Routes in Frog Buttress for selected grade

Good face climbing but close to MP. A strenuous start up the thin seam just right of PT leads to a good stance. Up shallow corner and arete (crux) to finish up the widening crack. On the FA Kim did it on the gear in the seam, but it's easy - and much more sane - to lean across R and place a cam in MP before the crux.

Contrived to say the least. Climb the arete to the right of WA past a bolt runner, without stepping into either of the surrounding climbs. There are far better routes to be climbed!

Barely separate climbing R of RK. On clipping the bolt, step down and R, then up on this flakes and holds to the top. Place pro in RK to keep it sane.

Climb straight up the arete immediately R of EM. One bolt shows the way. Protection can be found by stepping L and putting gear in EM (desperate). Delicate and fun climbing.

A good second pitch to the two previous routes. The ridiculously blank looking corner 5m L of KL with 2 pitons is where this mission starts! From there continue desperately until it is possible to wobble R to easier ground. Step L when able to, and finish steeply up the L side of the arete. Double ropes are thoroughly recommended for this lead.

Probably been done back in the dark ages when people actually tried Catcher in the Rye, but a great link up worth recording to promote it. Avoid the impossible bit of Catcher in the Rye by following Inquisition to the ledge then step left into the top corner of Catcher in the Rye. Great rock and climbing the whole way. Rap as for Inquisition (60m rope needed)

Blast up for a few moves then traverse L to a diagonal crack. Strenuous jams that don't quite work as well as you want to provide barrels of fun! The steep hand crack above is superb!

A hernia-inducing beast, up the very thin line. RPs are essential to keep you from cratering. A bouldery start up a thin corner 2m L of LLL. A difficult mantle onto the ledge that Impulse finishes on (belay from here possible). If you are keen, motor up the corner and hand crack to the top of the pillar. Finish up LLL pitch 2!

Super contrived! Climb the wall in between PP and CE, with protection found in both of these climbs. Finish as described.

Extremely serious climbing up a very thin wall. This route goes up the faint line to the L of EP and is essentially a solo problem. Finish by traversing R along a diagonal seam back into EP. Small gear, good head space and a death wish are all essential ingredients for success!

The blunt arete right of EP. Potential for dead branch in rectum if you fall off the crux.

Start: Do first 2m of 'Egotistical Pineapple' then right onto the arete.

Not the best route. The arete 1m R of EP, and just L of PP. Up a hard move to a stance and the first of 2 carrot bolts. Take a deep breath, and flail up the arete on extremely thin holds, and balancy moves. The second bolt is extremely hard to clip, and a fall at this point would result in truckloads of pain! From there continue with difficulty to the top. Not Douglas's finest hour.

Up the crack on the R edge of the COC chimney. Climb this till it ends at a daunting overhang. Whack in a nest of gear and blast for the bolt (carrot) over a hard bulge for a move or two. Continue R and finish easily.

Very difficult for the vertically challenged! Kick off the tree to get up the initial blank corner. A hard mantle onto a choss-filled ledge gains a rest. Up the cracked arete above.

The corner above the ledge. Not really a lot better than the original.

The orange arête between Non Compos Mentis and Self Expression. Start in NCM, nice moves up and diagonally R past a small triangular pedestal to gain a crack on the R wall, (alternatively, thrutch up the ugly offwidth). Hug the arête passing two BR's (crux) to another small pedestal (alien/TCU on R). Continue straight up the arête to finish R of the bulging rock on top. Chain on tree. 2 BR's, wires, SLCD's. A small alien or TCU in a thin slot makes the second half less dangerous/more sane. It fits a quadcam but not as well.

A link up. Start at the corner 1m R of WH. Up the closed corner and into Piranha. Up the R crack of Piranha until it blanks out. From here, step R into Insomnia and up. There are better routes to do.

Brilliant, graceful and absorbing climbing up the twin cracks starting off the small ledge right of FJ. Some of the most elegant face climbing and layaway moves around. Step L into the single crack with joyous jamming and chimney moves above.

What some used to consider a good route has since been rendered obsolete by a tree.

Up the blunt arete to the R of CW. Delicate and strenuous moves past 2 bolts. Veer L here with much difficulty and moaning to put a runner in CW to keep things sane. Continue up past 2 more bolts to the top.

The dark corner capped by a small triangular rooflet really deserves to be more popular. Difficult and bold climbing on good gear leads to a tough move around the roof. A tough finger crack finishes off this classy route.

Up the wall to the R of OG. Not done very often. Up the initial corner, which is quite technical and interesting. Rest at the ledge and then blast up the thin seam past 2 ancient pitons. Not the best route around.

No one knows much about this route... although it may have a name that involves kinky acts by a pool. The arete left of CC is excellent, although quite dangerous if lead straight off the ledge. My assumption is that the original ascent went up Satyricon and stepped R at the jug and bolt! This makes for a brilliant climb. Continue up the arete past 3 more bolts and a small cam or nut placement.

The bolted arete starts up CC for about 5m, and then steps out. It is really good, however the bottom section features brittle rock. Up past the fixed hangers, trending slightly R, to eventually finish at the chains of SA.

You will need to eat your spinach for this one! Two ropes are the key to success on this exposed and wandering route. Layaway the arete R of Warlock and up delicately to a stance. Up to the thin orange corner capped by a roof. Step R just before the roof, up, and gain a wobbling stance on the left wall. Control your leg's desire to impersonate Elvis, and climb L up the exposed and steep face towards the hanging flake. Flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

Update: As of June 2017 the "magic block" is gone! Grade and description are awaiting an update. Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

Classy arete and face climbing L of Saffron Crack. Really good climbing, unfortunately there is a very hard clip at the bolt! 3 bolts lead the way to the top.

The 3rd of an unsurpassable trio. A desperate start on pin scars, locks, friction and prayer sees you established in this daunting corner. Continue up this monster pump fest with every move just as good as the last. Save some energy for the last few moves... it has sent more than one flailing would-be ascentionist plummeting into space. Some of the best gear at Frog keeps this climb sane.

Crap. A desperate little corner up the L side of the pillar that Hell's Angel starts off. Barely adequate pro and terrifying moves earned this one the coveted "never ever do again" award.

A fun little climb whose holds definitely live up to their name. Start at the fixed hanger on the arete, then step out L passing another FH on the way up. Top out easily to the 2-bolt anchor. Rap or solo off the back to get down.

Desperate. Classy and unrelenting movement the whole way protected by shallow and small gear. Deserves to be done more often, but is quite solid and risky at the grade.

Very good climbing, but a little tricky to protect at the crux. Up ER for 3m to the cave. Step R and follow the diagonal to the arete. Up this on fantastic rock to finish up the wide crack as for Catharsis Variant Finish.

More rubbish. Start at the crack about 1m R of RF. Try not to stray onto a more sensible line. At 1/2 height, step R onto the face, forget the run out and climb up on good holds. A jug, gear and sanity can all be found at the stance near the top.

Extremely graceful and elegant climbing straight up the front of the pillar. There is no worthwhile protection to be found, and a fall would almost certainly be fatal. A truly daring and impressive effort.

Start at Ockerphillia and immediately head R in a rising traverse past some bolts and mixed "mind pro". Very classy, and quite sustained.

Rebolted July 2019.

Very good climbing up the wall L of DW. Unfortunately this is also the home of numerous wasp nests, so check up high before you start. Wander up about 6m L of DW to an obvious crack. From here, clip the bolt, step out R on quite small holds and motor up the face. A small rest can be found at the piton. RPs will come in handy. It is possible to escape into DW near the top if you find wasps, or if things just get too insane!

The person who bolted this climb was clearly suffering from this syndrome when considering this pile of mank as a route. Contrived and finger shredding. Not a great route at all, but someone saw a blank wall and had to bolt the crap out of it. 3 bolts to the manky ledge... 2 good moves! Rap as for BB.

Up the Arete between Illusion and Iron Mandible, Do you best to stay out of either route. Quite technical and dynamic.