A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Nettle Buttress 11 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Nettle Buttress 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -30.607623, 151.813835
access issues
Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:
Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766
Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727
It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).
Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.
This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz
history
Nettle Buttress is an historic area in that it was one of the first cliffs in Gara Gorqe to be climbed on in modern times. The first recorded route being ‘Serenity' 17 by Trevor Gynther and Al Stephens in April 1975 and to this day that is probably the best route at Nettle Buttress. 0ther routes recorded in 1975 of interest were ‘Dirty Trick' 15 by Brian Birchall and Jill Kelman ‘Trendsetter’ by Birchall, Phil Prior, and Kelman ' Little Hercules' 15 by Kelman Birchall, and Stephens and nearby on Isolated Buttress Bob Killip and Birchall did the first route; 'Adamant' I7. Also of historical interest was 'The Junkman' 12Ml by Stephens and Ian Craven in November of 1975 which was one of the first routes in New England to receive a bolt (for aid in this case). There has been very little interest in any of these areas since 1975, most climbers preferring the more easily accessible areas downstream. The occasional visit during the 14 years since then however, has yielded a few new routes although the only one of any real interest being 'Love is a Dog from Hell’ l9M0 by AI Stephens and Rob Clark in 1980 (and freed a year later by Mark Colyvan and Brian Birchall at 2l) on 'Isolated Buttress’.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Zig Zag
Start: a wall split with large cracks. Up the cracks on the front of the broken block. At about l7m traverse right, then up crack to top. FA: Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1975 | 14 | 23m | |||
2 |
Trendsetter
A trendy line. Start: the crack left of ‘Zig Zag.
FA: Brian Birchall, Phil Prior & Jill Kelman, 1975 | 15 | 49m, 2 | |||
3 |
Wild Fire
Start: At groove that seems to disappear into the mank. Straight up the crack, take the right groove at 21m, up bottle neck to a large ledge. FA: Al Stephens & Jill Kelman, 1975 | 11 | 33m | |||
4 |
Songs from the Woods
Start: on the right-hand side of the scrubby corner left of ‘Wild Fire’.
FA: John Lattanzio & 0. Pritchard, 1979 | 12 | 70m, 3 | |||
5 |
Dirty Trick
Start: in a corner below the huge roof.
FA: Brian Birchall & Jill Kelman (alt leads), 1975 | 16 | 74m, 3 | |||
6 |
Prusook
Start: 1m from ‘Dirty Trick’ at large corner. (The first ascensionists failed to mention whether this 2m left or 2m right).
FA: .M. Hyde & R.A. Hyde, 1986 | 19 | 65m, 3 | |||
7 |
★★ Serenity
Start: A leaning corner crack.
FA: Trevor Gynther & Al Stephens (alt leads), 1975 | 17 | 56m, 2 | |||
8 |
Stampede
Start: A fine crack to the right of ‘Schizophrenic’.
FA: Al Stephens, Phil Prior & Brian Birchall, 1975 | 14 | 48m, 2 | |||
9 |
Schizophrenic
Start: A crack between ‘Stampede’ and ‘The Junk Man’.
FA: Brian Birchall & Al Stephens (alt leads), 1975 | 15 M2 | 51m, 2 | |||
10 |
The Junk Man
Start: A thin flake below a bulge. Up the flake then aid over the bulge and up the crack. Where the crack runs out (bolt in place) move left on tension, then up to to tree. FA: Al Stephens & Ian Craven, 1975 | 12 M1 | 21m | |||
11 |
★ Little Hercules
Start: At the far left end of the buttress, a corner crack aith a flake start.
FA: Jill Kelman, Brian Birchall & Al Stephens, 1975 | 15 | 39m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
11 | Wild Fire | 33m | |||
12 | Songs from the Woods | 70m, 3 | |||
12 M1 | The Junk Man | 21m | |||
14 | Stampede | 48m, 2 | |||
★ | Zig Zag | 23m | |||
15 | ★ | Little Hercules | 39m | ||
Trendsetter | 49m, 2 | ||||
15 M2 | Schizophrenic | 51m, 2 | |||
16 | Dirty Trick | 74m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ | Serenity | 56m, 2 | ||
19 | Prusook | 65m, 3 |