Routes in Nettle Buttress

Start: a wall split with large cracks.

Up the cracks on the front of the broken block. At about l7m traverse right, then up crack to top.

A trendy line.

Start: the crack left of ‘Zig Zag.

1. 15m (crux) Up the impressive crack to a large ledge.

2. 24m Up the crack to a ledge, traverse right then up a tight chimney.

Start: At groove that seems to disappear into the mank.

Straight up the crack, take the right groove at 21m, up bottle neck to a large ledge.

Start: on the right-hand side of the scrubby corner left of ‘Wild Fire’.

1. 25m Up trending right, a left-hand offwidth/fist crack, then right onto face, up to tree on large ledge, then up to tree belay.

2. 35m Left onto block, then right, up a sloping ledge with numerous small trees. Up crack through slab, trending right to tree belay.

3. 10m Up gully system trending right to tree belay.

Start: in a corner below the huge roof.

1. 15m From the corner move left across the sloping ledge and up to tree belay.

2. 39m (crux) Left, up offwidth to top of block. Up crack into recess, then upopen corner to ledge. Up the shallow groove to tree belay.

3. 20m Scramble to a large ledge. Left up the corner crack, up on slab, then move right under overhanging wall, around the corner and up to tree belay.

Start: 1m from ‘Dirty Trick’ at large corner. (The first ascensionists failed to mention whether this 2m left or 2m right).

1. 30m Head into gully, folios crack, then head up left into loose rock area, up onto large rock from where rock belay secures position.

2. 23m (crux) Head up near tree, ascend main wall above tree onto sloping ledge (to the right). Use small protection on ledge until ledge becomes more vertical where main protection is needed. Jamming and use of friends up the corner is good. Scramble to rocks then on top of this for belay (near the long tunnel chimney crack). It’s possible to go on a further 6-7m for tree belay but not much protection here.

3. 12m Up onto smooth face towards obvious overhang. Traverse left to a prominent boulder under overhang, then climb out and belay from a tree.

Start: A leaning corner crack.

1. 30m (crux) Up the shallow crack, over block, then up the off width to a ledge.

2. 26m Straight up the crack to a small roof. Out and around this to belay ledge.

Start: A fine crack to the right of ‘Schizophrenic’.

1. 22m Up thin crack, blocks and ledges to base of a short crack. Up this to ledge.

2. 26m As for second pitch of ‘Serenity’.

Start: A crack between ‘Stampede’ and ‘The Junk Man’.

1. 27m (crux) Up corner to a vertical crack at the base of a large block. Up crack onto block.

2. 24m Two or three nuts for aid over bulge, then free up the flake crack and aid up to roof, then move right on aid (pegs in place). Up the gap in roof to tree belay.

Start: A thin flake below a bulge.

Up the flake then aid over the bulge and up the crack. Where the crack runs out (bolt in place) move left on tension, then up to to tree.

Start: At the far left end of the buttress, a corner crack aith a flake start.

1. 18m (crux) Onto block,then move into the corner, up into crack then chimney and gully to tree.

2. 21m Up chimney, move around a small roof, then up the groove to tree.