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Access: Potential fines. Rappelling might not be an option.

Police officers might ask to stop climbing on the top just before rappelling and don't allow climbers to continue a planned descent. It might be better to avoid climbing the route especially on crowded days. The rules of accessing the area are not clear.

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Created 2 years ago

Access: Please read access information section!

Access to this area is in jeopardy - please read access information about how you can prevent this area being closed. You may be fined by the police or asked to leave if you do not follow this advice.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
1 19 28m
2 18 12m
3 20 10m

description

Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays.

Several climbers has been threatened with fines by police for climbing this route (September 2019). The police are called out because locals think climbers are suicidal people ready to jump. Police deal with over 50 suicides a year along this coastline. Wear climbing helmets and try and look like a climber as much as possible. When belaying at the top be friendly to people walking past. It's best to rap back down the route rather than climb the fence and walk off.

Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp about 40m R of Obscurity (ringbolted corner).

  1. 28m (19) Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay. Originally given 15 on trad!

  2. 12m (18) Leftwards below choss and up right to belay.

  3. 10m (20) Up to roof and a few stiff moves. Double U belay. Small 'stile' to help you over the sharp picket fence.

Route history

1 Jan 2014First ascent: Mikl Law, Vanessa Peterson, Warwick Payten & Jeff Crass

Warnings

27 Jun 2021 Warning Access: Potential fines. Rappelling might not be an option.
13 Aug 2021 Warning Access: Please read access information section!

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.86061, 151.28416

Grade citation

19,18,20 Assigned grade
private
19 [19 - 20] -- grAId
19,18,20

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 72 from 125 ratings.

Difficulty - 20

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 4 ratings.

Suggested Grade

20

Based on 4 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 41
Flash 15
Red point 22
Top rope 2
Tick 63
Attempt 22

Comment keywords

fist lip face chossy mantle slippery reachy rest interesting traverse awkward cruisy hands flake crimpy epic dry steep sloper weird bad short thrutchy easy roof jugs sharp amazing enjoyable stoked beautiful exciting fantastic perfect classic rad pleasant sweet lovely good super cool great awesome fun nice tough tired powerful difficult pumped solid hard desperate crux challenging crank unnerving fall exposed tricky committing scary dangerous runout

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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