. It's an awesome crack

Alec Landstra

A nearly sit start on hidden sidepull crimp. Stick to that arete going up with big move after big move until a tricky mantle top out

Start as for Photocoagulator before finishing up Gingivectomy via crimps and slopers

Emmanuel Madayag

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

Phillip Booth

Direct movement. Sit start as for Doctor. Gain ledge, then crimp, 2 finger pocket, move to slopey rail directly above, then up left to diagonal positive rail. Match high big hole for top.

Sweet high sloper traverse, good but spaced holds the whole way. Start on a L finger jug and right crimp, up and work your way out left along the roof rib. Can you campus is off for your feet. Finish matched on the high pocket. Easier to campus most of the moves.

Start at scoop and traverse right to big jug.

Start on big jug and traverse left to scoop.

Start on the left side of the crack and traverse until the crack opens out. Very tricky mantle

Start on the rail and dyno your way to the jug. Lack of feet makes it challenging

Sit start at left of cave, move along the low line to the far right, finishes out of the mini cave. Many varients open for other 'scends. The first line sent in Saturns Forge, 22 May 2010, zjparer.

Starts as for Liken Lichen, traverses through low roof, mantles onto shelf and up onto the hollow roof. Perfect pockets litter this awesome roof, with an excellent top out! No feet on the lower rail stick to the roof until after the batman boot; then the two high feet on the wall at the end are legit. Many alternate endings to this roof!

Obvious line of weakness. Pop up to crimpy rail then pull on to slab using slopers. Open project since hold breakage.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.2, #0.3, #3, #4, and Doubles of #0.4 to #2.

1. 40m (25) - Bolt, #2, #2, #0.5, #0.3, Bolt, #1, #0.75 + #0.2, #1 + #0.75, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.4, #0.5 to 2 Bolt anchor.

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #1, #0.4, and 4 Bolts to 2 Bolt anchor.

3. 15m (18)

A great thin, mostly slabby pitch in its own right, which would probably be popular at any other crag... But surrounded by the elite climbs of the Sublime Point East face, this is merely a 2 star route.

Start from the Castaway belay. Head slightly right and up (crossing Subliminal P1). Continue up via very thin technical moves which get progressively harder all the way to the belay.

If climbing out via Castaway, its possible to head directly right from the belay for 7m (with exhilarating climbing) past 2 additional bolts to join the belay at the top of Castaway P1.

Trust nothing but your feet. First three bolts of Wrath of Froth, then swing onto the left side of the arete and climb the super sweet orange face. It weaves around a bit - a few long draws will help with rope drag, especially on bolt 3 (or alternatively it is easy to unclip once you have clipped bolt 4). Either lower-off and clean from high anchor and climb one of the other routes to exit, or do an annoying hanging belay and traverse right onto Wrath of Froth pitch 2 about halfway up. 15ish quickdraws.

Furthest right of the bolted routes. Josh Dobson never freed this route and it has had a faded tag hanging off it for years. Nice easy climbing up to rooflet, hard crimps over this (appears to be chipped?) then dirty mossy slab to finish. Currently its so mossy you can't make the anchor so lower off the last ring. Grade of 25 is given up to this no moss high point!

Upgraded in the 2019 guidebook. 5m left of MF, just left of small tree leaning against cliff. Steep juggy start up to big roof. Monkey across imposing roof flake then up super headwall.

Popular steep climbing. Climb up juggy cracks and flakes to the biggest roof at Binary Cave. Crank over this with a bouldery lip move then up great orange headwall. Two long draws in the roof help reduce rope drag.

As good as the other routes here. Up the juggy wall right of Thumbs Up crack to large shale ledge under roof. Clip roof bolt then hand traverse shale ledge left to join into Thumbs Up's roof crack section. Up crack for a move then hand traverse back right above dramatic roof then up great sustained orange wall.

Has a reputation for being tough for the grade and having a tricky pocket sequence. Starts just left of Thumbs Up. Boulder though a couple of roofs to an easy head wall.

Go go stop. The best of the harder routes at the Binary Cave Steep bouldery start trending right to rooflet then straight up the gorgeous orange wall on small sloping holds to an easier finish.

2 pitches. An easy first pitch, and a lovely hard pitch hidden up on the orange wall hanging above. Start 5 metres left of the mini-totem pole pillar.

1. 20m (17) Easy, peasy. A mix of FHs and ringbolts. You can lower off the big staple at the top of the wall, or much better, climb up to the ledge and do the second pitch. A rap anchor is 5m to the L, looking in, at the top of P2 of Hells Bells.

2. 22m (25) Steep with a low crux, then nice moves to the top.

A surprisingly mellow undertaking despite the roofiness, with a funky gnarly move to gain the lip. Probably sub-24 but for the last move.

The secondmost route from the right, starting at a single bolt anchor, 5m left of the anchor for Constipation Chimney Variant Start. Mantle to ledge, then punch right to flake and up to rest. Then, truck right through roofiness, up to mushroom-jug, and onwards to ultimate finale.

Ideally, clip the anchor from the sloper jugs on the lip, but if they're wet, just do whatever works for you. Single bolt anchor. Backjump to clean.

The left hand finish to Armistice Direct via an outrageous foot free hand-traverse along a series of incut holds across a blank orange shield. Finish with hands over the lip. Lower off large single U-bolt or backjump.

Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 8m left of Guillotine.

1. 25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Ben Trovato wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Ignore the manky chain at 20m and continue another 5m to a new anchor.

2. 8m (14) Continue up and left on easy grey ground past another bolt to cosy foot ledge and DRB. (35m to ground). You can get here more easily via Guillotine p1 if you prefer.

3. 20m (24) Step right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then take the orange streak above the guano. Currently finishes after about 20m, just below an overlap, 3m above a jug rail. This pitch is really good, on fantastic orange rock, tho you need to lower off a single ring. A proper anchor will hopefully appear some day.

The bolted continuation for another 15-20m to DRB near the top is open, help yourself. Will be 27+, and is increasingly let down by the usual deteriorating rock quality up there.

Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastons. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of Ben Trovato Wall. Finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29).

The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26.

One of the most obvious 'lines' on this wall and the first route bolted by Monty in the Ben Trovato Renaissance period. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.

1. 30m (23) Straight up to the base of the right facing and left leading big flake. Follow this to final tricky layback finish (this final flake is sounding very hollow, take care (or fix it)). Best to extend bolts on the right of the flake (60cm+ draws), so that your rope isn't pulled in over the sharp-ish edge of the flake. If you are only doing the first pitch use the lower offs before the ledge. Otherwise, continue up to the giant staple.

2. 25m (25) Balancy start then blast straight up the gorgeous orange wall above with final death by crimp section. Belay on ledge at double rings.

3. 30m (24) Pumpy conclusion up the steep wall and corner above with a baffling reachy thin section down low. Either lower off the double rings just below the top or dirty mantle out to belay from a tree.

Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile.

Steep exposed climbing. Starts off far left end of ledge - about 5m left of Cloudstreet. Across jugs to reach corner, up this for a few moves then over bulge and face left of arete. Finish up exposed orange face above with lots of reachy horizontal pulls

An old-school, bowel-loosening journey across one of the most exposed bits of rock in the Blueys. Mostly trad, but with just enough bolts to keep it ever-so-slightly on the right side of insanity. Mostly great rock, and wild moves (pitches 2 and 3 will blow your mind!).

Bring double cams #0.5 to #3, with singles of #0.3, #0.4, #4 and #5, and all the usual paraphernalia necessary for a RADventure.

Ascensionists must be comfortable climbing well above gear on easier terrain. The cruxes can be aided past -with some craftiness- but the traversing (and very steep) nature of the route means both leader and second must be capable of ascending the rope in the event of a fall.

The route starts from the ledge belay below Echo Crack P3 (the crux pitch). Access by either climbing P1 and P2 of Echo Crack. Or, better yet, walk to the top of Echo Crack from Echo Point, and abseil 80m down the top 2 pitches of that route (some trickery needed to avoid getting stuck in space).

If you need to bail, you can either rap right down Echo Crack to the ground with 2 x 60m ropes and walk back up the giant staircase. Or, if you've accessed this route from above, and managed to keep the tail of the rap line in place (eg. threading it through the belay bolts below echo crack) you can reverse the climb and jumaar back up it.

1. 10m (21) From the belay right of echo crack, traverse left (#1 cam in start of echo crack) past bolt, then up overhanging prow with #0.75, #3, and #4 to Bolt and #0.75 Belay.

2. 20m (24) Traverse left and up to gain main traverse line (#2). Traverse straight left past #3, and on to bolt. Crux follows, then crucial #2 (to protect second), and onwards past #4 and #3. A short runout section of traversing takes you to just below the anchors (#5 recommended), then final thin moves to 2 bolt belay.

3. 35m (25 to 26) Up and left to bolt, then straight traverse left past #3 and #1. Ignore bolt further left (it's for the neighbouring route), and instead make your way upwards with tricky face moves on much steepness past 3 bolts. At the 3rd bolt, traverse left to difficult moves (crux) to gain arete and move upwards to jug-hole on left side of arete. Chill in the big cave, then truck right and up bouldery steepness past 2 bolts. After 2nd bolt, traverse left to gain hanging grey arete, with sustained, technical moves past #0.75, #1, #3, and #0.5 to gain 2 bolt belay. Breathe an epic sigh of relief.

4. 35m (21) Crux off belay past 3 bolts, then quest upwards, trending right to arete where rock and gear are better. Eventually meander back to left-facing flake (crucial #3 !!), and up to bolt. Thin moves out left, then up past crucial #0.75 to belay in cave. For this pitch, bring a single rack #0.3 to #4, with doubles of #0.5, #0.75 and #3.

From here, bush-bash left up gully to regain the Echo Crack exit track.

Huge crack underneath main lookout, requires standard rack with the addition of up to ten #3 camalots.

1. (13) Chossy corner and crack leading left to well signposted belay ledge. \

2. (18) Small corner to crack then veering left to mantle loose shale ledge. Ring bolt belay.

3. (25) Left over the void and up to get established in crack (crux) then up. Never quite gets dry. Bring lots (9) of number 3 cams. Up to belay with two carrots though horizontal above ideal.

4. (22) Up then leave crack to bridge left past 3 good carrot bolts (2014) and original rotten aid bashies beside them to top. If you've freed pitch 3, pitch 4 feels just as hard!

Walk off 15mtrs then scramble up 1 meter ledge and follow trail meandering up then right a little under last cliff to lookout. Well done

Classic Blueys steep face climbing in an inspiring location, but with the old-school epic of extremely bold climbing above gear.

Original bolts replaced (like for like) with Glue-in Stainless Carrots in 2016!

Access either by walking to the top of the route from Echo Point and rapping the route (recommended), or by climbing the lower pitches of Echo Crack or Silent Echo to the huge shale-band ledge at half height.

To access from the top, make your way from Echo Point Upper Viewing Platform, down the ramp and head towards the Lower Viewing Platform. 30m after you turn left from the bottom of the ramp (heading towards the lower platform), there is a yellow mark on the fence on your right. Step over this, then down scrub heading vaguely right through bush to rock pagoda. Keep the rock on your right initially as you head down the hill, following a vague weakness and a number of yellow arrows. When the next cliffline appears on your left, hug that and down a number of small shelves to arrive at 2 x carrot + 1 fixed hanger belay directly above Echo Crack.

The top of Alive in a Bitter Sea is at 2 Stainless carrots (and one original Bash-in) atop a series of big teetering blocks, approximately 10m across the wall directly in front of you, at the same height as the Echo Crack top-out.

1. 25m (24 R/X) - Hard moves directly up past 2 carrots (caution getting to 2nd Carrot). Traverse straight right via balancy moves for several metres to flake. Up this with gear, then hard moves up vague corner to placement, and directly right to detached flake, up this to gain "hanging blunt arete". More hard moves up arete past one last carrot bolt to belay on small flake stance (Piton + Bolt + #4/#3.

2. 40m (25 R) - Stupidly hard at the grade. Traverse directly right from the belay for several metres, then diagonally up and right to shale break , then up via 2 carrots of sustained hard climbing up blunt arete to infamous dyno, and more hard arete climbing to belay on small ledge (3 carrots) - Consider shifting the belay further right to be out of the way for the nails at the start of the next pitch).

3. 15m (23 R) - Straight up via utterly desperate thin moves off the belay to a very high carrot (caution getting to this bolt!), more hard moves past gear to another carrot, then easier climbing up (trending vaguely left) past several placements to belay on top of big flake (3 Carrots).

4. 10m (14) - Traverse left along face, then across Echo Crack past 3 carrots and several possible gear placements, up onto belay ledge (2 Carrots, 1 FH).

Walk back up to Echo Point.

A spectacularly positioned climb up the wall just left of an undercut arete. Has not had a lot of repeats so expect a few spider webs and lichen spots. The 2nd pitch in particular is very sustained and cryptic. Crux on pitch1 can be done direct at 25+ or with a minor variation at 23/24. All bolts on this route are rusted bash-in carrots and should be treated with caution. Most do not have fixed bolt plates - bring at least 10 of your own. Don't forget to wave the tourists below! This is not quite a sport route - bring a single set of cams from 0.25 to #2 to supplement the aging bolts on P2 - and one vital #1 camalot for pitch 1 traverse section.

1. 25m (25) First 3 ringbolts of Hurl then exposed traverse right and up steep juggy wall onto thinner grey rock. Go direct at the hard section with two closely spaced bolts for the (25) version - or traverse right 2m, up, and then back left for the grade 23/24 version. Belay on small ledge at two rusty carrots.

2. 30m (23) Sustained grey wall above with lots of cryptic moves on hard to read rock. Placing the bolt plates is at least half the battle and makes this feel solid 24! Cams certainly help alleviate the stress. Belay on ledge on right side of huge roof at top of arete.

3. 15m (18) Up the dirty ironstone crusted face past 3 hard to see carrot bolts to double ring anchor on ledge (shared with Hurl).

Fantastic steep wall of waterwashed rock on ringbolts. Some of the best rock in Toon Town. This was an old Steve "Moss" Moon project from 1993 that was rebolted and tried, and then finally freed in 2023 accidentally by climbers believing they were on a rebolted Merl! It's easy to combine the first two pitches into one mega pitch which is the recommend way of doing the route.

1. 25m (25) Straight up middle of steep orange wall (shared first 3 bolts with Merl). Pump builds until final battle with a balancy crux flake near the end. Belay on tiny ledge at double ringbolts. 13 bolts.

2. 20m (21) Continue up grey wall above on excellent featured rock. Semi-hanging belay on double rings about 6m below the huge roof.

3. 17m (20) Hard move straight above belay to jugs below massive roof, ignore bolts going up and through the roof (an incomplete project - there are no bolts above the roof!), instead traverse right along jug rail and mantle onto small ledge. Finish up black mossy wall above past 3 ringbolts to ledge and double ringbolts & walk off.

Rap in and climb out on worrisome metal in worrisome rock with worrisome air. Absolutely awesome - come on, step up . .

'Excellent' engaging rope solo . .

Start: Head south fro, lookout down track in gully to chain on block several metres from cliff edge. Rap in past lots of fixed stuff to belay in middle of wall.

Frothy Thomson attempting to Onsight Change Planets

Diagonally left to bolt. Corner to 100' Slab halfway ledge.

Start: 3m right of LL.

Start: As for W&R to first bolt, then right, arete to roof and belay.

Start: 3m right of Tal.

Wall to arete and up.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 008.

Rings 3m right of Family Jewels. Shares a few holds on Crystalis then heads diagonally left to from last bolt to shared anchor with The Family Jewels.

Start up You Crazy Diamond for 3 bolts,1 bolt on Crystalis then thinly up new line. One for the old school technical face lovers. Great high stepping pocket crux with many other tricky spots to a high finish up the orange streak.

The line of ringbolts up the blunt arête 3m right of You Crazy Diamond. Hard moves getting up to and over the nose and established onto the arête followed by surprisingly pumpy face climbing between well spaced bolts. Finish at the anchors of You Crazy Diamond.

Start up IF for the first 3 bolts then breaks left and a long way up with just the right mix of jugs and techie sequences.

Start as for Diamond Jack clip the first bolt then break left across the face on a series of crimps to a big flake undercling, dynamically up up and away. Finishes at the Diamond Jack anchors.

Start 25m right of In Harm's Way at the boulders just before the access ledge becomes alarmingly narrow, slopey and exposed.

1. 30m (25) Rebolted (2006). All U bolts. Wonderful climbing up the orange face to a small belay ledge with a 3 ringbolt belay. The top is a little runout, most people just clip the bolts but you can also place med cams if you wish.

2. 30m (19) This pitch drifts right up the good looking wall on very old carrots, and requires 10+ bolt plates and a rebolt. The ringbolts above and slightly left of the first belay are not it - that's Gem Stone. A 2 ringbolt anchor is on the ledge 10m below the top, but is poorly positioned for lowering off because the rope grinds on sharp ironstone.

Diamond Jack for 20m then, instead of stepping L to the easy 10m flake, step R for the top 15m of Girls Best Friend. Adds a bunch more face climbing to DJ including another excellent crux.

One of the best warmups here. Also good for end of day mileage, being in shade later than all other routes. Climb Slinky Dog for 4 bolts then move left into You Did it Again just above it’s crux (clip YDiA’s 4th bolt from above, then backclean SD's 4th bolt) and follow YDiA to the top. Maybe 24 if you’ve got the Bliss start wired.

Middle route on the high ledge.

Starts with some hard bouldery moves up the left side of the arete, then an easier, but long wall.

Tricky off the deck to a good rest then interesting and sustained upper wall. Quite a unique route for this area.

The obvious corner in the middle of the main wall.

Hard thin moves from the ground to a hard move to gain the pocket before joining the original route. A better way to start Chocolate Trouble Cake.

Through the bouldery start of Captain Kurko to the 5th bolt, then head Up and slightly left to join the upper half of Chocolate Trouble Cake.

Classic 25 pumper, crank the steep start then keep pumping up the wall of jugs.

Another of the classic steep 25's at farside.

Just to the left of the rope end at hanging flake. Up and trend left on the bolts with red glue

Classic of the crag. Starts just left of small hanging corner at right end of fixed ropes. Sustained bouldery climbing over bulges in the first half - then pumpy reachy climbing to finish.

Runout - has about half the bolts of nearby routes! Lucky the bolts protect the hard stuff. Top half is a bit loose and scary.

Another good steep orange line. A one move wonder on thin holds, the rest is juggy steep fun. Might be grade 24 if you can crimp?

steep funky climbing with a couple of moves

From the base of the via ferrata abseil another 15m through the trees to the valley floor. Or, scramble down the rungs L of Pit Stop and walk 80m (climbers right) to the same spot. From here, contour around (climbers right) to the edge of the amphitheatre. Steep start that requires some long slings to reduce drag. Impressive setting, perched above the valley.

The namesake powerful start then leading left after fourth bolt easily enough to top. Stickclip first bolt , not permadraw. Hard for 25.

Classic Mountains 25. One of the bestest at the grade. Tricky flake to steep thuggy roof to pumpy headwall - awesome. Start approx 20m left of approach hand-over rope below right trending flake feature.

Steep, burly and traddy. Bolted roof and trad protected steep flake crack just above the start of the fixed rope traverse across to Highlander. #0.75 Camalot protects crux on lip of roof - and the rest of the flake is protected by a single rack of finger/fist sized cams and medium/large wires. Save a #0.3 Camalot for vital shallow placement just below the top bolt. Rap anchor at top.

Undercut corner halfway along the sketchy rope traverse to Waylander rap point. Use the rung to belay from (don't rust the old fixed rope). If the bottom of the route is running with water use the rung to get onto wall.

Start as for The Darkest Hour corner but stay on the left face, dabbling onto the arete at a few points, then left and up wall, through bulge and finish with hyper technical face.

Start in the middle of the wall below pockets. Unlikely climbing through pockets up to crimpy crux.

The scene of yet another ethics debacle, where visions collide, egos are bruised and Negotiation is a primitive wallflower. Fact 1. Emil, after considering the amount of available gear placements across the whole route, and much discussion with other developers at Elphinstone, opted to bolt the line and subsequently did the first ascent. Fact 2. Rowan returned from overseas and took umbrage with Emil since he wanted to attempt it on gear. After having had numerous ascents Rowan chopped the routes bolts. One bolt was left in the route toward the top, presumedly due to lack of gear.

A giant mutated bird. Pronounce the name with a Japanese accent whilst doing the crux moves for full value.

Long draws good + at least two single length sling runners. Starts off the middle of the middle ledge. Short powdered wall start to small dirty ledge - then swing out roof leftwards (chain permadraw) then up long sustained face. The hardest stuff is in the first 20m but there are still some things to think about up there somewhere. Belay on small ledge about 20m below the top of the cliff - scramble off to the left as per standard exit (ropes/rungs/radness etc).

"Render unto ghirdrah's, what is ghidrah's"

The King of the Three Monster pitches.

A punchy Roof boulder start (The first ascensionist ripped off the jug and decked after the FA) leads to endless climbing on the excellent orange rock into the technical flake and mono crux.

Pack 30 quickdraws and an optional red cam or green cam. longer draws after the flake crux greatly reduce the drag.

Can also be climbed from the crimps at the lip of the roof at grade 24.

Winter connies = velcro! Up FoS corner for a couple of metres then traverse hard right across hard wall (two bolts) and around arete onto mostly trad protected face. About 6 bolts + single set of cam to #4 and couple of long runners. First ascentists used two ropes to reduce rope drag.

Straight up the middle of the sustained and technical wall. First ascent involved a foot next to the hand heel cam rockover for the crux - how will you do it? A 70m rope just gets down on lower-off. Sun hits the top third about 10am and lower section around midday. No long draws required - it's super direct!

Direct start to Higher than the Sun up the impressive orange wall. Start down on the ledge (as for Highdrogen). Bouldery move over rooflet at start then trend right over sucking void up superb orange rock to flake crux about 18m up. Either lower-off 2nd belay anchors of Higher Than the Sun (25m to the ground), or better - just keep climbing into that route's 2nd pitch for the full 37m pumpy pitch. 18 bolts aprox - bring some long draws and at least one single length sling runner to avoid rope drag. Short draws are fine if you are just doing the shorter pitch.

Start in scoop on the blunt arete. Use the undercling to do some tings.

Start on good holds, through undercling and big move to edges. Powerful.

Link Half Hour Haircut into the reversed traverse. Pumpy start leads to easier finish. Giving this a boulder grade doesn't seem useful, but no harder than V4

Short intense bouldery little number. Bit of a one-move-wonder ...

Just left of Running Gun Blues is this overhung orange wall with prominent flake feature in the middle. The line was bolted some time in the '80/90s with bash-in carrots and hangerless expansion bolts but didn't appear to have been climbed (lots of loose rock). It has now been cleaned, rebolted and brought back to life. Crux can be done two ways - the left version is easier but more spicy.

A good slightly runout adventure up a long wall that starts up Pure Spirit's corner then straight up bolted wall above. The print guidebook says this is a sport route - it is not. Bring a big cam for the start (#5 camalot - and a handful of finger/fist cams for wall section leading up to the very high first bolt). The grade 25 crux is at the 6th bolt - but can be easily avoided at grade 23 by climbing 1m right of the bolt.

Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a mix of gear and bolts. Take a full rack. Can lower off from the top with a 70m rope.

Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors.

Start at the slab directly below the lower hand crack of TWotF at carrot. Take BD cams 0.3 - #3 WITH doubles of #1 and #2 and either a #4 OR #5.

Up slab past carrot and gear to hand crack (shared with TWotF). Up hand crack and break left where crack splits (TWotF continues more directly up and right), and up into dihedral past more gear to a bolt. Then up finger crack to ledge. Left a move, then continue up past 7 more bolts following the line of the bolts to anchors on top ledge of stunning red wall. Can also continue up Mixed Business or The Wake of the Flood (P3) to top out.

This route has recently been re-jigged by the FA. The lower pitch is now the easiest route here, and surprisingly great climbing. The upper pitch has had some bolt positions moved, and a broken pocket repaired, and consists of some wild cranking.

1. 25m (21) Start up the easy slab a few metres left of Life of Riley. Left at ledge, then up via technical and steep face moves to first anchor.

2. 12m (25) Trend right to vibrant orange streak over the void. Very hard moves up pockets in the streak (easier with small fingers) to a fun pocketed finale.

NOTE: THIS ROUTE HAS BEEN CHOPPED BY THE FA AND IS NO LONGER CLIMBABLE. This historical route will remain listed here for the sake of the existing ascents.

Super-sustained climbing, tackling the most intense bits of Being and Nothingness and Buckley's Chance on the best rock.

Start up Life of Riley and continue up Buckley's Chance. Put a long sling on the 10th bolt (where the corner arches back right), step left and put a long sling on the bolt under the rooflet of Being and Nothingness, and blast up the mega headwall with increasing difficulty to a final reachy and very committing finale.

The grand classic of this wall. One of the best routes of this style in the mountains. Rebolted 2004.

This is the splitter crack out the humungous roofs. Very well protected with various sizes of cams. Has a double ring bolt lower off.

Bouldery start off the diving board. Grungy top section.

Start up the bouldery start of The River Styx, traverse about 8m left to finish at a U-bolt and fixed wire just up on the headwall.