Routes in Frog Buttress for selected grade

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

Yet another case of putting a route up just to get your name in the guide! The climb steps left at the ledge after RK corner, and has one hardish move to the chain on the tree. Good for a change of scene.

Not a great addition to the cliff. Up Condor for a while (you have already been warned!). Step R into a horrible, groin-breaking, wide V-groove with not a lot of good protection.

Complete crap. The horrible blank line 3m R of MPFC actually looks a lot better than it is (which is really saying something). Climb directly up the line over numerous loose blocks, piles of dirt and the bones of the last maniac who was desperate enough to lead such utter mank.

Bridge the pillar and crack line up to a good stance. Step R into the crack and up. Brilliant jamming. Go R up the gully to the abseil tree.

Left of Erg is a 5m block. Boulder the L arete of this to the top. Good climbing, but falling would not be pleasant.

Bridge and jam up the initial corner (which is still a bit dirty) until it eases in the middle. Head up the chimney and exit left around the chockstones. The protection is fine if you take a 5 camalot. Rap from anchors above CIT.

A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Take a few 3-4 camalots. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC.

Someone once got their leg stuck in this crack and had to call the SES.

The route immediately R of Theory. Up the finger then hand crack past some wedged flakes then the final offwidth which is sufficiently featured to minimise desperation. Sustained and varied with good climbing despite the section of questionable rock.

A climb best led on twin ropes. Start up SA for 4m placing a high runner in the corner. A tricky move R around the arete brings a stance and some much awaited protection. Blast up the crack and arete. Good fun.

A flared and ugly looking groove directly above the pillar. From there blast up to a ledge, and then, with difficulty, up a crack full of chock stones.

Rubbish! A choss-ridden, mank infested gardener's delight. The corner to the L of FA. Approach by climbing either of the last two routes, or rap in from the LLL belay tree.

Absolute class. Step L off the pillar from the top of LLL pitch 1. Step out onto the blank face with quiet desperation and bowel rupturing exposure! Place a high runner in LLL to prevent a factor 2 flass. Up the line and arete in spectacular positions to an easy top out. The climb is up a semi-detached flake system, so placing cams is not recommended...falling on them could be quite exciting.

Gives you faith in the power of friction! Not a bad variant finish to LLL if you have already done 'Borderline 29' a few times! From the top of the same belay ledge/pillar, step into the smooth groove with a very thin crack in the back. Desperate friction bridging leads to a stance. Up the hand crack above to a spicy little sequence through the head wall above.

This climb is horrible. A very short, vegetation-filled off-width with loose rock and poor pro. If you decide to climb this, hit yourself really hard, and move on!

A bit of a ramble up to a corner which has a few OK moves then make your way to a tree and rap or continue as for A1.

A traverse from 'Electronic Flag' over to 'Fluid Journey'.

Climb Fluid Journey until possible to pull into Epic Journey at about half height. Dont traverse too low or you will end up in the crux of Epic Journey. Combines the easiest sections of both routes.

A good and technical boulder problem to a stance at 3m. It's best to jump off here but if you must, strap on some knee pads and thrash for glory up the wide crack above.

A good start up the 2 cracks R of Harlot up to a ledge. Negotiate the overhanging hand crack to the top chimney. The top is ugly, loose and unavoidable, but thankfully it is also very short.

Great climbing up the pillar bisected by an ever widening crack. The crux is near the top, coming out of a cave into a fist jam section. Easily up and L to Plume Ledge.

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here. Straight up to DRBB.

From the right side of 'Plume Ledge' (facing the cliff) Climb the obvious hand crack infront of a forked tree (belay). Great jamming up to a diagonal traverse right to a jug, then up the thinning crack trending slightly left on face holds to top mantle.

The direct start up the off-balance and diabolically smooth corner goes at 21. To avoid this abuse of your body, you can go up YGH for a move or two, and then step across to the ledge. Up the twin crack system, with the final moves around the huge overhung chock stone being an absolute show stopper! Tree belay above the chock stone or DBB slightly left above YGH. The FFA details are shrouded in mystery, however Rick White, Chris Meadows and Mike Meadows climbed the line with some points of aid in 1969.

The start of this climb features a R-leaning Off-width problem that is both well protected and a great test of your crack-climbing abilities. Step into the corner and chimney of EB. Up with ease and good movement to the top.

Not the best. After about 20m of vine-filled loose dirt and crap, you will find about 15m of actual climbing. You could have more fun by staying at the bottom of the cliff and shoving sticks under your fingernails!

Start off the ledge between Brain Death and Hello Sailor. This is the L of the 3 obvious lines. Start up the long corner with a feisty little move at 4m. Blast for glory all the way to the top, watching for loose rock on the way. Natural anchors and chains at the top, the easiest way to get off is to rap off the chains, 2 ropes are required. The chains are hard to find; look around and they will appear.

The only real way to go. Start up HA to where it is possible to branch off R at about 15m. Climb up the fantastic corner to a bowel-quivering finish. Descend as for HA.

One of the most popular middle grade routes on the cliff, and deservedly so. The splitter crack up the face to the R of Micron. This route offers amazing gear, fantastic movement and some hair-raising moments thrown in for free! Rap down RURP from the DBB on the wall at the back of the ledge, not in behind the pillar as for Micron, which is notorious for stuck ropes.

The small line just R of FAFF. Climb the line on fiddly gear. Don't hang around or your arms will be reduced to a mass of pain and lactic acid.

Up to a hard move getting around the small rooflet. Then jam to a ledge. Finish here on natural anchors. Alternatively, you can climb the very easy corner at the back of this ledge for a further 5m, and you will come across the rap chains attached to the large tree directly above. Rock fall has made this top corner grotty and loose and the tree roots exposed.

Up RF for a move or two (you will soon forget this misery), and then step L into the thin crack on the L face. Finish as for FE (with the grotty corner and dodgy rap tree).

This short, widening little crack can be found above the previous two routes. It is a waste of time and oxygen.

A classic test piece at the grade. Start up face from the ground, or step in from the L at 2m (not as good). It is a little tricky to protect in the first 4m, but look around and salvation will come to hand! From here, climb the superb thin hands-to-fist/off-width crack all the way to the ledge. Rap chains can be found here. Cams to a #4 C4 are essential if you don't like run outs!

Just to the R of the previous route is this crappy little addition to the cliff. A dirty little corner that really has nothing to recommend it.

A complete sandbag at its old grade of 16. Strap on your knee pads and climb the tight orange groove R of DO. The crack flares a lot, so getting gear to stay in is quite a mission. Physically challenging climbing to a stance at 2/3 height. Careful at top, block on right is a little loose.