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Routes in Frog Buttress for selected grade

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
East of the access track
25 Hard Nose

Classic arete climbing. For the original version, go up BL, step out L at the fixed hanger. Blast up the arete past 2 more hangers while your right arm gets the workout of the century! Finish up BL.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

Trad 25m
25 Fat Mattress Direct

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2007

Trad 6m
25 Carrion Comfort

Named "Forever Young" by Rob when he freed the line... although it had already been named Carrion Comfort by the FA party! A visionary effort by Rob Staszewski, and, for a long time, the hardest route put up by a local climber. Desperate locking and laybacks lead the way up the leaning corner. Great gear can be found, stopping to place it is the trick! Rap anchor. A test piece for any aspiring crack master!

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1979

Trad 25m
25 Future Tense

Climb up Blood, Sweat and Tears until the tree. From the tree, step up and R to follow the increasingly difficult line. Excellent climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail!

Originally given 26 due to the direct start, however the description above outlines the variation which all (or at least most?) repeats have since utilised. Consensus has settled at 25 for this somewhat pacified version of the line.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

Trad 40m
25 The Elven King

Although top roped by numerous people in the past, it took Matt's vision to actually prepare and lead this amazing route. Named after the 3 Rings for the Elven Kings in Tolkein's masterpiece "The Lord of the Rings". Up a thin line on natural gear to a very tricky step left. Move up steep, thin and unrelenting face climbing past 3 ring bolts. From there, easily up and R to the top of Theory (need big cam).

FA: Matt Hutton & Kerrod Davidson., 2001

Mixed trad 25m, 3
25 Irky Perky

This climb is super contrived and hard to protect. The desperate line to the R of KSDS. I am taking the word of good climbers on this one, as I was too scared to even top rope it! It simply looks brutal, contrived and unpleasant.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad 30m
West of the access track
25 R Life at the Top

Quite risky and serious. Climb the tree R of NR until you can step onto the blank face above the bulge. Follow a thin pocketed seam until it ends, keep going R until a jug comes to hand. Mantle as for NR.

FA: Chris Shepard. Roger Bourne eliminated the two fixed slings., 1982

Trad 30m
25 R You Climb This, I'll Climb Something Else

Death. Start at the arete just R of TFT. Climb past 2 bolts and a wire at the roof. From here, climb with tendon-rupturing brutality up the arete and wall past the gap where Rob removed the bolts, thereby returning the route to its original state. This was done to honour Rick White's dream of a bolt-free cliff.

FA: Rob Staszewski. Direct start added by Scott Camps., 1984

Trad 40m
25 Paranoia

Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

Trad 25m
25 Green Plastic Comb

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen., 1979

Trad 20m
25 Barbed-wire Canoe

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 27m
25 Stonkers and Steroids

The direct start to IAM. Stick clip the first bolt, and step out to the arete from the start of 'Cock Corner'. Very thin and technical climbing up the arete past 4 bolts, finish up 'I'm a Mop'.

FA: John Pearson, 1988

Mixed trad 30m, 4
25 Witch's Arête

A little top-rope fun on the arête left of Witches Cauldron. Make your way up the arête making use of crimpers, fridge-hugging skills and/or delicate footwork.

Top rope 12m
25 Voices in the Sky

Fantastic climbing and superb positions can be found the whole way up this thin and daunting line. Despite appearances, brilliant protection in the form of small wires and micro cams can be found the whole way.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (yoyo), 1979

Trad 32m
25 R Tantrum

Overgrown and overshadowed by its company it received little attention for years. A recent cleaning and addition of a piton down low (it was originally led with a pre-placed RP) has made it a more attractive proposition. Bridge up tree to get piton and an RP. Thin bouldery moves lead to very enjoyable and friendly climbing above.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Aleen, 1979

Trad 45m
25 R Bongo Gongo Wasto Ergo Sum

Hard! Up the desperately blank corner to a piton that looks like it was placed about the time that Capt. James Cook landed. Continue up with very thin protection to a bolt at 1/2 height. Slightly easier climbing to the top... but not much.

FA: Simon Vallings, Andy Barker & RUssel Chudleigh, 1984

Trad 20m
25 R Separator Direct Start

This improbable arete is apparently still waiting to be lead ground up (pure style). Levitate up the arete using friction, glue, and anything else you can get your hands on to complete the extremely technical moves that are required to finish this route. You can get some form of protection by placing a high runner in Catharsis. Join the original line where the diagonal meets the arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Dave Fearnley, 1982

Trad 10m

Showing all 17 routes.

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